Category Red Wines

St. Helena’s Smith-Madrone: 2009 Chardonnay, 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon

Smith-Madrone and St. Helena, Napa

It’s a wonderful surprise to discover a new winery making wines to enjoy. Smith-Madrone rests in the Northern portion of Napa Valley to the west of the St. Helena area. Napa is of course known for big wine, but one of the distinctive aspects of this particular area of Napa is the high proportion of family owned, smaller size wineries. That is 95% of the wineries in St. Helena are family owned.

Started in 1972, Smith-Madrone remains in the same family ownership with which it began. The family focuses on keeping their winery size down to what keeps hands-on vineyard and wine making practices possible. The winery rests on top of Spring Mountain with elevations of 1300 to 1900 feet, and red volcanic soil slopes. The combination gives distinct flavor and delicacy to their grapes–there is a sort of flavor and structural precision that stands here along with noticeable red chalk elements–while their production techniques keep their wines clean and enjoyable.

One of the elements I appreciated about the Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon from this year’s Smith-Madrone release was how they both showcase what California can do well. That is, both of these wines carry a recognizably California style, but each with their own distinct, (and lighter) personality, showing good balance between fruit and other flavor components; between noticeable alcohol and overall structure. These are clean, well made wines that present balanced palates, both with sophisticated nose and a range of subtle flavors in rich texture.

2009 Chardonnay

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The Smith-Madrone Chardonnay undergoes full barrel fermentation followed by 9 months in new French oak. That said, the oak elements are well integrated here. This is a California style Chardonnay that can relax with its own innate characteristics, thereby setting you at ease to enjoy them too.

The nose shows as lightly candied, nutty, and chalky, with good fruit of yellow apple skin and mixed citrus zest, and hints of toast. The palate follows with the addition of light white pepper accents. The overall structure is very pleasing–there is rich texture, with great acidity, and a good medium-long finish.

I would love to let this Chardonnay age to drink again in a few years, but it drinks beautifully now as well. The overall style is richer than I tend to reach for on a Chardonnay, but, that said, I was pulled in by this wine and enjoyed it. It’s a California style Chardonnay with well done, balanced presentation and its own story to tell.

2006 Cabernet Sauvignon

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The Cabernet Sauvignon shows an excellent nose with nice meaty qualities, light pepper, good earth, and red fruit. I like the red chalk effect on the palate that comes in alongside a great umami character (I was caught up thinking of caribou soup with red cherry, pepper, and light tobacco here, I have to admit), light tobacco notes, red fruit, and that nice alcohol pepper and heat. The presentation offers a drying grip, with pleasing texture, red fruit, and lightly watery body.

I very much enjoyed this Cabernet and wanted it alongside meat to help draw out more of the fruit flavors. The tannin here has enough of a drying effect that pairing with meat proteins would give more room to show off the flavors. Again, like the Chardonnay, I’d love to let this Cabernet age, and I enjoyed it now as well.

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Thank you to Smith-Madrone, and Julie Ann Kodmur for sending these samples.

Copyright 2012 all rights reserved. When sharing or forwarding, please attribute to WakawakaWineReviews.com

Wine Miracles in Alaska: Number 3: This one just because it’s nice

Sharing Wine with Family

Sharing wine with people that appreciate it similarly to you is awful nice, isn’t it? To share with my parents a brief window into how I spend my time I brought two (new to me) bottles with me to taste.

Baker Lane 2009 Sonoma Coast Cuvee Syrah

All three of us enjoyed the Baker Lane’s Sonoma Coast Cuvee Syrah. It offers a nose of smoked meat, red cherry and berry, clove, and hints of vanilla, with the palate following. This is an approachable medium bodied syrah that is well-balanced, and juicy in the mouth. It has the structure appropriate to food while not demanding it.

My mom was impressed by its medium-long finish, and my dad liked how clean the flavors were. The Sonoma Coast Syrah is a nice choice for its approachability, hitting the interests of three fairly different palates here.

Interestingly, our views overlapped on the Pinot Noir as well with none of us appreciating it as much. On the 2008 vintage the flavors present as chunky and disjointed with the structure also generally out of balance.

Wine for Smoked Salmon

One of my birthday wines this last year was the 2008 Brewer-Clifton Santa Rita Hills Chardonnay. I love its steely floral citrus combination of flavors. The acidity on this wine is beautiful and perfect for pairing with a richer flavored food. My brother in law home packs salmon from the family’s commercial fishing venture every year and then smokes some of it in a soft-smoke style. The flavors on the fish carry the distinctness of king salmon alongside pleasing buttery smoke notes all with a rich, soft texture. The Brewer-Clifton offers palate cleansing acidity and an utterly clean presentation to complement the fish. Oh! Alaska, how well you treat me on these visits!

It’s nice to see the Brewer-Clifton for sale in Anchorage. I shared the bottle with my mom and sister Paula and they both enjoyed it. Paula’s preference is to drink crisp whites and to steer clear of any buttery/oaky chardonnay’s because of their rounder mouth feel and richer flavors. The Brewer-Clifton showed her a chardonnay that can be done differently.

Angel Joy Tears

Years ago my friend Kate and I accidentally discovered Tokaji Aszu at a restaurant in Montreal named Aszu. We’d ordered a plate of Quebecoise cheeses and asked the Sommelier to take a risk and bring us something wonderful to pair and not tell us till afterwards what it was. He complied beautifully bringing us a glass each of the 2000 5 Puttonyos Oremus Tokaji Aszu. Later when I told our friend Luis about the wine he urgently demanded to know WHERE in Montreal they were pouring that wine because he’d been wanting to taste Tokaji Aszu for a couple of years (it’s harder to find in Brazil, where he’s from, apparently). He and I went back later that same week and worked our way through an utterly extravagant multi-course meal with the Sommelier selecting perfect wine pairings for each course. By the end of the night we were admittedly drunk, and so happy, sipping the Oremus. I announced that it was like drinking Angel Joy Tears, one couldn’t help but feel blessed. Later that month Luis and I plus two friends went to a performance of Shakespeare in the park alongside the pond in Parc Lafontaine near my old Montreal flat. At the end of the show Luis’s friend stood in front of me smiling hugely with a little bag. When I opened it it turned out to be a bottle of Tokaji Aszu they’d actually found at the SAQ (the Quebec Liquor Board Shop) and purchased for me as a gift. I was so happy I stood speechless and smiling with my hand at my heart for a very long time.Though I’d intended to hold that bottle as a special gift from friends, the next morning while eating avocado I realized the Oremus would pair perfectly with avocado. Then perfectly with maple butter toast. Then perfectly with citrus salad… I sipped through the bottle tasting it alongside everything I ate through the remainder of that day, and decided it paired perfectly with anything. The experience was wonderful.

In case it isn’t obvious already, Tokaji Aszu is a sentimental favorite for me. I associate it with absolute joy and gratefulness, with friendship and appreciation. I can’t help but be happy when I drink it (slowly and with great pleasure). Several years ago I introduced my parents to Tokaji Aszu and though my dad doesn’t go for sweet wines generally they both loved it. On my recent visit back home my dad kept commenting, “oh, I wish we could drink Tokaji with you!” On the third day, my mom jumped up saying she’d be right back. After running back from upstairs she showed us this bottle of Oremus 2000 5 puttonyos Tokaji Aszu that she’d pulled from her treasure closet. I’d given it to them as a gift several years ago and she’d saved it.

The 2000 is wonderfully balanced. It’s drinking perfectly right now. The sweet elements are balanced with a rich texture and excellent acidity. The dried apricot and pear fruit flavors dance alongside herbal notes–touches of dried beach grass and sage. The slight tartness couples with mouth watering that keeps the sweetness from ever being cloying. What a treat!

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We’re back in Arizona again now. By this stage of my life I’ve learned to better integrate the qualities of where I’m from with the everyday life of elsewhere. For decades though the contrast I felt between my Alaskan life and my life ‘outside’, as we say in Alaska, was a challenge for me. It felt like I needed different persona almost to operate in Alaska versus anywhere elsewhere. The upside of having worked through such difference is that I believe that I do well with traveling, and I’ve developed a deep openness to seeing what is unique and valued in any particular place.

Still, it’s a funny contrast to go quickly to the quiet of Alaska and now be back to the quiet of my otherwise empty house. Outside pollen puffs from the Alpine Birch in my yard are floating up past the window, getting lit up by sun. The small leaves of the birch are dancing in the wind, their tops flashing as they hit the direct light of sun then dance out of it again.

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Thank you to Baker Lane for the sample bottles. It was a pleasure to share the wine with my parents, and we all enjoyed the approachability of the Syrah.

Thank you to my mom for sharing her treasure. What a treat!

Wine Miracles in Alaska: Number 1: My Parents’ First (and Second) Burgundy

One of the things to know about wine menus in Anchorage, Alaska is that they’ve tended to be dominated by California big fruit reds. It’s a recent phenomenon that the lists have changed to begin including, first French wines, and more recently (mainly in wine shops, however), also Italian. As a result, many Alaskans have a decidedly California palate, my parents included.

My Parents’ First Burgundy

My parents’ first Burgundy

Upon hearing my daughter and I were actually literally full on scheduled and booked for a visit to Alaska (I get the 12-year old up at least twice a year but as for myself visits these days are rare), my mom asked if she and my dad could take us out to dinner. My dad just had a birthday so we’d go out to celebrate.

The wine list at the restaurant was primarily California (my parents’ preference) and French (mine) focused but my parents decided to let me select the wine, then my dad excitedly added–get a Pinot! The thing to know here is my that my parents are generally resistant to French and Italian wine; that my mom likes reds she “can chew on” and has a history of strongly disliking Pinot Noir, while my dad reaches for Pinot Noir always first.

When both my parents announced they were getting seafood for dinner I felt compelled to take a risk and see if they were open to trying a Burgundy. After talking to the Sommelier we settled on the Gagnerot 2001 Gevrey-Chambertin with the hopes it would have enough richness of flavor to hit some points for my mom, with the body that would appeal to my dad, and the everything that would work for me. Alongside my dad’s king salmon dinner, and my mom’s scallops on pasta the thought was the wine would also really do well by the food.

To shorten this blast story down finally, here’s the point–they loved it. This really is a moment of family wine triumph. Really. Dinners in the past that have started with my parents asking me to select the wine have all quickly shifted to them suggesting immediately after that I select a California Cabernet Sauvignon, then telling me too which California Cabernet. Being the not-visiting-much-and-so-when-visiting-diligent-daughter in those moments I’ve always complied.

My Parents’ Second Burgundy

My parents’ second burgundy

The miracle continues, however. The sommelier at the restaurant liked us well enough that when we finished our bottle of burgundy she came over and offered us a taste of the house burgundy too–the Bellene 2009–a wine with less subtlety than the Gagnerot, of course, but an excellent value. The wait staff misunderstood the suggestion and poured us each full glasses on the house, and, here’s the kicker–my parents liked that too (the burgundy itself AND the free glasses, of course), and the next day I went to a wine shop with my mom and helped her find the Bellene 2009 for home.

Here’s to building bridges of affection through wine!

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Thank you to Trisha of The Marx Brothers, Anchorage for her generosity, great service, and fun personality. We had a wonderful dinner. The wines were lovely, and the food was fantastic!

Reflecting on Heroes on this My Dad’s Birthday: Or, The Long Road to How I Discovered Pinot Noir

This morning welcomed a realization on my fascination with superheroes, and presenting admirable figures in the wine world as their own heroic incarnations. All this triggered by my sister’s blog write-up for my dad’s birthday.

image found: http://endangeredspaces.blogspot.com

I was lucky enough to grow up in a rather remarkable family. My mother originates on the Western coast of Alaska where the Aleutian Islands join the mainland via the Alaska Peninsula. Her family reaches back in that area from as far back as we can imagine ancestors. They are Aleut.

my mother’s family in Bristol Bay, Alaska. my grandmother is the young girl front left. my great grandmother is in the middle.

The luck of this family rests largely in their fierce persistence. There is a strength we gained from my mother’s roots that is one of the foundations of my family’s health and successes. On this side of the family, the horrible joke is that we’ve all almost died at least once. The doctor’s just forgot to tell us we were supposed to.

The remainder of this luck arises from the incredible riches of Bristol Bay, where they originate. I was lucky enough to grow up commercial fishing for salmon alongside four, ultimately five, generations of family. My great grandfather retired from the industry at the age of 84 just so that I could begin fishing in his stead at the age of 9. He proudly smiled as he handed the torch to me, and my sisters, telling me I already was his fishing partner since my mother fished with me the summer she was pregnant. The salmon season runs from early June to early August. I was born August 25.

image found: http://www.alaskool.org

My father grew a little further up the coast at the mainland side of Norton Sound, where the Seward Peninsula (the nose of Alaska) nestles onto the body of the state. His family originates from this general coastal area having migrated up and down this mainland section below the Peninsula from their beginnings. They are Inupiat.

my grandmother in Northern Alaska

In college my parents met during my mother’s first year at the University of Alaska Fairbanks. As the story goes he’d seen her on campus and though he never bothered with school dances, he knew she did. So, at a school dance that Fall he went to the college activity center and stayed downstairs playing pool until what he thought was the last dance. Then he ran upstairs and asked her for the final song. It turned out there was one more slow dance left after their spin about the floor and for the end of the event another man stepped in. (My mom was a beautiful sought after but hard to get woman.) Miffed by the bad timing, my dad watched as the other man first danced with my mom then began to walk her home. A block or so into the stroll my father came up from behind and stepped in between. The other man gave up and my parents have been together ever since.

Within the year my parents were married, and within a year following they’d begun their family together with my oldest sister Paula being born. They also began their family business of commercial salmon fishing, with my father first fishing alongside my great grandfather, and then purchasing his own salmon drift fishing boat. He’s now been salmon fishing for just shy of 50 years.

my parents

My childhood is filled with stories of my dad’s heroics. In college to earn extra money my father participated in a research study observing how well men did exercising in cold climates. The study was carefully planned with a small number of men each from different racial backgrounds. As my dad tells it, they were required to ride a stationary bicycle in a cold (approaching freezing) room wearing only their underwear with monitors and probes about their bodies. The study was supposed to go on for as long as the men could sustain all day riding in the cold temperatures, with the expectation it would last about a week. But, the men were also paid for as long as they lasted. Determined to bring home as much as he could for his young family, and also fiercely certain he could do well by his Inupiat people my dad set out to continue bicycling as long as he could. He lasted two weeks longer than any of the other participants. In the end the researcher simply shut the study down and was unable to publish the results. As the story goes, my father’s efforts had skewed the data so severely the results were unusable.

People also regularly responded to my dad as a kind of warm but enigmatic presence. As I’ve told him before, one of my strongest memories of my father reaches back to elementary school. His mother had helped start the Alaska Native Heritage preservation movement in the state. As a result she’d been recognized publicly by President Nixon, and the Governor of Alaska, received various honorariums, and published multiple books. After her death numerous buildings around the state were also named for her. Outside of Fairbanks an elementary school carries her name and my father was asked to speak at the dedication ceremony directly after a well-known state politician that had been close to my grandmother. My parents and I flew to Fairbanks for the occasion.

Driving up to the event that evening I’d asked my dad what he would talk about. He responded that he didn’t know yet, but he felt comfortable deciding when he got on stage. At the time his answer confounded me.

my family about 5 years ago. there is another grand baby now.

The elementary had arranged for school children to usher in guests for the ceremony. When we were greeted at the front door by one of the elementary students my mother whispered to our guide that the man the girl was facing was Emily’s son (Emily being my grandmother and the namesake of the school). We had seen how the girl had been struggling with little boys only moments before as they kept pushing her away, and grabbing the biggest group of people to walk into the school for the dedication ceremony. But, for her patience the little girl had instead won the honor of bringing in not only one of the presenters for the dedication but also the son of the woman the school was named for.

That evening as I sat in the audience I listened first to the politician’s speech. He spoke of how admirable my grandmother’s work had been, and of how inspiring she was as a person. The truth was his own stage presence was flat, even if what he had to say was important. The audience regularly shifted in their seats. When the politician was done my father was introduced. It was the first time I’d seen him address a crowd. He began telling stories of my grandmother first from his childhood–about their life in remote Alaska, of her dedication to survival with her family (in the midst of winter she had to walk herself and her two sons tens of miles across the coastline to get from a cabin in Shaktoolik they’d become stuck in to her family in Unalakleet where they could find help)–and then stories of traveling with her as she worked to speak to the public about Native life, or to connect with elders whose lessons she would help record. The audience was transfixed, and moved. At the end of his talk the sound of clapping filled the gymnasium.

A simpler part of the story is that it is also my father that introduced our family to the world of red wine. Growing up as we did wine, or alcohol of any sort, was not part of the routine. We were even cautious about chocolates filled with liquor when we had them. After I graduated from high school, however, my father announced during one of my visits home that he was drinking red wine–a glass of Pinot Noir a day for his health. With that we discovered the wines of Carneros, and the Willamette Valley, and the wine world has continuously expanded ever since.

On this your birthday, dear Dad, I give thanks for the incredible gifts you and mom have given us. You are my original superhero. Every blessing in my life began with the two of you, and with our family reaching back as far as we can imagine ancestors.

All my love, Dad. Happy Birthday.

***

My sister, Melanie, inspired my post on our dad by wishing him a Happy Birthday first at her blog. She considers there the legacy he has established for his family, and posts too a wonderful picture of he and his oldest grandchild, our sister Paula’s daughter, Melissa, who gets ready to graduate from high school in less than a week. Fishing photos are always cool to see. She also considers the perfect wine to celebrate our father, a real stand out from the Willamette Valley.

Check out her blog post here: http://fishwineski.com/2012/05/01/happy-birthday/

Happy Birthday to Melanie. You are my sister.

The truth is most of my earliest formative wine drinking experiences showed themselves alongside my sister, Melanie, often with her instigating the wine selections.

from left to right–Melanie, Me, Paula

She introduced me to my first Burgundy. (It changed my life–I became a dedicated red wine drinker because of it.)

I don’t believe she introduced me to champagne. But I fell hard into a glass of bubbles and a long standing love affair with sparkling wine because of her (bubbles might honestly be my best romantic relationship (so far)). Together we’ve had more grower’s champagne, and more expensive champagne than with anyone else (and more champagne in one day together than with anyone else too, if I’m honest). She also promises to take me to Champagne for my 40th birthday, and I plan to hold her to it. (She has a few years to get us there.)

from left to right, me and Melanie HONEST TO GOD getting dressed up to walk into the living room and drink champagne–we’re enthusiastic like that (except we likely posed to take this blast picture only because we were already part way down a bottle while getting dressed up)

Today, April 23, is her birthday. Lots of Love to you, Melanie. You are my sister.

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Cheers too to our sister Paula! I’m lucky to have such damn good siblings in both Melanie and Paula, who while a willing wine drinker is a less dedicated one. Can’t hold that against her, she’s still from damn good stock.

Pictures Looking Back: A 7-day Tour of Colli Orientali del Friuli: Final Pictures

Thank you to the Consortium of Wine Makers of Colli Orientali del Friuli, and of Ramandolo

Copyright 2012 all rights reserved. When sharing or forwarding, please attribute to WakawakaWineReviews.com

Red Grape Varieties of Colli Orientali del Friuli: Regional Varietal Characteristics Cards

Grapes of Colli Orientali del Friuli

The earth of appellation of Colli Orientali del Friuli, along the Slovenian border of Italy, hosts a mineral rich marl that is unique not only because of its blue color (all except in one part of the appellation where it is red), but also because of its high calcium content. The soil offers a rich minerality to the wines of the region that often shows as either a faintly salty quality, or a precise and dry slate.

Sitting along the intersection point of the Alps with the Balkans, just a few kilometers above the Adriatic, Colli Orientali del Friuli generally carries a mix of Mediterranean with Alpine climate–a cool, fairly mild and well-regulated temperature range with drying winds.

The combination of the soil and climate of the region intersect to produce unique characteristics for international grapes, and excellent growing conditions for grapes not seen any where else.

Indigenous Varieties

Tasting through Colli Orientali del Friuli hits all my love-for-obscure-grape buttons, as the region particularly celebrates its indigenous varieties. As Paolo Rapuzzi explained, the area once hosted over 150 grape types local to the region but after the phylloxera epidemic international varieties were planted instead replacing the original native plants.

In fact, Italian wine history includes the demand for focus on international varieties only into the 1970s when the Rapuzzi family helped fight the regulations to allow for grape farmers to grow indigenous vines without fine. Today, Colli Orientali has a huge focus on the local plants with a great pride in continuing to cultivate and bottle their wines.

Schioppettino

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We were lucky enough to taste through a wealth of Schioppettino, one of the group’s favorites of the wine types explored during our week-long visit to the region. The grape is still today predominately grown only through Friuli, though some few wine makers have begun to experiment with growing the variety in California in small quantities.

The Colli Orientali Consortium celebrates an association of wine makers in Prepotto–the village where Schioppettino is believed to have originated–dedicated to cultivating the best in quality for the variety. The Association of Prepotto Schioppettino Producers hosted a dinner for us during our trip where we tasted at least 15 different presentations of the varietal, and one Schioppettino-Refosco blend. To read more on the evening and the variety check out Do Bianchi’s post here: http://dobianchi.com/2012/04/10/schioppettino-the-next-big-thing-history-of-its-revival-and-fortune/

At its best, Schioppettino is a beautifully balanced, and elegant wine carrying a mix of fresh red and wild berries, alongside peppery notes, and light herbaceousness. It tends towards pleasing tannins with a smooth texture and bright acidity that cleans the mouth as you drink.

Refosco dal peduncolo rosso

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As Paolo Rapuzzi explained to us, while Schioppettino really is only grown through the Friuli region, Refosco extends slightly into the surrounding areas as well. Part of the large Refosco family, Refosco dal peduncolo originates in Friuli, showcasing its best characteristics thanks to the conditions of the area.

Refosco is a grape of impressive strength with the characteristics for a stunning wine of good acidity and strong tannin both. It has all of the structure for excellent aging, and admittedly its strength can sometimes work against drinking it too young. However, several wine makers throughout Colli Orientali del Friuli showed us wines that took the balance of Refosco’s strength with a younger approachability. The fruit of this variety shows a mix of dark and red berries, alongside primary herbaceous notes.

Pignolo

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Pignolo is a wine uncommon outside the Friuli region (though there is another variety from Lombardy that shares the same name but that most wine experts believe is not related (See 169 Oz Clark’s Encyclopedia of Grapes 2001)). I fell in love with its elegant intensity and nice balance of acidity with tannin. The flavors here are both fresh and rich showing red berries mixed with spice. The spice on these wines is known to develop greater sophistication with age.

Tazzelenghe

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Least common of the indigenous varieties of Colli Orientali del Friuli, we were able to taste only one Tazzelenghe. The grape is so rare it is barely mentioned in even the most comprehensive of wine books. I count myself lucky to have tried an offering, and though uncommonly, there are some varietals of this grape imported to the United States, if you’re interested in trying one.

The primary characteristics of this grape are its herbaceous notes, which soften with age, showing as dominate to its ripe red stone and berry fruit. The wine gains greater balance as it ages, showcasing good structure and distinct tannin characteristics.

International Varieties

As dedicated to Indigenous varieties as the wine makers of Colli Orientali del Friuli are, they also produce several international varieties that develop their own profile unique to the region.

Merlot

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Most common of the red international varieties to the area, Merlot bottles here as its own varietal, or as the anchor point for a number of the area’s red blends.

Cabernet Franc

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Cabernet Franc holds a key role in the red international grapes for the region. It is produced both under its own full moniker, and as a local wine called simply, Cabernet (t is pronounced here). When presented as Cabernet, however, the wine may be either a full Cabernet Franc, or blended with its offspring Cabernet Sauvignon.

The variety carries a complicated history through the region, however. As has occurred with various grape varieties around the world, Cabernet Franc was  widely planted through the region decades ago and then discovered to actually be Carmenere. Some believe that the wines of Friuli named Cabernet Franc are almost entirely Carmenere, showing the more vegetal qualities of that grape than what Cabernet Franc would tend to offer. Because of the history of naming and the establishment of the wine regulations through the area, however, the wine still appears under its original-to-the-region name, Cabernet Franc.

Cabernet Sauvignon

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Cabernet Sauvignon only occasionally appears on its own in Colli Orientali as many wine makers choose to use it in blend with either Merlot, or Cabernet Franc instead of on its own. Though it produces a pleasing, full bodied red in the hills of this appellation, it is not commonly grown in Italy in general.

Pinot Noir

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The least common of the international varieties in Friuli, Pinot Noir is also the hardest to grow due to dampness hugging in amongst the grape clusters. Still, some producers are dedicated to the variety and develop it at low levels out of love for the flavor and style it produces.

Copyright 2012 all rights reserved. When sharing or forwarding, please attribute to WakawakaWineReviews.com

Pictures Looking Back: A 7-day Tour of Colli Orientali del Friuli: Day 4

Day 4

Thank you to i Clivi, Livio Fellugia, Abbazia di Rosazzo, Ronco del Gnemiz

Copyright 2012 all rights reserved. When sharing or forwarding, please attribute to WakawakaWineReviews.com

For the Friends: Wonderful Wines with Specogna and Toblar

We were lucky enough to share dinner with the Specogna family. They were so generous as to pull two different wines right from the barrel for us–a Picolit we closed dinner with (something sweet for last), and a Pinot Grigio Ramato that had been on skins for a month (it is a wine “For Friends”, as Christian told us. How lucky to have such friends! I count myself truly blessed.).

With the meal we tasted through a good portion of the Specogna portfolio, including the father’s 1998 Chardonnay that showed incredible life and richness–flavors of almond, lime zest and light pepper. A real treat.

An interesting surprise was tasting how well the Ramato paired with the family’s Rovata–a bean soup made with fermented turnip that stole my heart. The Ramato had the pleasing tannin effect and overall almost crunchy texture of the long skin contact style with nutty, light date, lime zest and maple notes alongside the salt mineral notes common to the region, all shown through a vibrant strawberry-copper color.

Check out Whitney’s picture of the gorgeous wine–

I really am so grateful.

Specogna

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Specogna wines carry a style much like their spokesman, Cristian–passionate, enlivened and enlivening, fresh, and richly expressive. I was impressed by the work he and his brother Michele are doing, and by their presence as well.

Toblar

Michele Specogna has also ventured into a second wine making project with Paolo Duri. Together they are producing a portfolio of wonderful wines under the label Toblar. We were able to taste their Schioppettino during dinner with the Specogna family, and then to taste three more of their portfolio later during our visit in Colli Orientali del Friuli.

click on comic to enlarge

The Schioppettino was one of the most elegant presentations of the varietal we tasted during the trip. The Refosco carried a great balance of Refosco’s signature strength in a more integrated and drinkable presentation. It was one of the most approachable, and at the same time distinctly Refosco varietals we tasted.

Thank you so much, again, to the Specogna family and Violetta Babina for your generosity, and warmth of spirit.

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Keep an eye out! Specogna and Toblar wines are being imported to the UK, and are soon to be imported into the United States as well. I honestly can’t wait to have more wines from both labels!

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Copyright 2012 all rights reserved. When sharing or forwarding, please attribute to WakawakaWineReviews.com

Lunch and Tasting with Ronchi di Cialla: Review Comics of Ciallabianco, Schioppettino, Refosco, Verduzzo

The History of Ronchi di Cialla

Beginning their winery in 1970, Paolo and Dina Rapuzzi dedicated their work to indigenous vines. Doing so was no easy task, however, as at that time many of the vines had been lost due to the introduction of Bordeaux varieties following the phylloxera epidemic. The Rapuzzis pursued their passion anyway and succeeded in not only establishing an indigenous variety-only winery, but also in saving some of the local grape types for the region.

As their son Ivan explains, Friuli is one of the places in Europe with the greatest biodiversity as it sits where the Alps intersect the Balkans and the Mediterranean via the Adriatic. As a result, the Eastern side of Friuli offers a blend of a Mediterranean and alpine climate. One grape in particular, Schioppettino does very well under such conditions, showing in its character the wild fruit of the mountains with the freshness of the sea. The Rapuzzis played a crucial role in establishing Schioppettino’s current strength in Friuli–the only area of the world where it has a foothold.

When the Rapuzzis established Ronchi di Cialla in 1970 Schioppettino was almost entirely gone from the region. Paolo and Dina responded by hunting through the surrounding hillsides for feral vines of indigenous grapes. They succeeded in locating about 60 such vines of Schioppettino from many different areas. They took cuttings and with those made many more plants.

According to Paolo, scientists have studied the genetic makeup of Schioppettino and found that there are so many clones within their one subzone that it would seem to originate there in Friuli within the Prepotto area.

We were lucky enough to taste a lot of Schioppettino during our visit to Colli Orientali, including those of the producers of the Schioppettino di Prepotto–an association dedicated to establishing and maintaining the quality of Schioppettino within the valley of Prepotto.

During our lunch with the Rapuzzis at Ronchi di Cialla we were also able to taste their famous white blend–Ciallabianco, made of the indigenous grapes Ribolla Gialla, Verduzzo friulano, and Picolit; their Refosco; and finally their dessert wine Verduzzo. What a wonderful treat!

Thank you to the Rapuzzi family for hosting us during a wonderful lunch!

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To read more on Schioppettino and even see a video of how to properly pronounce the grape name, check out @dobianchi‘s post on the variety here: http://dobianchi.com/2012/04/10/schioppettino-the-next-big-thing-history-of-its-revival-and-fortune/

For comparisons to other Schioppettino, see my review of a vertical tasting of the varietal from Ronco del Gnemiz follow this link: http://wakawakawinereviews.com/2012/04/06/ronco-del-gnemiz-schioppettino-vertical-1988-1989-1994-1996-1999-2006-2009-2010/

Photos of our lunch with the Rapuzzis can be seen here: http://wakawakawinereviews.com/2012/04/09/pictures-looking-back-a-7-day-tour-of-colli-orientali-del-friuli-days-1-3/

More on how Paolo and Dina began their winery can be read here: http://wakawakawinereviews.com/2012/04/02/lunch-at-ronchi-di-cialla-meeting-the-man-with-whom-it-began/

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