Sparkling Wines | Hawk Wakawaka Wine Reviews

Bollinger Vin Clairs (and bottle) Tasting

May 16, ’13 8:21 AM

The Bollinger Vin Clairs Experience

click on comics to enlarge: how champagne is made, an overview

Terlato Wines was kind enough to include me in a Bollinger Vin Clairs tasting yesterday. Vin Clairs, for those that are unfamiliar, amounts to the still base wine that then goes through second fermentation in bottle to become the final champagne. Guy de Rivoire, Bollinger’s Commercial Director, facilitated the tasting, coupled with an overview of the House, and the blending process.

Incredibly, Bollinger’s Special Cuvée (their non-vintage champagne) can include up to 60 component parts of Chardonnay, Pinot Meunier, and Pinot Noir vinified separately, within some neutral barrels, and some stainless steel vats. Each component is bottled in large format, kept in cellar as a still wine to ensure adequate flavor resources for future vintages. These reserve wines total about 650,000 magnums, or 1.3 million bottles. Still, Bollinger produces only 0.6-0.7% of total champagne made in the region per year.

The experience included six components from multiple vintages, and (separately) from each of the three grapes, leading into the final still Special Cuvée, which included at least some of the components we tasted. The culmination occurred in comparing the still Special Cuvée to its sparkling counterpart. Finally, the tasting extended into several vintage champagnes, and the non-vintage rosé followed by a 2004 vintage rosé.

Bollinger Making the Assemblage: the Vin Clairs blend

click on comic to enlarge: Blending still wines into Bollinger’s Special Cuvée

Approximately 90% of the vineyard land in the Champagne region is grower owned. According to yesterday’s presentation, there are approximately 5000 growers in Champagne, and 10,000 Champagne brands producing 25 to 30 million cases of champagne per year. Champagne houses generally operate as a negociant, sourcing grapes from some mix of the 5000 growers through the region. Within Champagne, there is also a small portion of wines made on a grower-winemaker model in which the owner of a vineyard vinifies a small production champagne from their own grapes. Among champagne houses in the region, only three remain under independent ownership, Bollinger being one of them.

Bollinger produces their non-vintage “Special Cuvée” from a blend consistently structured by at least 60% Pinot Noir, with some Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier. With an eye on aging, their vintage blends maintain the >60% Pinot model, sticking to Chardonnay for the rest. Another feature unique to the Bollinger House includes their ownership of more than 60% of their vineyards. The entirety of their fruit comes from Marne district. A portion of the still wines are fermented in old oak barrel, bringing an additional textural and flavor component to their wine. The rest are fermented in stainless steel.

The Bottled Wines

Bollinger’s Special Cuvée offers a silk taffeta texture with the swish of a floor length dress. It carries a richly flavored, while fine-boned presentation of dried flowers, light (not sweet) honey and beeswax, walnut and clove touches with a light pleasing zip of acidity.

Tasting through the several component still wines, followed by the final vin clairs, then moving into the sparkling Special Cuvée drove home how impressive the work of the Chef de Caves really is–to imagine tracking the various wines, creating blending trials for so many potential components, then tasting the final still assemblage to anticipate its presentation after second fermentation… fantastic. So much to track, so much work, so much clarity of vision.

We were able to taste both the 2004 and 1992 Grande Année, as well as the Special Cuvée rosé and Grande Anneé 2004 rosé. Though it sounds obvious, I was moved by the 1992–it’s vibrant zest acidity (in magnum) was coupled with rich smokey, walnut-driven aromatics followed by an electric cord of mouth stimulation cloaked in rich flavors. The saline-chalky electrical-current on this wine was lovely.

***

Thank you to Mary Anne Sullivan, and Stephanie Caraway of Terlato.

Thank you to Guy de Rivoire of Bollinger.

Cheers to Jeremy Parzen!

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A Life in Wine: Frederic Panaiotis, Chef de Caves for Ruinart Champagne

Apr 11, ’13 1:54 PM

Talking with Frédéric Panaiotis

“There is a French saying,” Frédéric Panaiotis tells me. “Help yourself and the sky will help you. I like this. This is my motto.”

Frédéric Panaiotis, the Chef de Caves for Ruinart Champagne

I met Frédéric Panaiotis after arriving embarrassingly early to a private Ruinart dinner due to a mix-up with my driver. He and Nicolas Ricroque, the champagne’s brand director, welcomed me warmly and offered bubbles to set me at ease. We began with Ruinart Blanc de Blancs and their dinner’s good view. Later, with food, we’d also step back into older vintages of Dom Ruinart paired with courses made for us by the talented chef Michelle Bernstein.

Ruinart began as the oldest established champagne house in the world, founded in 1729, at a time when bottling the beverage had been illegal. With its forbidden nature, so the story goes, it was desired and enjoyed at the court of Versailles, where the original Ruinart family was friendly. Over drinks one evening with the king, Nicolas Ruinart had an epiphany. His champagne would please. The Ruinart “wine with bubbles” business began September 1, 1729 with the intent of offering unique gifts to Nicolas’s fabric customers–the family owned a cloth company–but within six years of founding the bubbles venture it dominated the family interests and by 1735 they shifted entirely to champagne.

Now, a little less than 300 years later, Ruinart persists, founded on blending strategies with a focus on chardonnay. Today, Frédéric Panaiotis serves as the house’s Chef de Caves, or chief winemaker, in charge of nursing the grapes from vineyard to vin clair (champagne’s first step still blend), to bubbles, all with the intention of maintaining the Ruinart house style.

It is this willingness of the winemaker to give over to something older and longer that gives champagne its persistence and brilliance both. Panaiotis recognizes he is part of this longer tradition. “When you join a champagne house,” he tells me, “it is important to understand my name will not stay.”

Panaiotis emphasizes the importance of this history. “In California, a winemaker can make their mark on a house, and that is understandable. But, in Champagne, it is different.” He continues, “In Champagne, you should never remember who was making the wine 40 years ago. He is just one of the guys making sure the wine style is the same.” The comparison highlights two different models of success–one of persistent innovation, on the one hand, and one of established grace, on the other, both to be valued but for different contexts.

Frederic Panaiotis discussing Ruinart champagne at a special demonstration with Chef Morimoto, Pebble Beach Food & Wine 2013

Panaiotis strikes me as a man full of grace, and gravitas both. As much as he regards himself well integrated into a larger team–both historically and currently–he also acts as the facilitator of that team’s larger goals.

It is in listening to Panaiotis, I am struck by how the two models–California and Champagne–showcase not only different ideas of history, but also differing examples of leadership. He appreciates the value of both approaches, having resided in Mendocino for almost three years between 1989 and 1991, assisting in the production of sparkling wine for a California label.

Now as chief winemaker for Ruinart, Panaiotis emphasizes the strength of the house band. “When it comes to winemaking, a well-honed team is so much more efficient and reliable. There can always be someone that is sick, but not all of us. So, the response, the assessment of the wine has to be done by the team, not one person.”

Successful focus on the group together, however, depends on also recognizing each individual’s talents. Creating that well-honed contingent, Panaiotis explains, comes from smartly utilizing each person’s abilities. “I must understand who on the team is more competent, more sensitive on certain areas than others.” In describing his meaning, Panaiotis uses himself as example. If he is feeling off one day, it’s necessary for him to recognize who around him can be more effective. “Everyone has expertise, skill in something.” He says, “I have to recognize that. Then I can trust you. Then the team responds. Whoever from the team for each part of what we’re doing.” Panaiotis emphasizes the advantage of this approach, “it’s very satisfying and more fun when we all work together.”

Brand manager, Nicolas Ricroque, Chef Michelle Bernstein, and Frédéric Panaiotis doing final preparations for dinner

Getting Panaiotis to discuss his time in California uncovers an aspect of his character I suspect is foundational–curiosity coupled with systematic study. His education focused on the sciences, taking him through a career that has included chemical wine analysis, years of research on cork taint, and several positions making sparkling wine, in both California and Champagne. Talking about his work in Mendocino, Panaiotis tells me about his studies. “I took Spanish while I was working in California. Wine is great. With wine, you learn something everyday.” He references an idea we both agree upon–the more you know, the less you know. “But with me, it is not enough, so I study languages.” Currently Panaiotis is getting started with Mandarin.

It is not just a thirst for more knowledge that drives Panaiotis, it is also an interest in deeper understanding. We touch on the idea of food and wine pairing, a subject common to the world of wine. But with Panaiotis it blooms into a conversation about culture, recognition of values and ideas. Panaiotis’s thinking is multi-layered throughout. To understand food and wine pairing more effectively, he studies other languages.

He explains his reasoning. “Language is a key aspect of learning how people think,” he offers. “I am always interested in food and wine pairings. Language is key to understanding a culture’s ideas.” By recognizing the ideas of another culture, you gain new insight into flavors and food relationships as well. The various forms of study, then, all circle back, even while revealing something new in themselves. It is both that are true.

In discussing Panaiotis’s wealth of experience he reveals again his blend of grace, and gravitas, coupled with what I recognize as genuine humility, a trait he already revealed through his discussion of team work and leadership–a person of genuine humility, I believe, recognizes what they are genuinely good at, while understanding too there is always more to learn.

Through the Ruinart dinner, and the next day’s Morimoto cooking demonstration, Panaiotis showed his talent for pairing food and wine, an ability clear throughout our discussion as well. But he understands the source of his own strengths. “I am not gifted.” He explains. “People think I am gifted in food and wine pairings. No. No. No. I am not gifted.” As he speaks he is utterly sincere and to the point. “I work very hard all the time to keep learning.”

The hard work Panaiotis puts into his job he also does with clear gratefulness and joy. “I don’t make champagne,” he tells me. “I make something to make people happy. Putting a smile on people’s face, that is my job. How many people can say that?”

***

Thank you to Frederic Panaiotis for including me, and taking time to talk with me.

Thank you to Nicolas Ricroque.

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Pebble Beach Food & Wine 2013: Sushi and wine with Master Chef Morimoto, and Chef de Caves Panaiotis of Ruinart Champagne

Apr 9, ’13 1:43 PM

The Iron Chef Morimoto, Ruinart Champagne Cooking Demonstration

This recent weekend, I was lucky enough to attend a cooking demonstration with Master Chef Morimoto including perfect pairings with Ruinart Champagne and the house’s Chef de Caves, Frédéric Panaiotis held at Pebble Beach Food & Wine.

Master Chef Morimoto on stage alone, selecting his perfect tools in preparation for the demonstration

I was grateful to be included, knowing he is held in high regard for his sushi, good nature, and cooking talents. What hadn’t registered, however, was that he is held in high regard partially because he is on television showing these things. He is, in fact, one of the original Iron Chefs, and for many the favorite. The truth is, I haven’t had a television hook-up since 1996 (except for one brief stretch in 2000, when Jr. was only a year old and I watched all 10-years of Beverly Hills, 90210 (the original series), skipping the trashy season 8, in 4 months). Some of the heights of fame, as a result, allude me.

Master Chef Morimoto and Ruinart Chef de Caves Panaiotis prior to the demonstration

What hadn’t alluded me is Morimoto’s positive reputation. The fame part hit when at the start of the demonstration the audience curtain was opened, and a beautiful, very small, older woman ran across the room ahead of everyone to ensure she got her seat with the best view.

Morimoto’s cooking area set up in advance of the demonstration, as seen in the demonstration mirror

The event, as they explained, was a marriage of two cultures–Japanese and French. The demonstration, then, brought together an account of Japanese sushi tradition, with insights into French wine culture, and advice on how to enjoy the two together in a meal.

the team works on final preparations prior to inviting in the audience

Ruinart’s Chef de Caves Frédéric Panaiotis opened the event explaining, he is happy to give us the chance to enjoy champagne sitting down, with a meal so that it may be more closely appreciated. Also, by drinking bubbles in a wine glass, rather than a flute, the aromas are more accessible. In describing his own history with sparkling wine, Panaiotis explained he’s been drinking champagne pretty much all his life. In the region it is common to place a finger dipped in the wine on a baby’s lips after birth, the first offering to a new life. He also joked, “Champagne is what my grandmother used to drink when she was not so happy.” He went on, “but it is also a beverage we know is not just for special moments. It is for anytime. Champagne makes the moment special.”

Ruinart Blanc de Blancs, and sushi pairing

In thinking about food and wine pairing, Morimoto offered insight in relation to how he also flavors the fish itself. When preparing sushi he has four different levels of tamari, four different densities of sauce. Seafood with no fat–octopus, shrimp, as examples–does well with lighter flavored sauce, lighter tamari. Fish with more fat, mackerel in winter, perhaps, take double the flavor needed as mackerel in summer when there is less fat in the meat. The more fat on the fish the more soy and wasabi you use. Similarly, when thinking about the wine, Panaiotis offers, a clear fish pairs with a really clear wine. The flavors accented on the fish, then, or added to a dish, can echo the flavors of the wine.

Chef Morimoto introduces the first course, explaining the differing cuts on a single fish

The Ruinart blanc de blanc is served to us alongside a Japanese white fish that is unique to the region but resembles an American Amber Jack. The Ruinart rosé, on the other hand, comes in a bit more savory, and is thus paired with preparations that have hardier flavors, such as fried dumpling in tomato, salmon, and uni. The team offers too that it would work with lighter meats, such as duck.

the demonstration included large screen close ups for the audience

Both wines, however, are delicate, all about subtle layers of rich flavor. It is here that Panaiotis gets excited about his wines with Japanese food. Morimoto’s preparations resemble a description of the wine–simple, clean food with rich flavors and freshness.

Morimoto and Panaiotis worked together. As Morimoto prepared more intricate cuts, Panaiotis was able to discuss the food and wine. Morimoto also offers insight on the champagne along with Panaiotis.

Chef Morimoto has been studying and developing his cooking techniques for well over 30-years, and offers tips to the audience on how to choose the best fish. First, he explains, his favorite knife is any knife that is sharp. The best cuts of fish have not been sitting directly on the ice–the cold damages the meat over time. When eating sushi, place the wasabi directly onto the fish, not into the soy, and put the fish side of a nigiri role down onto the tongue, with the rice side up. This gives the purest flavor.

a glimpse of the audience

The team explains that this demonstration is a proud moment. Chef Morimoto is honored to be included in a prestigious food & wine event. Wine is an established, and respected culture. Twenty years ago seeing an Asian chef on the itinerary for such a demonstration would have been unheard of or un-thought. Panaiotis, likewise, is pleased to see Ruinart alongside Japanese food, where he thinks it can pair so well.

Morimoto puts final touches on Panaiotis’s sushi

In considering his Iron Chef reputation, Morimoto explains that even there he is not cooking for the judges, or cooking to beat the other competitor, but instead cooking to improve himself. With each ingredient challenge the approach is similar. “I cannot do same, same, same.” He says, “So, I have to create a new thing. Every single time, I’m shaking when I hold the knife, then I have to ask myself, what am I making? Each time, I’m challenged. I’m shaking.”

Chef Morimoto Sings

After the demonstration was complete, the audience was invited to propose questions. An audience member asked if Morimoto would sing. Bashful at first, he offered what he called “a fisherman song from Japan.”

***
Thank you to Chef Morimoto and Chef de Caves Panaiotis.

Thank you to Mark Stone and Nicolas Ricroque.

Thank you to Sarah Logan, and Vanessa Kanegai.

Thank you to Bettye Saxon.

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Photos from Pebble Beach Food & Wine 2013

Apr 8, ’13 6:48 AM

Pebble Beach Food & Wine

One of the great annual food and wine extravaganzas on the West Coast United States occurs each Spring in Pebble Beach. The town becomes host to the best chefs, wines, and sommeliers from all over the world, as well as the folks that want to be there to drink in their offerings.

Here are photos surveying some of the activities I was lucky enough to attend over three of the four days (it begins Thursday but I arrived Friday).

Friday:The Grand Tour: European Continental Cuisine Lunch, featuring Wines of Portugal

Garden lunch reception begins at Pebble Beach

appetizers are served on the lawn, Chef Roland Passot’s Salmon Lollipop, w Quinta da Raza, Raza 2011 Vinho Verde

Inside for a seated lunch: Chef Johan Bjorklund’s Cassolette, w Companhia das Quintas, Quinta da Romeira 2011

Duck Charcuterie & Traditional Garnishes by Chef Michael Ginor, w Esparao Reserva 2008

Patisserie Chef Francois Payard

World Class Sommeliers serving at lunch

Portuguese wines from lunch

Ruinart Private Dinner

Nicolas Ricroque, Chef Michelle Bernstein, and Chef de Caves Frédéric Panaiotis discuss final dinner preparations

welcome with Ruinart Blanc de Blancs

Ragout of spring vegetables, seared foie gras, truffle vegetable nage, served w Dom Ruinart Rosé 1998

beautifully improvised dish of Skatewing w fresh Sea Urchin, Sourdough Bread, paealla, open clams, and fresh peas, served w Dom Ruinart 2002, and 1998

Dom Ruinart Rosé 1990 and 1996

Saturday:
Chef Morimoto Master Cooking Demonstration w Ruinart Champagne

Chef Morimoto and Chef de Caves Panaiotis prepare before the demonstration

the view before hand in the demonstration mirror

Chef Morimoto and Chef de Caves Panaiotis

the event begins. Frédéric Panaiotis introduces Ruinart Champagne

Chef Morimoto gives sushi for Chef de Caves Panaiotis some final touches

the audience excited for pictures after the demonstration

Ridge Monte Bello Panel at Spanish Bay

the view at Spanish Bay

Nine vintage vertical of Monte Bello–1984, 1995, 2006-2012

The Ridge Discussion Panel preparing

2011 and 2012 are still in barrel

Battle of the Coasts: WEST Dinner

beginning with Dom Perignon 2003

Uni by Chef Dominique Crenn, served w Grieve Family Winery 2011 Sauvignon Blanc

Black Cioppino by Chef Thomas McNaughton, served w Clendenen Family Chardonnay “Le Bon Climat” 2008

Red Velvet Cake by Pastry Chef Lincoln Carson, served w Taylor Fladgate Vintage Porto 2003

Sunday:
The Grand Tasting

Pax Mahle pouring Wind Gap Wines

Chris Williams, Brooks Wines

Brooks, Willamette Valley Riesling and Pinot Noir

The Lindt Chef Projector (This image talked about the chocolate while the real her was standing 5-ft away talking about the chocolate. It was a trip.)

Steve Clifton pouring Palmina Wines

***
Thank you to Sarah Logan, and Vanessa Kanegai.

Thank you to Nicolas Ricroque, and Frederic Panaiotis.

Thank you to Mark Stone.

Thank you to Bettye Saxon.

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The Punk Rock, Crossing Country Running, Cool Kids Club of Friuli Lovers: aka. Scarpetta

Mar 20, ’13 6:09 PM

First of all, please forgive. I am currently traveling without my scanner, so after spending the day drawing I could only post my notes from Scarpetta’s current portfolio by taking a photo of it. I’ll reload the scanned-in image after I’ve returned to Sonoma next week. In the meantime, let the photo of the drawing suffice. Thanks! Updated with the scanned image!

***

Celebrating Friuli (w a little help from Barbera): Scarpetta & Frasca

click on image to enlarge; click twice to enlarge more

Bobby Stuckey greets me at the door with a smile and a glass of pink bubbles. I’m happy I took the drive to San Francisco. After a few moments everyone has arrived and we sit. Lunch is going to begin.

Master Sommelier Bobby Stuckey, and Chef Lachlan Mackinnon-Patterson have traveled from Boulder, Colorado, home of their well-known and celebrated Frasca Restaurant, to share their love for Friuli. After establishing their Friuli inspired restaurant, the team expanded to begin Scarpetta Wine starting with Friulano, Friuli’s classic white.

Stuckey introduces the day’s activities. “I feel like I’m in the cool kids club. But it’s surprising too because I feel like I’m still punk rock, and I feel like I’m still a cross country running nerd, but I get to hang with you guys. So, thanks.” The event includes Sommeliers, Wine Buyers, and Wine Writers from around the Bay Area.

The Sparkling Rosé

Bobby Stuckey setting the stage

Stuckey continues, focusing on the wine. He explains that the rosé offered upon entry is made with the Charmat method using a slightly unusual blend for the style of Franconia (aka. Blaufrankisch) and Pinot Nero (aka. Pinot Noir). Though the Charmat method is often maligned for its association with poor quality versions of Prosecco, Stuckey explains the technique is more centrally all about capturing tenderness and aromatics. Combined with care, and old vine material, Stuckey believes it creates a unique sparkling rosé.

The wine is paired with a winter Friulano Salad of apple, radicchio, shaved horseradish, and shaved hard cheese. The salad is all lightness and zest alongside the savory, floral bubbles. A beautiful opening.

Love for Friulano

To put the wine Friulano in its proper context, Stuckey compares it to Chardonnay. Where the French grape offers a neutral palate that allows technique to be shown on top, Friulano doesn’t. Where the French grape has been cleaned up and clonally selected, Friulano hasn’t. Instead, Friulano carries distinctive, even funky aromatics that Stuckey compares to the “wild dog of agriculture.”

For all the funk Stuckey ascribes to his beloved grape, the Scarpetta version is a clean, refreshing offering of its wine–all lifted aromatics, rounded palate, and pleasing viscosity on a stimulating palate. (Truth is though, whatever funk Friulano may have, I’m simply a fan of the grape.)

The wine comes to us alongside Friuli’s Native food, Frico–a fried cheese dish bringing together dried firm cheese with a molten center of Montasio cheese. Last year during COF2012, a group trip to Friuli six of us were lucky enough to take, we ate Frico daily. Don’t hate me Italy, but Mackinnon-Patterson’s version is even better, all smooth, lush, pungent, and easy mixed with smoked ricotta and sprinkled with fresh green onion.

Tasting the Whites

Lachlan Mackinnon-Patterson serving up his risotto

Over time, Scarpetta expanded its white focus stepping into International varieties that have become classics of Friuli in their own right, both giving a unique presentation in that region.

* Pinot Grigio

As Stuckey explains, Pinot Grigio, though often maligned, can give a sense of freshness, with seriousness and concentration. Stuckey tells us, Pinot Grigio properly understood is a vehicle for terroir. “It is that,” he says, “that makes it a noble grape.”

Mackinnon-Patterson comes out from the kitchen to serve his Risotto and builds on Stuckey’s idea by drawing a parallel between cooking food and making wine. For Frasca’s chef, cooking is all about layers of flavor made through treating the flavors with time. In listening to Mackinnon-Patterson explain the courses, while tasting the foods and the wine, what I find in common are delicate flavors with stamina and presence. Each course, like the wines, comes in lifted, dancey, and rich.

* Sauvignon

Stuckey considers the idea of Sauvignon Blanc in Friuli, there referred to as simply Sauvignon. In Stuckey’s view, Sauvignon is the secret weapon of the region. It is the Ponca, their calcium rich soil, combined with the marginal climate of the area that offers a unique opportunity for the grape to give a triology of fruits–orchard, citrus, and stone–layering the mouth in unexpected complexity. Such flavors alongside the great acidity indigenous to Friulian wines and Sauvignon gives something more than a simply refreshing white wine.

Turn to Barbera

Our meal finishes with a surprising turn (if you didn’t already know the Scarpetta portfolio), a red from Piedmont. Stuckey explains why they decided to focus on Barbera, their only wine from outside Friuli. In his view, the grape is the gateway wine to drinking Italian reds. For people used to French reds, Italians come with a lot more traction. For those drinking New World reds, the earthy flavors are often surprising. Barbera, on the other hand, offers a textural and flavoral connection to other Italian reds in a lighter, juicier, food friendly physique. This wine we drink with meat.

While Barbera is most commonly made in the Barbera d’ Alba DOC of Piedmont, there the grapes play second fiddle to their more popular neighbor Nebbiolo. In the Barbera del Monferrato DOC, however, Barbera is the focus with the vines being planted in high density, steep vineyards, and given the chance for old vine age.

Stuckey describes how he thinks of the grape’s characteristics. “This is what I think about Barbera,” he tells us. “It’s tangular. This grape is tangy, and angular. So we give it no new wood. It’s all about letting it be noble–a vehicle for terroir. That’s tangular.”

Stuckey invites us to enjoy the wines and food with one final comment. “Here’s what I want you to know,” he says. “When it comes to Scarpetta and Frasca, I would like to meet you on the corner of drinkable and thinkable.”

***
Thank you to Bobby Stuckey, Lachlan Mackinnon-Patterson for the food, wine, good company, and invitation.

Thank you to David Lynch for hosting the tasting at St. Vincent, San Francisco.

***

For great photos and more from the LA Scarpetta-Frasca tasting check out Whitney’s post over at Brunellos Have More Fun.

For more on the Seattle offering read Jameson’s post at JamesonFink.com.

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Visiting Gembrook Hill, Ian and June Marks

Feb 24, ’13 6:27 PM

Meeting Ian and June Marks

When we arrive at the Gembrook Hill winery down the hill from the Marks’ home, June Marks is picking tall grass to feed to the horse next door. She realizes we’re there and invites us up to sit with her and her husband, Ian, to taste through wines. She’s already done her weights, she explains. She’ll just feed the horse and then go up and get things ready.

Over thirty years ago the Marks moved into what was then uncultivated property. No one had planted vines as far south in the Upper Yarra subregion, and not in their nook of the valley. The wine divisions were based on shires, rather than distinct growing zones.

Having considered property throughout Victoria, the Marks arrived in the Yarra Valley as part of a second wave of winery owners. Some vine experimentation had been done to see what grew best in the region, but the area was still largely undeveloped. After planting, the Marks would become part of the turn in attention to the Yarra region as a good place for making quality wine, and Ian would help redelineate the appellation boundaries based on growing characteristics.

This vintage marks their 30th anniversary.

The Marks’ Story

Ian Marks

In the early 1980s, the Marks had been looking for property to build a home and plants some vines. “Eventually we saw this place and bought it in a quarter of an hour.” Ian tells us. “We didn’t really know anything about the soil, or rainfall, so it was quite a bit of luck. When we bought it, it had three cows and a tree. So, June and I planted everything.”

“On the weekends,” June adds.

Earlier June had pointed out parts of the property and explained together she and Ian had planted, tended, and cropped the vines themselves. She’s comfortable now leaving the work to Timo Mayer and their son Andrew Marks, Gembrook Hills’ winemakers, she explains because “I’ve already done everything.” She laughs.

Ian nods and continues talking about how they got started. “We planted one clone of Sauvignon Blanc originally but it picked at about one-quarter ton to the acre so we had to plant a new clone. Ian pauses, “it makes a beautiful wine.” He continues, “we’ve been lucky. That one clone is about the only big mistake.”

from the top of Gembrook Hill

Gembrook Hill’s Sauvignon Blanc is widely considered the best in Australia. When we taste their 2011 current release I am surprised. It’s style rests outside the variety’s stereotypes. It is a texturally focused, light and lifted wine with real herbal, bay leaf elements, delicate fruit, and a long seashell, sea air finish. The acidity is dancing.

The Australian white wine market generally considers young wines the most desirable. Even among the winemakers and wine geeks I spent time with on this visit, the older vintage whites I’d brought from the States consistently got a surprise remark, though the wines were then enjoyed after. As Mike Bennie explained to me, as far as sales here go, in Australia people most often want to drink their white wines within the year of their vintage date.

But the Marks’ Gembrook Hill wines are known to age well. To showcase the quality of their whites, the couple recently hosted a vertical tasting of their Sauvignon Blanc, written up by Tim White in the Financial Review.

Ian Marks continues his story, revealing more luck in securing the quality of their white wine. “To be honest, this was 30 years ago. I’d never heard of Sauvignon Blanc.” The Marks’ had a friend help them with planting advice to best judge the character of the site. “He surveyed the property and said, this is the perfect site for Sauvignon Blanc, and I said, okay.” Ian pauses. Referring again to their advisor, “he doesn’t even like Sauvignon Blanc.”

Tasting Gembrook Hill Wines

The Marks’ success has extended beyond the white grape. They’re also appreciated for their sparkling Blanc de blancs. They’ve produced still Chardonnay as well, and I quite enjoyed the 2008, but they’re shifting their attention with it to the bubbles.

The Gembrook Pinot Noir also shows off how well the wines age. We did side by side tastings of their current 2010, and the 2002. The ’10 was lifted, again with a textural focus, and plush while lean dark lines. The older vintage was still youthful and vibrant with a perfumed nose and graphite tension. The flavors had deepened into meats and cigar box. Ian explained that 2002 was an intense year with very small cropping. They didn’t produce that much fruit. But the wine is elegant, with supple tannin.

***

Thank you to Timo Mayer, Andrew Marks, Ian and June Marks, and Mike Bennie.

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Happy International Champagne Day!!

Oct 26, ’12 12:06 PM

It is Champagne Day, Everybody!

My favorite thing: champagne.

All over the world today there are events planned of people getting together to drink wines from that special chalky region of France that makes such lovely bubbles.

Ever wonder how they do it? Here’s a comic that goes over the basic steps of Methode Traditionnelle, or Champenoise.

click on comic to enlarge

There are also various requirements regarding time spent on lees to add richness of texture and flavor (residual yeast left after fermentation), and overall aging. But the comic gets at the big steps of the production process.

Following are a few graphic tasting notes of some favored champagnes.

Champagne Reviews

click on comic to enlarge

Plans tonight?

Remarkably, I’ve never drawn reviews for some of my very favorite champagnes. I’ve made a point of drinking grower’s champagnes often (the wine itself is done by the person that also grows the grapes, something not all that common in the region, as most grapes are sold for wine made at a higher production level than grower’s champagne implies). My sister and I started the project years ago, and sharing in it with her has added to the rich sweetness of the experience.

Plans for tonight? If I had my way I’d share each of the Egly-Ouriet champagnes tonight with friends and loved ones.

I hope you enjoy your Champagne day!
Cheers!

***

Want to learn more about champagne–the region and the wine? You couldn’t do better than Peter Liem’s Champagne Guide. The site is well worth visiting, and subscribing to. Check it out here: http://www.champagneguide.net/

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Turning Home 1: Arriving in Naknek, Walking to the Cannery

Jun 29, ’12 8:16 PM

Cannery towns in Alaska include a three-times-a-day ritual during the summer fishing seasons–coffee time for the cannery crew and fisherman, also known as Mug Up. It serves as a time to bump into old time friends (and not-so friends too), and indulge in crap coffee and donuts.

It’s the time of year out here when the sun doesn’t actually go down so landing in Bristol Bay at 7:30 meant it was still plenty light at 9 p.m. to head to the cannery for mug up.

To fly from Anchorage to Bristol Bay I boarded a 20-seater plane that held only 10 of us. With the extra weight people are boxing up to bring to the bush as luggage they had to cut the people riding the plane. We were all weighed, along with our hand carries, and then seated according to achieving the perfect weight balance for take off and landing. People walked on with fresh potted plants, rifles, huge bags of groceries, and me with three bottles of wine–no security to enter. It was like the Alaskan plane equivalent of that bus scene in the early 80s movie Romancing the Stone, minus the porcine squeals.

Arriving at the camp house, where 12 of us are staying together, Melanie had chilled a special bottle of champagne–a Grand Cru Franck Bonville 2004 without any import label as it was brought to Alaska and shared as a gift from the wine maker himself. What a treat!

It was a lovely, delicate citrus blossom, toast, and wild flower honey nose with a palate to follow along with hints of satsuma and chalk.

There’s a great story for how Melanie was given this wine. Check out her blog post to read it here: http://fishwineski.com/2012/06/29/a-homecoming/

Following are pictures from walking to the cannery yesterday for 9 p.m. mug up.

Bristol Bay, Alaska has the largest salmon run in the world, and also hosts the largest lakes in Alaska, as well as one of the most bio-diverse eco-systems in the world, all situated within the ring of fire.

the truck I learned to drive on–a 1976 Ford F250 with no power anything. It still runs.

most of the gang walking to the cannery at 9 p.m.

a view of the cannery entrance–Alaska General Seafoods

sneaking through the back trails of the cannery grounds

a family owned and operated tender delivering fish to the cannery through a fish pumping tube

the Elaine Christine, the boat my dad got a year after I was born and named for me; now 36 years old and owned by someone else

Last night I remembered why my family invites me out here. I’m good at getting everyone to do things like play couch superman–trying to keep the back half of your body balanced on the couch with your front half balanced off the couch. It’s hard.

my three-days-from five year old Nephew, Oliver, and me, Rachel in the background

I got pictures of my sister and our good friend Cathy being superman too but Melanie says she doesn’t want me to post them here. (Shh! Don’t tell but you can see one of the pics here instead: https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=487105181305321&set=a.291096817572826.89395.290999980915843&type=1&theater hee. hee hee. I’m naughty.)

Cheers!

Comments (1)

A French Bubbles Tasting Complete with Dressing Up, Friends and Food

May 22, ’12 3:14 PM

A Private Tasting and Dinner with the Gang: Tasting French Bubbles

Most of the gang — from left: Fasil, Leah, Katy, Caleb, Fred, Hillary, me, Katherine, Steve, in front of Pizzicletta

Katy and Caleb did a great job making the inside of Pizzicletta even more lovely than usual–pic by Katy Connors

Getting Ready for Tasting and Dinner

Leah suggested we could all dress up for the event, an idea I readily go for

French Bubbles to Taste

A friend in our gang from last night is currently studying French wines, so when planning for our (usually about) monthly private tasting came up, and I offered several different possible themes for the occasion, French bubbles was the one jumped on. (Plus, we all just frickin’ like bubbles, cause we’re super smart like that, as my friend Kate would say.)

The idea for the night was to taste sparkling wines from France made in the Methode Traditionelle style all from outside of the Champagne region, and with unusual grape varieties establishing the cuvee’. Caleb offered to host the location with he and Katy selecting the food choices. Fred provided the pairing to go with the dessert Katy made. I selected the wines.

Here’s what we all came up with.

Opening Wine: Meyer-Fonne Brut Extra Cremant d’Alsace

We opened with a Brut-Extra Cremant d’Alsace by Meyer-Fonne. The wine showcases a blend of 60% Auxerrois, 20% Chardonnay, 15% Pinot Blanc, 5% Pinot Noir in a white cuvee’; 12% alcohol.

There is a wonderfully citrus, focused nose on this wine. The weight of Auxerrois shows here as round in the mouth, with an utterly dry presentation balancing the overall structure. The dryness of the wine is again balanced next to good fruit elements–pleasing notes of clementine and lemon zest, light evergreen hints, dried herbal notes, light grass and chalk. This has a medium acidity, and medium finish. The dryness of the wine worked well as an apertif, with just enough texture to push us forward to the second wine, and the food.

I tend to prefer a little more acidity on my methode traditionelle bubbles, but with Auxerrois serving as the primary grape, the acidity levels here were not surprising, and the wine still did well offering a generally clean and balanced presentation. It was a great opening wine, and held up well to the food as we tasted some alongside. Pairs well with herbal dishes.

Wine 2: Jean-Louis Ballarin Brut Cremant de Bordeaux

I felt lucky to locate a Cremant de Bordeaux because there are few imported to the United States. This one by Jean Louis Ballarin focuses on a Brut blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon, in a white cuvee’ with 12% alcohol.

The bouquet and flavors of this wine are wonderfully mild, with a soft foam texture. The beads here are impressively small and persistent. This wine offers a lightly tropical floral and fruit presentation showing a floral front palate, fruity mid-palate, and musky finish. The combination of mango skin, light pineapple, meyer lemon and lime zest, show along side a slightly bitter bite and herbal qualities. The wine carries a pleasing medium-plus acidity matched by medium-plus finish.

While we enjoyed each of the wines, this was one of the groups favorites. It also did well alongside food as some of us saved enough to sip it with our meal.

The Food Interlude: Caleb Makes Eats

Involtini: Thinly Sliced Eggplant wrapped around Ricotta, Served in Tomato Sauce Yum (one of my favorite dishes)

Pork Shoulder Rubbed with Pesto, then rolled and tied like Pancetta and slow baked for 8 hours. Also, pleasantly called, “HOLY DEAR LORD GOD ALMIGHTY THANK YOU GOD.”

Caleb and Katy did a fantastic job providing food for the occasion. Katy put together a wonderful herbal green salad, charcuterie plate, and dessert (which I’ll show with its wine pairing towards the end here), and Caleb took the day to make us both Involtini, and slow baked pork shoulder. This is what I like to call, joy.

The gang enjoying the meal, with wine–pic by Caleb

Wine 3: Purete’ de Silex Brut Cremant de Loire

One of the group’s overall favorites, the Purete’ de Silex brings together a cuvee’ of 50% Chenin-Blanc, 30% Cabernet Franc, and 20% Chardonnay in a white sparkling presentation with 12.5% alcohol. (The website for this wine carries a different grape ratio; what I list here is what is printed on the bottle itself.)

The cabernet franc dominates the nose with wonderfully earthy and herbal elements, while the fruit sweetness of the chardonnay shows stronger in the mouth, and the chenin-blanc carries the body–the three together producing a nicely balanced wine. There is a bouquet of wet earth, dried herbs, apple sauce and green apple skin here, while the mouth carries honey dew, lemon peel, and even hints of seaweed. Medium acidity, with medium long finish. This wine is also a nice value.

Wine 4: Effervescence Brut Nicole Chanrion

The final sparkling wine of the night was, for me, the most surprising-this 100% sparkling Gamay with 11% alcohol.

For starters, Nicole Chanrion produces the Effervescence as a vintage cremant but labels it without vintage information. Looking further into her vinification techniques, the elements that surprised me make more sense. There is a woody, herbal quality to these bubbles that stands out, carrying with it a fuller texture than I expected from a Beaujolais–Chanrion, however, chooses full cluster fermentation here, immediately adding a heartier tone to the cuvee’ than might be expected from a just-berry press of the grape.

The Effervesence presents a mix of dried herbs and dried fruit–apricot, strawberry, raspberry and melon–touches of black pepper, with dusty, and even almost gritty flavors. (One of us actually used the word “newsprint” as the first descriptor that came to mind from the mouth. It’s appropriate and meant as more of a compliment than it sounds–it’s unusual, and a blend of dry, bitter, and dusty alongside the fruit characteristics.) The wine offers drying qualities in the mouth (again, this makes sense with full cluster fermentation), alongside medium acidity and a medium long finish.

Dessert: Katy Bakes and Scoops and Mixes: Praise God

Katy’s Dessert: Fresh just-under-ripe Peaches baked in brown sugar, then drizzled with a homemade raspberry sauce, served with homemade vanilla bean and cracked pepper gelato and fresh raspberries.

The dessert was a perfect close to the meal–simple, great texture (the advantage of using just underripe fruit here is that it absorbs the flavors well, while also staying a little firmer after baking, rather than becoming peach mush), fresh flavors, and lightness on a warm summer evening (we’re already having summer temperatures here in Flagstaff).

Dessert Pairing: Chateau de Montifaud Pineau des Charentes

To close and to pair with dessert, Fred selected what is traditionally treated as a French apertif, but with its dryness does very well alongside fruit-based desserts. Pineau des Charentes is a fortified wine, common to parts of Western France, produced from a combination of fermented grape must and Cognac eau-di-vie.

The offering from Chateau de Montifaud carries 18% alcohol with a mouth watering medium-long finish, offering flavors of concentrated apricot, date, apple juice, dried peach, and dried herbs with mixed cracked pepper. It’s great for sipping along side slightly sweet baked and fresh fruit, or on its own.

Our Charming Co-Hosts

Thanks to Katy and Caleb for co-hosting with me, and providing the great food and space! Pizzicletta on a closed night is my favorite place to be; even if I love the food there when it’s open too.

Thanks to Fred for selecting and bringing the dessert pairing.

Thanks to the gang for being there–such a good time! And thanks to our friend for taking pictures.

Comments (2)

Happy Birthday to Melanie. You are my sister.

Apr 23, ’12 3:03 AM

The truth is most of my earliest formative wine drinking experiences showed themselves alongside my sister, Melanie, often with her instigating the wine selections.

from left to right–Melanie, Me, Paula

She introduced me to my first Burgundy. (It changed my life–I became a dedicated red wine drinker because of it.)

I don’t believe she introduced me to champagne. But I fell hard into a glass of bubbles and a long standing love affair with sparkling wine because of her (bubbles might honestly be my best romantic relationship (so far)). Together we’ve had more grower’s champagne, and more expensive champagne than with anyone else (and more champagne in one day together than with anyone else too, if I’m honest). She also promises to take me to Champagne for my 40th birthday, and I plan to hold her to it. (She has a few years to get us there.)

from left to right, me and Melanie HONEST TO GOD getting dressed up to walk into the living room and drink champagne–we’re enthusiastic like that (except we likely posed to take this blast picture only because we were already part way down a bottle while getting dressed up)

Today, April 23, is her birthday. Lots of Love to you, Melanie. You are my sister.

***

Cheers too to our sister Paula! I’m lucky to have such damn good siblings in both Melanie and Paula, who while a willing wine drinker is a less dedicated one. Can’t hold that against her, she’s still from damn good stock.

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A Life in Wine: Frederic Panaiotis, Chef de Caves for Ruinart Champagne

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Visiting Gembrook Hill, Ian and June Marks

Happy International Champagne Day!!

Turning Home 1: Arriving in Naknek, Walking to the Cannery

A French Bubbles Tasting Complete with Dressing Up, Friends and Food

Happy Birthday to Melanie. You are my sister.

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