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Willamette Wine 8: Visiting Brooks Wines, part 1, the Rieslings

Tasting at Brooks

In any wine trip there are stand outs. Having spent almost a month in Willamette Valley I’ve tasted a wealth of area wines from multiple vintages, through various grape varieties, along clonal and soil differences. There are a number of wines here that I love. Brooks Wines is the stand out.

As members of both the Oregon Riesling Alliance (ORA), and the International Riesling Foundation (IRF), Brooks Wines helps to cultivate the variety in Willamette Valley’s cool climate. With just under 40 members of the ORA, the group works to develop the overall quality of Riesling in Oregon. As Harry Peterson-Nedry put it, “higher water floats all boats. We know that if anyone of us improves, we all benefit.” With that in mind, the ORA meet to hold private blind tastings to critique the quality of the individual wines, media tastings at different points in the year, and work together to build the overall quality, and public awareness of Oregon Riesling.

Janie Brooks Heuck serves as a member of the IRF board, whose goal is to develop long term public education, quality, and information about quality Riesling from around the world. The well-known Summer of Riesling campaign, with its participating wineries, shops, and wine serving venues from bars to restaurants, arises from the work of the IRF, celebrating Riesling through focus on various global regions. The program has done an incredible job at increasing interest and distribution too of Riesling in the United States, and other regions of the world. One of Brooks Heuck’s goals is for the program to grow to include a focus on domestic Rieslings as the quality of domestic Riesling also increases.  Currently Summer of Riesling has celebrated attention on Riesling in general, with a focus on well-known regions such as Germany or Austria during their regional highlights. Domestic production of Riesling is far lower than these other regions, but there are already examples of quality Riesling being made in the United States, Brooks being one of them.

The 2009 Brooks Willamette Valley Riesling is an excellent value. The bottle retails at $18 (or less) and offers a fresh, clean, energizing nose with citrus florals and light prosciutto notes. The palate is genuinely dry, offering distinct stone minerality, with dry toast touches, and a rush of citrus and floral qualities. The movement on this wine is fantastic. I’ve been craving it since our visit.

Brooks Wines was started with a commitment to keeping prices down to allow their wines to be accessible to more people. Janie Brooks Heuck has been able to keep that commitment to affordability by working with wine maker Chris Williams to increase the production levels, while still holding onto a hands on approach to maintain quality.

Riesling came in as one of the early varieties to grow in the Willamette Valley. Initially, the wine style being produced with the grape was what many locally still refer to as ‘soda pop’ with alcohol. Because of the initial difficulty in producing quality wines with the variety many began ripping out their Riesling in favor of other varieties. Jimi Brooks, the founder of Brooks Wines, worked to convince vineyard owners and managers to hold onto the older vine Riesling so that a return to quality dry style wine with older vines could continue in the region.

The 2009 Ara depends upon 50% Brooks estate fruit, and 50% fruit from Yamhill Vineyard, with vines planted in 1984. Yamhill Vineyard is one of the sites Jimi Brooks approached to maintain older plantings.

The 2009 Ara offers a fully dry, slightly rounder presentation, with a still up but softer acidity than the Willamette Valley Riesling. There is a nose of peach blossom here, with a palate of white peach, and peach blossom. The shift from citrus to stone fruit focus changes the experience of this wine so that where the acidity of the Willamette Valley Riesling shows as bright and racing in the mouth, the Ara offers a smoother focus.

As Brooks Heuck explains, in their view the reason for choosing to make single vineyard wines is to bring attention, and regard to the farmer of the site, and the work they are doing, as well as to learn about and celebrate the site itself. With this in mind, Brooks has chosen to create a Bois Joli Vineyard specific Riesling in the medium dry category.

2011 offered extended hang time due to the cool temperatures throughout the vintage. A number of Riesling producers in Willamette Valley have remarked that for that reason they believe it’s a beautiful vintage for an off-dry style. The very light note of residual sugar changes the experience of the intense acidity of such a vintage, creating a more complete presentation of the wine.

The Bois Joli Vineyard 2011 Riesling comes in with 2% residual sugar. This has a peach blossom plus meyer lemon nose that is vibrant and lightly touched with green bean. There are loads of peach and citrus plus light smoke and cut stone minerality on the palate. This has a mouth squeezing (yum) acidity, and a long finish. Ultra juicy.

The Sweet P 2011 Riesling arises entirely from Brooks Estate Vineyard fruit. The choice has been to model biodynamic winemaking practices with the fruit from this location. To celebrate the unique qualities of the location, Brooks has chosen to also sell some estate Riesling fruit to other wine makers in the area. Big Table Farm produces a Brooks Estate Vineyard Riesling, which I was lucky enough to taste recently as well. (Notes on that to follow in a future post.)

The 2011 Sweet P, named for winery owner, Pascal–son of Brooks founder Jimi Brooks, beautifully integrates the 5% residual sugar with the vibrant acidity. This wine undergoes natural ferments, which bring an open complexity to the presentation. There are refreshing vegetal qualities coming through along side pie crust, and late season citrus blossom. This wine offers an impressively vibrant expression–again energizing and clear, without having to demand your attention, all carried with both feet on the ground. I very much enjoy this wine.

Born and raised in Oregon, Chris Williams had worked with Jimi Brooks making wine at Willakenzie, and Momtazi, before then becoming the wine maker for Brooks itself. After Jimi Brooks passing, Janie Brooks Heuck stepped in to keep the winery going for the same of Pascal Brooks, Jimi’s son. As she explains, it became clear that Williams was the right person to make Brooks’ wine. “He wanted to keep it going for the same reasons I did. Now we’ve had one more harvest than Jimi did.”

The Tethys Riesling is a late harvest wine, with the 2011 made in a year where all fruit hung late. Again, this wine carries a rolling acidity that brings the sweetness over and off the palate. There are light vegetal notes here along with peach blossom, white peach, and hints of date. The wine carries cut stone and light petrol minerality, alongside light white herbs.

Brooks Rieslings are some of the finest offered in Willamette Valley.

(The white blend that shows in this photo will be discussed in the “Visiting Brooks Wine, part 2” post to follow.)

After IPNC 2012 some of us were able to attend a media tasting of approximately 15 Riesling producers in the Willamette Valley. Alder Yarrow posted thorough tasting notes on his experience with the media tasting. To read more about recent releases of other Rieslings in Willamette, as well as more information on the variety in the region, find Yarrow’s post here: http://www.vinography.com/archives/2012/08/treasure_in_the_hills_tasting.html

More on other Willamette Rieslings, and on Brooks other wines to follow.

***

Thank you to Janie Brooks Heuck and to Chris Williams for taking time to meet with me. I’ve very much enjoyed having time with both of you.

Copyright 2012 all rights reserved. When sharing or forwarding, please attribute to WakawakaWineReviews.com

Willamette Wine 7: Jim Prosser at J.K. Carriere, the Birth of a Brand New Vineyard

Visiting a Brand New Vineyard, Meeting Jim Prosser

The charm of meeting wine makers at their own locale is that sometimes, after the tasting is done, and the talking has started, what you get is Italian sausage and a Corona. If I’ve learned anything in my life, it’s that the best day of wine tasting really caps well with a cold one.

Enter J.K. Carriere, and owner wine maker Jim Prosser. Prosser has been making wine with sourced grapes since 1999. In 2007, he purchased property on the top of Parrett Mountain in the Chehalem Mountain AVA of Willamette Valley, planting vines there in 2008. 2012 will be the first vintage to harvest fruit.

the symbol of J.K. Carriere, Vespidae, a wasp known for loving grapes, and stinging vineyard and wine workers

purchasing the property that now hosts the J.K. Carriere vineyards arose from the search for a vintage, flatbed converted Ford truck. The man that sold Jim Prosser the truck also delivered him a tip on the property that Prosser would go on to purchase and plant with vines.

“How a person makes wine depends on a question. What do you believe about the world? I want to make wines that will play, that will play with the best in the world.” –Jim Prosser

The 2011 Glass, a Willamette Valley White Pinot Noir comes in at 12% alcohol, with medium acidity, and a medium long finish. The wine offers peach, dried green leaf and light dried rose, with dried sage. The palate follows with hints of white pepper, and a medium+ rose potpourri, wax finish.

“The Willamette Valley is all about small farms and families, very much like how Burgundy is. There are no corporation wineries here because it’s too hard to hang big fruit per acre. It’s hard to pull off rock bottom prices.” –Jim Prosser

The Provocateur Pinot Noir offers a non-vintage blend, this bottling a combination of the 2009 and 2010 vintages. Vintages in Oregon generally vary significantly from year to year. A non-vintage blend, then, can take advantage of the higher spice and fruit profile of a hot year, with the more apparent structure of a cold one, for example.

The fruit in this blend shows on the nose, and less so on the palate. There is a bouquet of fresh strawberry-raspberry, and rose bramble, while the palate holds a drying presentation and finish, showing pepper, stem, more buried fruit, a pepper finish, and a nutty after finish, coming in at 13% alcohol, with medium acidity and tannin, and a medium long finish.

The property Prosser purchased had never been planted with vines, a phenomenon still relatively common in the Willamette Valley. The risk in taking on such a venture is not knowing how the place will do for grapes, or which varieties and clones suit the ground and micro-climate best. The advantage in taking the risk today is that with forty years between now and the start of vines in Willamette, much more is known about which plants do best with which soil types, and exposures. Taking on raw vineyard land, then, today rests in the choice of a common sense guess, common sense gained partially through others’ trial and error.

In buying property, and starting a new Willamette vineyard property, Prosser explains, “We’re all in, going for longevity, but it feels good. You have to decide what you want your life to look like.”

The 2006 Willamette Valley Pinot Noir carries both a nose and palate of concentrated fruits–date, fig, dried cherry, and sage with a pepper finish. The presentation is rich, with a current of still fresh fruit, and good acidity offering movement through the mouth. 2006 is considered one of the prize vintages of the Willamette Valley.

Vespidae represents the core blend of J.K. Carriere, made with the best examples from 6 vineyards. The 2009 shows a deep, rich bramble, dried cherry, with light caramel hints, date, and pepper on both the nose and palate. The alcohol comes in at 13.75%, with medium acidity and tannin, and a medium long finish.

“This year [when we harvest fruit for the first time] is when we start to learn if this is a Fool’s errand or not. It’s exciting, but I wish I could fast forward through it all. The reason to do all of this [with the vineyard] was not to build another bottle of wine, but to take it all the way through from roots to bottle.” –Jim Prosser

The 2009 Pinot Noir sourced from Shea Vineyard has a rich presentation with juicy movement and an opaque base, offering weight on the palate (though not heaviness), and the possibility of opening to new characteristics with age. The nose offers date, and dried rose, with a palate that adds layers of dried sage, dried cherry, and a pepper finish. There is nice acidity here, with medium tannin, and a medium long finish.

“We need to understand where we live, what the property has to offer, before planting too much. So, we’re starting slow, and small before knocking down trees.” –Jim Prosser

The J.K. Carriere site is 40 acres, with 9 planted entirely Pinot Noir relying on Pommard, and Wadenswil clones–the two historical founders of Willamette’s wine industry. Generally, Pommard is known for its structural and fruit offerings, while Wadenswil gives more herbaceous and earthy focused elements. In this way, the two complement each other, together giving a more rounded and layered presentation for a Pinot Noir blend.

“The vines are organic here from their beginning. Farming that way is all about the food web. The more that is available to the vines, well, you’re going to make better wine. This whole project, it’s all about getting grounded. Nothing grounds you more than having kids, and family, or starting a vineyard.” –Jim Prosser

The property also shows ways Prosser likes to enjoy himself. Falling in love with wood fire pizza, he had a wood fire oven installed by the winery. He and his crew also regularly grill on site during the warmer months.

Prosser tells me how he got into wine making. “I worked for the Peace Corp in the post-Soviet Union. When I came back I decided to get the wine monkey off my back, and then go back to school for architecture. I started working for a winery. It was hard work, with shitty pay, and I came home with a smile on my face every day. I’ve been in it ever since.”

What is consistent in Prosser’s wines is a sense of simultaneous weight and movement in the mouth. The wines are not fruit focused, yet offer fruit, along with earthier textures. He explains his view of wine, “The French completely screwed me up. Because of them what I understand is that wine is food, it is made for aging, and because it is meant to go with food, it wants good acidity. It’s all about bringing people together, and breaking bread around the table.”

“The intriguing thing about working with Pinot Noir is that you can be 108 and still learning about this grape. It’s hard to find things you can pour yourself into. For me, the reference is Burgundy. The soil is Oregon. Oregon can stand it’s own on the world stage. It’s cool climate Pinot Noir but it’s still different. What Oregon has to offer is the acid spectrum.” — Jim Prosser

Thank you to Jim Prosser for taking the time to meet with me.

Thank you to Cory, and to Peter.

I look forward to tasting the wines made from the J.K. Carriere’s vineyard birth vintage, and wish you the very best as you discover what the Parrett Mountain property has to offer.

Copyright 2012 all rights reserved. When sharing or forwarding, please attribute to WakawakaWineReviews.com

Feet Made of Leather: The Wakawaka Chronicles, for Denise

Your feet look like they’re made of leather.
Let’s go walk around the farm. –Clare Carver

In Spring of 2001 I ran away from my ex-husband. My daughter was 18 months old, and he believed we were simply taking a trip North to visit family for the summer. I’d convinced him by planning to commercial fish for salmon that year, as I’d grown up doing, which meant I’d be paid, and he, therefore, would have more money. In the end, I never went back, and I haven’t seen him since the moment he dropped his daughter and I off curbside at the airport.

Our marriage began having trouble almost as soon as it started, and when Rachel was born problems escalated. Determined to do what I could to make things work, I tried various tactics for well over a year until first he told me he didn’t want me to leave the house (ever) for my own safety, and then added that he’d be filing all our money in an account with only his name on it. I’d been waiting for a sign of confirmation on whether I should leave or keep trying. The combination of isolation and lack of money seemed an obvious answer by that point. In the end, I spent the last month with him afraid he would kill me. Not by planning, but because the tension coming off his body was so high it seemed he could snap at any moment, and at various points he did snap, just not with me right next to him. Before our getting to me planning to leave in secret, I’d done the responsible thing and talked to him about us splitting up. At first he’d responded in a way far too reasonable. The next day he threatened me.

The departure from that relationship is a moment that has shaped my entire life. I pushed my way into graduate education with funding because I was determined that running from an abusive marriage wouldn’t be the marker that defined my life. Working as hard as I did to succeed in school, while living below the poverty line, and raising a young child, in my mind was no hard work compared to what I’d gotten myself out of with him. Strangely, how hard I’ve worked to transcend the limits of that marriage has simply affirmed what a gift my abusive relationship was. Not that I would ever wish it on anyone. (I pray daily we will all work together, to love openly enough that we may never witness another relationship or person so unhealthy again.) Still, I cannot deny my having been there rests in my past now as a gift.

I have spent the summer talking with people. Listening, mostly. It has been an incredible blessing. Earlier this week I had dinner with a woman I think and feel very highly of, Remy, of Remy Wine. She was asking me to describe to her how I understood my own work–this traveling around writing about wine. I outlined the bullet points of what I believe I do but finally said to her that again and again I find myself in moments of incredible intimacy with others. Moments where people open to share with me sometimes the best of who they are, sometimes their most precious values, sometimes the awkwardness of what they do, sometimes the uncertainty of why I want to talk with them at all. But where ever these pitches of conversation may point, in each case, I experience an openness asking me to listen. So, there I sit, apparently to write about a person’s wine, but what I witness there is a person present in front of me. What I listen for is their story.

My life has taken me through so many moments. It took almost two years after that curbside drop off, but finally I got through my escape from my husband with full custody of our daughter, and nothing else. I’d left our belongings behind. At the close of it I felt certain nothing else would ever be so hard and so I decided to try everything. I’d already trained camels for four years; worked as a 1-900 psychic for a time. So, I decided to go to graduate school. It turned out the daily exertion of thinking so hard towards unclear ends that a PhD in philosophy demands, while raising a daughter on my own, felt, after three years at McGill, far harder on me than my divorce had been.

Why do I write these things?

In listening to people there is regularly a point that appears in which the story depends on describing what, for the person, is a pivotal moment. What’s become clear is that at this point of a person’s story there is usually one of two differing, both incredible threads. On the one hand, there has been story after incredible story of a person there in front of me taking a seemingly insurmountable risk in order to follow their dream, or their heart. I can’t count here how many people in wine have a story like this, but many many of them do. A story of walking away from a well established job in order to choose what the person almost can’t help but do–make wine–even at the risk of no money and total failure. Or, of inexplicable, almost out of no where, a realization that they must make wine, even without a family history of doing so, and often without any real knowledge of how one even makes wine. Or, even the story of someone that fell into a wine making job after college and now has had their entire life passion shaped by it. In each case, there is a kind of unison present between what the person knows they want to do, and what they actually do–live a life of wine.

Then, too, there are stories of people’s fear, fear they will fail, fear they’re doing the wrong thing, fear people won’t like them or their wine. (Let’s be honest, I have heard a few rather boring stories of how people think about wine. But those really are few, and the truth is those lives look rather different from the others–less expressive, less focused, less interested.) All of us have fear. I’ve come to believe it’s important for how it guides us, for how it keeps us alert, but also too for how it drives us to seek connection–to god, to others, to love, to our deeper selves. The stories about people radically changing their lives for wine seem to make contact with the stories about how scared someone is at the place where risk and fear intersect. How the story I’m hearing goes–either into a total leap of faith pursuing what the person wants, on the one hand, or, into vacillation back and forth between desire and uncertainty, not taking the clear leap, on the other–seems to rest in which phenomenon, risk or fear, takes the bigger hold on the person.

For some of us, a moment arises when the need to step forward into what we must do is so great, the risk associated almost holds no relevance. Let me restate. It’s not that the awareness of risk falls away ignored. It’s that inasmuch as the person is still reflecting on the risk there, it simply helps to focus their choice all the more. In this way, the awareness of risk in the face of what we believe we must do makes us more determined to commit it all, believing that is the best way to secure a chance to succeed. Weirdly, in these cases, the person’s ability to pursue success seems to coincide with their ability to risk even more.

But for many of us fear stands as a guidepost against which we cannot choose–fear acts as the thing that tells us when we must not risk failure even in the face of wanting all our dreams. For many of us, fear acts as the thing that makes us stop and not move forward towards what we want. From listening to these stories, what I’ve learned is that those of us that convince ourselves not to follow these heart dreams do it by believing and telling others that our fears are justified, because, the story goes, we’ve suffered through something insurmountable and unique. That unique thing proving we are right to shut down and not choose for the sake of what we want. We’ve suffered before and now believe we will suffer again.

I was raised to understand the best way to communicate lessons and truth was by telling (and, more importantly, living) stories. So, let me again say part of mine.

At the start of Summer 2012, I made a decision. Some of my friends believe I’m crazy. What I knew was that I felt compelled to write about wine, but not just wine, about the people and their stories connected to it. I also knew I wanted to travel, and I wanted to talk to people face to face, to enrich my wine knowledge by being present on the ground (which I always hope to do–I’m someone that needs projects and believes any of us can always be learning, even if we’re already experts in a field), on site with the places themselves that make wine in the United States. And so I set out to have a summer in which that’s precisely what I did. I’ve been lucky. IPNC invited me as a media person this year, which got me to Oregon. Others extended guest housing, and an interest (or willingness) to have appointments with me to talk to them. And I’ve had now almost two months of 10+ hour average days doing precisely what I set out to do–listen to people. Ten weeks on the road, minus 10 days of that visiting family, the whole time spent meeting people, or driving to meet someone. So, I’ve put a lot of work into this choice I’ve made. But I chose it just the same because it’s what I wanted.

The crazy part is that I have no idea what I’ll do really after the summer is up. I’m not being paid for any of this, and currently I have no actual job. I left a career teaching philosophy at the end of the Fall 2011 term. Teaching, and philosophy, both, were things I am good at, but I’d reached the moment when I had to choose to risk what might still be an insurmountable leap. The first step was away from a reliable job. The leap through the air I’m still in the middle of making. I have enough money to get through my summer. But none of this has been funded on a millionaire’s money. I have very little actually. And in a sense all of it has been scary. But more than that, it’s been what I’ve wanted to do. I’m talking about it now because so many people have asked me either what I’m doing, or why, or how I’m funding it. And even more have asked me how I got here from there, that is, wanting some sense of who I am, and why I live the way I do, ten weeks on the road.

Getting out of my marriage in the way that I did affirmed for me the importance of fear–believing he could either kill me or stalk me after–and that it does not actually rule what we may do. Leaving my marriage in the way that I did showed me that in the grip of the most consuming terror we still can choose for the sake of what’s bigger, for the sake of what we care more about. Going to graduate school made me realize the all encompassing, grind your soul out pressure of hard work can be important, can get you closer towards what you want in life because of how it shapes and trains you. And, again, that the fear of working so hard is no reason to avoid what we wish for. In the midst of both I’ve been in circumstances surely too severe to raise a child well on my own, and yet my daughter is a remarkable person. Her heart, it turns out, simply needs mine to be dedicated to hers. And so I am lucky. Having come through these things, I find myself now choosing something rather simple. To listen.

Living these moments with others, and a glass of wine, where all I can do is listen, and often listen as hard as I possibly can, while people tell me about the risks they’ve taken to get to where they are, or their view of the wine region in which they live, or how they came to use whole cluster or not in their Pinot production… living these moments is exactly what I have wished to do. It’s a life I believe brings together so much of who I am and what I’m good at. It’s what I intend to keep doing. Honestly, I am so grateful. I learn so much grace from these moments with other people. And sometime soon too I’ll step into whatever way I’m going to get back to making a living, both for me and for my daughter that I’ve raised on my own since the moment I left the curb at the airport, more than ten years ago now. I don’t know yet where that living will come from, but I can’t wait to find out.

There are so many things to be scared of. Many of them are legitimate fears, fears we can be grateful for because of how they focus us. In the midst of them, I ask, what would we do, each of us, if we could recognize that our dreams, our own determination, and our ability to do hard work are all so much bigger, and so much stronger, than what we’re scared to do.

Amen, with so much thanks.

***

Thank you to William Allen, to Don Beith, and to Dan Fredman.

With love to Meg, Stephanie, Neile and Katherine.

Copyright 2012 all rights reserved. When sharing or forwarding, please attribute to WakawakaWineReviews.com

Working La Uva 3: Leda Garside and ¡Salud!

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The Work of ¡Salud!, Talking with Leda Garside

In 1992, Leda Garside began working with Tuality Healthcare. She’d worked already for years in Community Health as a Nurse with a Masters’ degree, and sought a position with Tuality with the hopes of connecting more closely to the Latino/a population in Western Oregon. She “knew they were there,” as she put it. “But, where?” Oregon’s agricultural industry depends on the work of innumerable farm and vineyard workers, many of whom happen to also be Latino/a, and Hispanic, but, in many ways, outside the fields the people are largely unseen by the general public.

The reality of life for many Hispanic farm and vineyard workers in the United States includes reduced access or lack of access to health care, reduced access to education, and general difficulty connecting to resources that many of the rest of us take for granted. Basic workers’ rights are also irrelevant to any agricultural workers at the level of legislation. While other forms of labor in the United States are legally regulated to demand minimum wage, eligibility of certain benefits, over-time pay, and mandatory work breaks, current laws require only that farm and vineyard workers be paid minimum wage. Breaks, over-time, and other benefits are not mandated. Additionally, for those working in agriculture without federal documentation, the possibility of filing complaint for situations like injury on the job, as an example, is unlikely.

At exactly the same time, agriculture is one of the major industries supporting the United States economy at large, and dominates economic concerns in certain portions of the United States. In this way, those that work the fields, be they Latino/a, Hispanic, or otherwise, are the people that ensure the success of one of the nations foundational economies.

Beginning with her work for Tuality, Garside begin investing in learning more about Occupational Health, and Migrant Health. As she explained, Migrant Health is not a topic generally taught in nursing programs, and yet it carries its very own particular needs for care. Initially, her work was centered completely within Tuality walls. But, by 1992, the beginning of her time with the company, a small program offering support for vineyards workers had already been started. The original program idea was instigated by conversations held between two Tuality Community Hospital doctors, with two Willamette vineyard owners. Together, Laurence Hornick and Jim Ratcliff of Tuality developed the idea with Nancy Ponzi of Ponzi Vineyards, and Steve Voylsteke of Oak Knoll Winery, generating the notion that they’d take program seed money given by Tuality and add to it with a wine auction event aimed at raising funds. The plan was to create a healthcare program specifically for vineyards workers. ¡Salud! was born. Within the first year, other wineries became integral to making the program work, with the auction site being moved to Domaine Drouhin, while both Paul Hart of Rex Hill Wines, along with Dr. Robert Gross of Cooper Mountain Wine became part of developing the program. Within the first year, eighteen area wineries donated to the auction event, and within two years the basic model for ¡Salud! was put into place.

In 1997, !Salud! had grown enough they wanted to hire someone specifically to help direct, and also develop the program. Enter Leda Garside. Leda had already been teaching CPR within the original ¡Salud! program model, and had the advantage of having already begun connecting to local agricultural communities through community based occupational health development. She was working with people that harvested rhubarb for Flavorland Foods. At times, Garside explains, the Flavorland Foods program included giving 150 to 200 physicals to agricultural workers per day. She also was bilingual in Spanish and English. Through connecting to the agricultural workers with Flavorland Foods, Garside began to hear more about their particular stories, and those of their families, learning about the history of agricultural work through the area, and of the particular needs of people working in their unique industry. The direct knowledge gained from the experience Garside brought into her work with ¡Salud!

Beginning in 1997, Garside moved the ¡Salud! program to more involved on site work, a mobile clinic brought straight to the vineyards. In the beginning, she would transport a large BBQ tent, and all the medical equipment with her in the back of her vehicle, rebuilding the space with each visit, just to be close enough to reach out directly to the vineyard workers that needed check-ups and care. Her goal was to make the program accessible, while also showing the people the program was for that the healthcare was trustworthy. Eventually, during an outreach visit at a Portland park event, Garside spotted the Adventist Mobile Clinic, housed complete in a large, renovated RV. The Adventist Mobile Clinic was able to offer on site blood work, private space for more involved visits or consultations, and an indoor space for blood pressure work. Connecting with the directors of Adventist, a collaboration was made, and from their the program has continued to expand.

Garside now coordinates a year round, multi-level program offering extensive health and wellness resources to vineyard workers. The one requirement is that you have been “working with la Uva”, the grapes, be it for a day, a week, or many years. As a result, wine makers, and vineyard managers also receive regular check ups from ¡Salud!, having their cholesterol checked there alongside the vines. One winemaker I interviewed explained that the regular blood work done by ¡Salud! led to the discovery of a health anomaly that otherwise could have killed him unexpectedly. Many others have described to me the difference they’ve seen in the overall health of their vineyard community. One of the starkest of stories being a man that worked with a broken leg. He didn’t have access to healthcare, and though his leg hurt, he had to support his family, and didn’t realize the severity of his condition until one of the ¡Salud! Occupational Health volunteers gave him a physical.

¡Salud! includes now too a mobile dental, and vision clinic; Fall vaccinations against both tetanus and flu (both genuine concerns for people working with the vines because of their specific labor demands with metal plus dirt, and a wealth of other people); onsite occupational health work advising on things as simple as the need for eye protection from sun, to stretches that will help back pain; access to follow up care for more developed medical conditions; as well as connections to both child and adult ongoing education. Each of the offerings arise from the needs of the workers themselves, what is making a difference for them, and for their families.

The success of ¡Salud! has depended too upon Garside’s ability to reach out to and connect with the very people the program is serving. Fulgencio made clear to me that ¡Salud!, and Garside in particular, had helped him through the transitions associated with raising his children alone. Estella too let me know how integral to her, and her siblings health and education the program had been. Estella is the first to go to college in her family, thanks partially to the encouragement of Leda Garside. Fulgencio’s children too have gone on to, and one completed, college. Fulgencio’s children, and Estella, both now living lives of success while giving back to their communities.

Talking with Garside herself, she speaks always of her team. Sarah Jaquez, from Centro Cultural, who helps Latino families connect to children’s healthcare. Melissa, who has a Masters in Public Health, and Armando, a graduate in Community Education, both of whom help coordinate aspects of ¡Salud! Mobile Clinic. Cece, who serves as the director of the Tuality Healthcare Foundation and manages fundraising for the program, her daughter, Kate, now volunteering for ¡Salud!. Christina, a Registered Nurse that works directly with clinic patients to talk through test results and coordinate follow up visits, and Gary, the Adventist employee that tells me how much he enjoys driving the Adventist bus specifically to do blood tests at mobile clinics with ¡Salud!

Interviewing employees, vineyard and winery owners, and patients of ¡Salud! it is clear how important Garside’s work has been to them, and to the community at large. But asking Garside herself about her work she tells me this, “Getting to know this population of vineyard workers… I am privileged to know these people. I have been lucky enough to get to know them, to know their families, to make a more personal connection. This is special.”

***

In 2011 alone, ¡Salud! registered 3648 workers and families with the program, and documented more than 7000 individual medical and dental care encounters. The program reaches, on average, more than 40% of the vineyard worker population in the Willamette Valley.

Since the economic crisis of 2008, ¡Salud! has suffered financial cut backs, and has been having to reduce the services they are able to provide. The ¡Salud! Auction serves as both a large community event that many enjoy, as well as the primary fund raiser for the ¡Salud! Mobile Clinic. This year the Auction will take place November 9 and 10th at Domaine Drouhin Oregon. ¡Salud! also depends upon private donations.

To purchase tickets to the Auction: http://www.saludauction.org/auction/the-oregon-pinot-noir-auction/purchase-tickets/

To donate to ¡Salud!: https://tualityhealth.ejoinme.org/MyPages/SaludDonationPage/tabid/187963/Default.aspx

***
Thank you most especially to Leda Garside for taking the time to talk with me.

Thank you to Christina, Gary, Sarah, Melissa, Armando, Cece, Kate, Estella, and Fulgencio.

Thank you to Sheila Nicholas, to Harry Peterson-Nedry, to Steve Doerner, and Rollin Soles.

Thank you to William Allen.

Thank you to Katherine Yelle.

***

To read more on the history of ¡Salud! read Oregon Wine Press’s article on the organization, written by Karl Klooster: http://oregonwinepress.com/article?articleTitle=salute-to-iexcl-salud!–1317235589–976–features

To read more about ¡Salud! and Adventist’s work together, and the barriers to care faced by vineyard workers, read Katherine Cole’s article in The Oregonian: http://www.oregonlive.com/foodday/index.ssf/2011/08/health_care_comes_to_vineyard.html

To read more on the lived reality of immigrants moving into the Northwest United States, read the following report detailing the results of interviews done with Immigrants, primarily moving into Washington: http://allianceforajustsociety.org/wp-content/uploads/2010/04/2006-0214_In-Our-Own-Words.pdf

***

Working La Uva 1: A Life in Wine, Meeting Fulgencio: http://wakawakawinereviews.com/2012/08/09/working-la-uva-1-a-life-in-wine-meeting-fulgencio/

Working La Uva 2: Majoring in Community Health, Talking to Estella: http://wakawakawinereviews.com/2012/08/10/working-la-uva-2-majoring-in-community-health-talking-to-estella/

Copyright 2012 all rights reserved. When sharing or forwarding, please attribute to WakawakaWineReviews.com

Working La Uva 2: Majoring in Community Health, Talking to Estella

Talking to Estella

In the mid-1980s, Estella’s parents arrived from Mexico to begin life in Western Oregon. Soon after arrival, her father began work year round with a vineyard helping to establish, cultivate, and care for the vines, and in the fall to harvest and deliver the fruit to the winery. Her father has been with the same vineyards and winery for over 25 years. Her mother too practices farming through an area nursery.

Born here in the United States, along with her siblings, Estella has been able to focus on education. Today she is in the process of completing her college degree in community health. The program includes internships, through which Estella currently serves ¡Salud!, a community health and wellness, care and education program designed to support vineyard workers in the Willamette Valley.

I ask Estella what made her choose her degree program. She returns to talk of her parents. “My parents migrated here from Mexico, and all the hard work they did to get here, and to give my siblings and I our life here, was not appreciated by me or my siblings growing up.” As she continues, she explains to me that when they arrived, her parents had to work very hard to find employment, but also, because they did not understand English, it was hard for them to connect to services. After a few years they were given the opportunity to become residents, but still their situation was hard. Estella is the first in her family to go to college.

Several years ago now her father developed diabetes. Her mother has high blood pressure, and high cholesterol. Vineyards workers tend to have very little access to health care. Employers are not required to provide health benefits to farm workers, and many vineyard workers also speak very little English. Estella’s parents would not have known of their health concerns, except for the on site mobile health clinic ¡Salud! that tested them. Diabetes, high blood pressure, and high cholesterol are each manageable conditions that become life threatening when untreated. Estella explains to me that it is because of ¡Salud! her parents knew how to better their health, so they could continue working and care for their family.

Through his on going relationship with one winery, and with the same vineyards, Estella’s father has the position of being a touchstone for the overall health of his company’s vineyard. His consistent relationship with the place means that he has the hands’ on awareness about how each site, and vine are doing, and when it is time to replace or treat particular plants. Further, by knowing the other members of the vineyard crew, and the people that work at the winery, as well as the specifics of the vineyard sites themselves, the work of people like Estella’s father help harvest go both quicker and smoother year to year.

The kind of constancy found in her parents’ work Estella intends to show to her own family. Her further motivation for school, she tells me, is found through her daughter who just turned two at the start of August. Though she could have planned to marry and simply have a family, the inspiration of her parents’ hard work helped Estella see that she wanted to focus on long term education and well being. By gaining a degree, she has the opportunity to focus on giving back to the community, returning to it what she has been able to learn. Estella explains that currently she is in her second internship with ¡Salud!.

Originally, she volunteered for the program out of curiosity to see more of what it was about. Through the program Estella and her siblings had been able to receive health care along with her parents, and the program manager, Leda Garside would regularly encourage Estella to work towards college. “Leda gave me the opportunity, by encouraging me, and letting me know the doors to the [¡Salud!] Center were open.” So, when it came time to select a college internship, Estella requested ¡Salud! Quickly she fell in love with the program. What she appreciates about it is how much it is guided by the needs of the workers themselves, and by what aspects of it really are helping them. “That is why we’re here, to better not only their health, but their family’s too.” This is why she’s dedicated to go to college.

As Estella finishes her degree, she also works about 30 hours a week, while raising her daughter. Her partner, her baby’s father, she tells me, is very supportive, as are her parents, who live in the same city and spend a lot of time with their granddaughter. In considering what she has gained from her parents, and her work in college, Estella tells me this. “I wanted to be able to depend on myself, to know in that way my life was set. Taken care of. Especially since my daughter came into the world. From all of this I know I can pull myself through.”

Estella will graduate with her undergraduate degree in Community Health in Winter 2013. She intends to continue on to do a Masters Degree in Public Health, with the plan of working with migrant farm and vineyard worker populations.

***

Thank you to Estella for taking the time to speak with me. Thank you to her partner, and to her parents.

Thank you to Sheila Nicholas for inviting me to visit the ¡Salud! Mobile Clinic. More on ¡Salud! to follow.

***
Working La Uva 1: Meeting Fulgencio: http://wakawakawinereviews.com/2012/08/09/working-la-uva-1-a-life-in-wine-meeting-fulgencio/

Working La Uva 3: Leda Garside and ¡Salud!: http://wakawakawinereviews.com/2012/08/11/working-la-uva-3-leda-garside-and-salud/

Copyright 2012 all rights reserved. When sharing or forwarding, please attribute to WakawakaWineReviews.com

Working La Uva 1: A Life in Wine, Meeting Fulgencio

Thank you to Eric Asimov for mentioning this write-up in the August 13, 2012 The New York Times Diner’s Journal “What We’re Reading”.

***

Meeting Fulgencio

For over fifteen years Fulgencio has worked vineyards in the Willamette Valley. Prior to starting their life in Oregon, he, and his wife, and their two young children traveled from Mexico to be near their family in the Western part of the state.

I ask Fulgencio to tell me about his family. His daughter has now finished her undergraduate degree, and is studying for her Medical School entrance exams. He is grateful, he says, that she will benefit from the Dream Act, if it passes. It is something he is very happy about, he explains, because the Dream Act would give his daughter an opportunity, and, knowing this, she has purposefully worked very hard to succeed in school. His son too has just finished high school, and is on his way to college this fall.

He tells me about his family coming to the United States. First, getting here was very hard, he explains. “But to arrive,” he says, then pauses, and shows me his forearm, telling me he gets goose bumps still when he thinks about it. The hairs on his arm really are raised and on his face he is smiling. He continues. When they arrived, he and his wife had big dreams but, several years ago now, his wife died. He was left with two children, not knowing even how to cook an egg. His eyes begin to fill with water and for a moment he is quiet. He continues. In such a time, he tells me, you can only have a lot of patience, to focus on your spiritual well being, have a lot of faith, and to know all is God willing. He tells me he is feeling better now, but adjusting to the move, and to his wife dying were a lot of work, and very trying.

We are both quiet for a while. I tell him it sounds like his patience has gotten him and his children a long way. He responds. “I have not reached all my dreams,” he says. “But I am feeling at peace because I have fulfilled my duties as a father and as a good human being. From this point it is up to them, my children, and to whatever it is left for me to do.” For a moment we are both silent. Then I thank him for telling me about his life here, and about his family. He smiles at me and nods. “It relieves me when I am able to express myself,” he answers. “Thank you. It was bottled up inside.”

Fulgencio drives a vineyard tractor and is a vineyard mechanic in the Willamette Valley.

***

Thank you to Fulgencio for taking the time to talk with me.

Thank you to Leda Garside for translating portions of our conversation.

I am deeply grateful.

Thank you to Sheila Nicholas.

I was able to meet Fulgencio via ¡Salud! Services. More on the program to follow.

***

Working La Uva 2: Majoring in Community Health, Talking to Estella http://wakawakawinereviews.com/2012/08/10/working-la-uva-2-majoring-in-community-health-talking-to-estella/

Working La Uva 3: Leda Garside and ¡Salud!: http://wakawakawinereviews.com/2012/08/11/working-la-uva-3-leda-garside-and-salud/

Copyright 2012 all rights reserved. When sharing or forwarding, please attribute to WakawakaWineReviews.com

Willamette Wine 6: Hiking Cristom Vineyards with Steve Doerner

Hiking to the Top of Cristom Vineyards

I was lucky enough to spend the morning visiting Cristom Vineyards, with wine maker Steve Doerner. He hiked me to the top of the Cristom property in the Eola-Amity hills so that from the crest of the hill we could look over both sides of the valley–one direction towards the coast, the other across Willamette facing East with a view of Mt Jefferson and Mt Hood. In doing so we were able to visit four vineyard sites as well–Louise, Marjorie, Eileen, and finally Jessie–all Pinot.

view from the bottom of the Marjorie Vineyard looking out over Willamette Valley, about 550 feet elevation. Marjorie hosts the oldest vines for Cristom, relying on original plants placed there in 1982 on own roots. The lower vineyards–the bottom portion of Louise, and the other non-Pinot based vineyards, are on sedimentary soil. The upper vineyards–Marjorie, Eileen, and Jessie–grow from volcanic soil. Cristom is almost entirely dry farmed, with only a few rows on the property set up for rarely used irrigation–the rows that receive extra water have the shallowest soils.

climb towards the top, hiking alongside the Marjorie Vineyard. Each of the four estate vineyards at Cristom are named for family matriarchs.

heading towards the Eileen Vineyard, the highest point for Cristom. The vineyards are surrounded by forest. Visible here are plantings from the Christmas tree farm the property used to host. A small portion of Cristom land is still leased for Christmas tree sales.

view from the top, Steve Doerner

Steve Doerner has been the wine maker at Cristom since its inception in 1992. Widely respected for his work, and person both, Doerner has helped establish Cristom as one of the best in the region. His willingness to do small lot experiments with other techniques have led him to a more hands off approach in the cellar. Through Doerner’s guidance, Cristom is known for its consistent use of whole cluster fermentation, its good aging potential, and its simultaneously earthy and elegant, great acidity wines. Cristom was also one of the first to introduce Viognier and Syrah to the Willamette Valley.

Walking down the Jessie Vineyard–the steepest at Cristom

forest surrounding the vineyard

Voluntary cherry trees border the Marjorie and Jessie vineyards, the fruit now all too high to reach.

It has been a long standing tradition to grow roses along the rows of a vineyard as the plant is susceptible to many of the same ailments vines are, though to a slightly higher degree. Roses, then, act as the canary in the mine alerting vineyard managers to when the grapes may be at risk of conditions like mildew or freeze. These roses were planted in preparation for a Cristom family wedding held earlier this summer.

Christine and Tom, the Cristom namesakes, and second generation participants in the family business.

Doerner utilizes about 50% whole cluster fermentation, putting the clusters into the fermenter first, with the destemmed fruit on top. Then, he waits for fermentation to begin. The fruit experiences no intentional cold soak at the start, and the fermentation happens entirely through wild microbes. While some doubt the use of wild, non inoculated, yeast, Doerner feels the practice adds complexity to the end result. He also prefers a long, slow fermentation allowing the yeast to break down the clusters at their own pace. Once fermentation is done, the barrels are filled directly from the press with free run and press juice blended immediately. The idea is to go to barrel as quickly as possible to avoid any settling. Years of wine making showed Doerner that he always reblended all the free run and press juice in the end, and so now he saves the step by doing it at the start. Also, by blending free run, and press juice in the beginning, the wine experiences less handling in the long run. Doerner explains that Pinot Noir responds well to low maintenance in the cellar.

We taste through multiple barrels from the 2011 vintage, the latest harvest on record. The first two barrels we taste from volcanic soils–they tend to offer more red fruit in comparison, and a light red dust component. We then move to sedimentary soil barrels where the darker fruits and more perfume begin to show more distinctly. Each barrel is marked with the vineyard and row, the percentage of whole cluster, and data from each time the barrel has been checked.

The Pinot Gris plantings are the lowest elevation on the Cristom property. It was made with completed malolactic, and tank fermentation. The 2010 offers a lightly waxy, light blossom nose with hints of white spice and anise. The palate carries with peach and pink grapefruit touches, powder fruit patina, and white pepper. 13.5% alcohol, with medium+ acidity, and a medium-long finish.

The Germaine vineyard hosts Chardonnay Dijon clones, producing 3 barrels with 33% new oak. The wine has a light lime powder, zest and blossom pucker, with a waxy finish, and white pepper after finish. The alcohol is 13.5% with medium acidity and medium finish.

Cristom sources fruit put into two Pinot Noir blends–the Sommers Reserve, and the Mt Jefferson Cuvée. The label made the decision not to use vineyard designates on wines made with fruit not supervised directly at Cristom. Still, the fruit is selected for its quality.

The 2008 Sommers Reserve has a focused movement of red and black fruit, spice and pepper with a smooth nose, and juicy palate. There is a medium long pepper pinch finish here. Cristom wines age beautifully, and with more time I expect the spice here to integrate into other secondary characteristics. Still, I consistently enjoy Cristom Pinot Noir.

Mt Jefferson Cuvée is named in honor of the Cristom vineyards orientation towards Mt Jefferson–part of the view from the top. The 2009 offers a juicy and lighter presentation of black fruit and spice, light stem and earth, with a drying finish and juicy after finish. This wine spends 1 year in barrel. It is the only cuvée made with a pre-determined barrel age regimen. The others are bottled based on how they are showing ranging from 18 to 24 months generally.

Eileen is the youngest, and highest elevation of the Cristom vineyards, named for Eileen Gerrie. Paul and Eileen Gerrie purchased the estate and founded Cristom.

Cristom Pinots offer good complexity from their beginning, deepening into a richer, smoother, often velvety while clean presentation with time.

The 2009 Eileen is both smooth and juicy in the mouth with a spiced nose of smooth dark and underlying red fruit. The palate offers dried oregano and thyme with the fruit, as well as earthy and light stem notes. There is a drying tannin finish that then stretches long into pepper. The wine carries very light red dust notes.

Steepest of the vineyards, Jessie offers incredibly shallow volcanic soils at the top, with deeper soils down the sides due to erosion. The vines on this vineyard must be maintained and harvested by hand as it is too steep for tractor.

The 2009 Jessie carries a vegetal, lightly stemmy nose with bramble, light cocoa, red fruit, an overall drying balance with juicy finish.

Louise is the lowest elevation of the Pinot Noir vineyards at Cristom, sitting just above the winery building in very rocky ground. As a result of its elevation, the lower portions of the Louise vineyard are picked first of all the property. The upper portions are shaded and in shallower soils, leading to them being the last vines harvested in all of Cristom property. The Louise vineyard, then, carries a book end effect of early and late characteristics in the wine.

The 2009 Louise has the widest, though still delicate push through the mouth. There is a strong line of acidic movement here with fruit characteristics spreading across the palate from that structural backbone. The wine is more black fruit and light bramble with a red fruit and long pepper finish. There are lightly metallic qualities here as well.

Marjorie carries the lowest production levels of the Cristom vineyards. The vines sit on their own root stalk, and have developed phylloxera. Cristom has chosen to allow plants their natural life span through the ailment, replacing individual vines only when necessary. As a result, there is a concentration in the fruit coming out of the older vines of this vineyard. Marjorie is also a close second to Jessie’s steepness.

The 2009 Marjorie gives a kind of percolation of flavors rising from a dark base of earthiness, the fruit, and perfumed notes lifting as the wine moves over the palate. There is a rose bush nose here showing both the bramble and the flower, with touches of green herb and red fruit. The palate offers a drying berry presentation with dust notes, and a velvety texture.

***

Thank you so much to Steve Doerner for taking time to bring me up the vineyard property. The view over both sides of the Valley is beautiful, even on a hazy day.

Thank you to Christine and Tom.

Copyright 2012 all rights reserved. When sharing or forwarding, please attribute to WakawakaWineReviews.com

Willamette Wine 5: The Long-Dudley Wakawaka BBQ

Seth Long and Destiny Dudley Throw an Alaska Salmon, Moose Meat, Oregon Wine Wakawaka BBQ

Thank you to Seth Long and Destiny Dudley for inviting together in one place the five things everyone needs–a wealth of good wines, Salmon, Moose Meat, Oregon Hazelnuts, and the good people of Willamette Valley. We had a wonderful time, and tasted, as I said, a wealth of good wines. Thank you!

wide angle lens photos taken by Destiny Dudley-thank you for sharing them!

Thank you to Destiny Dudley, and Seth Long for being such lovely and generous hosts!

Thank you to my family for sending me down with fresh caught Bristol Bay Salmon, and Moose Meat.

Thank you to Anneka Miller, Jason Lett, Andrew Rich, Jim Maresh, Joseph Zumpeno, Amanda Evey, Timothy Wilson, Drew Voit, Mike Primo. I apologize if I’ve forgotten anyone.

Thank you, finally, to our philosophical belly buttons. And to the hazelnuts.

Copyright 2012 all rights reserved. When sharing or forwarding, please attribute to WakawakaWineReviews.com

Willamette Wine 4: Omero Cellars, and Sarah Cabot

Visiting Omero Cellars and Sarah Cabot

the tasting room in Carlton

inside the tasting room

getting ready to walk through the vineyards on Ribbon Ridge, our greeter

The Omero Cellars property rests in the smallest AVA in Willamette Valley at only 1300 acres, Ribbon Ridge. Omero’s vines are predominately Pinot Noir planted in 2009, with 26 total acres, 22 of which are Pinot Noir, 4 acres Pinot Gris. 2011 offered the first vintage of fruit off the property.

After completing studies at the Northwest Wine Academy with South Seattle Community College (as well as a degree in Jazz Composition from Berklee College of Music in Boston), Sarah Cabot sought harvest internships in Willamette Valley. The difficulty was found in her already having a secure position with the restaurant Wild Ginger in Seattle. Finally, she got the guts up to quit her job. The same day she gave notice she arrived home to an email about a harvest internship at Belle Pente, and the possibility of work as their Assistant Wine Maker, if she’d relocate, and proved the right fit. She hit the road.

“There has been a lot of serendipity for me in all of this.” –Sarah Cabot

“I love working with Pinot Noir. I love making whites. Those two are favorites. … There is no end to what we can learn. Each vintage is so different. I’m really playing mad scientist right now. Quality and knowledge in wine making come from trial and error. So, I always experiment, and put a lot of thought into my experiments before starting them, and talk with peers about them too. And then there are also the tools from school to work with. ” –Sarah Cabot

rains fell at bud break this year, causing some of the blooms to stay shut, thereby not turning into fruit. The phenomenon is known as “shatter”, leading to clusters with fewer grapes. Without shatter a Pinot cluster would form a small fairly cohesive fist shape. Here the open nature of the cluster shows the loss of berries caused by the opening rain. Asking Cabot about the health of her clusters this year she is surprised at the amount of shatter, but quickly remarks she’s okay with it because of what the loss of fruit now can do for the complexity of the wine in the end.

The Pinot Gris is planted on incredibly steep slopes. The Omero Cellars 2011 Pinot Gris offers juicy, bright fruit, with touches of light citrus powder, good movement of acidity, and a smooth mouth feel.

The wines are made to be served with food, and so we ate. Roasted Beets served with a goat cheese whip, and a reduction of pink grapefruit, peach, rosemary, and lavender.

Served with the 2008 Omero Cellars Pinot Noir made with fruit from Chehalem Estate Vineyard, which was planted in 1983. The wine offers rich aromatics, with light caramel notes, pepper, dark fruit, and rose floral, plus rose bramble notes. The palate follows. I am disinclined to spit. This wine has a lot to offer now, but also wants time to show the joy of experience.

Beet greens, red quinoa, fresh green beans, roasted potatoes, broccolini, cherry tomatoes, and balsamic. Oregon vegetables are one of the five necessities for a good life.

The 2009 Omero Cellars Pinot Noir from the Ribbon Ridge AVA but declassified to name as Willamette Valley fruit. The wine offers rose, and lavender spice with a belly of red fruit aromatics. There is a soft mouth feel carrying pepper, and rose perfume alongside thoroughly integrated red fruit and light caramel notes.

Shaved zucchini squash, corn, truffle oil, and shaved Parmesan

Carlton Farms Pork Ribs served in a blackberry and Omero Pinot Noir reduction. I like meat. #meat

The 2010 Omero Cellars Iliad offers rose and cherry blossom with integrated spice and pepper, and a perfumed palate carrying deep date notes. The flavors here are fluid, while also rich and concentrated.

The 2010 Omero Cellars Odyssey–their reserve wine that vintage–shows a darker, fuller, and richer presentation alongside the Iliad. The aromatics show spiced, with pepper, and cooked (not jam) cherry. There are rose back notes here integrated in with the fruit.

What is consistent in Omero Cellars wines is a rich presentation with plenty of movement. There is a focus here on dark-flower aromatics, concentrated fruits, and acidity.

Tartlets from mixed greens and vegetable juice pulp, plum-apricots, with black pepper crumple, Oregon hazelnuts, and truffle honey. Oregon hazelnuts are another of the five things necessary to living a good life.

As a surprise, Destiny Dudley pulled out the first wine Cabot ever made to go with dessert–a 2007 Late Harvest Pinot Gris made in 5 gallon buckets and Cabot’s garage. The wine is remarkably fresh, and only a touch sweet. It offers orange blossom, and quince in a delicate nose, with white herbs, nuts, white peach, very light residual sugar and white pepper, all well integrated through the palate, and served in a label-less bottle (my favorite).

Thank you very much to Sarah Cabot for the wines, and walking me through the vineyards.

Thank you very much to Destiny Dudley for the fantastic food served for lunch.

Thank you to Amanda Moore.

Copyright 2012 all rights reserved. When sharing or forwarding, please attribute to WakawakaWineReviews.com

Willamette Wine 3: Domaine Drouhin

Eyrie Vineyards was the first to plant Pinot Noir in Willamette Valley, establishing their vines in 1965, with 1970 as their first vintage. In 1979 an event affectionately known as The Wine Olympics was staged with 330 wines from 33 countries were evaluated blind by experts from ten different countries. The 1975 vintage of Eyrie Vineyards Reserve finished in the top ten. With that, Oregon wine gained notice.

In 1980, Robert Drouhin of Maison Joseph Drouhin in Burgundy organized a rematch, again with blind judges. There the same Eyrie 1975 Reserve placed second, losing to a 1959 Chambolle-Musigny Drouhin wine by only 2/10s of a point.

By 1980, Willamette Valley was already producing world class wine. Eyrie was the winery to garner this particular Olympics attention, but others in the area were established and producing good quality Pinot Noir, helping to establish the quality of the region as well.

After the results of the Wine Olympcs, and already familiar with Oregon from a tourist perspective, Robert Drouhin began visiting the wine regions of the state more readily, becoming friends with David Lett of Eyrie, David Adelsheim of Adelsheim Vineyard, and others. In 1987, the Drouhin family purchased land at the top of the Dundee Hills, above the Original Willamette plantings established by the Letts, and near other already established vineyards as well. The land purchased by Drouhin, however, was not planted with vines at the time. The site became Domaine Drouhin.

Visiting Domaine Drouhin

the Domaine Drouhin winery was built into the hillside to take advantage of both the natural insulative qualities offered for helping to keep the cellars cool, but also to effectively design a four story (three winery stories plus fourth hosting level) gravity fed winery. In the late 1980s, when the facility was built, it was one of the first gravity fed wineries in the United States.

Filling barrels on the cellar level (third from the top)

aging Willamette Pinot

The Drouhin family emphasizes the quality of the wine that was already begun in the Willamette Valley before their arrival. Visiting Oregon, they appreciated the family owned and run business element of the valley, a perspective shared with Burgundy. In choosing to invest in the area, they wanted to continue to rely on the techniques they already understood from their wine making in Burgundy. One of the choices made in the vineyard as a result is to plant rows closer together (with special ‘over-row’ style tractors being required–I wish I’d gotten a picture, these things are ridiculously cool).

In purchasing undeveloped land, it’s impossible to know how well it will host vines. As Véronique Drouhin, the Domaine Drouhin head wine maker, describes it, only time will tell you what you have. But the site was so beautiful, she said they just had to try. The site was purchased in 1987, and planted in 1988. That first year the Drouhin’s purchased fruit to make wine and see what it was like. 1988 is known as a good vintage for Willamette. From a Burgundian perspective, the now-20 year old vines of Domaine Drouhin are still young.

There is a clear house style visible in both the Oregon and French wines of Drouhin with over arching viticulture and wine making decisions in both places being overseen by the same people

Domaine Drouhin offers side-by-side tastings with wines from the wineries in France.

The 2008 Chablis Premier Cru offers focused acidity, with an ultra clean presentation, touches of chalk, and citrus powder primarily offering lemon, with touches of white grapefruit. This wine has medium alcohol, medium+ acidity, and a medium+ finish. (for some reason I also noted “not funny” on this wine. I really wish I remembered WHY I wrote that there. I enjoyed this wine, so I’m not sure the reference but it made me laugh to find the comment later.)

The 2010 Arthur Dundee Hills Chardonnay carries a softer mouth feel, but with still persistent acidity carrying the more vibrant but still focused fruit flavors through to a medium+ finish. The tart flavor is softer here, white also paired with well-integrated white pepper, and touches of chalk.

The 2011 Rosé of Pinot Noir offers a nose of dried rose and leaf, with touches of rose oil, a smooth mouth feel and palate of dried rose petal, and light grapefruit zest. This wine shows quenching acidity, and a medium+ finish.

The 2009 Savigny les Beaune Clos des Godeaux has a vibrant berry nose, with an ultra clean presentation of berry and cooked green and dried herbs. There is a nice balance of lifted aromatics with rich earth belly and fresh movement through the palate here.

The 2010 Pinot Noir from Domaine Drouhin stood out here as my favorite over the tasting, with a berry, and lightly dried berry nose, followed by a juicy dried berry, light bramble rose bush, and well integrated pepper palate. There is a pleasant combination of drying finish with juicy acidity, and a medium+ finish.

The Laurène blend is always aged 3 years, and made from barrels selected after fermentation. The 2008 offers nice high notes with a rounder aromatics than the Willamette Valley Pinot. There is an earthy undercurrent that carries hints of smoke and no heaviness. The palate offers a nice tannin traction, with plenty of berry and dried berry driven movement.

it’s been a good year in Willamette for bumble bees. They were dancing about with the lavender outside the winery.

Thank you very much to David Millman.

Thank you to Ashley Bell.

Thank you to Dan Fredman, and to Lisa Shara Hall.

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