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Pictures Looking Back: A 7-day Tour of Colli Orientali del Friuli: Final Pictures

Thank you to the Consortium of Wine Makers of Colli Orientali del Friuli, and of Ramandolo

Copyright 2012 all rights reserved. When sharing or forwarding, please attribute to WakawakaWineReviews.com

Red Grape Varieties of Colli Orientali del Friuli: Regional Varietal Characteristics Cards

Grapes of Colli Orientali del Friuli

The earth of appellation of Colli Orientali del Friuli, along the Slovenian border of Italy, hosts a mineral rich marl that is unique not only because of its blue color (all except in one part of the appellation where it is red), but also because of its high calcium content. The soil offers a rich minerality to the wines of the region that often shows as either a faintly salty quality, or a precise and dry slate.

Sitting along the intersection point of the Alps with the Balkans, just a few kilometers above the Adriatic, Colli Orientali del Friuli generally carries a mix of Mediterranean with Alpine climate–a cool, fairly mild and well-regulated temperature range with drying winds.

The combination of the soil and climate of the region intersect to produce unique characteristics for international grapes, and excellent growing conditions for grapes not seen any where else.

Indigenous Varieties

Tasting through Colli Orientali del Friuli hits all my love-for-obscure-grape buttons, as the region particularly celebrates its indigenous varieties. As Paolo Rapuzzi explained, the area once hosted over 150 grape types local to the region but after the phylloxera epidemic international varieties were planted instead replacing the original native plants.

In fact, Italian wine history includes the demand for focus on international varieties only into the 1970s when the Rapuzzi family helped fight the regulations to allow for grape farmers to grow indigenous vines without fine. Today, Colli Orientali has a huge focus on the local plants with a great pride in continuing to cultivate and bottle their wines.

Schioppettino

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We were lucky enough to taste through a wealth of Schioppettino, one of the group’s favorites of the wine types explored during our week-long visit to the region. The grape is still today predominately grown only through Friuli, though some few wine makers have begun to experiment with growing the variety in California in small quantities.

The Colli Orientali Consortium celebrates an association of wine makers in Prepotto–the village where Schioppettino is believed to have originated–dedicated to cultivating the best in quality for the variety. The Association of Prepotto Schioppettino Producers hosted a dinner for us during our trip where we tasted at least 15 different presentations of the varietal, and one Schioppettino-Refosco blend. To read more on the evening and the variety check out Do Bianchi’s post here: http://dobianchi.com/2012/04/10/schioppettino-the-next-big-thing-history-of-its-revival-and-fortune/

At its best, Schioppettino is a beautifully balanced, and elegant wine carrying a mix of fresh red and wild berries, alongside peppery notes, and light herbaceousness. It tends towards pleasing tannins with a smooth texture and bright acidity that cleans the mouth as you drink.

Refosco dal peduncolo rosso

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As Paolo Rapuzzi explained to us, while Schioppettino really is only grown through the Friuli region, Refosco extends slightly into the surrounding areas as well. Part of the large Refosco family, Refosco dal peduncolo originates in Friuli, showcasing its best characteristics thanks to the conditions of the area.

Refosco is a grape of impressive strength with the characteristics for a stunning wine of good acidity and strong tannin both. It has all of the structure for excellent aging, and admittedly its strength can sometimes work against drinking it too young. However, several wine makers throughout Colli Orientali del Friuli showed us wines that took the balance of Refosco’s strength with a younger approachability. The fruit of this variety shows a mix of dark and red berries, alongside primary herbaceous notes.

Pignolo

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Pignolo is a wine uncommon outside the Friuli region (though there is another variety from Lombardy that shares the same name but that most wine experts believe is not related (See 169 Oz Clark’s Encyclopedia of Grapes 2001)). I fell in love with its elegant intensity and nice balance of acidity with tannin. The flavors here are both fresh and rich showing red berries mixed with spice. The spice on these wines is known to develop greater sophistication with age.

Tazzelenghe

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Least common of the indigenous varieties of Colli Orientali del Friuli, we were able to taste only one Tazzelenghe. The grape is so rare it is barely mentioned in even the most comprehensive of wine books. I count myself lucky to have tried an offering, and though uncommonly, there are some varietals of this grape imported to the United States, if you’re interested in trying one.

The primary characteristics of this grape are its herbaceous notes, which soften with age, showing as dominate to its ripe red stone and berry fruit. The wine gains greater balance as it ages, showcasing good structure and distinct tannin characteristics.

International Varieties

As dedicated to Indigenous varieties as the wine makers of Colli Orientali del Friuli are, they also produce several international varieties that develop their own profile unique to the region.

Merlot

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Most common of the red international varieties to the area, Merlot bottles here as its own varietal, or as the anchor point for a number of the area’s red blends.

Cabernet Franc

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Cabernet Franc holds a key role in the red international grapes for the region. It is produced both under its own full moniker, and as a local wine called simply, Cabernet (t is pronounced here). When presented as Cabernet, however, the wine may be either a full Cabernet Franc, or blended with its offspring Cabernet Sauvignon.

The variety carries a complicated history through the region, however. As has occurred with various grape varieties around the world, Cabernet Franc was  widely planted through the region decades ago and then discovered to actually be Carmenere. Some believe that the wines of Friuli named Cabernet Franc are almost entirely Carmenere, showing the more vegetal qualities of that grape than what Cabernet Franc would tend to offer. Because of the history of naming and the establishment of the wine regulations through the area, however, the wine still appears under its original-to-the-region name, Cabernet Franc.

Cabernet Sauvignon

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Cabernet Sauvignon only occasionally appears on its own in Colli Orientali as many wine makers choose to use it in blend with either Merlot, or Cabernet Franc instead of on its own. Though it produces a pleasing, full bodied red in the hills of this appellation, it is not commonly grown in Italy in general.

Pinot Noir

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The least common of the international varieties in Friuli, Pinot Noir is also the hardest to grow due to dampness hugging in amongst the grape clusters. Still, some producers are dedicated to the variety and develop it at low levels out of love for the flavor and style it produces.

Copyright 2012 all rights reserved. When sharing or forwarding, please attribute to WakawakaWineReviews.com

Pictures Looking Back: A 7-day Tour of Colli Orientali del Friuli: Day 4

Day 4

Thank you to i Clivi, Livio Fellugia, Abbazia di Rosazzo, Ronco del Gnemiz

Copyright 2012 all rights reserved. When sharing or forwarding, please attribute to WakawakaWineReviews.com

For the Friends: Wonderful Wines with Specogna and Toblar

We were lucky enough to share dinner with the Specogna family. They were so generous as to pull two different wines right from the barrel for us–a Picolit we closed dinner with (something sweet for last), and a Pinot Grigio Ramato that had been on skins for a month (it is a wine “For Friends”, as Christian told us. How lucky to have such friends! I count myself truly blessed.).

With the meal we tasted through a good portion of the Specogna portfolio, including the father’s 1998 Chardonnay that showed incredible life and richness–flavors of almond, lime zest and light pepper. A real treat.

An interesting surprise was tasting how well the Ramato paired with the family’s Rovata–a bean soup made with fermented turnip that stole my heart. The Ramato had the pleasing tannin effect and overall almost crunchy texture of the long skin contact style with nutty, light date, lime zest and maple notes alongside the salt mineral notes common to the region, all shown through a vibrant strawberry-copper color.

Check out Whitney’s picture of the gorgeous wine–

I really am so grateful.

Specogna

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Specogna wines carry a style much like their spokesman, Cristian–passionate, enlivened and enlivening, fresh, and richly expressive. I was impressed by the work he and his brother Michele are doing, and by their presence as well.

Toblar

Michele Specogna has also ventured into a second wine making project with Paolo Duri. Together they are producing a portfolio of wonderful wines under the label Toblar. We were able to taste their Schioppettino during dinner with the Specogna family, and then to taste three more of their portfolio later during our visit in Colli Orientali del Friuli.

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The Schioppettino was one of the most elegant presentations of the varietal we tasted during the trip. The Refosco carried a great balance of Refosco’s signature strength in a more integrated and drinkable presentation. It was one of the most approachable, and at the same time distinctly Refosco varietals we tasted.

Thank you so much, again, to the Specogna family and Violetta Babina for your generosity, and warmth of spirit.

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Keep an eye out! Specogna and Toblar wines are being imported to the UK, and are soon to be imported into the United States as well. I honestly can’t wait to have more wines from both labels!

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Copyright 2012 all rights reserved. When sharing or forwarding, please attribute to WakawakaWineReviews.com

Going Ahead and Saying #cof2012 Secrets: Spending the Week with Such a Group

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Can I just go ahead and say the things we’re not supposed to say after trips like this–a week long tour of Colli Orientali del Friuli with the #cof2012 group?

The whole #cof2012 group with the man that would be Conte

…That I woke up one morning half way through the trip and my first thought was, I really like each of these people. How lucky!

Chris

Chris with his first Picolit at Solder

…That Chris, aka. Houston_Foodie, is outrageously easy to get along with. I met him first of the group, as we shared the flight from Amsterdam to Venice, and though we were both exhausted and had just fought our way through security, we were happy to meet each other. And that, seriously, sums up the group dynamic for most of the week–even when any of us were exhausted, we got along with ease.

But, back to Chris, there isn’t anyone else with whom I’d rather share an appreciative nod across the table because of how good the food is. He knows his stuff, and he knows how to appreciate it too. And he’s brilliant at showing his calm appreciation to a host. I’m so grateful for that. I liked too how comfortably we could chat about our views on wine, and whatever aspect of the trip.

Talia’s Spirit Animal: The Unicorn. Image from Unicorn-Pictures.com

Talia is one of the funniest people I’ve ever met. She’s a total hipster, but it works. That is, she’s a hipster without any pretension. She just happens to like all the cool, (at least partially) ironic stuff there is to like in the world. I haven’t laughed so hard, or enjoyed someone else laughing so hard in a long time as with Talia in this recent week. Talia’s got that great combo of lightening up any situation, while totally knowing her shit. Her writing is beautiful, and smart, and she has impeccable taste in birds.

Part of the #cof2012 group shortly after arrival. photo by Jeremy Parzen

Whitney is beautiful, and charming, and great for dry humor. I love how covertly quirky she is, and how readily she admits to where she’s coming from. She’s honest, and seems to know what she wants while being willing to try new things. And did I mention charming? Plus, damn she takes great pictures. I also look forward to a visit in LA at some future date when I can experience her wine-food pairing practices.

Stuart George, Photo by Whitney

Stuart, no doubt, is a bit of a maze, and worth patiently getting to know. I told him directly that I was glad we’d had the week because I would have been intrigued by him up front, but with the extra time it was easier to get a start on getting to know him. His dry, of-the-moment humor spices up any moment, and he has a steadiness that does well in a fast paced travel around week like this. To put it another way, Stuart has a sort of reliability that comes, I believe, from being a man that knows himself. (And, as the above portrait by Whitney shows, he doesn’t always wear his eggs-and-bacon cricket sweater.) I’ll be glad to patiently get to know him.

Jeremy’s Wonderful Joy, Photo by Whitney

Most of all though, thank you to Jeremy. His translation skills were irreplaceable. His joy was infectious. And his offer to vet any man that offers to date me–well, I’m taking him up on that. Jeremy’s ability to appreciate the people he is with, and to celebrate each of their talents as he sees them–well, that’s irreplaceable stuff too. He’s got a glowing heart, and he wishes for others to be happy. What more could you ever want from anyone? (Besides his impeccable taste in wine.)

Talia, Stuart (back to his eggs-and-bacon cricket sweater), Whitney at the Consortium Office

If any of you ever need a wingman in any of your future wine adventures, short notice or not, feel free to call me up. I’ll be happy to see each of you every time.

Cheers!

Lunch and Tasting with Ronchi di Cialla: Review Comics of Ciallabianco, Schioppettino, Refosco, Verduzzo

The History of Ronchi di Cialla

Beginning their winery in 1970, Paolo and Dina Rapuzzi dedicated their work to indigenous vines. Doing so was no easy task, however, as at that time many of the vines had been lost due to the introduction of Bordeaux varieties following the phylloxera epidemic. The Rapuzzis pursued their passion anyway and succeeded in not only establishing an indigenous variety-only winery, but also in saving some of the local grape types for the region.

As their son Ivan explains, Friuli is one of the places in Europe with the greatest biodiversity as it sits where the Alps intersect the Balkans and the Mediterranean via the Adriatic. As a result, the Eastern side of Friuli offers a blend of a Mediterranean and alpine climate. One grape in particular, Schioppettino does very well under such conditions, showing in its character the wild fruit of the mountains with the freshness of the sea. The Rapuzzis played a crucial role in establishing Schioppettino’s current strength in Friuli–the only area of the world where it has a foothold.

When the Rapuzzis established Ronchi di Cialla in 1970 Schioppettino was almost entirely gone from the region. Paolo and Dina responded by hunting through the surrounding hillsides for feral vines of indigenous grapes. They succeeded in locating about 60 such vines of Schioppettino from many different areas. They took cuttings and with those made many more plants.

According to Paolo, scientists have studied the genetic makeup of Schioppettino and found that there are so many clones within their one subzone that it would seem to originate there in Friuli within the Prepotto area.

We were lucky enough to taste a lot of Schioppettino during our visit to Colli Orientali, including those of the producers of the Schioppettino di Prepotto–an association dedicated to establishing and maintaining the quality of Schioppettino within the valley of Prepotto.

During our lunch with the Rapuzzis at Ronchi di Cialla we were also able to taste their famous white blend–Ciallabianco, made of the indigenous grapes Ribolla Gialla, Verduzzo friulano, and Picolit; their Refosco; and finally their dessert wine Verduzzo. What a wonderful treat!

Thank you to the Rapuzzi family for hosting us during a wonderful lunch!

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To read more on Schioppettino and even see a video of how to properly pronounce the grape name, check out @dobianchi‘s post on the variety here: http://dobianchi.com/2012/04/10/schioppettino-the-next-big-thing-history-of-its-revival-and-fortune/

For comparisons to other Schioppettino, see my review of a vertical tasting of the varietal from Ronco del Gnemiz follow this link: http://wakawakawinereviews.com/2012/04/06/ronco-del-gnemiz-schioppettino-vertical-1988-1989-1994-1996-1999-2006-2009-2010/

Photos of our lunch with the Rapuzzis can be seen here: http://wakawakawinereviews.com/2012/04/09/pictures-looking-back-a-7-day-tour-of-colli-orientali-del-friuli-days-1-3/

More on how Paolo and Dina began their winery can be read here: http://wakawakawinereviews.com/2012/04/02/lunch-at-ronchi-di-cialla-meeting-the-man-with-whom-it-began/

Copyright 2012 all rights reserved. When sharing or forwarding, please attribute to WakawakaWineReviews.com

Arrived Back Home With Greetings

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After 26 hours of travel I arrived back home to this:

My (ridiculously cute) parents had flown down from Alaska to be with the girl-girl with I was away. They picked me up at the airport, we spent about a day and a half together before they headed off for more of their own adventures. And now I’m back in Flagstaff spending my time like this:

Me and the girl-girl

Cheers!

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This week I’ll be posting more details from the trip to Friuli–review comics on some of the stand out wines from the trip, pictures from days 4-7, and an overview article on Colli Orientali del Friuli complete with the appellation varieties’ typicity cards–you know, like this: http://wakawakawinereviews.com/2012/04/04/colli-orientali-del-friuli-sauvignon-considering-the-varietys-local-typicity/

Interested in seeing more from our trip? The aggregate blog is still up and being updated here: http://cof2012.com/

So grateful for my time in Friuli. Miss it. Thank you again to The Consortium of Winemakers from Colli Orientali for hosting us. I’m so grateful!

 

Pictures Looking Back: A 7-day Tour of Colli Orientali del Friuli: Days 1-3

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Day 1: Arrival and Greeting

Thank you to La Sclusa, Solder, the Consortium of Colli Orientali del Friuli e Marina

Day 2

Thank you to Ronchi di Cialla, Conte d’Attimis-Maniago

Day 3

Thank you to La Vigne di Zamo, Ronco Delle Betulle, e Specogna

Copyright 2012 all rights reserved. When sharing or forwarding, please attribute to WakawakaWineReviews.com

Day Dreaming from Minneapolis Back to Ramandolo: Il Roncat

Giovanni Dri, Il Roncat

“My grandfather, and my father, both made wine. But they were also soldiers in the war. My father told me not to make wine. It was too much work everyday all the time. But, unfortunately, he died young, and so he could not influence me. Now my daughter has decided also to make wine, so that is four generations.

“I was born on a farm just over this hillside. The elementary school was up at the top of the village on the mountain [where we ate lunch yesterday, the view in the first photo of yesterday’s post]. In one of the rooms of the school there were the five elementary school classes all in one room with one teacher. So they were not spending as much money on school as they do now. Now they have buses that drive you. But I would have to walk all the way there up the mountain. It would take me 30 minutes to get there. I would walk through the vineyards. In the middle of winter when I was coming home from school, and I was hungry, I would stop in the vineyards and pick the grape bunches they had forgotten.

“But why would I be talking about December? Because the snow would start to fall and I would eat these grape bunches that were left behind, and they would be cold, sweet raisins and juice. And recently I started to think, why can’t we make wine out of these bunches? And so I named one of my wines, Uve Decemberine Ramandolo (The grapes of December). The fruit all comes from Verduzzo in the first week of December.”

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I arrive back in Arizona later tonight. We saw so many things in Colli Orientali, there will be more posts on our trip still to come.

Be safe! Cheers!

Visiting and Tasting Ramandolo

The View From the Top, Ramandolo

A set of 9 out of 20 Ramandolo producers wines

View from in the Village at Il Roncat

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We fly back first thing this morning. The flight will arrive again in Arizona in the middle of the night. Me? Exhausted, happy.

More on Friuli to come!

In the meantime, check out this lovely post of pics of our group by Whitney over at her site Brunellos Have More Fun, and all the posts at our group site: http://cof2012.com/