Time with Friends
from left: Kate, me, Amy
Two of my friends from Graduate School are here visiting from Canada this week. It’s so good to see them. They’re the sort of people that being with just feels normal, even after a few years apart. So, I’ll be taking a break from posting this week to focus instead on time with them. More next Monday.
Love to everyone! Cheers!
Copyright 2013 all rights reserved. When sharing or forwarding, please attribute to WakawakaWineReviews.com.
Photos from Shake Ridge
Ann Kraemer, and the Kraemer family hosted a tour and tasting of Shake Ridge Vineyard in Amador County yesterday. The site grows several-tens of acres of primarily red varieties planted on a mix of rootstocks, and a host of training styles. It’s a beautiful site.
The event began with pork belly sliders and a walk from the entrance of the vineyard almost to the far end, stopping under shaded groves along the way to taste wines. Each of the wineries that use Shake Ridge fruit were represented. After the walk, dinner was served with the opportunity to re-taste the wines, and talk more with the winemakers.
Here are photos from the event.
A Tribute to Grace 2011 Shake Ridge Graciano, and Grenache
Enfield Wine Co 2011 Shake Ridge Tempranillo
two versions of Barbera from Shake Ridge, Forlorn Hope Wine
Matthew Rorick, Forlorn Hope Wine
Dirty & Rowdy 2011 Shake Ridge Mourvedre
Evan Frazier, Ferdinand Wine
Chris Pittenger and Helen Keplinger
John Lockwood and Randy Caparoso
wines of Shake Ridge
Amy Seese and baby, Sue Kraemer
the winemakers of Shake Ridge
Jr sitting within rows of head-trained Zinfandel, Shake Ridge
***
Sending our best to Ann.
Thank you to Ann Kraemer. Thank you to the Kraemer family.
Thank you to Hardy Wallace.
To read more about Shake Ridge, check out this great article by Jon Bonné on some of the lesser known, high quality vineyards of California: http://www.sfgate.com/food/article/California-s-best-lesser-known-vineyards-3294626.php#page-2
Copyright 2013 all rights reserved. When sharing or forwarding, please attribute to WakawakaWineReviews.com.
The Seven Percent Solution: 17 Wineries, Crazy Grapes
Bergamot Alley in Healdsburg did a bang up job hosting a media and trade portion of the upcoming 7 Percent Solution wine tasting (Sarah even created a fantastic book listing wineries, wines, providing note space, and a clever business card holder). The public tasting occurs Saturday.
The event celebrates wines from 17 wineries in California developing their portfolios with lesser known, lesser planted varieties. As the story goes, approximately 93% of the vines in California rest in only 7 grape types. The 7% Solution brought together wines with a focus on the remaining few.
There wasn’t a bad wine poured, and there were a few excellent wines too. It’s hard to choose favorites in a group like that. Some wineries shared unreleased wines, others older vintages and first tries, and a fair number of unicorn wines appeared–wines of such small production they’re spoken of but seen only by the pure of heart that truly believe in their existence. I believe.
RPM’s 2012 Gamay was one of my genuine favorites. Grown in pink granite, there is a nerviness to this wine that accents its flavors beautifully. The RPM Gamay is all about subtle complexity pulsing through beautiful tension. It gives a richness that washes over the mouth with just a pinch of traction through the finish, and beautiful aromatics.
The 2012 Abrente Albarino from Bedrock and Michael Havens remains a favorite (I had enjoyed it too last weekend). Where previous vintages were perhaps softer in the mouth, the 2012 brings in 40% fruit grown in limestone to balance the rich flavors of the Stewart Vineyard with the tension and zing of the Watson. It’s a gorgeous, stimulating combination.
Ryme Cellars woos me with their 2010 Aglianico, a wine others commented may be their best vintage of that grape. The dark fruit comes through with a light bodied presentation and well integrated spice to offer complex freshness.
The Forlorn Hope 2011 “Que Saudade” Verdelho really sings with a fresh, feminine, musk I can’t get enough of–all outdoorsy, pert, and interested, with great viscosity and range of flavor.
The just released Dirty & Rowdy’s 2012 Semillon with focused earthiness and pleasing texture was being poured on Wednesday out of magnum. It’s a treat.
I was also pleasantly surprised to find the Stark 2011 Viognier, a wine that absolutely fights its fruit’s stereotypes to give great concentration and texture on the palate with a long nervy finish. Two Shepherds’ 2011s are drinking perfectly right now so drink while you can (I think they’re about sold out but he’s pouring them). broc cellars 2012 Picpoul still has that surprisingly fresh-complexity of the 2011 but with a richer flourish.
Scott Schultz is pouring his new whites for Jolie-Laide. They’re a nice pair of Gris wines giving fresh spice in the Pinot Gris, and textural focus in the Trousseau Gris. But you’ll have to keep an eye for an opening as he pours. (All the girls were deservedly loving his table.) The Idlewild 2012 Arneis was all seering, pretty, and textural with layers of flavor. They’re one of the labels that helped get the event started too, so be sure to thank them.
Best of all, the 7% Solution was just full to the brim with good, and super fun people.
Here are some photos from the event.
Ryan Glaab, Ryme Cellars; Hardy Wallace, Dirty & Rowdy; Pax Mahle, Wind Gap
Hardy Wallace, Dirty & Rowdy; Nathan Roberts, Arnot-Roberts and RPM; Megan Glaab, Ryme Cellars; Chris Cottrell, Bedrock Wine
Forlorn Hope Wines, Dirty and Rowdy Family Wines
William Allen, Two Shepherds
Pax Mahle, Wind Gap; Mick Unti, Unti Wines; Nathan Roberts, Arnot Roberts, RPM
broc cellars Picpoul
Sam Bilbro, Idlewild Wines
Stark Viognier
Matthiasson Refosco (one of the unicorns)
Raj Parr, RPM
Raj Parr and Duncan Arnot Meyers, RPM
Scott Schultz, Jolie-Laide
***
Thank you to Pax Mahle. Thank you to Dan Petroski.
Thank you to Kevin, Sarah, and Sam.
Copyright 2013 all rights reserved. When sharing or forwarding, please attribute to WakawakaWineReviews.com.
Attending Semillon University, Part 1
presenting the egg
Natural Selection Theory 2010 “Quartz” Hunter Valley Semillon
John, Renee, Kate, Hardy listening to the egg
Stevie, Josiah viewing the egg
Okay, look, I’m totally joking about that “Attending Semillon University” bit. The truth is, most of us really do take wine THAT seriously, but this was just a super devoted Semillon party. Although at one point John, one of the hosts, did comment, “Dude. We’re making Ribolla jealous.”
We opened the occasion a touch early, before the big group arrived with a very special wine brought back from Australia. A small group of playful, and talented winemakers labeled the Natural Selection Theory (NST) made very small experimental lots of Hunter Valley Semillon in ceramic eggs. The story (which I’ve been slowly getting ready to write on in a few weeks, so I’ll leave many of the details for then) is full of brilliance, hilarity, and ultimately also sadness. Sam Hughes, one of the winemakers, died this recent December.
To be carrying one of NST’s ceramic eggs back then from Victoria, as a gift from David Fesq to be shared with friends here in California, was overwhelming. It’s hard to express how grateful I am.
Hardy Wallace, of Dirty & Rowdy Family Wines, knew of the NST project, and had considered NST’s Semillon a dream wine that he hoped, but didn’t quite expect to one day drink. Without knowing Wallace’s wish to drink the NST, when Fesq first gifted me the egg, I knew Hardy, and his wife Kate were the two people I would wait to open the wine with. We decided the party was the perfect occasion.
In recognition of Hughes’s work, in gratefulness for friendship, and in high regard for the true treasures of rarity that fill the world, a few of us opened Natural Selection Theory’s 2010 “Quartz” to open a Semillon party, that hosts Hardy Wallace, Matthew Rorick (of Forlorn Hope Wines), and John Trinidad (of Just-Plain-Awesome) all affectionately named “Semageddon 2013.” Dude, we even had t-shirts.
The wine in the egg turned out to be beautiful to drink, fascinating in its ever turning presentation, and rich in flavor with a truly juicy-vibrant finish. It could have aged for years more. It was one of my top favorites of the wines tasted. Coupling the loveliness of the wine itself, with the gratefulness of sharing the egg with such a group of friends… let me say, such moments are why I do everything I do. Thank you.
Jr. was kind enough to take pictures. The photos of the egg opening ceremony were taken by Jr. The rest were taken throughout the party by me. Following are notes too on a few of the stand out wines.
Photos from Semageddon 2013
Hardy and I with the egg
Having discovered that the Natural Selection Theory was one of Hardy’s dream wines, I asked if he would please do the honor of opening it for all of us.
Hardy and the egg
the egg holds the answer to a question.
opening the egg
first pour
the answer is sharing in friendship
A Few Wines from the Party
* Australia
Old Bridge Cellars sent along a three vintage vertical of Brokenwood’s Hunter Valley Semillon. The 2012 was a great example of how outrageously pert and nervy young Hunter Valley truly is. It was full of searingly focused lemon and white grapefruit with beach grass touches and a rich round mouthfeel. The 2008 hit decidedly between the two vintages, sliding closer to the 2012 in presentation than one would expect after tasting the earthiness of the 2007. The 2008 kept the citrus elements of the 2012 while dialing them in with a bit of a closed phase in comparison. The 2007 gave a nice insight into how rich, and earthy the Hunter Valley Semillon’s get with age, though the wine could have aged for years more. It complemented citrus elements with dried herbal aspects, richer on the palate than the nose. Pretty all around though. I recommend older vintages of Brokenwood.
Erin holding Tyrrell 1997
Sticking with the Hunter Valley, Tegan and Matthew brought some older vintages of Tyrrell’s Wines, one from 2007 and 1997. Both were great examples at the rich earthiness, dark dried beach grasses, and dried herbal aspects of aged Hunter Valley with still juicy juicy acidity. Both vintages were yummy, but the 1997 showed-up its brother giving a grounded richness that the 2007 seemed to be sleeping through before getting ready to show.
Amy and Renee with the Torbreck 2010 Woodcutter’s Semillon
Staying with Australia, but moving over to Barossa Valley, Torbreck sent their 2010 Woodcutter’s Semillon. The Barossa’s style gives wines with a lighter focus, and more rounded acidity compared to the high-nervy youth of the Hunter. Torbreck’s Semillon ages beautifully into herbal notes on a delicate frame. The 2010 shows an almost rustic focus right now as though the wine is rooting down to prepare for sleep before a big journey. It’s a tasty wine with more traction and less scream than its Hunter Valley cousins.
* California
Josiah getting Dirty & Rowdy
Dirty & Rowdy debuted their newly bottled 2012 Semillon, showing what a blend of skin contact lots with a straight-to-press fermented in concrete lot can do. The result is a richly flavored, pleasurably textured focus on lightly salty beach grass, dried wild farmed herbs, and stone. The fruit is hiding right now, an indication, I believe, of even more to come from this wine. Where the 2011 D&R Semillon was feral and jive-talking, the 2012 carries sophistication and still hometown attitude. The jive talker has upgraded into a new suit and hat still coupled with b-boy shoes.
One of the real treats of the party included a five vintage vertical of Forlorn Hope‘s “Nacre” Semillon. The 2006 and 2007 were shared from magnum, with 2008-2010 offered in 750s. The 2006 gave a pretty, citrus blossom with smoky and sandy beach grass presentation followed by a long shivering, super juicy finish. The 2010, on the far other end, came in with zippy jalapeno notes, nut paper, and lemon plus white grapefruit zestiness. This vintage is not yet released and drinks like its pinching itself to wake up and get ready–not quite there yet but full of rich dreaming to share in the near future. In the middle, the 2008 was my favorite of the five vintages giving a lovely balance of earthy, grassy, herbalness, with refreshing citrus juiciness and dance. Yum.
In the dessert wine category, Bedrock‘s 2009 Late Harvest Semillon from the gorgeous Monte Rosso site picks fruit from late 1800s vines, planted at high elevation. The wine has great richness and concentration with a sneaking core of vibrant juiciness that washes the palate again and again. Lovely.
A Few More Photos
With so many wines to taste eventually the notes stopping being taken, and the moments were captured simply with pictures of standouts. Here are a few.
not yet released Weichi 2012 California (this wine is good-keep an eye out for it-it’s got a great round, lightly weighted mouthfeel with light beach grass, beeswax with hints of honey, touches of gooseberry and citrus)
John with Matthiasson‘s 2011 Semillon from Napa (this is an ultra small production wine that is refreshing, delicate, pretty, and clean. It’s a lovely combination of citrus, and tomato leaf that I really enjoy but also wouldn’t have blinded as Semillon.)
moose pie and corn
eventually we all fell into Burgundy
Hardy reaches to touch the Burgundy
(I love how Matthew gets progressively more excited as Hardy gets ever closer)
only some of the bottles
***
Thank you to Matthew Rorick, Hardy Wallace, and John Trinidad.
Check out this great write up on Semageddon 2013 by Tom Wark over on his blog, Fermentation: http://fermentationwineblog.com/2013/05/napa-come-for-the-wine-stay-for-the-people/
A few thoughts from Mister Hardy Wallace himself on it: http://dirtyandrowdy.tumblr.com/post/49784399237/the-day-after-semegeddon
Copyright 2013 all rights reserved. When sharing or forwarding, please attribute to WakawakaWineReviews.com.
The Iron Chef Morimoto, Ruinart Champagne Cooking Demonstration
This recent weekend, I was lucky enough to attend a cooking demonstration with Master Chef Morimoto including perfect pairings with Ruinart Champagne and the house’s Chef de Caves, Frédéric Panaiotis held at Pebble Beach Food & Wine.
Master Chef Morimoto on stage alone, selecting his perfect tools in preparation for the demonstration
I was grateful to be included, knowing he is held in high regard for his sushi, good nature, and cooking talents. What hadn’t registered, however, was that he is held in high regard partially because he is on television showing these things. He is, in fact, one of the original Iron Chefs, and for many the favorite. The truth is, I haven’t had a television hook-up since 1996 (except for one brief stretch in 2000, when Jr. was only a year old and I watched all 10-years of Beverly Hills, 90210 (the original series), skipping the trashy season 8, in 4 months). Some of the heights of fame, as a result, allude me.
Master Chef Morimoto and Ruinart Chef de Caves Panaiotis prior to the demonstration
What hadn’t alluded me is Morimoto’s positive reputation. The fame part hit when at the start of the demonstration the audience curtain was opened, and a beautiful, very small, older woman ran across the room ahead of everyone to ensure she got her seat with the best view.
Morimoto’s cooking area set up in advance of the demonstration, as seen in the demonstration mirror
The event, as they explained, was a marriage of two cultures–Japanese and French. The demonstration, then, brought together an account of Japanese sushi tradition, with insights into French wine culture, and advice on how to enjoy the two together in a meal.
the team works on final preparations prior to inviting in the audience
Ruinart’s Chef de Caves Frédéric Panaiotis opened the event explaining, he is happy to give us the chance to enjoy champagne sitting down, with a meal so that it may be more closely appreciated. Also, by drinking bubbles in a wine glass, rather than a flute, the aromas are more accessible. In describing his own history with sparkling wine, Panaiotis explained he’s been drinking champagne pretty much all his life. In the region it is common to place a finger dipped in the wine on a baby’s lips after birth, the first offering to a new life. He also joked, “Champagne is what my grandmother used to drink when she was not so happy.” He went on, “but it is also a beverage we know is not just for special moments. It is for anytime. Champagne makes the moment special.”
Ruinart Blanc de Blancs, and sushi pairing
In thinking about food and wine pairing, Morimoto offered insight in relation to how he also flavors the fish itself. When preparing sushi he has four different levels of tamari, four different densities of sauce. Seafood with no fat–octopus, shrimp, as examples–does well with lighter flavored sauce, lighter tamari. Fish with more fat, mackerel in winter, perhaps, take double the flavor needed as mackerel in summer when there is less fat in the meat. The more fat on the fish the more soy and wasabi you use. Similarly, when thinking about the wine, Panaiotis offers, a clear fish pairs with a really clear wine. The flavors accented on the fish, then, or added to a dish, can echo the flavors of the wine.
Chef Morimoto introduces the first course, explaining the differing cuts on a single fish
The Ruinart blanc de blanc is served to us alongside a Japanese white fish that is unique to the region but resembles an American Amber Jack. The Ruinart rosé, on the other hand, comes in a bit more savory, and is thus paired with preparations that have hardier flavors, such as fried dumpling in tomato, salmon, and uni. The team offers too that it would work with lighter meats, such as duck.
the demonstration included large screen close ups for the audience
Both wines, however, are delicate, all about subtle layers of rich flavor. It is here that Panaiotis gets excited about his wines with Japanese food. Morimoto’s preparations resemble a description of the wine–simple, clean food with rich flavors and freshness.
Morimoto and Panaiotis worked together. As Morimoto prepared more intricate cuts, Panaiotis was able to discuss the food and wine. Morimoto also offers insight on the champagne along with Panaiotis.
Chef Morimoto has been studying and developing his cooking techniques for well over 30-years, and offers tips to the audience on how to choose the best fish. First, he explains, his favorite knife is any knife that is sharp. The best cuts of fish have not been sitting directly on the ice–the cold damages the meat over time. When eating sushi, place the wasabi directly onto the fish, not into the soy, and put the fish side of a nigiri role down onto the tongue, with the rice side up. This gives the purest flavor.
a glimpse of the audience
The team explains that this demonstration is a proud moment. Chef Morimoto is honored to be included in a prestigious food & wine event. Wine is an established, and respected culture. Twenty years ago seeing an Asian chef on the itinerary for such a demonstration would have been unheard of or un-thought. Panaiotis, likewise, is pleased to see Ruinart alongside Japanese food, where he thinks it can pair so well.
Morimoto puts final touches on Panaiotis’s sushi
In considering his Iron Chef reputation, Morimoto explains that even there he is not cooking for the judges, or cooking to beat the other competitor, but instead cooking to improve himself. With each ingredient challenge the approach is similar. “I cannot do same, same, same.” He says, “So, I have to create a new thing. Every single time, I’m shaking when I hold the knife, then I have to ask myself, what am I making? Each time, I’m challenged. I’m shaking.”
Chef Morimoto Sings
After the demonstration was complete, the audience was invited to propose questions. An audience member asked if Morimoto would sing. Bashful at first, he offered what he called “a fisherman song from Japan.”
***
Thank you to Chef Morimoto and Chef de Caves Panaiotis.
Thank you to Mark Stone and Nicolas Ricroque.
Thank you to Sarah Logan, and Vanessa Kanegai.
Thank you to Bettye Saxon.
Copyright 2013 all rights reserved. When sharing or forwarding, please attribute to WakawakaWineReviews.com.
Pebble Beach Food & Wine
One of the great annual food and wine extravaganzas on the West Coast United States occurs each Spring in Pebble Beach. The town becomes host to the best chefs, wines, and sommeliers from all over the world, as well as the folks that want to be there to drink in their offerings.
Here are photos surveying some of the activities I was lucky enough to attend over three of the four days (it begins Thursday but I arrived Friday).
Friday:The Grand Tour: European Continental Cuisine Lunch, featuring Wines of Portugal
Garden lunch reception begins at Pebble Beach
appetizers are served on the lawn, Chef Roland Passot’s Salmon Lollipop, w Quinta da Raza, Raza 2011 Vinho Verde
Inside for a seated lunch: Chef Johan Bjorklund’s Cassolette, w Companhia das Quintas, Quinta da Romeira 2011
Duck Charcuterie & Traditional Garnishes by Chef Michael Ginor, w Esparao Reserva 2008
Patisserie Chef Francois Payard
World Class Sommeliers serving at lunch
World Class Sommeliers serving at lunch
Portuguese wines from lunch
Ruinart Private Dinner
Nicolas Ricroque, Chef Michelle Bernstein, and Chef de Caves Frédéric Panaiotis discuss final dinner preparations
welcome with Ruinart Blanc de Blancs
Ragout of spring vegetables, seared foie gras, truffle vegetable nage, served w Dom Ruinart Rosé 1998
beautifully improvised dish of Skatewing w fresh Sea Urchin, Sourdough Bread, paealla, open clams, and fresh peas, served w Dom Ruinart 2002, and 1998
Dom Ruinart Rosé 1990 and 1996
Saturday:
Chef Morimoto Master Cooking Demonstration w Ruinart Champagne
Chef Morimoto and Chef de Caves Panaiotis prepare before the demonstration
the view before hand in the demonstration mirror
Chef Morimoto and Chef de Caves Panaiotis
the event begins. Frédéric Panaiotis introduces Ruinart Champagne
Chef Morimoto gives sushi for Chef de Caves Panaiotis some final touches
the audience excited for pictures after the demonstration
Ridge Monte Bello Panel at Spanish Bay
the view at Spanish Bay
Nine vintage vertical of Monte Bello–1984, 1995, 2006-2012
The Ridge Discussion Panel preparing
2011 and 2012 are still in barrel
Battle of the Coasts: WEST Dinner
beginning with Dom Perignon 2003
Uni by Chef Dominique Crenn, served w Grieve Family Winery 2011 Sauvignon Blanc
Black Cioppino by Chef Thomas McNaughton, served w Clendenen Family Chardonnay “Le Bon Climat” 2008
Red Velvet Cake by Pastry Chef Lincoln Carson, served w Taylor Fladgate Vintage Porto 2003
Sunday:
The Grand Tasting
Pax Mahle pouring Wind Gap Wines
Chris Williams, Brooks Wines
Brooks, Willamette Valley Riesling and Pinot Noir
The Lindt Chef Projector (This image talked about the chocolate while the real her was standing 5-ft away talking about the chocolate. It was a trip.)
Steve Clifton pouring Palmina Wines
***
Thank you to Sarah Logan, and Vanessa Kanegai.
Thank you to Nicolas Ricroque, and Frederic Panaiotis.
Thank you to Mark Stone.
Thank you to Bettye Saxon.
Copyright 2013 all rights reserved. When sharing or forwarding, please attribute to WakawakaWineReviews.com.
A Week with Carla Rzewszewski
I was lucky enough to spend this last week touring California wine with Carla Rzewszewski, Wine Director of The Breslin, The Spotted Pig, and the John Dory Oyster Bar restaurants of New York City. It was all joy.
Her itinerary included a number of other visits besides what’s shown here while I attended different meetings. Here are photos of some we did together.
Visiting Lagier-Meredith
We were lucky enough to start the morning and continue through lunch with Steven Lagier and Carole Meredith. Their wines carry vibrant fruit with a range of flavors. I’m excited about their newly released Zinfandel, the Tribidrag. Carla loved the lush texture and fruit of the Mondeuse.
Mondeuse bud break on top of Mt Veeder
Looking over the Zinfandel and Malbec vines (w an apple tree)
Syrah bud break (i love these vines colors)
Carole Meredith explaining the appellation to Carla, Mt Veeder
Lagier-Meredith rosé of Syrah, Zinfandel, and Mondeuse
the first release of Lagier-Meredith Zinfandel, named with its older name, Tribidrag
2010 and 2003 Syrah side-by-side tasting, with 2010 Mondeuse
Lagier-Meredith 2010 Precious Bane Dessert Wine (brilliant w cheese)
Tasting Massican with Dan Petroski
Dan Petroski was generous enough to taste us on side-by-side vintages of his 2011 Massican whites with the just bottled, not yet released, 2012s, including a brand new Sauvignon Blanc. His whites have a textural quality I love.
To read more on the wines here’s my write up on them from last week: http://wakawakawinereviews.com/2013/03/28/an-early-tasting-of-massican-2012-portfolio-alongside-2011/
Dan Petroski sharing the Massican story with Carla
the Annia white blend, Massican
Massican Chardonnay
the Sauvignons, Massican
Visiting Ridge Monte Bello and Paul Draper
Paul Draper and Christopher Watkins at Ridge Monte Bello were generous enough to host us for the afternoon. It was an incredible time including Rachel (aka. Jr.) and Bodi, Paul’s dog, falling in love, our getting to blind taste and give feedback on the potential 2011 assemblage of the Ridge Bordeaux Estate blend, and a tasting through the recently bottled, not yet released bottlings assembled at the Monte Bello site. What a treat!
Notes on the upcoming portfolio release to follow!
Jr looking down from 2000 ft in elevation at Monte Bello
Christopher Watkins and Carla talking at Monte Bello vineyards
blind tasting the 2011 Ridge Monte Bello and Estate blends to determine final assemblage with Paul Draper and Eric Baugher
the 2011 Monte Bello and Estate blends
walking down into the 1880s limestone cellar at Monte Bello
the upcoming Ridge line-up bottled at Monte Bello (not yet released)
tasting the not-yet-released Monte Bello and Estate Chardonnays side-by-side
tasting two vintages of Monte Bello side-by-side 2010 and 1995
Visiting Varner Vineyards with Jim Varner
At Varner’s Neeley Vineyards Jim Varner introduced us to the 2012 barrel presentations of each of the Chardonnay and Pinot Noir blocks–3 a piece–then tasted us through bottlings of previous vintages. Rachel ended up tasting and advising on the Chardonnays and winning over Jim with her accounts of “a long manchego finish” and “toasty citrus opening.” So, in exchange, he taught her how to climb barrels and use a wine thief. She was thrilled. The wines were beautiful and fascinating.
Jim Varner explaining the Varner vineyards in relation to the surrounding open spaces
looking over the Bee Block (Chardonnay) of Varner Vineyards
Jim Varner showing Jr how to climb barrels and use a wine thief
tasting Varner Three Block 2008 Pinot Noir, 2009 Bee Block Chardonnay, 2010 Amphitheatre Block Chardonnay
Touring old vines with Morgan Twain-Peterson and Chris Cottrell
Morgan Twain-Peterson of Bedrock Vineyards does amazing work helping to preserve old vine vineyards throughout Sonoma County and beyond. He and Chris Cottrell work together to restore neglected sites, and enrich others. Together the two of them took us on a tour of several older vine sites in Sonoma County dating to the 1880s, including the Peterson family’s Bedrock Vineyard, the Old Hill Ranch, which is now managed by Bill Bucklin, and the elevation vineyard Monte Rosso.
Besides unlabeled (not yet released) bottles, old vines are my favorite thing. So beautiful and moving.
Bedrock Vineyard
Bedrock Vineyard is owned and managed by the Peterson family.
Morgan Twain-Peterson telling us about Bedrock Vineyard
standing amidst vines from the 1880s, Carla, Morgan, and Chris
1880s vines, Bedrock Vineyard
Old Hill Ranch
Previously established and maintained by the Hill family, Old Hill Ranch is now loved for incredible old vines, including what sounds to be the oldest Grenache in the state. Bill Bucklin manages, and makes incredible wines from the site. He and his wife, Lizanne, are lovely. They have bees! and chickens!
flowers for the Bucklin family bees at Old Hill Ranch Vineyard
Walking into the vines at Old Hill Ranch with the Bucklins
Grenache from the 1880s, Old Hill Ranch
Will Bucklin explains the oldest Grenache in Sonoma County to Chris and Carla
Monte Rosso Vineyard
Up at 900 ft in elevation the Monte Rosso Vineyard appears after wretched climbing suddenly full of gnarled tree trained vines surrounded by waist high cover crop, encouraged to enrich the soil. The view is unreal. Imagining the toil the Chinese labor and mules no doubt went through to establish the site in the late 1800s is moving.
vines from the 1880s at Monte Rosso Vineyard, 900 ft in elevation
standing in the cover crop next to 1880s Zinfandel, Carla and Morgan
Two wines from the Twain-Peterson Brain Trust
Morgan does good work with old vines–it’s something we need to pay attention to maintaining for the sake of quality in California wine–including make a wealth of them into wine for his label Bedrock. I’m so grateful for what he’s doing.
Joel Peterson, Morgan’s father, stopped me in my tracks with his Ravens Wood 1992 Dickerson Zinfandel. The truth is, I’m a Zinfandel skeptic. If anyone knows what it truly means to be a skeptic, they recognize the genuine skeptic state comes from a sincere love for what is good–the skeptic has high standards and know those can be met.
My love for Zinfandel is so high I only like a small percentage of them. Along with Pinot, it’s one of the over made wines of the world-that is, the most gorgeous examples of wines are made from these grapes, and so are the most over done. The 1992 Ravens Wood drew me back again, and again, and then again another time. I’m so blessed to have had that time with it. Thank you.
we tasted a wealth of Bedrock wines, here their most recent release, an old vine rosé
Looking back to beautiful–the 1992 Ravens Wood Dickerson Zinfandel
Finishing the Week on a Little Boat
To celebrate Carla’s time here, a wealth of her friends in California got together for dinner and wine. We got to taste through a mass of treasured bottles. My daughter started a dance party on the deck before the host could do it himself. I fought through my “there’s a crowd of people” panic attack as I do, and then got back to enjoying myself. And in the midst of it unexpected history appeared…
we tasted a wealth of other wines through the week, the last night included this: 1977 Robert Mondavi Pinot Noir, all porcini, eucalyptus, citrus umami
I love meeting people but the truth is I get uncomfortably shy when I first walk into a party (it will usually go away-ish if I tough it out through that inital “I think I am going to die” discomfort) so, my dear daughter took me outside to sit on the water in a little boat and enjoy a soft rain. I grew up on the water so it always calms me right down.
Life is beautiful.
Carla is so lovely. It was a wonderful week of simply, with simplicity, enjoying what came, then sharing in conversation giving heart, thought, care, and openness to what we shared. It’s always an incredible blessing to have time with a kindred.
***
Thank you to Carole Meredith and Stephen Lagier at Lagier-Meredith.
Thank you to Dan Petroski.
Thank you to Paul Draper, Eric Baugher, and Christopher Watkins at Ridge.
Thank you to Jim Varner.
Thank you to Morgan Twain-Peterson, and Chris Cottrell.
Thank you to Abe Schoener.
Thank you most especially, with love, to Carla. We had such a beautiful time with you. It’s with such gratefulness I discover that we share the world with such a heart as yours.
Copyright 2013 all rights reserved. When sharing or forwarding, please attribute to WakawakaWineReviews.com.
Visiting Flagstaff in March: Mixed Signs of the Season
Jr and I are back in Flagstaff, Arizona visiting friends for her Spring Break. Though I’m born and raised in Alaska, I grew up in Flagstaff. Our lives here included more than seven years with me going from being simply a graduate student of Philosophy at McGill University in Montreal, to becoming a professional philosopher teaching at Northern Arizona University here. It’s been over a year now since I resigned from my position in academia, about nine months since we moved from the Southwest. The thing about Flagstaff? It stays much the same. Nice most of all to be back here with friends.
Per request from some friends and a few readers, tomorrow we’ll be driving South to Cottonwood to taste with AZ Stronghold, and Pillsbury Wines.
Here’s a few photos from walking around town that give you a feel for the place.
Classic Arizona: All Signs Point to the Inessential Drive-Thru Liquor Store
March offers conflicted signs of the season: buds not yet open
Leaves of the bush in colors still turned from Winter frost
What kept me in Flagstaff so long: sky sky blue blue sky. The clarity and high contrast colors of life at elevation
Winter Birch cut against the blue blue sky
Stopping by my friend’s place for an afternoon chat: Caleb Schiff’s Pizzicletta
Walking with Caleb to deliver Pizzicletta’s bread to the local CSA
A town with no snow still ready for winter: it’ll come again soon. It always does.
Visiting another friend’s, Lisa Born, bakery, Sugar Mamas
Their first day open two years ago I bought out all the cupcakes and brought them to campus for the Existentialism class. Sisyphus’s rock is easier with frosting
Flagstaff defined: old shops on Route 66 in view of the Sacred San Francisco Peaks, with a 4×4 truck crossing the trans-continental Railroad line
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Cheers!
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Historic and Quality Wine at Best’s Great Western
The Gold Rush hit Victoria, Australia in the 1850s bringing incredible wealth through the region, as well as increased settlements and immigration. With the larger population other services were also required. Brothers Joseph and Henry Best worked as butchers, supplying meat to the region. However, as the gold supply started to wain, so did the demand for food businesses. Not everyone that rushed for gold stayed.
Joseph and Henry had befriended a French pair, Troutte and Blampied, growing vines sourced from the original Busby collection brought into Australia in 1833 from France and Spain. The Busby collection is considered one of the most diverse, and serious of the various waves of vine imports to the country. Turning to the offer of fate, the Best brothers decided to take up a new industry both to themselves and the region of Great Western. The district had had some small early success in planting vines, but it was not yet thoroughly developed.
In the late 1860s, each brother purchased property on which to root their vines. While Joseph’s vineyards later moved into corporate ownership (a small number of these original vines remain but they are blended in with other wine. Most were pulled for the sake of production levels.), Henry Best’s vineyards remain intact, owned by the same family, the Thompsons, that bought the land originally following Henry’s death in 1920.
In the 1860s, Henry planted 39 varieties over 22 hectares. The types were planted side by side on own roots, and left to discover which would best succeed in the conditions of the Best property. Incredibly, those same plantings exist today in what is known as Best’s Nursery Block. The winery also bottles both a white and red field blend from the Nursery Block, available at the Cellar Door.
8 of the varieties present in the Nursery Block remain unidentified. The Thompson family has allowed genetic samples of the original plantings to be taken in order to accurately name the grape types. However, even with extensive research and genetic matching attempts, eight of the vines remain unknown.
I find these 8 vines mind blowing–no one knows where they originated, or how prevalent they may have been elsewhere when first brought to Australia. They represent a small glimmer into the indiscernible element of wine’s past. The field blend wines from the Nursery Block are both strange and wonderful to taste, offering a lightness of foot while also hard to grasp flavors. In both cases, I enjoyed the delicate while rustic aromas offered through a lighter-side-of-medium bodied wine.
Today genetic researchers still regularly request cuttings and study of the Best’s Nursery Block, as the isolation of the plantings, as well as the integrity they show with age (pre-phylloxera plantings on their own roots) make them a unique library of information.
close up of vines from the 1860s Nursery Block
In 1867 and 1868 the Thompson Family Block was established, fifteen rows of dry farmed, own rooted Shiraz planted in sandy loam. Those plantings exist today and are still bottled, when possible, in a separate Thompson Family Shiraz.
Best also identified what are now known as Dolcetto and Pinot Meunier as appropriate matches to the region. As a result, the vineyards include a block of Pinot Meunier from 1867, also dry farmed. In 1971, cuttings were taken from the Pinot Meunier portion of this block and established as what they now call the “Young Vine” Pinot Meunier vineyard.
Going through the Pinot Meunier block, 15% of the historic vines turn out to be Pinot Noir. In 1868, some of the Pinot Noir was planted in a block now bottled as Best’s “Old Clone.” At the time of planting, the vine was simply understood as an unidentified Burgundian clone.
In 1869, a 12-row block of Dolcetto was also established, though the vine was not well known at the time, today still intact on their own roots as planted. However, the juice from these wines is generally blended with fruit from 1971 plantings established from the original vines.
a glimpse of the 1860s Nursery Block field blend–white in front, red in the distance
By 1870, the Best Vineyard had established 48,000 vines. The Thompson family has worked to preserve the genetic lineage of their unique site in multiple ways. Cuttings have been taken from each of the nursery block plants and established in a new location with the same basic layout. Similarly, young blocks of the original Pinot Meunier and Shiraz have also been established.
The vineyard plantings outside the Nursery Block are known as the Concongella Block, named for the river that neighbors the property. Best’s Great Western Concongella site showcases the characteristics of the region–a more continental climate, considered cool climate, but with warmer days, while still cool nights that allow both a ripeness of flavor and vibrant acidity, also allowing dry farming. The Eucalyptus of the region sneak their flavor into the reds but without being overwhelming. The soils help generate what I think of as melt away tannins–they are present in the mouth, and their effect is sustained on the palate, while being more crumbling than grippy or aggressive. This type of tannin seems characteristic of the Great Western district. 
The Best’s winery site showcases its history as well. An old work building now serves as the tasting room, or cellar door entrance. The facility allows visitors to take a self-directed tour of the historic aspects of the winery as well, many of them still functioning.
In the underground sections older bottles line the walls. The facility includes a complete vintage library going back to 1960.
large size tanks throughout the historic cellars are used for aging reds before release
On the top floor of the historic winery a cap appears in the floor. When you then go downstairs the reason for the cap is revealed. The original cellar housed a massive, rounded room-size fermenter dug into the earth itself. A door has now been cut into the fermenter allowing it to be visible from below (there is no good way to get a picture of it). At the turn of 1800s into the 1900s, wine was made in the room-size fermenter by first lowering a man on a rope through the cap. He would use a large candle to line the entire room with wax. Then the grapes were put directly into the room to ferment in the massive vat underground. Standing inside of it, the room has intensely strange acoustics that make it uncomfortable to remain inside for very long. As a result, the fermenter is now used primarily for storage and display. Guessing, it was at least 20 ft deep, and about 15 ft across.
Inside the fermenter years ago some old bottles were found left there and forgotten about as storage materials. One of these was a 1976 Pinot Meunier made from the 1867 planting, which we were able to open. Later we also drank one from 2002, and tasted from the current vintages of Old Vine (planted in 1878), and Young Vine (planted in 1971) Pinot Meuniers. Pinot Meunier is one of my favorite grapes. These were lovely wines. (Thinking of them makes me feel dreamy.)
Best’s makes a range of wines, but their central focus is on Shiraz. The Bin 1 bottling serves as the labels work horse with the highest production level, and the greatest overall accessibility. It’s a wonderfully juicy, rich flavored wine. The Bin 0 brings together a blend of the older vineyards, including those planted in 1966, and 1970. The Thompson Family bottling is made from the 15 rows originally planted in 1867, when possible. On years when the fruit from these rows is not appropriate for single vineyard bottling it is blended into Bin 0.
The overall quality of Best’s Great Western wines is solid, with a healthy balance between interesting, pleasurable flavors, and fantastic structure. I like the ruggedness that can be found in the older vine bottlings, but the juicy freshness of Bin 1 is impressive and enjoyable. These are well priced, quality wines. It is also a genuine honor to first visit vines of such age and grace, and then drink their wines. Thank you.
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Thank you to Jonathan Mogg and David Fesq.
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Visiting Lethbridge Wine in Geelong
Entering the winery at Lethbridge olive trees welcome you. The hardwood dots the property producing pressable fruit only every other year.
Lethbridge rests in Geelong at the Western reaches of Australia’s Southeastern province, Victoria. The area is aptly called a cool climate, consistently harvesting last among the mainland wine regions.
looking across the Lethbridge vineyards to the house
Together Ray Nadeson and Maree Collis established the Lethbridge Vineyards in 1996. The two both worked as academics in Melbourne at the time, Nadeson doing research and teaching in neuroscience, Collis in biochemistry.
Nadeson had an established love for wine, especially Burgundy. On days off from work, with a friend he would daydream about the idea of getting to make wine himself someday. Over time the brainstorm took hold till Collis and Nadeson together decided to research the possibility. They each completed programs in winemaking and spent time thinking through the principles implicit in a good vineyard site. Nadeson explained that they were determined to invest in a basic understanding of soil science, which led them to recognize the role of rocks in good vineyards around the world.
Ray Nadeson, and Maree Collis began Lethbridge in the 1990s. With the production of Lethbridge Wine having expanded over time, Alex Byrne now also helps with their winemaking.
The couple spent several years searching for their ideal location. They wanted proximity to Melbourne because of their day jobs, soils that would support but challenge the vines, and a cooler location. At the time they were looking, Geelong was primarily ranch land. The area had been a historically important wine region for Australia, with vines planted through the area in the 1870s by Swiss immigrants. But in the early 1900s late 1800s, when phylloxera arrived on the continent, laws were enacted to pull all of the Geelong vineyards out.
To find a suitable site, then, Nadeson and Collis applied their research skills to land maps. They identified the areas within driving distance of the city, then overlaid soil studies and ownership parcels. Finally, after a couple years of looking they zoned in on two potential properties near the town of Lethbridge. The sites weren’t for sale, so they decided to knock on the owners’ door.
Touring the land that would become their Lethbridge Estate, the owner at the time finally asked if the couple could use any old vineyard equipment. He walked them to a tin sided shack from the 1880s full of vineyard and winery materials left there from that century. Nadeson and Collis made an offer and soon after moved onto the land.
Geelong sits in a region also known as the Golden Plains. The area is an old seabed full of limestone, but due to volcanic activity much of it is covered in a top layer of basalt. As a result, few trees show through the district, covered instead by surface crop, thus the grasses and flat land of the moniker.
black basalt soil at the base of the Shiraz vines
The land of Lethbridge falls on a divide with dark basalt soils covering most of the vineyard, cracking in the dry weather of the region, and lighter basalt falling over other parts. (These cracks are impressively deep. As Ray mentioned, you could lose your keys in there.)
honeycomb basalt rocks in the vineyard
The basalt is also dotted throughout with iron stone, or hematite. Only about six inches into the soil honeycomb basalt rocks begin to persistently appear resting atop a field of bluestone, a type of basalt boulder that was also harvested for government buildings in Victoria. Below rests the limestone.
8-year old vines at Lethbridge
The result of the soil and climate combination at Lethbridge includes miniaturized vines, and ultra low yields. The ironstone is palpable on the palate resulting in light bloody notes in the Pinot, and a long ferric finish in the Shiraz. The soil-rock combination of the site also creates impressive tannin structure throughout the varieties grown at Lethbridge. The tannin is assertive without being aggressive or harsh. It’s a structure Nadeson explains he prefers. Lethbridge also hold their top-tier wines several years in bottle before release to help prepare the structure for drinking. As an example, their 2009 Mietta Pinot Noir (grown on the Lethbridge vineyard) is only about to be released.
We tasted an older Merlot-blend that showed far more grip than would be expected from the predominate grape. When I asked Nadeson how much Cabernet he’d blended in (expecting that was the source of the tannin) he told me very little, then walked me out to the Merlot vines. Tasting the fruit of the vine that same tannin is apparent.
Lethbridge’s Mietta Pinot Noir Vines
The structural character of Lethbridge fruit is not only a matter of tannin, however. The cooler climate keeps excellent acidity throughout the wines. The depth of the vine roots, and the character of the soils generate a wonderful tension through the wine as well. It’s the same sort of description Chef de Cave identify as minerality in Champagne–a kind of flavor-muscular stimulation in the mouth. It pulls the flavors of the wine into unified concert with the structure of the wine by stimulating the tongue and creating an echoing tension effect. The flavors resonate, and the structure of the mouth literally responds long down the throat.
Lethbridge produces three tiers of wine. The Allegra Chardonnay, Mietta Pinot Noir, Indra Shiraz, and Hugo George Super Tuscan represent their top level wines, all meant to age and are held in bottle for several years before release. We were able to taste multiple vintages going back to the first on each of these wines. They carry a smart progression of drinking nicely on the older vintages while still showing greater focus and clarity on the newer ones–the sign of an evolving while consistent winemaker. I especially liked the Allegra Chardonnays. They offer that pulpy texture of just biting into fresh orchard fruit, while carrying a mix of citrus and light apricot flavors touched by a focusing line of reductive character. Impressively, the 2004 and 2005 were brilliant right now.
Lethbridge’s midlevel label, the Estate bottlings, offer still generously flavored and structured wines, that drink a little sooner and still do well with age. Where the upper tier wines are very structurally focused, the estate bottlings come in comparatively more relaxed line. Compared to the Indra, the Estate Shiraz offers a more approachable style that is still definitively Geelong for its distant desert spice and wound lines, for example.
The Menage label represents their younger, most affordable line, with a juicy Pinot Noir as the real show piece. Lethbridge also revels in trying various new projects alongside their central themes. We were able to taste a range of one-offs and side bottlings that show the playful side of the winemakers. My favorite of these was their Riesling and dessert Rieslings–brilliant acidity throughout.
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post-edit: I originally said early 1900s for the arrival of phylloxera, but it came over in botany samples in the late 1800s. The response was to enact vine pull laws through parts of Victoria in an attempt to protect other areas with vines. If you’d like to read more on this history here is a nice post from Gonna Warra Vineyards: http://www.goonawarra.com.au/a-taste-of-history
The blog Betty’s Wine Musings briefly mentions something I’d been told while traveling through Victoria, that the vine pull scheme was likely motivated by more political reasons than scientific need. Her post can be found here: http://www.bettyswinemusings.com/australian-wines-from-devastation-to-deluge
Also, Australian wine writer, Max Allen, wrote to clarify that while Geelong is a cool climate, and does start among the last for mainland harvest, other areas in mainland Australia can harvest later. Here’s what he had to say in email:
“Geelong is definitely a cooler climate wine region, yes, but there are quite
a few others on the mainland that consistently harvest later (or at least
consistently finish harvesting later) – Orange, 1000 metres up on the slopes
of an old volcano in New South Wales, for example, and Henty, further out in
the widescreen country of southwest Victoria …”
Thanks for the information, Max. Always glad to get more clarification!
If you’d like to read more about Orange, here’s a good start from the Vignerons of the region: http://www.winesoforange.com.au/
And to read more about Henty, here’s a start from the Wine Diva website: http://www.winediva.com.au/regions/henty.asp
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Thank you to Ray Nadeson and Maree Collis for hosting me. Thank you to Alex Byrne. Thank you to David Fesq. I very much enjoyed my time at Lethbridge and appreciate the generosity you showed. Thank you.
Copyright 2013 all rights reserved. When sharing or forwarding, please attribute to WakawakaWineReviews.com.
