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magazine article


World of Fine Wine Feature: Strange Synchronicity

Look! That’s me there featured on the cover! 

World of Fine Wine Issue 49

A peculiar thing happens for those of us who spend all our time tasting with winemakers: The wines begin to taste like the personality of the man or woman in front of us. It’s a strange moment to find synchronicity between the character of the wine and that of the winemaker, but there it is. More often than not, they match. “That’s why I love Burlotto wines,” Ceri Smith tells me. Together we are drinking, and talking, Italian wine. She’s begun to tell me about the work of winemaker Fabio Alessandria of Piedmont’s GB Burlotto, and to compare his wines to his personality.

Ceri Smith owns the respected Italian-focused wine shop Biondivino in San Francisco and she created the wine list at the reboot for famed Italian restaurant Tosca, in the same city. In her decades of work with Italian wine, Smith has gotten to know a range of Italy’s best winemakers.

She continues describing Alessandria’s character, and his work in wine. “Fabio is quiet, shy, and introverted, and his wines are these beautiful floral expressions. They feel just like Fabio: quiet, delicate, and strong.”

Later, viticulturist and winemaker Steve Matthiasson describes a similar experience. Matthiasson manages esteemed sites throughout Napa Valley such as Araujo, Chappellet, and Trefethen, while also making wine for his own eponymous label.

As Matthiasson explains, several years ago a group of Napa Valley winemakers were able to taste a range of wines from Burgundy with the Domain de la Romanée-Conti co-gérant and winemaker Aubert de Villaine. The group had gathered a series of paired wines. Each pair was made from the same vineyard but by two different winemakers. De Villaine knew the sites and the winemakers well. Throughout the tasting, Matthiasson relates, the wines from each vineyard set would share some core flavor commonalities but have a starkly different sense of character. One wine would seem flamboyant and lush compared to its sibling’s reserved austerity. One wine would feel edgy and intellectual, while the other was more immediately pleasurable. Tasting through all the wines, Matthiasson says, de Villaine consistently explained the contrast between the paired wines with reference to the personality of the winemakers. The flamboyant wine always matched the effusive winemaker; the reserved wine, the more reticent one.

This experience occurs with American wines as well. In one of my strangest tasting experiences, I tasted a California Tempranillo from a winemaker I’d never met and knew nothing about and discussed the wine with her assistant. While tasting the wine, I described aloud what I saw as the character of the wine. It drank with a sense of sophistication and rusticity simultaneously. I said, “as if she’d been raised in a fine family with all the lessons of etiquette but in adulthood went on to become a rancher.” In describing the wine, I was speaking of if like a person. I went on, “She still carries herself well in a dress but works hard in the dusty outside.” Looking up from the glass, I realized the assistant had fallen quiet. He explained that the winemaker had been raised in an upper-class family in the southern United States and then moved to California to grow grapes in the Sierra Foothills. Though the winemaker wasn’t a rancher, she did spend all her time farming grapes in the dusty mountains. The similarity of my description of the wine with the winemaker’s life stunned both of us.

It seems unlikely that a science of personality in winemaking could ever develop. Go too far, and it starts to sound like blind tasting winemaker personalities, or the vague generalities of horoscopes. Even so, such strange synchronicity often occurs. So, let us begin to explore the phenomenon. And to start, let’s consider how personality develops. …

To continue reading this article you’ll need to pick up a print or electronic copy of Issue 49, September 2015, of World of Fine Wine.

I couldn’t be more thrilled than by being the cover feature for an issue of this magazine. My admiration for it runs deep. It’s a must have subscription for any passionate wine lover, regularly showcasing writing from the finest wine writers in the world including Andrew Jeffords, Hugh Johnson, Jancis Robinson, Jasper Morris and others. The magazine also strives to seek out and find fresh new voices. Additionally, the magazine reviews fine wine from around the world via a multi-taster panel. The advantage of this rests in its multiple perspectives. The tasting panels print reviews from each of the (usually three or four) tasters so that you can get a more in-depth view of each wine from three differing, respected palates. If you’re interested in high quality long-form wine writing taking in-depth profiles of region’s and producers, plus regular reflections on wine like mine on personality and craft in winemaking, look into subscribing. Here’s the info. 

The cost of subscription is not inexpensive, but the mass of writing you get, the independent reporting and tasting, is comparable to none.

To subscribe electronically: https://itunes.apple.com/gb/app/world-fine-wine-magazine/id894045101?mt=8

To subscribe in print: http://finewinemag.subscribeonline.co.uk/print-subscriptions/finewine

You can also purchase individual issues singly: http://finewinemag.subscribeonline.co.uk/back-issue



Alquimie: Breathing New Life Into Drinks

Alquimie Magazine

Australia’s Alquimie almost immediately became one of my favorite drinks magazines when it launched in 2013. A year later, they were already up for awards celebrating them as among the best magazines of Australia.

The journal goes in depth into the world of wine, spirits, and morning drinks with a regular accent on food (baguettes appear in the current release).

Best of all, the focus remains on quality writing and gorgeous photography. Editor Josh Elias asks his contributors to only write on what they truly love, what fascinates them. It’s easy to deliver quality work under those conditions.

Alquimie ships internationally (which is how I get it), and has free shipping in Australia right now. So, if you haven’t checked it out yet, I recommend it.

Here’s the link: https://alquimie.com.au

Alquimie Edition 5 + an article on Dirk Niepoort

Dirk Niepoort Article Preview

preview + cover images courtesy of Alquimie

In September 2014, Dirk Niepoort let me follow him through four days of harvest in the Douro. We took side trips north to Vinho Verde and checked in on his consulting projects as well. The experience was transformative for me. I fell in love with Portugal.

In Alquimie Edition 5, I’ve written and illustrated a small glimpse of the experience looking at the progression of Niepoort’s work as a winemaker, and specifically at his most recent vintages. The article is also illustrated by my interpretations of four of his wines. I’m thrilled to appear in a magazine I admire so much.

Also in Edition 5 are in depth looks at the Rhone Valley, Mexico’s mescal, and aperitifs. The issue starts shipping this coming week.

Interested in purchasing a single issue, or subscribing to Alquimie?

Here’s the link: https://alquimie.com.au/shop/

Check it out!



Visiting Nonino, Tasting Grappa and Amaro

As some of you know, I was on a recent press trip to Italy. Part of the activity was spending a day with the Nonino family exploring their distillery and vineyards, as well as tasting through their impressive collection of grappa and amaro.

I just wrote up the visit with a behind the scenes slide show over at Serious Eats.

Nonino at Serious Eats

Check it out here: http://drinks.seriouseats.com/2013/10/behind-the-scenes-nonino-grappa-distillery-how-grappa-is-made-grapes-friuli-italy-amaro.html