Hawk Wakawaka Wine Reviews

Return to California 12: Enrico Bertoz and Arbe Garbe

-

Jul 25, 2012

Fruili-inspired Whites in California: Enrico Bertoz, and Arbe Garbe

Starting in the Central Valley of California, Enrico Bertoz kept moving North looking for the perfect place to make his wines. He found the sandy loam of the Russian River Valley, and stuck, beginning his label, Arbe Garbe. The focus is on a name sake white blend, with single grape varietals that showcase the best of the vintage.

the new 2011 labels–this photo is the first public viewing of them, designed by Enrico Bertoz

the tasting line up–2009 Ribolla Gialla, four vintages of Arbe Garbe (2009–2011), and 2011 Malvasia

four vintages of Arbe Garbe–2008, 2009, 2010, 2011. 2007 was the first, but it is no longer available for tasting. The Arbe Garbe blend is modeled after a Bianco style wine in Friuli–blending of white grapes changing depending on the vintage.The 2008, 40% Pinot Bianco, 50% Malvasia Bianca, 10% Viognier with flavors and bouquet of light beeswax, hints of dark nuts, toasted bread, and a zippy salinity. 14.5% alcohol.

the grapes that go into the Arbe Garbe blend are primarily from the Russian River Valley, though 2009 also included Ribolla Gialla from Vare’s Napa vineyard. The 2009 carried 85% Pinot Grigio, and equal portions Ribolla Gialla and Friulano. (the Malvasia Bianca was fried that year do to high heat late in the season.) The 2009 presentation carries a pickled lemon palate (pleasing salt with citrus), with a slightly smokey nose showing almost mackerel fishy notes–that is fatty sea fresh elements (again, this is pleasing)–and light beeswax plus incense, alongside citrus blossom and nut. This is a rich rendition of the blend. I love this vintage. 14.5% alcohol.

the 2010 vintage presents 50% Pinot Grigio, 40% Malvasia Bianca, and 10% Ribolla Gialla–the Ribolla Gialla with 36 hours of skin contact. The wine showcases the textural elements of the phenolic Ribolla Gialla, with the fragrant nose of the Malvasia Bianca. There is a pleasing salinity in the palate alongside the richness of nut skins, freshness of citrus blossom, and good acidity with a tickle-y mouthfeel. 14.3% alcohol.

2009 was a good vintage for Ribolla Gialla in Napa Valley. Getting excited about the quality of the fruit, Enrico Bertoz chose to do a single varietal bottling of the grape. This is a wonderful white with a nose of light wax, saline, and light citrus, showcasing a very active mouth and nice palate of warm wax, fresh citrus, and aged nut, plus the wonderful structure of Ribolla. 14.5% alcohol.

Enrico explains that he is able to make his wines thanks to the help of many others, including his meticulous and open minded vineyard owner and manager.

Return to California 11: Time with Jim Moore, Uvaggio, and Il Ponte fra due Terre

Hawk Wakawaka

-

Jul 23, 2012

1

Talking with Jim Moore

Ma(i)sonry in Yountville is a combined space–an art gallery and wine bar plus shop. The business features wine flights of quality local wines selected by the owner. He likes and so also pours Uvaggio.

Jim Moore has worked in Napa Valley, and California wine for three decades. After almost 20 years with Mondavi, he decided to focus on developing his own label, l’Uvaggio di Giacomo–Uvaggio. I admire the concept–the idea is to make the best quality wines possible while keeping the price under $20, all directed at enjoying with food. It works.

We taste through the entire 2010 portfolio, beginning with two whites–Vermentino, and Moscato [Giallo] secco. The Vermentino offers vibrant aromatics, and a crisp mouthfeel with good acidity. I enjoy drinking this wine. The Moscato is a Moscato Giallo with a combination of nutty and light tropical fruit and bloom. Both wines very clean.

To help keep costs down, Moore walks the vineyard sites doing the quality selections in advance of the harvest crew. Then they can move through picking what’s left quickly. Growing in Lodi allows a focus on Italian varieties that need warmer temperatures, and a lower land cost as well. The Rosato carries a blend of Primitivo, Barbera, and Vermentino offering rich aromatics, and good acidity with just enough weight to be a complement for food and refreshing. It’s lively in the mouth.

The perfect pizza wine. Going into the Uvaggio tasting I wasn’t sure what to expect–I wanted to taste Italian variety focused wines from California, and I was interested in Moore’s overall concept but didn’t know how well the quality would hold. The Primitivo was my surprise wine. It’s got a juicy (not at all jammy) core, with just enough heat and weight while being dance-y in the mouth. Of the portfolio the Primitivo was the one that most impressed me for hitting good value.

Another good value, for a little more texture with still well done flavor presentation–the Barbera. Good for meats. I love meats.

The best part of the project? The wines are good, good value, and Moore clearly enjoys what he’s doing.

Moore shared two wines from an earlier face of the label as well–l’Uvaggio’s, Il Ponte fra due Terre. First, a 2000 Sangiovese,

then, a 3-vintage blend Vin Santo style wine, both part of the Chez Panisse wine list following their release.

Write-up to follow.

Thank you to Jim Moore for taking time to meet with me, and for selecting both the Uvaggio, and the Il Ponte wines for us to taste. I enjoyed talking with you.

Thank you to Dan Fredman.

Return to California 10: Meeting Stu Smith at Smith-Madrone on Spring Mountain

Hawk Wakawaka

-

Jul 22, 2012

3

Touring Smith-Madrone

Smith-Madrone sits at the top of Spring Mountain with the vineyards planted between 1300 and 2000 feet elevation, started by Stuart Smith in 1971, owned and run with brother Charles Smith.

Stu Smith

The vineyards are surrounded by and planted within the forest and rely on sustainable farming practices.

In the center of the vineyard stands an alley of olive trees over a hundred years old. When Stu Smith first located what would become the Smith-Madrone vineyards the property was fully forested and difficult to walk in most places. In the midst of his hike over the hills he looked down and saw grape stakes at the base of trees–the forest had reclaimed an old vineyard. He realized the area had been a vineyard pre-prohibition and so would likely do well supporting vines again. In clearing the forest to get ready for planting he discovered two perfect rows of olive trees surrounded by fir. (note: the original caption had stated that is was old vine canes. This has been corrected.)

The chardonnay leaf has five distinct veins, with the bottom two naked to the bottom of the leaf–this is known as them being “naked to the basal vein.” It has a closed shaped much like a maple.

The veins of Cabernet Sauvignon leaves are also naked to the basal vein, and the over all leaf shape includes looping in towards the center of the leaf not seen in the more closed shape of Chardonnay. (note: there is a correction here from the original caption of this image. Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon are the two varieties that exhibit this ‘naked to the basal vein’ characteristic. In this image the vein to the right above Stu Smith’s finger shows as the lower most boundary of the leaf–this is the characteristic “naked to the basal vein.” The vein to the left, on the other hand, is embedded within the body of the leaf. Thank you to Stu Smith for clarifying this point.)

Thanks to the shape of the individual leaves, Cabernet plants develop a lacy appearance in the canopy.

Smith-Madrone is known for Riesling, Chardonnay, and Cabernet Sauvignon–all wines made entirely from grapes grown on the property, with brothers Charles and Stu managing all vineyard care and wine making. The Riesling vertical reveals the effects of three of the most difficult vintages seen in Napa valley in a long time–focused, crisp, light petrol notes on citrus and bloom all, the 2009 the most earthy of the three. The 2010, my favorite, showing ultra clean, the earthy notes well integrated. 2011 tastes as slightly sweeter (this is a dry style wine) due not to any increase in residual sugar, but instead to different proportions in the wine itself. The 2011 has slightly lower acidity.

The 2009 Chardonnay brings together the flavoral richness of California with the structural focus and minerality of a French offering. The Smith brothers goal in wine making “is to get the vintage into the bottle.”

We were also able to taste Cabernet, and Cabernet Reserve, but at a moment when I didn’t have my camera.

Thank you to Stu Smith for hosting me at Smith-Madrone.

Thank you to Julie Ann Kodmur.

Hi to Charlotte!

Return to California 9: Webster Marquez: Anthill Farms, Bluxome Street Winery, C. Donatiello

Hawk Wakawaka

-

Jul 21, 2012

0

Tasting with Webster Marquez

Webster Marquez met me at Bluxome Street Winery in downtown San Francisco to taste from three labels through which he makes wine–Anthill Farms, which he started with two of his wine maker friends, Bluxome Street Wines, which he consults for, and C. Donatiello, for whom he serves as wine maker. All three labels, beautiful wines.

Write-up to follow.

Thank you to Webster Marquez for taking time to meet with me. (I love your dog too.)

Thank you to Dan Petroski.

Return to California 8: Meeting Cathy Corison

Hawk Wakawaka

-

Jul 20, 2012

3

Visiting Corison Vineyards

vibrantly flavored and light hearted, crisp, dance-y Gewurztraminer

a 41-year old vine of St. George woodstock Cabernet Sauvignon; the vines are grafted with clones 7 & 8

the vines offer 1.5 tons of juice per acre; intensely low yield

Corison has 8 acres contiguous to the winery, vines replaced one at a time when needed, rather than by block

in the midst of my visit, Cathy discovered the first berries to turn purple–veraison has started, and early. Once veraison begins the berries do not increase in size. They simply ripen.

St. George is notorious for not setting well so that you end up with scraggy bunches of fruit. That is, the woodstock impacts how the clusters on the 7 & 8 clones produce fruit. It also leads to tiny berries (part of the low yield), and so the crusher must be run slowly to avoid getting stuck. the stems are also large in relation to the fruit. These are all elements that lead to wonderful concentration, and range of flavor in the juice, even if very little juice. Cathy and I discuss the advantages of growing a plant that is naturally low yield rather than a plant that must be cut back to be low yield–there is a difference in flavor profile she appreciates. But it is also about letting the plant do that work, rather than the person intervening.

“I came to Napa. I had no money or work. I don’t know what I thought I’d live on. I can’t explain it. I just felt as if there was a wine inside me that needed to get out. So, instead of cars and houses, I bought grapes and barrels.”

Corison Vineyards have had 17 years of organic farming on loam soils. Cathy has been making wine from the same site, the same fruit, for 25 years. Her goal is to make the wine in a consistent style from year to year so that what you’re tasting is vintage specificity on a wine that shows the strength of Cabernet Sauvignon in an elegant presentation.

view of the vineyard from upstairs

Rosé-Saignee from Cabernet Sauvignon. This is a wine that offers the sprightly freshness of summer with the fascination of Cabernet herbaceousness and fruit.

A vertical of Corison Napa Valley Cabernet–2004, 2003, 2001

Jon Bonné of the SF Chronicle recognized Cathy Corison as the 2011 Wine Maker of the Year.

a darker, more tannic presentation of the Corison Cabernet from Kronos Vineyards–2006, 2000

Cathy Corison was kind enough to invite me to meet with her at her winery, and vineyard. Her wines are the epitome of elegant Cabernet–really beautiful.

Write-up to follow.

Thank you to Cathy for having me.

Thank you to Hardy Wallace.

Attending Ribolla Gialla University, Part 3: Friuli Fest 2012, Ribolla Gialla Tasting and Discussion

Hawk Wakawaka

-

Jul 19, 2012

12

Friuli Fest 2012, Hosted by Steve and Jill Klein Matthiasson

Steve and Jill Klein Matthiasson

Ryan Glaab, and his 7-month old son

Abe Schoener

Johanna Jensen

George Vare and Steve Matthiasson

Robbie Meyer

Matthew Rorick

me, baby Glaab, Randall Grahm, George Vare, Abe Schoener

Erin Meyers

Dan Petroski

Megan and Ryan Glaab

George Vare’s sparkling Ribolla Gialla

Enrico Bertoz and George Vare

***
Thank you to Steve and Jill Mathiasson for hosting, and presenting!

Thank you to Robbie Meyer, Dan Petroski, Matthew Rorick, Ryan and Megan Glaab for presenting, and sharing your wines. Thank you too to Arnot-Roberts, and your lovely wife, Erin, for sharing your wines.

Thank you to George Vare.

More from Ribolla Gialla University on the way–information on California Ribolla Gialla producers. In the meantime, enjoy these other entries from RGU:

Attending Ribolla Gialla University, Part 1: http://wakawakawinereviews.com/2012/07/19/attending-ribolla-gialla-university-part-1-meeting-george-vare/

Attending Ribolla Gialla University, Part 2: http://wakawakawinereviews.com/2012/07/19/attending-ribolla-gialla-university-part-2-a-life-in-wine-george-vare-friuli-and-slovenia/

Attending Ribolla Gialla University, Part 4: Harvest of the George Vare Vineyard with Steve Matthiasson: http://wakawakawinereviews.com/2012/09/14/attending-ribolla-gialla-university-part-4-harvest-of-the-george-vare-vineyard-with-steve-matthiasson/

Attending Ribolla Gialla University, Part 5: Russian River Valley Ribolla Gialla, The Bowland’s Tanya Vineyard: http://wakawakawinereviews.com/2012/09/29/attending-ribolla-gialla-university-part-5-russian-river-valley-ribolla-gialla/

Attending Ribollat Gialla University, Part 6: The Vare Vineyard Tasting, Arlequin Wine Merchant: http://wakawakawinereviews.com/2013/04/23/attending-ribolla-gialla-university-part-6-the-vare-vineyard-tasting-arlequin-wine-merchant/

Attending Ribolla Gialla University, Part 7: The Matthiasson Vineyard, Napa: http://wakawakawinereviews.com/2013/05/01/attending-ribolla-gialla-university-part-7-the-matthiasson-vineyard-napa/

Attending Ribolla Gialla University, Part 2: (A Life in Wine) George Vare, Friuli, and Slovenia

Hawk Wakawaka

-

Jul 19, 2012

15

Bringing Ribolla Gialla to California

“I had started Luna with John Kongsgaard as the first wine maker, and John said to me, ‘Let’s go to Europe and find the holy grail of Pinot Grigio.’ Our first crush of Pinot Grigio was in 1997. So, we went to Alsace, and loved the wines. But it was not for Napa–not like our soils, or our environment. So, then we went to Alto Adige, in the North of Italy, but there it was too cold. We ended up in Friuli. The area is different, but more akin to Napa. Then our very last appointment before we were leaving we met Stanislao Radikion. It was 7:30 at night and we stayed till after 1:30 in the morning, leaving Italy the next day.

“John and Stanislao hit it off in terms of wine making–whole cluster press, barrel fermentation, natural yeast. So, in 1997 we started going to Friuli. We’d bottle our wine, then bring it to our friends in Friuli. It afforded us expanding our friendships there, and deepening them. We’d share our wine and say, ‘okay, give us our grades.’

“After a few years, we were tasting different wines there and I fell in love with Ribolla Gialla. We were close with Josko Gravner. So, I came back to the states and looked, but then you couldn’t find any Ribolla Gialla. We had planted some Pinot Grigio for Luna here around the house. But it didn’t take. So, in 1999 we put in Ribolla Gialla. Then in 2000 we grafted another acre. So, now we have two and a half acres of Ribolla Gialla.

“I took the Ribolla Gialla back to Luna. But by then it had started getting more mainstream, and I thought this is ridiculous. So I started making Ribolla Gialla myself, and bottled it under my own label–Vare.

“We expanded our friend base from Friuli, and started having friends in Slovenia too. Ribolla Gialla is a very tannic white, one of the most tannic, I believe. It is a fabulous blending grape. It has a lot of body. You can blend it up to 50% with another varietal, and it will retain the flavor of the other varietal while adding the body of Ribolla Gialla. Then the wine has interesting character.

“Here in California now there are eight different wineries that use Ribolla Gialla either as a varietal or blend. On one of our trips to Friuli we were with Gravner and in the corner there was a barrel with a clear side. You could see into the barrel. He brought me over and said it was full of Ribolla Gialla that had been in there on skins for over a year. I thought, this is going to be a god awful mess but it was phenomenal. So, we came back and we made it.

“One year we had too much Ribolla Gialla so we decided to try a dessert wine. We hung it out in the vineyard and it became a moldy mess. It didn’t work. Another year we decided to try a bubbly Ribolla Gialla. Friuli doesn’t make it sparkling. But I asked a friend and he told me in Slovenia they do. There they make it 50% Chardonnay, 50% Ribolla Gialla. So, I spoke with Bobby from Langevin. He makes the best chardonnay in California, in my opinion. He wanted to try sparkling chardonnay but didn’t have the equipment. So I told him I could make it here and traded him for chardonnay. I made it both ways, one all Ribolla Gialla, and one 50/50 with Chardonnay. It is completely dry because it is not disgorged. We had fun with it.

“Now, Aleks Simcic, my mentor in Slovenia. When we first met he told me that the grape requires skin contact. I said, how much? And he said, it depends on the year. Oh, that’s helpful. So, we made eight different lots, each with a different amount of skin contact. One whole cluster. One 24 hours soaking. One 48 hours soaking. Then another we just put the crush right into the press. We tasted all of them, and the 48 hours was our fav. and the crush on the press was almost the same. It seems to work beautifully for skin contact. So, from then on we used the crush on the press. Robbie up in Calistoga though has no crusher. So, he pressed the fruit. The skins were still in the press and he just poured the juice back in. Enrico Bertoz did it that was too for two years. It worked.

“I don’t really sell commercially anymore. I used to particularly in New York City. But I didn’t want to travel it around to sell anymore. So, now I really only sell to the French Laundry. Their Sommelier came over to help with blends one time and he said, ‘George, if you can make these in 500 ml I’ll buy all of it.’ I said, done! That’s how I got into 500 ml.

“I wanted to plant more Ribolla Gialla but vineyard land here hasn’t come down so it’s not economically viable to expand it.

“Somehow Randall Grahm got interested in Ribolla Gialla so he tracked me down and we talked on the phone. Then he came up here and we had lunch. He told me he has a big experimental vineyard spot so I gave him cuttings enough for 10 acres. I figured, Randall is the best marketer of wine anywhere, so wouldn’t it be great if he made a name for it? Then there is always room for a high end version from up here.

“As you know, wine in Friuli is part of every meal. It is the most wonderful food wine I know. Probably partly because of the tannin.

“I personally believe some producers in California are doing really unique things. Now that the bloom is off big overripe California wines, these people are starting to get attention. That is the future of the wine industry, and I love supporting that.”

***

Thank you to George Vare.

Attending Ribolla Gialla University, Part 1: Meeting George Vare: http://wakawakawinereviews.com/2012/07/19/attending-ribolla-gialla-university-part-1-meeting-george-vare/

Attending Ribolla Gialla University, Part 3: http://wakawakawinereviews.com/2012/07/19/attending-ribolla-gialla-university-part-3-friuli-fest-2012-ribolla-gialla-tasting-and-discussion/

Attending Ribolla Gialla University, Part 4: Harvest of the George Vare Vineyard with Steve Matthiasson: http://wakawakawinereviews.com/2012/09/14/attending-ribolla-gialla-university-part-4-harvest-of-the-george-vare-vineyard-with-steve-matthiasson/

Attending Ribolla Gialla University, Part 5: Russian River Valley Ribolla Gialla, The Bowland’s Tanya Vineyard: http://wakawakawinereviews.com/2012/09/29/attending-ribolla-gialla-university-part-5-russian-river-valley-ribolla-gialla/

Attending Ribollat Gialla University, Part 6: The Vare Vineyard Tasting, Arlequin Wine Merchant: http://wakawakawinereviews.com/2013/04/23/attending-ribolla-gialla-university-part-6-the-vare-vineyard-tasting-arlequin-wine-merchant/

Attending Ribolla Gialla University, Part 7: The Matthiasson Vineyard, Napa: http://wakawakawinereviews.com/2013/05/01/attending-ribolla-gialla-university-part-7-the-matthiasson-vineyard-napa/

Attending Ribolla Gialla University, Part 1: Meeting George Vare

Hawk Wakawaka

-

Jul 19, 2012

11

Thank you to Eric Asimov for mentioning this post in the July 20, 2012 edition of The New York Times, Diner’s Journal “What We’re Reading.”

***

Meeting George Vare

“Go make Ribolla Gialla popular.” –George Vare

the berries turn a full rich yellow at ripeness.

the first vintage with consistent berries.

the plant carries a virus that causes the leaves to yellow under stress.

barrel with a window

Ribolla Gialla left on skins for 1-year, then barrel aged for 3

a gift to take home, hand labeled and capped by George Vare

Ribolla Gialla with 48 hour skin contact

sparkling Ribolla Gialla that has not been disgorged

we’ll drink it at the Ribolla Gialla party

an earlier vintage

Friuli style white: Sauvignon Blanc, Tocai Friulano, Chardonnay, Ribolla Gialla

This is why I came back to Napa Valley so quickly.

Because in doing so I could talk to more people about George Vare. I’ve made my visit about so much more than just this one lucky meeting, so much more I love to do. But I came back now so I could meet more people that had worked with Vare, never presuming to ask if I could meet him too. Then, it turned out a meeting was arranged, and I got to hear his story, walk through his 2.5 acre Ribolla Gialla vineyard (the only one producing fruit in California, there are other plantings–more on that to follow), and taste his wines too. Here are photos from the visit. Write up to follow, along with photos from a grand Ribolla Gialla tasting here in Napa Valley.

***

Thank you to George Vare.

Thank you to Dan Petroski.

Attending Ribolla Gialla University, Part 2: http://wakawakawinereviews.com/2012/07/19/attending-ribolla-gialla-university-part-2-a-life-in-wine-george-vare-friuli-and-slovenia/

Attending Ribolla Gialla University, Part 3: http://wakawakawinereviews.com/2012/07/19/attending-ribolla-gialla-university-part-3-friuli-fest-2012-ribolla-gialla-tasting-and-discussion/

Attending Ribolla Gialla University, Part 4: Harvest of the George Vare Vineyard with Steve Matthiasson: http://wakawakawinereviews.com/2012/09/14/attending-ribolla-gialla-university-part-4-harvest-of-the-george-vare-vineyard-with-steve-matthiasson/

Attending Ribolla Gialla University, Part 5: Russian River Valley Ribolla Gialla, The Bowland’s Tanya Vineyard: http://wakawakawinereviews.com/2012/09/29/attending-ribolla-gialla-university-part-5-russian-river-valley-ribolla-gialla/

Attending Ribollat Gialla University, Part 6: The Vare Vineyard Tasting, Arlequin Wine Merchant: http://wakawakawinereviews.com/2013/04/23/attending-ribolla-gialla-university-part-6-the-vare-vineyard-tasting-arlequin-wine-merchant/

Attending Ribolla Gialla University, Part 7: The Matthiasson Vineyard, Napa: http://wakawakawinereviews.com/2013/05/01/attending-ribolla-gialla-university-part-7-the-matthiasson-vineyard-napa/

Return to California 7: Castello di Amorosa

Hawk Wakawaka

-

Jul 18, 2012

1

Touring the Castle and Tasting the Wines of Castello di Amaroso

Dario Sattui’s family had been making wine in California back in the 1800s, but, after a few generations, prohibition hit and the wine making industry through the state was largely lost. A fan of Medieval Italian history and architecture, Dario Sattui grew up to begin the well-established Napa Valley winery, V. Sattui. With its success, Sattui decided to fulfill a dream–a recognition of both his family history and his own love of Italy. After more than fifteen years of planning, design, and material scouting, Castello di Amorosa was born–a castle in the hills of Calistoga made with bricks of the Hapsburg Dynasty brought from Europe. Wines sold 100% direct to consumer. I admire the total dedication Sattui channeled into the building–full commitment to fulfilling a dream. Jim Sullivan was kind enough to give me a tour, and, with Assistant wine maker Peter Velleno, taste me through their Italian variety portfolio.

Thank you to Jim Sullivan, and Peter Velleno.

Thank you to Julie Ann Kodmur.

Return to California 6: Donelan Wines

Hawk Wakawaka

-

Jul 18, 2012

2

Donelan Wines with Tyler Thomas

This morning I was lucky enough to spend with Tyler Thomas, the wine maker of Donelan wines in Santa Rosa. We talked for several hours about wine, philosophy, existentialism, wine science, vineyard science, and art. All mixed in with a portfolio of good quality wines that I enjoy drinking. I told Tyler it was the perfect combination of just enough geeking out (he even talked me through a thought experiment he did to sort out temperature effects on two different vineyard sites), just enough appreciation for the mystery, and both paired up with pleasurable wines–pretty perfect. We even touched on ideas of faith and spirituality, and their intertwined relation to science and analytics.

Write up to follow.

Thank you for taking time to meet with me and taste me through your wine, Tyler.

Thank you Dan Petroski for making the introduction.

Share Wakawaka!

Share Wakawaka!

Share Wakawaka!

Share Wakawaka!

Share Wakawaka!

Share Wakawaka!

Share Wakawaka!

Share Wakawaka!

Share Wakawaka!

Share Wakawaka!