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Opening Space for Complexity and Experience: Eric Asimov’s HOW TO LOVE WINE, A Book Review

Eric Asimov’s “How to Love Wine”

My copy of Eric Asimov’s How to Love Wine: A Memoir and Manifesto has already been filled with folded down corners and marks on pertinent sections. The pencil appears where he shares ideas I want to reflect on further–like his consideration that a great wine moves in “a fragile ambiguity” offering experiences of doubt and tension (48). The dog ears hover over moments of prose I find enticing and beautiful. There is a sort of almost incongruity in this, as Asimov’s writing here focuses on a central thesis–wine is for ease and pleasure. Along with that thesis, is a common refrain recommending we move away from the tasting note culture of wine, in which apparently objective analysis seems to bear down on bottles, and to instead drink wine as integral to a culture of enjoyment. For me to mark the text, then, as an academic would, with notes of professional analysis, might seem to avoid Asimov’s point. The ultimate conclusion Asimov offers, however, supports that there is no one right style of wine, and no one right answer on what should be enjoyed. (There are some recommendations on how to enjoy it–over time, with a meal, etc., but not a limitation on those possible ways.) It is instead, simply, that if we wish, we should feel free to go ahead and love wine.

Asimov’s book brings together the journalistic tone we know of him already from his regular writing in The New York Times, with personal stories in which he invites us into some of the intimate moments that changed his view of wine. I found myself charmed at the flow of these remembrances, feeling for the younger Asimov that revels in the joy of discovering the power of a meal, that is, “the sum total of the event” (107)–the place, the mood, the food, the place settings, the wine. And especially for the Asimov that celebrates sharing these moments with others, including a 30-year Bordeaux with his parents on their 30-year anniversary. And that I believe is part of the point of this book.

Let me explain.

There are times in this read when I question the contrast between the more spare manifesto tone, and the memoir approach. The book begins with the sense that it needs to convince us of something, and at first I resisted what felt to me an opening with a defensive stance. After the first couple chapters, however, we step into a more relaxed voice that wants to share stories with us, and invite us into a more familiar understanding of Asimov’s personal connections with wine. By the conclusion it is clear Asimov, as he puts it, does not wish to proselytize. The early chapters, then, must stand for some other purpose. At first the move from the earlier, into the narrative reflection felt disjointed to me. In moving through the book as a whole, however, I recognize these first chapters are there to do what might be important work–that is, help us to clear a space for ourselves from the heavy assumptions of a wine culture that demands infallible knowledge and analytic tasting notes. In stepping out from under such weight, we can instead simply breath, relax, and enjoy as we read. Not only for hedonistic pleasure, but also for the sense of complexity that comes with no longer expecting an expert to deliver packaged and memorizable answers for us. The responsibility of authority comes back to us. In purposefully helping to create this kind of space, I believe Asimov is doing something to be appreciated, and that he can be thanked for.

U.S. wine culture often appears as intimidating, pretentious, and alien. Novices and connoisseurs alike doubt their own ability to successfully select a bottle of wine, as if it is a test not only of ones knowledge, but perhaps too of ones value as a person, or as a professional. There is, in other words, a fear that when it comes to wine it is far too easy to screw up. Eric Asimov, with his job as the Wine Critic of The New York Times stands as one of the arbiters of taste for the nation, and the world of wine at large. With such a position, then, if there are people qualified for delivering the test results of appropriate wine knowledge and value, Asimov is one of them. From that position of authority, Asimov avoids announcing what wine it is right for us to drink, and instead invites us to relax and enjoy whatever we drink with greater ease and freedom of pleasure. In this way, the stories he tells us are not only wonderful anecdotes about a person I love to read. They are also invitations for us to see that he (and by implication, the other arbiters of taste in the wine world too) is simply a person. Any experts in wine have ample knowledge, yes (and that should no doubt be respected), but the knowledge they have arises from their own experience with wine over time. Wine knowledge, then, is dynamic, changing, and, at its root, personal. If we want to love wine, we can develop our relationship with it ourselves too, just as Asimov or any other expert has.

By sharing his memoir with us, Asimov accomplishes the manifesto portion of his text by example. In the midst of what might otherwise seem alien, or intimidating (the world of wine), what Asimov’s book does, is invite us in to the experience.

***

Eric Asimov‘s book How To Love Wine: A Memoir and Manifesto was officially released today, October 16, 2012. It is available in the United States from William Morrow.

Thank you to the William Morrow division of Harper Collins for sending me an advanced copy of this book.

Most importantly: Congratulations and thank you to Eric Asimov for this excellent book, and for all his important work. May we all strive to bring such humility, grace, and clarity in excellence.

***
To hear more on the book from Eric Asimov himself, check out this interview by Levi Dalton on his podcast series, I’ll Drink to That! “Episode 33”.

Asimov, Eric. How To Love Wine: A Memoir and Manifesto. ISBN: 9780061802522; ISBN10: 0061802522; Imprint: William Morrow ; On Sale: 10/16/2012; Format: Hardcover; Trimsize: 5 1/2 x 8 1/4; Pages: 272; $24.99

Copyright 2012 all rights reserved. When sharing or forwarding, please attribute to WakawakaWineReviews.com

 

 

Wakawaka Turns 100! (Or, actually, 1!) For Paul, Susan, Katherine, Fred, and Hillary

Wakawaka Hits an Anniversary

Somewhere in the midst of spending time with friends, planning our move from Northern Arizona to Sonoma, and reflecting on the philosophical implications of a life in wine, I hit my one-year anniversary in wine comics.

Hawk Wakawaka’s First Posted Wine Comic

I knew the anniversary was coming up, but the truth is I was so immersed in the project I’d set out for myself–tasting wine, listening to people reflect on wine, writing about wine, drawing about wine, hanging out with friends in wine–that I missed the day itself when it happened.

Though the particular day has passed, I want to send my love and thanks to a few friends that pushed me into starting all this.

Thank you and Love to Paul

Paul and I in Memphis for New Year’s Eve

My dear friend Paul forced me into drawing the little zine that started it all. He’d come to visit us in Flagstaff, and during his visit I became cranky at some ridiculous national level political realities happening at the time. To express my irritation, I’d written him a sardonic, self-effacing-for-the-sake-of-making-a-political-point paragraph signed under a pen-name meant to capture the mouthy while loving, cranky though charming mood of the piece. Paul took a liking to the write-up and told me he thought I should turn it into a comic in the form of a handmade zine. I laughed and blew him off.

Over the course of his visit, Paul brought the idea up repeatedly. Each time, I nodded and ignored it. Finally, one afternoon Paul appeared in front of me with a bundle in his hand and said we were going to The Wine Loft for a glass of wine to hang out. Immediately accepting that idea, off we went. Then, when we sat down at the bar, Paul put paper, pen and my little paragraph transcribed in front of me, and told me I was going to sit there until I turned it into a comic. I stared at him, but seeing he was in earnest, drew stick-figures to illustrate the story, one waving on each page. Then, I handed it over.

Paul read the little zine, responded that he liked it and told me we were then going to go photocopy the thing. By the time the night had finished he’d pushed me step-by-step through first drawing, then copying, and finally packaging and mailing to everyone I knew, and some I didn’t, a little stick figure comic I’d made under the name Lily-Elaine Hawk Wakawaka. The good Wakawaka name was born.

Love and Thank you to Susan

Susan and I together in Seattle for my birthday

A week or so later, a number of friends wrote, having received the little comic Paul and I had sent out. Among them was Susan, in Seattle, writing to tell me she’d neared collapse at her mailbox laughing and crying while reading the Wakawaka zine until her neighbor came over to check on her, then read the comic and did the same. She asked if I would please do more. Nodding, I thanked and then ignored her, not thinking of it again. That non-response on my part began a series of messages sent to me every few days from Susan, each time with more information and ideas from her on how I could keep doing comics, post webcomics, start a comics’ blog, read other comics to see how other people do them, and generally asking how my Starting-a-New-Project-of-Drawing-Comics lifestyle was going for me.

Susan persisted at me for well over a month until in exasperation I finally drew another comic, that time about the disasters of dating, and mailed it to her, and a few other friends, thinking that would make Susan stop. To that comic she responded again the same–pushing me to draw more. For weeks she kept at it, and I now, with thanks, call Susan the hand of God, she is so convincing and devoted.

Thank you and Love to Katherine

Katherine in Le Cigare Volant, Santa Cruz, on our California tour this June (I have pics of Katherine and I together, but I just love this pic of her so I post it)

Somewhere in here Katherine stepped in, and started asking me to make photocopies of the comics I was drawing so she could hand them out during the monthly Flagstaff Art Walk. A few people then asked where online they could find more and finally to keep them quiet, and get Susan to stop bugging me I started a comics’ blog.

It didn’t work. Dear Susan started sending me notes cheering for me drawing, while Katherine made sure I carried around a notebook to write down ideas, and Paul kept sending links to different people to get them to read what I was doing. In the midst of this, somehow I got obsessed and decided I was going to draw comics on everything.

The thing was, I was deep in the world of philosophy by that point, living a life as a philosophy professor, and as some of us know, philosophy is highly demanding. To succeed you have to give it everything. The best philosophers I know have their career and one hobby, not two. So, by the time I started drawing these silly little comics, I’d almost forgotten I knew how to do anything besides read, think, write and teach all mixed together. Once my friends pushed me hard enough, discovering I could do something besides the read-think-write-teach quadrumvirate was such a relief I really did feel like I wanted to go ahead and comic continuously.

Love and Thank you to Fred and Hillary

Hillary, Fred, and I in Flagstaff

In the midst of drawing comics of everything I came up with the idea of drawing comics of my experience with wine. The idea occurred to me simply as funny–I loved the contrast between people thinking of comics as low brow and cheeky, while wine culture is often taken as snooty and pretentious. Neither is exactly accurate, but the contrast of stereotypes amused me. So, I drew up the three wines I’d had for my birthday then took the comics to The Wine Loft to show my dear friend Fred, just to see what he thought. (We were each others first friends in Flagstaff.) His only response was to ask if I’d like to draw a comic a week for The Wine Loft to be posted on the Facebook fan page. I couldn’t believe it. So, once a week I started sending Fred a comic to showcase a new featured wine for his shop/winebar.

Immediately, Hillary further encouraged the idea, saying she hoped to color the images, and offering to taste wines with me for the project. She encouraged the comics, shared them with friends, brainstormed new ideas, and helped pick bottles I wanted to draw up for my own comic site. I started adding a different wine comic a week to my comics’ blog, then one a day, and the next thing I knew, the wine comics had been mentioned by Vitabella Wines in France, Peter Handzus in Slovakia, Kermit Lynch Wine in the states, and Brain Pickings in London.

To take advantage of my research and writing experience, I integrated writing paired with drawing into the site, and then started receiving emails about sample bottles, potential commissions, and going on wine trips. I’ve since also added photography. This journey from comics to now has brought me all the way to moving my life to Napa-Sonoma, California where I am now building a life writing and drawing about wine, developing an income in an entirely new career. The whole experience has led to so many wonderful connections and friendships, and I continue to travel for this life in wine. I am so grateful.

With Love

In her series on love and relationships, bell hooks shows us that love is a practice of freedom–that is by giving ourselves to each other, and to what we do we find ourselves anew, released from the ways we might have thought we were restricted, or defined before. By fully investing in our love for another, we can express ourselves in ways we hadn’t expected, and discover we are capable of more (and sometimes less), or different things than we had believed possible. We can discover, then, too we have the capacity to change.

In addition, we come to see how anything we do becomes something more than ourselves alone. This happens in at least two ways. First of all, in encouraging another person, our love makes something new possible for that person. My friends saw in me something I hadn’t imagined, and by pushing me to do it gave bloom to a whole new life for me and my daughter. Secondly, this shows us too that what we do becomes something with a life of its own. That is, the decision we make to reach our own goals–whether it is something as simple as convincing a friend to draw a comic, or comics in general; or, something more complex like me deciding to give up my life in Flagstaff and throw myself completely into writing and drawing about wine now here in Napa-Sonoma–is an act of love as well. By following through on what we care about, we act in and for our own freedom–creating a life for ourselves that could not exist otherwise.

Paul, Susan, Katherine, Fred, and Hillary are the roots of Hawk Wakawaka Wine Reviews. Through them I got to see myself in ways I never expected, and discover this path that I am now living–listening, tasting, writing, and drawing about wine. Thanks to them, I find myself now so invested in this good life that I missed my own one-year anniversary.

Dear friends,
Thank you for your love. All of this I do because of you.
-Yours, Elaine

Copyright 2012 all rights reserved. When sharing or forwarding, please attribute to WakawakaWineReviews.com.

Visiting with Paul Draper at Ridge Monte Bello Vineyards

We’re Moving!

I am in the middle of packing up our house in Flagstaff, Arizona, to then drive our things to Sonoma County, California, where we will root down and make our good life. The slow down in posts is largely due to my making the adjustment to living in, and planning for living in a new place. I still have a lot of posts from my time in Oregon to update.

Meeting with Paul Draper

Last week I was lucky enough to spend several hours with Paul Draper, of Ridge Vineyards, tasting from barrel (Paul Draper himself pulled me barrel samples–have I mentioned that? I was standing there in the historic cellar caves in awe (getting choked up, and trying to hide it) as this year’s Monte Bello and Geyserville assemblage were handed to me by Mister Draper himself), tasting through part of their current portfolio, and most importantly listening.

Mister Draper was kind enough to talk through with me his views of how to recognize balance in wine and what it means for long term aging, the importance of terroir and how it does (and doesn’t) show itself in wine–plus how it takes patience for us to recognize it, and the long term vision of Ridge. We also, finally, fell into a reflection of how philosophy got him, and Ridge Wine to where he is today. As some of you know, I recently left a career in philosophy, teaching at a university. As I listened to Mister Draper explain that subject to me, I was again and again impressed, and grateful, for how thoroughly integrated into his way of life, and way of business philosophy really is for him. Mister Draper’s vision of wine, and sustaining the Ridge project for generations, arises from his investment in long term moral commitment, with the subtlety of aesthetic judgment, and more importantly his ability to enact those ideas.

I have been reflecting and thinking through our conversation, and can’t wait to write it up, but I am also taking time to reflect. His insights require due diligence on my part. In the meantime, here are pictures from the visit. I’m deeply humbled, and so grateful.

Thank you so much to Paul Draper for taking the time to meeting with me.

Thank you to Amy, Sue, and Sam.

Thank you to Michelle McCue, Dan Fredman, and Kyrsa Dixon.

Happy too to meet Mister Draper’s fantastic dog.

Write up coming soon!

***

on top of Monte Bello Ridge–2500 feet in elevation

Original vines at Monte Bello are head trained Cabernet–very unusual today

Bordeaux varieties planted on Monte Bello Ridge–Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petite Verdot, Cabernet Franc.

The Monte Bello site is all fractured limestone, with green rock on top (it turns red when exposed to oxygen). The site is considered an exotic terrain, in that it is unlike any of the areas surrounding it. Monte Bello Ridge is one of the few places in California (perhaps the only one?) that grows Cabernet vines in limestone. (look how wonderfully huge that trunk is)

pulling the second assemblage of Monte Bello 2011–this is likely the final blend, but there will be one more final consideration before bottling later in the Fall

Chardonnay had come in that morning from Monte Bello Estate–Ridge Chardonnay is done entirely whole cluster (and it’s wonderful)

Pulling the current assemblage of Geyserville 2011

Proudly telling me about the history of the Monte Bello caves, dug out of limestone in the 1880s (I love this picture)

Mister Draper’s very friendly (and cute) dog.

What I consistently find in Ridge wines, whether they are just released, from barrel, or older vintages, is an incredible integration of multiple elements–the flavors, and structure consistently work together, even when young and wanting greater age for softening of tannins, or opening up of flavors. I mention this to Mister Draper and then we begin an hour long conversation on balance…

Thank you again to Paul Draper. I am deeply grateful.

Thank you again too to Michelle McCue and Dan Fredman for helping me make the connection.

Copyright 2012 all rights reserved. When sharing or forwarding, please attribute to WakawakaWineReviews.com.

 

Attending Ribolla Gialla University, Part 5: Russian River Valley Ribolla Gialla, The Bowland’s Tanya Vineyard

Ribolla Gialla in Russian River Valley: Visiting the Bowland’s Tanya Vineyard

Chris Bowland, of Bowland Vineyard Management, fell in love with old vine, head trained zinfandel and in 2006, along with his wife, Tanya, decided to start a zinfandel vineyard in Russian River Valley. The Bowland’s Vineyard sits, then, at the Eastern end of the Valley on 6 acres of land, with 5 vine planted.

The challenge, as Bowland describes it, with striving for an old vine zinfandel vineyard rests in having to begin first with young vines. Old vines only develop from having at some point been planted new. Currently, in California, it can be hard to afford cultivating the younger plants because of the difficulty associated with selling their fruit year to year. As Bowland explains, everyone wants old vine zin, and so few purchase the fruit from younger vines. In order to enrich the economic viability of their family vineyard, the Bowlands decided to move from their Zinfandel-only property, to cultivating other varieties as well.

Bowland wanted to incorporate white grapes, and so turned to UC Davis to find cuttings for plants less known in the area. As a result, in 2010, he budded over a half acre total of both Fiano, and Greco, and also purchased all of the cuttings the university had of Ribolla Gialla–enough for two rows. In 2011, Bowland was then able to bud over three more rows of Ribolla, taken from his own young plants, leading to 3/4 of an acre now total–the second largest planting of the variety in North America (to the Vare Vineyards 2 1/2 acres).

The Ribolla Gialla of Russian River Valley stands in important contrast to that found at the Vare Vineyard in Napa Valley. In terms of site specifics, Bowland Vineyard offers heavy clay loam for the plants to root in, while the Vare vineyard rests in more rocky soils. While Vare vineyard is in the much warmer Napa Valley, it still sits in a cold air drainage at the start of Napa’s Dry Creek Canyon. Tanya vineyard, on the other hand, is found in the cool climate Russian River Valley, at the more open Eastern end, with its Ribolla harvest already several weeks behind that of Vare’s.

Another interesting factor plays out in the differences between Bowland and Vare fruit. While the cuttings of Ribolla Gialla found at Vare Vineyard made their way into the U.S. through rather direct routes between Italy and California, the Bowland cuttings arrived certified clean from UC Davis. Vare Ribolla is known to be loaded with multiple viruses, that would seem to both limit the vigor of the vines, and bring character to the fruit. Depending on ones view, the clean cuttings may improve the overall quality of the variety, while others worry clean cuttings will lead to less interesting overall flavor. The Bowland’s vineyard, however, is entirely new, as are certified clean Ribolla Gialla vines in North America. At this point, the resulting differences from lack of virus are not yet apparent.

What can be seen just from looking at the current crop at Bowland’s vineyard is at least two fold–the Ribolla fruit is large and consistently sized, and the overall crop is considerable. Bowland admits he is learning the fruit, and its preferred farming methods over time. While he’s pleased with this year’s abundance he believes next year he is likely to drop fruit earlier in the season to channel the vines vigor into fruit character.

2012 will be the first year Bowland’s Ribolla is sold for commercial harvest. Three winemakers are purchasing the fruit for production–Jim Cowan of Cowan Cellars, Dan Petroski of Massican Wines, and Thomas Brown of Schrader Cellars. In 2011 Bowland kept the fruit from his two rows of Ribolla Gialla for a home wine project he describes as made in more of an ultra clean “chablis style.”

***
Thank you to Chris Bowland for taking time to meet with me!
Thank you to Dan Petroski.

Attending Ribolla Gialla University, Part 1: Meeting George Vare: http://wakawakawinereviews.com/2012/07/19/attending-ribolla-gialla-university-part-1-meeting-george-vare/

Attending Ribolla Gialla University, Part 2: (A Life in Wine) George Vare, Friuli and Slovenia: http://wakawakawinereviews.com/2012/07/19/attending-ribolla-gialla-university-part-2-a-life-in-wine-george-vare-friuli-and-slovenia/

Attending Ribolla Gialla University, Part 3: Friuli Fest 2012, Ribolla Gialla Tasting and Discussion: http://wakawakawinereviews.com/2012/07/19/attending-ribolla-gialla-university-part-3-friuli-fest-2012-ribolla-gialla-tasting-and-discussion/

Attending Ribolla Gialla University, Part 4: Harvest of the George Vare Vineyard with Steve Matthiasson: http://wakawakawinereviews.com/2012/09/14/attending-ribolla-gialla-university-part-4-harvest-of-the-george-vare-vineyard-with-steve-matthiasson/

Attending Ribollat Gialla University, Part 6: The Vare Vineyard Tasting, Arlequin Wine Merchant: http://wakawakawinereviews.com/2013/04/23/attending-ribolla-gialla-university-part-6-the-vare-vineyard-tasting-arlequin-wine-merchant/

Attending Ribolla Gialla University, Part 7: The Matthiasson Vineyard, Napa: http://wakawakawinereviews.com/2013/05/01/attending-ribolla-gialla-university-part-7-the-matthiasson-vineyard-napa/

***

Post-edit: The Bowland’s vineyard is named “Tanya’s Vineyard.” Previously this post referred to the vineyard simply as “Bowland Vineyard.”

Copyright 2012 all rights reserved. When sharing or forwarding, please attribute to WakawakaWineReviews.com.

#GrenacheDay: Tasting Central Coast & Sonoma, California Grenache Blanc and Grenache Noir (in varietal and in blend)

This previous Friday, September 21 marked International Grenache Day, an occasion celebrated worldwide with tasting parties and events. Though I am a fan of Grenache and Grenache Blanc from multiple locales, this year I chose to focus on California examples.

Following are hand drawn Characteristic Cards for both Grenache Blanc, and Grenache Noir, and tasting descriptions for Central Coast, and Sonoma County wines of both grape types, made as either a varietal bottling, or blend. The descriptions appear in alphabetical order by label.

California Grenache Blanc and Grenache Blanc Blends

click on comic to enlarge

 

BonnyDoon 2010 Le Cigare Blanc. 55% Roussane, 45% Grenache Blanc. Vibrant citrus blossom and saline nose. Beeswax, lily, dill, salt water palate. Wants age.

Bonny Doon 2010 Le Cigare Blanc Reserve. 56% Roussanne, 44% Grenache Blanc. Ultra juicy, and mineral-driven pushes through the mouth on a citrus textural love fest. How sexy and happy can we get? I am a fan.

Martian Ranch 2011 Grenache Blanc. Crushed Nut, light orange blossom, Meyer lemon zest and blossom, plus dill, with a long nut-candle wax finish. Round mouthfeel, pleasing texture. Well enjoyed.

Tablas Creek 2011 Grenache Blanc. Pit of black olives, salt water, dill, dust and musk. Delicate nose, light flavor presentation. Texturally focused with good mineral dance.

Tablas Creek 2011 Patelin de Tablas Blanc. 45% Grenache Blanc, 34% Viognier, 18% Rousanne, 3% Marsanne. Chamomile that opens to apricot, buckwheat flour and hazelnut skin. Chalky, with beeswax and mineral finish. I want a little more zip here. Curious to try it with age.

Two Shepherds 2011 Grenache Blanc. Creamy bay leaf nose. Palate of peach blossom, and salt water freshness. Dill, integrated pepper and jalapeno skin. Lightly metallic. Makes me want food. I very much enjoy this wine.

 

California Grenache and Grenache Blends

click on comic to enlarge

Donelan 2010 Cuvee Moriah. 54% Grenache, 26% Mourvedre, 20% Syrah. Well integrated nose and palate presentation of light smoke and rare steak, violets and blue fruit, black and red cherries, light cranberry, pepper. Juicy fruit mouth. Very much enjoy this wine. Good drinking now showing good mouth weight. Will be brilliant in several years.  Can’t wait to age it.

Martian Ranch 2011 Grenache Noir. Pomegranate, sugar snap peas and ultra-fresh green pepper nose. Palate of ripe cherry, plus cherry pit, bramble, dried rose petals and toast finish. Lightly mouth watering, no mouth grip. Interesting presentation of this grape with its cool climate green notes. It struck me as strange at first, but I grew to quite enjoy it.

Ridge 2008 51% Syrah, 49% Grenache. Smoked meat, date, molasses, bay leaf, dirt with just a touch of horse, exotic spice, and a red fruit finish. Each of the Ridge wines are the richest examples in this overall tasting collection.

Ridge 2006 Lytton Estate Grenache with 10% Petite Syrah, 10% Zinfandel. Bay leaf nose. Brazil nut and hazelnut, menthol, concentrated fruit palate, with long finish.

Ridge 2005 Lytton Estate Grenache with 6% Petite Syrah 6% Zinfandel. Nose of rhubarb pie, licorice root, figs, & almond extract. Concentrated fruit, soy, light smoke and integrated pepper. Juicy palate. Long finish of exotic spice and walnut with a pleasing grip. The darkest most date-plus-soy focused of the Ridge wines.

Sheldon 2011 Ceja Vineyard Grenache. Red cherry, herb, pleasing palate offering a textural pull leaning towards drying mouth grip. This wine has good meat-plus-sexy. I enjoy the light body and dance-y flavor presentation of this wine.

Sheldon 2008 Vinlocity Grenache. Starts at the intersection of cherry pit-almond-vanilla spreads into light wintergreen-and-pine. Good structure. Wants age.

Tablas Creek 2010 Cotes De Tablas. 46% Grenache, 39% Syrah, 10% Mourvedre, 5% Counoise. Tomato seed, fig, and wheat plant. Pungent berry high notes, carrying a devil musk and his leather jacket from forest fog. Wants age.

Tablas Creek 2010 Grenache. Weighty wild red berry, pepper, wet leather and wet earth, plus spice. Nice mouth grab with pleasing acidic, mineral zip. Like the texture and freshness here.

Two Shepherds 2010 GSM. 50% Grenache, 25% Syrah, 25% Mourvedre. Cold red berries and flowers, light smoke, meat, violets and just the right amount of wet mud. Vibrant, only lightly bloody (a little blood here is pleasing), herbal, and freshly green. Earthy, with hints of leather, and a fresh mouth grip.

***

Thank you to Bonny Doon, Tablas Creek, and Donelan for the wine samples. Ridge, Two Shepherds, and Sheldon Wines were tasted at the Rhone Rangers North Coast Chapter Grenache Day event.

Copyright 2012 all rights reserved. When sharing or forwarding, please attribute to WakawakaWineReviews.com. WakawakaWineReviews–accept no substitute.

Harvesting California St Laurent: Matthew Rorick and Forlorn Hope Wine

Harvesting California St Laurent

The Barn at Ricci Vineyard, Carneros

Ricci Vineyard, Carneros, Sunday, September 16 a.m.

St Laurent Waiting for Harvest

St Laurent is a member of the Pinot family, thought of primarily as an Austrian grape. Its presence outside of the home country is slim, with small plantings present in New Zealand, British Columbia, and other areas of Central Europe. Matthew Rorick, of Forlorn Hope Wines, produces the only 100% varietal of the grape in the United States, sourcing from 90 vines at Ricci Vineyards in Carneros.

Matthew Rorick & Susanne Snowden Rorick Harvesting St Laurent Sept 16 a.m.

The Ricci Vineyard, in Carneros, has loam and alluvial clay soils, the combination of which offers ground that is both fertile and good for water retention. The Carneros area overlaps both Napa and Sonoma, and offers cooler temperatures and water influence from San Pablo Bay and the Pacific Ocean.

But the soils are also full of volcanic granite rocks, which helps retain heat over the course of the day. The higher proportion of granite found in soil, the more it helps to increase acid levels of the grapes growing in such a site.

The plantings of St Laurent producing fruit in the Ricci Vineyard were placed originally as an experiment by vineyard owner, Dale Ricci. Though he chose not to expand the plantings, Rorick found the fruit before they’d been removed, beginning his St Laurent varietal in 2007. He has also recently been able to convince Ricci to increase the plantings of St Laurent with another 1/2 acre of the vines recently grafted for Rorick. Because the number of plants currently producing are so low, Rorick harvests the fruit by hand himself with the help of friends. The 2012 harvest on the morning of Sunday, September 16 gave 824 pounds of grapes, a very good harvest for the finicky fruit.

Susanne Snowden Rorick shows a perfect and plump St Laurent cluster.

It is actually less common to find clusters of St Laurent so full of hens (large berries) and intact. St Laurent is known for being difficult to work with because of challenges that occur around harvest.

It is more common for St Laurent clusters to have a high proportion of chicks (small berries) with only a few hens showing. St Laurent skins are thicker than those of a Pinot Noir, though not highly so. Additionally, the skins carry a slightly spicy bite. As a result, the clusters with a greater proportion of smaller fruit offer distinctive flavors, and texture for the wine upon pressing.

However, it is also commonly the case that the smaller berries of St Laurent will shrivel right before harvest and simply fall from the cluster during picking. In the 2011 harvest Rorick was able to pick from only 45 vines, instead of his usual 90, and the majority of the clusters he harvested dropped all of their chicks, leaving only a handful of larger berries per cluster from which to make wine.

St Laurent is commonly described as half way between Pinot Noir and Syrah, both in terms of body and flavor profile, offering the lighter style of a Pinot Noir with a touch more heft, and the spice potential pointing towards Syrah. When picked overly ripe, however, it can also become quite fruit-sweet and quickly drop acidity levels. Rorick chooses to do a modified whole cluster approach when working with the fruit, in that he keeps the stems intact and does a very light foot tred to break some of the berries. He likes to keep the stems on this variety both because of the black tea notes they add, and also for the tannin influence. As Rorick puts it, “keeping the stems gives the wine a little more backbone.”

In deciding when to harvest any of his grape varieties, Rorick explains he picks with an eye towards acidity and flavor. As he describes it, the concept of ideal ripeness includes a range that people can choose when to pick within depending on their stylistic preferences. Those that Rorick is most inspired by pick only just into the early side of that ripeness window. Rorick tries to pick near or only just after their example.

In asking Rorick to name those he has been inspired by as a wine maker in his Forlorn Hope Wines, he immediately names Dan Petroski of Massican Wines, and Tegan Passalacqua of Turley Wine Cellars. He explains that he initially began questioning his own wine making upon noticing that there was a difference between the wines he was making (for a client prior to starting Forlorn Hope Wines)–big Napa Cabernet–and the wines he wanted to drink on his own–wines with lower alcohol and higher acidity. Eventually though, the connection to Passalacqua pushed Rorick into a philosophical reconsideration of wine making in general. The connection came from taking long car rides together on the way to inspect or harvest vineyards. In conversation with Passalacqua, Rorick began questioning his inclination to pick on the later side of ripeness, then add acid and water to bring the wines back into balance. Through conversations with Passalacqua, Rorick began to recognize the vineyard could do that work, leaving the fruit closer to the vine, so to speak. As a result, Rorick found himself turning his principles towards the vineyard, and what it can offer the winemaker.

Full conviction came when Rorick tasted Massican wines. Petroski picks on the earliest edge of ideal ripeness, keeping acidity as high as possible while striving for aromatics and fruit as well. As Rorick puts it, he loves Massican Wines, and seeing what Petroski is able to do with his picking practices pushed Rorick into a full realization of his newer approach.

As he describes it, Rorick’s views now are that wine is best made by using only what the vineyard has to offer. He is careful to explain that he isn’t claiming to be a low interventionist in his wine. The difference is in recognizing that by choosing to de-stem, or not, to cold soak, or not, to go through malolactic fermentation, or not, the wine maker is still working with what the vineyard has to offer, rather than adding distinctly new materials. The winemaker is intervening, they just are not adding outside chemicals. The focus, then, is not on avoiding choices of how to handle the fruit as much as in making a commitment not to add anything to that fruit besides SO2 for stability. As Rorick states, “if we’re making other adjustments in the winery, how are we getting a snapshot of what the vineyard is like? At that point it isn’t about the vineyard anymore.” He adds, “If I can’t get the result I want in the vineyard, then I’m working in the wrong vineyard.” Rorick further clarifies that this conviction continues into his stance on new oak. He chooses now not to use it because of how it adds such a significant flavoral difference to the wine. He does, however, use old oak barrels for aging.

2012 is the earliest Rorick has brought in his St Laurent, in terms of the fruits entry into its ideal ripeness window, that is, in terms of maturity. He says it is also the freshest the fruit has tasted straight off the vine.

More pictures of processing the St Laurent fruit on the way from Matthew Rorick!

***
Thank you to Matthew Rorick for including me in your St Laurent harvest.

Thank you to Susanne Snowden Rorick.

Thank you to David and Kim Evans.

A good pet to Coco.

Copyright 2012 all rights reserved. When sharing or forwarding, please attribute to WakawakaWineReviews.com.

Attending Ribolla Gialla University, Part 4: Harvest of the George Vare Vineyard with Steve Matthiasson

Harvesting Ribolla Gialla

Steve Matthiasson manages the George Vare Vineyard in Napa, which includes 2 1/2 acres of Ribolla Gialla, the first plantings of the variety in California. This morning was the initial harvest of the fruit for the 2012 vintage, selecting Ribolla for the Massican label, Arnot-Roberts, and Matthiasson’s own label of the same name. Early next week others that source Ribolla from the Vare Vineyard will pursue their picking. Steve was kind enough to invite me along for today’s morning harvest.

This morning’s Ribolla will be used by both Massican and Matthaisson for their white blends. In each case, the labels pick early to take advantage of the higher acidity of the fruit at this stage. As Dan Petroski of Massican explains, he picks early, selecting fruit for varietal typicity, thereby drawing out more of the grape’s unique aromatics. Ribolla is also known for offering pleasing texture and weight in a white blend.

Tasting fresh Ribolla fruit with Steve Matthiasson, he describes the flavors. What he is impressed by with Ribolla Gialla is the way that the fruit itself tastes of mineral qualities. As he explains it, wines that show so-called minerality often do so because of choices made in the wine making process, without the original fruit necessarily offering those same flavoral components. Ribolla, on the other hand, shows the mineral flavors right off the vine. Matthaisson describes what he tastes from the fruit of the Vare Vineyard–a taste of wet stone, followed by a long finishing smell of rain on hot concrete. Minutes later I can still taste the steam and a slight tang from the pop of the grapes.

The last three years Arnot-Roberts have sourced Ribolla from the Vare vineyard making small bottlings of a full varietal with the fruit. In 2009 and 2010 they brought the fruit straight to press, making an ultra clean version of the wine. 2011 they chose to foot tred the grapes, leaving six hours of skin contact for a little more texture and phenolic presence. This morning’s pick will bring something new for the winemakers. They have recently purchased a new Spanish-made Amphora, in which they intend to make Ribolla Gialla for the 2012 vintage. The Spanish Amphorae are made with denser sides than traditional to Georgian-style Kveri. The difference is that wine makers using the Spanish Amphora, such as Alto Adige based Elisabetta Foradori, often choose both not to bury the clay vessel, and also not to line it. Georgian-style Amphora, on the other hand, are both buried in the ground, and lined with beeswax before being filed with fruit for wine. Nathan Roberts and Duncan Arnot intend to follow the practice particular to the Spanish style vessels. post edit: Spanish made clay wine vessels are called there Tinajas. Georgian style vessels, kveri, or qveri. In Italy, anfora. In English these are all generally called Amphora.

Harvesting Ribolla Gialla, George Vare Vineyard, Sept 14 a.m. 2012

The 2012 vintage shows the greatest consistency of fruit for the life of the Ribolla Gialla plantings in this vineyard. In past vintages, there has been a higher proportion of chicks, smaller grapes, caused by a virus present in the Ribolla vines. In Chardonnay, hens and chicks (large and small size fruit) are prized for the textural addition offered by the size variation. The smaller fruit in Chardonnay add a waxier quality to the body of the wine because of the higher skin-to-juice ratio that many wine makers and drinkers appreciate. Steve Matthiasson explains that he likes finding hens and chicks in Ribolla too both for the textural benefit it offers, but also for the flavor complexity generated by the size differences. Others that prefer a riper style to their Ribolla, on the other hand, sometimes seek more consistency in the fruit size as a way of decreasing the potential for heaviness they believe could come with the extra phenolic content of the skins.

Harvesting Ribolla Gialla, George Vare Vineyard, Sept 14 a.m. 2012

Ribolla Gialla picked and ready to be weighed, and delivered

Sharpening the Hook Knife used for harvesting the grape clusters

Gathering the picked fruit into bins for delivery

Ribolla Gialla picked and gathered into bins

***

For previous installments in this series, visit the following links:

Attending Ribolla Gialla University, Part 1: Meeting George Vare: http://wakawakawinereviews.com/2012/07/19/attending-ribolla-gialla-university-part-1-meeting-george-vare/

Attending Ribolla Gialla University, Part 2: (A Life in Wine) George Vare, Friuli and Slovenia: http://wakawakawinereviews.com/2012/07/19/attending-ribolla-gialla-university-part-2-a-life-in-wine-george-vare-friuli-and-slovenia/

Attending Ribolla Gialla University, Part 3: Friuli Fest 2012, Ribolla Gialla Tasting and Discussion: http://wakawakawinereviews.com/2012/07/19/attending-ribolla-gialla-university-part-3-friuli-fest-2012-ribolla-gialla-tasting-and-discussion/

Attending Ribolla Gialla University, Part 5: Russian River Valley Ribolla Gialla, The Bowland’s Tanya Vineyard: http://wakawakawinereviews.com/2012/09/29/attending-ribolla-gialla-university-part-5-russian-river-valley-ribolla-gialla/

Attending Ribollat Gialla University, Part 6: The Vare Vineyard Tasting, Arlequin Wine Merchant: http://wakawakawinereviews.com/2013/04/23/attending-ribolla-gialla-university-part-6-the-vare-vineyard-tasting-arlequin-wine-merchant/

Attending Ribolla Gialla University, Part 7: The Matthiasson Vineyard, Napa: http://wakawakawinereviews.com/2013/05/01/attending-ribolla-gialla-university-part-7-the-matthiasson-vineyard-napa/

***

Thank you to Steve Matthiasson for including me in the harvest this morning.

Thank you to George Vare and Matthew Rorick for keeping me informed on harvest dates.

Thank you to Dan Petroski and Nathan Roberts.

Copyright 2012 all rights reserved. When sharing or forwarding, please attribute to WakawakaWineReviews.com.

Tasting the Visual, Sharing Influence: Patrick Reuter of Dominio IV Wine, Shape Tasting

3

Patrick Reuter’s Shape Tasting

close up of Dominio IV 2008 “In the Valley of Angels” Syrah, by Patrick Reuter

Studying aspects of wine or viticulture at UC Davis, it was standard practice for students to participate in regular wine tastings, taking notes on flavor and structure while tasting. Over time, substantial catalogs of wine notes were recorded, each student with their own notebook listing aspects of a wine experience.

During his studies, Patrick Reuter, co-owner and wine maker of Dominio IV Wines in Oregon, developed his own log listing characteristics of wines from weekly in depth tastings. Over time, however, he recognized that when he reviewed this information he’d recorded, he had no clear recollection of the wines themselves. The lists began to look remarkably the same–standard wine notes naming fruit, acid and tannin made no genuine impression on his memory.

close up of Dominio IV 2008 “In the Valley of Angels” Syrah, by Patrick Reuter

Reuter began experimenting with what impressions from wine did make sense to him, and found himself sketching notes of wine rather than listing attributes. What he found was that when he recorded the visual experience he had of a wine’s flavors, the memory of the wine remained. Looking back over his drawings of a wine experience, Reuter could more readily recall the wine he’d tasted, even long after.

close up of Dominio IV 2008 “In the Valley of Angels” Syrah, by Patrick Reuter

Eventually Reuter realized he could use his wine sketching as a tool for his wine making. One of the challenges with listed tasting notes is in how they treat wine as a static snapshot in time, as if all flavors and the structure present simultaneously. That is, tasting notes generally offer only a limited description of a wine, they do not show how the presentation changes in your mouth. But, by incorporating a sense of time and duration into his drawings, Reuter could record and then analyze a sense of the structure and layout of the wine as a whole. He could draw for himself an image of the wines presentation–whether it was all fruit up front; how full or not the mid-palate was; how long the finish carried and whether different flavors arose there. In doing so, he could then also see where a particular wine might be deficient, or overly powerful.

When it came to blending, he could draw the presentation of different barrels and then go back over the images to see where different barrels might best complement each other to produce a better blend. As Reuter explains, “you might have a barrel that is fruity up front, but then there is a gap [where the flavors fall away]. Visually you can see the gap. But another barrel, it might fill that gap. In the drawings, you can see that, and then use it for blending.”

Dominio IV 2008 “In the Valley of Angels” Syrah. Click on image to enlarge.

Moving from left to right shows the development of the wine over time. The width of the image from bottom to top shows how full the wine presents on the palate, and where the flavors and structure offer the most concentration.

Developing Shape Tasting

Dominio IV 2006 Tempranillo.

An early shape tasting image by Patrick Reuter

The image still shows the wine over time, with the large circles representing the late mid-palate, but Reuter had not yet incorporated text, or more subtle drawing elements into his tasting notes. As Reuter describes the experience of this tasting image–“The wine starts and you are rolling in texture. You come to the mid-palate and it’s so big you don’t know if you are going to come out the end of it. Then, suddenly it’s all finish.”

In recognizing his own interest in presenting wine visually, Reuter began reading more about synesthesia, a neurological condition in which stimulation of one sensory pathway, like taste, triggers a response in another sensory pathway, like vision. The experience of synesthesia is such that people will do things like see flavors, or recognize certain letters with a particular color. Studies have shown that synesthesia is incredibly common in children, and that with acculturation the experience lessens for most people into adulthood. However, for some people, some synesthetic experience remains into adulthood. It also appears possible that such experiences can be cultivated.

A Shape Tasting Workshop for Wine Distributors led by Patrick Reuter. Photo by Patrick Reuter.

After developing a clearer sense of his own Shape Tasting method–an image shows wine presentation over time, left to right; rounder shapes represent fruits; colors purposefully reflect flavors; lines are acidity; x’s and checks are tannin and texture–Reuter was encouraged to share the process with others.

Recently, a visit from wine distributors getting familiar with Oregon wine was planned, and a visit to taste with Dominio IV was included for them. Reuter decided the best way to make his wines memorable for the visitors was to help them go more deeply into the experience, rather than just focus on a typical high speed tasting style. He prepared, then, to have them perform their own Shape Tasting process. After briefly tasting each of the wines, Reuter asked each person to select the wine that spoke to them most strongly, then to receive another pour of that wine and spend more time with it. He guided them through the Shape Tasting process and then everyone took half an hour to draw their experience of the wine, leaving then, with their own graphical representation of their favorite Dominio IV wine.

Dominio IV 2006 “Song” Syrah

In talking through Shape Tasting with Reuter, something amazing happens.

I’ve been asking him to walk me through how his experience of visually tasting wine works, and then too to tell me the steps he went through in developing his tasting images. The most recent ones (like the 2008 Syrah that opens this post through several close-ups, and the 2011 Viognier that follows next) I find so beautiful.

He tells me about work he did with Skip Walter in Seattle to get clearer on thinking of his Shape Tasting drawings as a kind of artistic graph. It is this combination of careful precision to drawing an accurate image of the wine’s duration and fullness of presentation, with the artistic expression of that, that fascinates me. Because of the determination to graph the process of tasting wine, the drawings offer a sort of mathematics of experience.

But then, unexpectedly, he pulls out the 2006 “Song” drawing (above) and points to the words incorporated into the image (the earlier images, like that for the 2006 Tempranillo, shown earlier above, notice have no text), and says, “that’s when I found your website.” I am stunned. And then he tells me how seeing my wine comics made him realize he could further develop his Shape Tasting images to be both more accessible, or readable to people in general in how they show others the experience of the wine, and to do so by offering something to both visual and textual learners. What he’s developed through this incorporation since is a pleasing aesthetic balance in the images. These drawings look to me at home in themselves.

I have been fascinated from the beginning by Reuter’s idea of Shape Tasting. I am generally interested in how others experience what they love (and the truth is, I don’t just get a list of flavors and attributes when I taste wine either). But, the drawings he has done most recently, I find the most beautiful both for how they integrate drawings with text, but also for how at ease with themselves they read to me. The 2011 “Still Life” Viognier drawing, shown below, and the 2008 “In the Valley of Angels” Syrah, at the top above, both understand what they’re doing in a way that makes the presence of the wine accessible as well. The same comfortable, while dynamic presence I recognize in these most recent drawings I also find consistently in Reuter’s Dominio IV wines. They offer a union of simplicity with richness I consistently find appealing.

Dominio IV 2011 “Still Life” Viognier (not yet colored).

Reuter shows me his Shape Tasting image for the 2011 Viognier we have just tasted, then describes how Viognier, for him, offers a kind of dual personality. It opens with so much fruit, you could almost think it was Chardonnay at first, he explains. But then it changes, and the second half of the wine is more like Riesling, all lines of acidity and motion. Reuter’s drawing beautifully captures that two sided, while coherent nature. I am convinced.

***

Dominio IV Wines are biodynamically farmed, and family owned in Oregon by Patrick Reuter, and Leigh Bartholomew. Their winery is located in Willamette Valley, and they also own The Three Sleeps biodynamically farmed vineyard in Columbia Gorge. Additionally, they source some sustainably farmed fruit from Southern Oregon.

Dominio IV Wines are available through their website in both:

Wine Shop: http://www.dominiowines.com/index.php?page=shop.browse&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=56&vmcchk=1&Itemid=56

and

Wine Club: http://www.dominiowines.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=22&Itemid=38

To hear more on Shape Tasting from Patrick himself, check out this series of videos of Patrick Reuter walking Jeff Weissler of Conscious Wine through the process: http://consciouswine.com/tasting-wine-shape-tasting-dominio-iv/

Thank you to Patrick Reuter for taking the time to meet with me and share his Shape Tasting with me.

Copyright 2012 all rights reserved. When sharing or forwarding, please attribute to WakawakaWineReviews.com.

The Power of Images for Winery Marketing: A Response to Steve Heimoff

A Response to Steve Heimoff: Considering his Original Question

Steve Heimoff asks, what are the implications for wineries as social media shifts away from words, more towards images?

I want to take up Heimoff’s ideas on this topic in order to consider briefly how wineries can leverage the power of images for their own marketing goals. To do so, I’ll first consider aspects of Heimoff’s account, then show where I think his analysis points to ways we can go further in recognizing the power of images.

click on comic to enlarge

In his post from September 5, Steve Heimoff considers what he sees as the shift in social media from primarily word based communication towards more visual based sharing. As Heimoff describes it, social media forms such as Facebook (and I assume also blogs) had initially been more text driven, but recently have changed to become much more about image sharing. This shifting phenomenon Heimoff sees repeated too via sites like Pinterest and Instagram.

In describing the movement from words to images, Heimoff wants to ask whether the change will impact wineries marketing plans, and whether visual based forms of social media can really help wineries’ wine sales at all.

To consider the question, Heimoff first asks whether or not any particular product being sold is in itself a visual product. As I read Heimoff’s post, the idea here is that if a product is primarily visual (like fashion, or art, as examples), then it should be easier to sell that product via visual imagery (I don’t think this is at all an obvious claim, but I’m going to ignore that here to focus instead on a different argument). To clarify, claiming a product is primarily visual does not foreclose the possibility it is also delivering other ideas, it is just asking what the driving aspects of a product are. So, as a different example, while a novel might need smart design on the book cover (a visual element), the value of the novel itself is more primarily found in the ideas and story within the novel (the text). His point in exploring this idea is to state that wineries’ apparent product (that is, wine) is not something that is primarily visual. So, in other words, the label of the wine may be relevant to how a consumer responds initially to a wine, like the cover design of a book. But wine is not primarily about the label on the bottle, it is more importantly about the wine inside the bottle. As the argument goes, since wine is, apparently, not a visual product it will not readily sell via visual-dominated marketing or visual-dominated social media presentation.

If wine is not a product with an importantly visual element, what is it? According to Heimoff, wine is not a product with image-driven sales (like Lanvin’s hard to walk in but still really gorgeous high heels might be), but is instead an item dependent on data for sales. In Heimoff’s view, to readily purchase wine consumers need data on the wine not just a picture of a bottle. Here Heimoff considers the effect of something like the image of a cute dog on a consumer. The dog may trigger an “Awww” response, as he puts it, but in his view triggering that feeling isn’t doing the work of building a relationship with the person that happens to think the dog is cute. When considering what kind of images a winery might post online he doesn’t go far beyond the possibility of an image of their wine bottle, or perhaps of their winery. At that level of sophistication, it seems easy to agree with Heimoff that a picture of a bottle of wine isn’t doing a lot to deliver data to a consumer. The bottle of wine photo doesn’t do a lot to give consumers data they may want.

What data does Heimoff see as relevant? The relevant data, according to his account, includes information like, a wines’ grape types, its flavor profile, the cost of the wine, and perhaps the origin of the grapes, but as he describes it what that data offers is a kind of consumer assurance of the role the wine will play in the consumers’ life–that is, whether they’ll like it. The point Heimoff wants to make, however, is that what wineries are trying to do through this data and assurance combo is build a relationship with consumers, a relationship that over time will help sales.

Heimoff has more to say on the subject than just these points, and I certainly recommend reading his post directly. You can find it here: http://www.steveheimoff.com/index.php/2012/09/05/as-social-media-migrates-towards-images-and-away-from-words-what-are-the-implications-for-wineries/

However, what I’d like to respond to is Heimoff’s analysis of the word versus image dichotomy and his implicit assumption that the imagery operating in social media is not effectively enough delivering the data consumers want and/or need. In doing this I want to assume that Heimoff is right about the point that consumers need or want data as a way to understand what they are buying, though I think what we mean by data could be further considered. I also want to agree with him in the idea that wineries need or want to build relationships with consumers as a way of supporting sales. I’m going to assume that effective marketing is partially about building such relationships (though I think it’s also about triggering a spontaneous purchase from a consumer). Where I’m going to try and push Heimoff’s account further is in considering how the visual can actually work to build this relationship and share the data Heimoff is looking for.

A Response to Steve Heimoff: The Power of Images, and the Role of Marketing

Let’s go ahead and assume Heimoff is right that social media has become far more visually driven, and from that perspective reconsider his question. What is the implication for wineries?

click on comic to enlarge

Heimoff is right. Images operate differently than text does in making contact with a consumer. Where Heimoff’s account can push further, however, is in his consideration of what imagery has the power to do.

People involved in marketing, as wineries certainly are, can never under estimate the importance or power of the visual in selling their product, whatever that product happens to be. To put it another way, marketing is generally dependent on visual elements, and has been since before the introduction of social media, or even print media. Signs and billboards are a simple example of our dependence on the visual for quickly delivering a consumer response. With print media, the introduction of print advertising and associated simple imagery can be seen. In social media the potential marketing for the visual expands to include moveable icons, or even videos. Behind each of these forms is the presentation of a kind of brand through which a company, person, or product builds their longer term relationship (or not) with consumers. In each case, the visual elements act to give consumers at least two things, which I’ll name in a moment.

The challenge to Heimoff’s account rests in his implicit assumption of text and imagery being a simple dichotomy. In this view, words operate to deliver information as text, on the one hand, and images act like the image of the dog I quickly think is cute, or of the ever-enticing Lanvin shoe I can’t stop thinking about (god, I love the combination of leather, a stiletto, and a smart ankle cuff), on the other. That is, from this perspective, images are not assumed to deliver information in the same way that text does.

click on comic to enlarge

Here’s the point: the sort of data communication that Heimoff is looking for, and assumes will build a relationship with consumers for wineries is possible through visual forms. The visual turn in social media has profound implications for wineries. That is, visual marketing can be effective when it accomplishes either of the following two goals (and I’m sure there are other potential goals to seek here too. I’m choosing to focus on these two simply to make the point that the visual is thoroughly relevant for wineries).

First of all, it is possible for images to either implicitly or explicitly deliver information that lets consumers know if they want the product or not. In the case of wine, one example occurs by sharing tasting notes through visual elements rather than only textual ones. The visual can also be blended with text. The comics I have been imbedding in this post are an example of a way to do this. The feedback I’ve received from readers, both general consumers, and consumers from within the wine industry, is that these wine comics make the flavor profile of the wine, and therefore the experience of drinking it, more accessible than a simple listing of taste components. Even if in a bare sense the information presented through the comic is remarkably similar when listed out as mere descriptors to the information given in a textual tasting note, the shift from textual to visual presentation turns out to be important. That is, the form of presentation of information has a significant impact on the reader, and information can be delivered in visual form. The reality of such impact I believe reaches to the second possible way to harness the power of visual imagery.

The feeling response Heimoff points to through his example of the cute dog picture is, I believe, important. Marketing has the power to trigger spontaneous purchases, or sudden interest, as well as develop longer term buying relationships with consumers. Understanding that imagery doesn’t just deliver information but also triggers feelings that matter, with those feelings leading to choices people make, including choices of what to buy, is foundational to marketing and has been since long before the advent of social media.

click on comic to enlarge: this comic drawn for Talia “I’ll Swirl Anything” Baiocchi

In this way, the apparent shift in social media to focusing on the visual is something that has profound implications for wineries, but also too for all of us, as we strive to re-imagine the ways we communicate with each other, visually or otherwise.

***

Hawk Wakawaka Wine Reviews began in mid-2011 as a primarily comics based wine blog, and has expanded to include more writing, and also photography. The comics shown throughout this post are just a few examples of images that have previously appeared as a wine review feature throughout this blog, and are all hand drawn by Ms Wakawaka herself.

Thank you to Steve Heimoff for his post.

Thank you to Julie Ann Kodmur.

Copyright 2012 all rights reserved. When sharing or forwarding, please attribute to WakawakaWineReviews.com.

California Interlude: The Release of Dirty and Rowdy [Family] Wines

Together, Hardy Wallace and Matt, along with Kate Graham and Amy, have started and today release Dirty & Rowdy [Family] Wines. Hardy and Matt share the overall demands of the business, and all of the high level wine making decisions, while Hardy is on site through the year to maintain the hands on wine making. The family is of affection. In June, I was lucky enough to spend time with Wallace and Graham, tasting their Mourvedre and Semillon, while talking about how they understand the work they do.

Tasting Dirty & Rowdy Wines

The 2010 Dirty & Rowdy Mourvedre

The 2010 Dirty & Rowdy Mourvedre comes in at 12.8% with a lighter bodied presentation of the dark elements classic to the grape.The wine carries a dusty fineness of dark berries, with a balance of freshness and earthiness both, very light petrol and powdered sage, and a long toast with light tang finish.

Wallace explains his inspiration for this wine is the lighter style of Cru Beaujolais, with its combination of refreshing body carrying a depth of stoniness and character. At the same time, his interest in making the Mourvedre comes from his love of whites, with their ability to offer a transparency of the dirt from which they originate. His goal, then, is to create a wine with rich flavoral components, a transparency of the place in which it is grown, and at the same time a lighter weight in the mouth.

Wallace illustrates that his favorite wines can be understood as an analog to sushi. “The wines I love most have had the least amount of touch. Every time a wine is touched [in production], it is one step further from where it’s from.” Sushi, on the other hand, offers the least intervention for food–as raw fish, it is dealt with only in as much as will make it safe to consume, and as much as it takes to cut and place it on the plate. The paradox of this wine arises in that Mourvedre, as a variety, offers a great weight in its character, but Wallace manages to draw on the heft of the Mourvedre in a lighter frame of presentation. Traditionally the grape has been dealt with in red blends to bring darker notes. It is less often treated as a straight varietal.

To deliver his vision, Wallace created the 2010 Mourvedre with Santa Barbara Highlands fruit, 100% whole cluster, and only enough punch downs to push the cap during fermentation.

The 2011 Dirty & Rowdy Mourvedre

For the 2011 vintage, Wallace wanted to create an even lighter presentation for the Mourvedre. He chose to pick the fruit earlier for a little more freshness, and during fermentation was even lighter in his pushing on the clusters. He’d push the cap down once a day in 2011, “just enough to see my feet in there.”

In getting Wallace to discuss his views on wine, conversation comes around eventually to a profoundly spiritual heart focus. In the way he discusses wine and wine making, what shows is a belief that inasmuch as any of us have a spiritual life, it is right here in our everyday. The choice comes in whether we be open to it. “When fermentation gets going… [he pauses] I want to be present for it. That process… the center of the earth is connected to the center of the universe, hopefully with gentle hands between.” Wallace’s devotion and focus comes too from more than 17 years studying, and playing North Indian Classical music, a form that brings together incredible discipline and clarity with the understanding that any of us are, and can be conduits for that spiritual life force just mentioned.

Wallace explains that his views of wine overlap his understanding of music. “Music communicates the things we don’t have language for. Wine does this as well.” Kate agrees, nodding, “What Hardy is doing, it’s all about the heart. [Engaging in wine and music, or any of our other projects] they’re a way of noticing, what does it do to you? And, also, of paying attention to, what are you doing?” Revealed in these questions is a simultaneous awareness of surrender to what can’t be controlled, and recognition of the power of personal choices. It is in the midst of this understanding that the seriousness shows something more. Wallace spells it out. “We’re trying to make it as fun as possible, by taking a light hearted approach. It should be fun. It is our life.”

The 2011 utilizes fruit of Shake Ridge Vineyard, and carries a greener, toastier nose, with light green melon and wild berry. The palate again shows that powdered touch on an earthy pepper palate and a berry tang finish. This wine is juicy in the mouth, with a drying finish. It does drink with the lightness of white wine, showing, compared to the 2010, a younger, stronger structure with pleasant lift, and a freshness and liveliness pumping through it.

The 2011 Dirty & Rowdy Semillon

In 2011 Hardy & Matt added Semillon from Yountville to their portfolio. Interested, again, in generating a wine with the mixed qualities not necessarily typical of the grape, they chose to do two separate fermentations that would be blended after.

The ton of Semillon was split into two lots, half de-stemmed and fermented in an open top with vigorous tred. The wine fermented easily and was never racked generating a lot of juice. The second lot was half pressed, with everything going into a concrete egg. The fermentation, however, was slow to start so Wallace took a small portion of juice from the first lot and added it in. Fermentation then took off, and when complete the wine was racked into barrels. After, both lots were blended back together.

The 2011 Semillon shows a nose of dusty, citrus brightness with apricot, and very light pineapple hints. The palate is vibrant, totally avoiding Semillon’s potential for fattiness in the mouth. The wine carries a dusty, grippy finish.

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Congratulations to the Dirty & Rowdy family on the birth of their wine label TO-DAY. (p.s. Yours is my favorite wine t-shirt. I wore it all over Oregon yesterday to boost the love in anticipation of your release.)

If you are interested in purchasing Dirty & Rowdy wines they are available via mailing list. You can sign up with your name and address via email to: info (at) dirtyandrowdy (dot) com.

They are also being distributed in New York by Jenny & Francois Selections.

Thank you so much to Hardy Wallace and Kate Graham.

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