Hawk Wakawaka Wine Reviews

Sommelier Superhero: Carla Rzeszewski is Faith

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Jul 17, 2013

As some of you know, I have an ongoing series that has rested dormant for several months drawing Winemaker Superheroes. Abe Schoener opened the genre as Thor. Jason Lett stepped in as Dr Who (Matt Smith’s rendition, to be specific). Angela Osborne appeared as the 8th Major Arcana from Tarot, Justice. Steve Clifton was clearly Superman. In the midst of the series I also drew one Superhero Wine Writer, Jeremy Parzen, of Do Bianchi. Only a few have been drawn in the Winemaker Superhero Series (one because it takes a lot of work but also) because not just anyone can be a superhero. There must be something iconic in the person, a character that exemplifies archetypal traits and symbolism. Recently I had an epiphany for a Superhero Sommelier, and finally have had the time to draw her.

Carla Rzeszewski as the First of the Tarot Major Arcana: 0 – Faith

click on comic to enlarge

Quickly Explaining Symbolism of the Tarot: The Major Arcana

In Tarot, the Major Arcana represent large themes and lessons through a person’s life. There are 21 Major Arcana, each symbolizing a crucial turning point in an individual’s life path. The Minor Arcana (which resemble the cards of a traditional card deck with four suits, numbers 1-10, and royal suites), by contrast, represent decisions that must be made, but of a more everyday nature. Major Arcana are life changing. However, prior to the start of the count of these major lesson cards there is a card marked 0, which represents the pure soul setting out guided only by intuition and good intention to journey forth on the right path whatever it may offer. The card for this journeyer is traditionally called “The Fool,” with the idea of the fool here understood to mean the pure soul, the one that is not muddied by preconceived ideas, or strict knowledge. Instead, the fool travels forth in faith not knowing what the path will bring, instead knowing only that they will face the lessons with open heart and determined foot. The fool is the person guided by synchronicity, assisted by their own commitment to follow what is right for them. With such a figure in mind, the card is occasionally called instead “Faith.”

The deepest lessons from Faith are these. The path is only ever your own–you have been hand chosen to walk it and so it belongs to you. Though you are the only one that can take the particular journey, and you will gain in doing so, it is when you walk it in dedication to something bigger than yourself you receive the greatest gain.

The card also always shows an animal of some sort that brings warning and instinct to the traveler when needed. In most decks the animal appears as a small dog.

Carla Rzeszewski as Faith

In recognizing an interest in wine, Carla Rzeszewski dove into wine study while working as a bartender, finding herself with a sort of special attention for sherry and champagne. Soon after finding her love for the beverage, she was offered the opportunity to become wine director for several new restaurants in New York City. As I understand the story, the reality of stepping directly from bartender into director of a wine program intimidated her mightily. However, one of Rzeszewski’s beliefs is that if you decide you want something, you had better be prepared to embrace it and act for it when it presents itself to you. She accepted the position. Since, Rzeszewski has not only sculpted the direction of multiple wine programs in New York, but also continued her studies in wine by traveling directly to focal point regions, tasting widely, and working with other committed individuals in wine. She has served as a member of tasting panels for the New York Times, been profiled in the Wall Street Journal, and spoken at the Inaugural Women in Wine Leadership Conference held last year in New York. She has also consistently offered encouragement to others to hunt and follow their beloved goals.

Rzeszewski represents the figure of Faith from the Tarot in her hunt-the-path patience-determination combo, her open to the life-that-comes passion, her heart that flows in love and exuberance. She is guided here by a bird of creative vision, the symbol of timelessness. In flying highest, with widest wing, this bird offers insight into the full arc of life’s path from the start of flight, all the way into its transformation at times end. It is this broad vision that allows Faith to face any adventure without having to know in advance what will be. In such flight comes clarity and calm. Through her openness, the path she walks is vibrant and rich, represented by the colors shown here throughout.

In her work with wine, Rzeszewski’s choices reflect this same creativity and exploration, a playfulness grounded in dedication to her work. Her love for her work, and the people around her is infectious. It is her friendship that most readily showcases her enthusiasm.

***
Thank you to Carla Rzeszewski for your good heart. With much love.

***

To read more about, and hear more from Carla Rzeszewski:

In a recent episode of In the Drink with Joe Campanale: http://www.heritageradionetwork.com/episodes/4248-In-the-Drink-Carla-Rzeszewski

Sporting her own damn trading card on Eater NY with Levi Dalton:
http://ny.eater.com/archives/2013/05/the_spotted_pigs_carla_rzeszewski_on_her_googamooga_experience.php

Getting into Why Sherry? in the Village Voice with Lauren Mowry: http://blogs.villagevoice.com/forkintheroad/2013/04/carla_rzeszewsk_queen_sherry.php

An interview with Maggie Hoffman on which wines age well: http://drinks.seriouseats.com/2012/07/what-wines-age-well-buying-wine-tips-ask-a-sommelier-carla-rzeszewski-spotted-pig.html

A interview on I’ll Drink to That with Levi Dalton: http://soyouwanttobeasommelier.blogspot.com/2012/11/carla-rzeszewski-is-on-ill-drink-to-that.html

Super fun Lady Somm Style with Whitney Adams: http://www.brunelloshavemorefun.com/2012/04/lady-somm-style-carla-rzeszewski/

Super star in the Wall Street Journal with Jay McInernery: http://online.wsj.com/article/SB10001424052970204909104577237530327096346.html

There is so much more great stuff online with Carla. These are just a few of my favorites.

Touring Lodi, Day 4:

California

Hawk Wakawaka

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Jul 15, 2013

4

Visiting the outer AVAs

On Day 4 of touring Lodi we focused primarily on traveling the regions that circle the Mokelumne River. Heading East, the land rises in undulating curves towards the Sierra Foothills, heading North the ground lifts in a mesa giving an elevated while still flat presentation. The ground heading North and East takes on more rocks and silt compared to the sandy ground of the Mokelumne. The Lodi AVAs as a whole also celebrate a coastal influence, receiving cooling breezes through the gap on the Northern edge of Mt Diablo, with air from the ocean, and bay pushing over the entire Lodi region. As a result, the Lodi area is cooler than the rest of the Central Valley. The delta breeze lessens in the Northeastern AVAs, however, with a slightly higher temperature range there as a result.

Touring and Tasting with Markus Bokisch: Clements Hills, Borden Ranch, Sloughhouse AVAs

We met Markus Bokisch at his vineyard office in the Clements Hills, east of Lodi. Markus grows vines through multiple sub-AVAs throughout the Lodi region, and also makes wine under the Bokisch label. After tasting through a portion of his portfolio we went through a driving tour of the three other appellations.

Markus Bokisch’s family originates from Spain, where he continues to spend time during part of the year. In his vineyard office rests a grain thresher sled from the Pyrenees made of limestone chips and repurposed metal–bits of horseshoe and old saw blades could be seen in the strips.

We began by tasting through Bokisch Vineyards wines. The line up keeps an Iberian focus offering great value throughout. Here: Albarino, Garnacha Bianca, Monastrell, Tempranillo, Graciano. The wines are all made from Bokisch Vineyard fruit.

Traveling through the outer AVAs of the Lodi region include large bands of golden grasses. These stretches are largely protected under federal laws. One of the peculiar aspects of land development in the Central Valley region is protection of vernal pools. Here Markus stands on the edge of a vernal pool. The soils through the region develop a hard pan just below the surface that makes it difficult for plant roots to go very deep, but also for water to drain. As a result rains pool in low spots (here seen through the color variation of the grasses–the lighter spots are evaporated pools) and the water, unable to drain, evaporates slowly. There is a wealth of plant and animal life native only to these pools. In the 1990s protections went into place after realizing many of these creatures were on the endangered species list. Agricultural development is now limited as a result with large swaths of land belonging to vernal pool easement zones.

Coyote Thistle grows in the same environmental conditions as the endangered fairy shrimp, thus serving as an indication of a pool area that likely also houses the shrimp.

In the Borden Ranch AVA the earth rolls in a slow climb to the Sierra Foothills, housing too large boulders and redder earth through the vineyards. Here Markus shows us one such rock.

Markus Bokisch

Markus is currently developing a new vineyard site in the Sloughhouse AVA, a region that stands at slightly higher elevation, with more hill effects, and a little less wind than the other regions. The ground is dominated by boulders. Looking over a high point in his upcoming Sheldon Hills Vineyard.

Tasting Cochon and Odisea with Adam Webb

Adam Webb tasted us through his Odisea (Iberian focused) and Cochon (French focused) wines over lunch. He sources fruit from multiple regions in California but especially from the Lodi AVAs, including several of Markus Bokisch’s vineyards, and Ron Silva’s SilvaSpoons. The wines all offer a juicy, flavorful, light touch presentation of the fruit.

the white and rosé line up from Cochon and Odisea.

the red line up from Odisea and Cochon

Drinking Italian at Sorelle Winery

After developing California windmill technology, Mike Scott invested in developing a new vineyard at the southern most boundary of the Lodi AVA, just north of Stockton leading to what is now known as Sorelle Winery.

At the Dodge House property, Sorelle grows 3/4 acre of Sangiovese (shown here), and 3/4 of an acre of Barbera. They also source small portions of fruit from other vineyards.

The Sorelle label focuses entirely on Italian style wines (including a Super Tuscan inspired blend).

Looking into the Barbera vines.

Sorelle Winery

Visiting Silva Spoons Vineyard in Alta Mesa AVA

In the Alta Mesa AVA, north of Lodi, Ron Silva has developed his SilvaSpoons Vineyard offering a mix of Bordeaux varieties but specializing in Portuguese grapes. His family originates in Portugal, where he also visits, and as he explains, he wants to connect to what his family ate and drank. As part of that he grows Portuguese grapes here, and offers what is one of the more diverse collections of vines from that region in California. Here Ron shows us his newly planted Alvarelho.

The Silva Spoons Vineyard has an impressive number of Portuguese varieties growing, including here the Trincadeiro near the house.

Looking into the Trincadeiro.

Ron’s vineyards are all sustainably farmed. He produces his own compost for the vineyards.

Discussing the Torrontes. Ron grows the only Torrontes vineyard in North America.

Torrontes

He also keeps cattle, and a few Berkshire pigs.

For dinner Ron served us traditional Portuguese food. Here he makes his bacalhau–dried cod soaked, then mixed with potato, olive oil (made from Ron’s own trees), egg, and olives.

beginning to taste whites made with Silva Spoons fruit. The Alta Mesa label is Ron’s.

Starting dinner with friends outside.

Tasting reds made from Silva Spoons fruit.

Finishing dinner with a Portuguese night cap.

***
Thank you to Randy Caparoso.

Thank you to Markus Bokisch.

Thank you to Adam Webb.

Thank you to Ron Silva and Kathy.

Touring Lodi Wine, Day 3

California

Hawk Wakawaka

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Jul 12, 2013

2

Going East into the Clements Hills AVA

Yesterday, touring Lodi started in the Clements Hills AVA, a region that lines up alongside Calaveras County line and sees the influences of the Sierra foothills both through soils that carry more gravel and through a rising of the ground.

We began the day at the 1940s-planted vineyard Dogtown, a dry farmed Zinfandel planting that has been farmed by Turley since 1997. The site grows from subtle undulations in the ground with low, thick stalked old vines twisting from the red-brown soil. In summer, even with the low density of leaves on these vines, the color contrasts, and subtle curves of the field are stunning. The region is more pastoral than much of the Mokelumne AVA that hugs the edges of town. I wanted to stand inside of Dogtown and just stay there quiet for most of the day.

Tegan Passalacqua tasting us through three vintages of Turley Dogtown Zinfandel in the Dogtown Vineyard.

Looking over Dogtown. It’s hard to do justice to the site in photo.

looking East in Dogtown, the Sierras are visible in the distance

the older vines acclimate to their site so that even dry farmed, these vines are healthy producing smaller clusters to generate the amount of fruit readily manageable for their age and without being fed water.

the site has some young vines interplanted dating to 1997 when Turley began working with the site. Young vines are often compared to teenagers biting off more than they can chew. In comparison to older vines, young vines will produce a bush of leaves and larger fruit, but are also more susceptible to stress from seasonal influences like heat spikes. Here Tegan shows the contrast in cluster size between a young vine cluster on top, and an old vine cluster on bottom. The difference means a different concentration of flavor. Young vine Zinfandel is bottled in Turley’s Juvenile Zin. The old vine sites are bottled on their own named for their vineyard.

tasting three vintages of Dogtown: the not yet released 2011, a favorite 2010, and Turley’s first vintage at Dogtown 1997

Visiting Kirschenmann Vineyard, Mokelumne River AVA

Tegan also took us to visit his Kirschenmann Vineyard in the Peninsula region on the Eastside of the Mokelumne River AVA. The site was planted in 1915. Most of it is planted to old vine Zinfandel, a new bottling for Turley, but other varieties find their home there as well. Here Tegan stands in front of a new project. He is establishing Chenin Blanc on the property.

looking into Kirschenmann Pinot Gris, fruit used by Scholium Project, Forlorn Hope, and Bedrock Wines

old vine Zinfandel on Kirschenmann

Standing amidst old Zinfandel vines in the neighboring Schmeidt Vineyard with Tegan

first sampling of the Kirschenmann Vineyard Zinfandel in the vineyard, a new bottling for Turley; tasting Turley’s Bechtholdt Cinsault, and the 1997 Spenker Ranch Zinfandel, the last vintage Turley worked with that vineyard (two sites we visited earlier in the trip)

Old Town Lodi for Lunch

Visiting Noma Vineyard and Rous Vineyard, Mokelumne River AVA

Tim Holdener took us to an unusual site, a 100 year old dry farmed vineyard found in the middle of the town of Lodi surrounded on both sides by industrial buildings. Vines were originally planted through the entire stretch of town but most were torn out to make room for other businesses. The last of the vineyard was saved and today Tim makes some of his Macchia Wines with the fruit. Through his label Tim focuses on single vineyard Zinfandel bottlings from throughout the region. The vines at Noma are intensely small, growing canes no more than a foot in length, and ultra tiny clusters. The flavors produced are concentrated as a result, but Tim tells us these are also consistently high acid vines, even with riper sugar levels.

Tim Holdener has been working with Noma fruit for the last ten years

in the middle of the vineyard the size of the vines changes as the access to water likely changes. these are among the largest of the vines on the site

after visiting Noma we went down the street a little bit to see the Rous vineyard, a small 1909 St George rootstock planted site that Tim gets 5 acres from

the vines of Rous vineyard also produce small clusters of fruit, but grow larger canes and height as they are supported through irrigation. Zinfandel through Lodi is in the midst of celebrating veraison

tasting Macchia Zinfandels, both Noma Vineyard fruit 2011 Outrageous, and Rous Vineyard fruit 2011 Luxurious at the Rous Vineyard

Visiting Fields Family Wines, Mokelumne River AVA

Ryan Sherman

Russ Fields and Ryan Sherman got together and started Fields Family Winery releasing 2008 as their first commercial vintage. Today they make between 1000-1200 cases depending. Ryan jokes they perform caveman winemaking, utilizing no tanks, no glycol chilling or temperature control beyond moving bins into a colder room or out into the warmer air. They gravity rack by lifting the barrel up on a forklift. It works.

FIelds Family makes a series of Rhone wines drawing Syrah from the Fields Family Estate Vineyard. We were able to barrel taste through the current vintage of Syrah, as well as their Grenache and Mourvedre separately and the three together. Their Grenache and Mourvedre will likely only be bottled as a GSM though their samples show wine I’d be interested in tasting on their own.

Fields Family focuses on small lots from vineyards on the Eastside of Mokelumne River AVA. We tasted Tempranillo, Sangiovese, Petite Sirah, and Zinfandel, among others. Their Syrah was one of my favorites.

Russ Fields standing beside Syrah vines

After tasting through Fields Family Wines we visited the Fields Family Estate Syrah planting alongside the winery, and then traveled to an unusual site of 35 Syrah vines planted in the 1960s that Russ and Ryan have just started working with, the Ambassador Vineyard.

looking into the small clusters of older vine Syrah at the Ambassador Vineyard

***
Thank you to Randy Caparoso.

Thank you to the Fields and Sherman Families for hosting me and having me for dinner.

Thank you to Tegan Passalacqua.

Thank you to Tim Holdener.

Attending Ribolla Gialla University, Part 8: Friuli Fest 2013

California

Hawk Wakawaka

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Jul 11, 2013

1

The Ribolla Gialla Seminar Year 4, 2013

As some of you know George Vare started what has become an annual tradition of tasting Ribolla Gialla from all of its regions with the focus of learning and improving quality of Ribolla made in California. Winemakers gather with devoted wine lover supporters to share in depth information about their picking and vinification choices. The group tastes the wine and discusses its successes and potentials for fine tuning.

Year 4 marks the first such celebration without George there to act as Master of Ceremonies for wine made from his 2 1/2 acre Ribolla Gialla planting. Though plantings of Ribolla in California are still under 7 total acres, the grape is slowly rooting in further locations. There are now 2 vineyards in Napa, 1 in Carneros, and another in Russian River.

Following are photos from the event held yesterday at the home of Steve and Jill Klein Matthiasson. with love to George. with thanks to Steve and Jill. for friends. such a community of friends are these.

Nathan Roberts, Arnot-Roberts, and son

Ryan Glaab, Ryme

Matthew Rorick, Forlorn Hope

Steve Matthiasson and Robbie Meyers open Friuli Fest 2013

Robbie Meyers, Grassi Wine, discusses the 2012 Grassi Vare Ribolla Gialla and making wine with George Vare

Dan Petroski, Massican Wines, discusses the 2012 Annia Ribolla Gialla blend, and working with both Vare Vineyard and Bowland Vineyard Ribolla Gialla.

Matthew Rorick, Forlorn Hope Wines, discusses the 2011 Forlorn Hope Vare Vineyard Ribolla Gialla, 14-days on skins

Jill and Steve Klein Matthiasson, Matthiasson Wines, share their 2011 Vare Vineyard Ribolla Gialla, and 2010 Matthiasson Vineyard Ribolla Gialla

Duncan Meyers and Nathan Roberts, Arnot-Roberts, share their 2012 4-hrs on press Vare Ribolla Gialla, and 2012 amphora Ribolla Gialla

Megan and Ryan Glaab, Ryme Cellars, discuss their 2012 barrel sample, and 2010 bottling Vare Vineyard Ribolla Gialla

Grassi 2012 Vare, Massican 2012 Annia, Arnot-Roberts 2012 Press, 2012 Amphora, Matthiasson 2011 Vare, 2010 Matthiasson, Forlorn Hope 2011 Vare, Ryme 2010 Vare

Thank you to Jill and Steve Klein Matthiasson for hosting.

Thank you to the winemakers for sharing.

***

For previous posts in this series:

Attending Ribolla Gialla University, Part 1: Meeting George Vare: http://wakawakawinereviews.com/2012/07/19/attending-ribolla-gialla-university-part-1-meeting-george-vare/

Attending Ribolla Gialla University, Part 2: (A Life in Wine) George Vare, Friuli and Slovenia: http://wakawakawinereviews.com/2012/07/19/attending-ribolla-gialla-university-part-2-a-life-in-wine-george-vare-friuli-and-slovenia/

Attending Ribolla Gialla University, Part 3: Friuli Fest 2012, Ribolla Gialla Tasting and Discussion: http://wakawakawinereviews.com/2012/07/19/attending-ribolla-gialla-university-part-3-friuli-fest-2012-ribolla-gialla-tasting-and-discussion/

Attending Ribolla Gialla University, Part 4: Harvest of the George Vare Vineyard with Steve Matthiasson: http://wakawakawinereviews.com/2012/09/14/attending-ribolla-gialla-university-part-4-harvest-of-the-george-vare-vineyard-with-steve-matthiasson/

Attending Ribolla Gialla University, Part 5: Russian River Valley Ribolla Gialla, The Bowland’s Tanya Vineyard: http://wakawakawinereviews.com/2012/09/29/attending-ribolla-gialla-university-part-5-russian-river-valley-ribolla-gialla/

Attending Ribolla Gialla University, Part 6: The Vare Vineyard Tasting, Arlequin Wine Merchant: Attending Ribolla Gialla University, Part 6: The Vare Vineyard Tasting, Arlequin Wine Merchant

Attending Ribolla Gialla University, Part 7: The Matthiasson Vineyard, Napa: http://wakawakawinereviews.com/2013/05/01/attending-ribolla-gialla-university-part-7-the-matthiasson-vineyard-napa/

Touring Lodi Wine, Day 2

California

Hawk Wakawaka

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Jul 10, 2013

1

Traveling the Mokelumne River AVA

When traveling intensively through a wine region it is difficult to post in depth information. Instead, I try to post photos from the day as I go to offer a glimpse of the activities and appellation. More in depth write-ups of the region, and particular people and wines will follow later.

On Day 2 of touring Lodi we focused on unique old vine sites throughout the Mokelumne River AVA, looking at vineyards on both the West and East sides. The day took us through a wealth of old vine Zinfandel tastings, and also a series of encounters with Rhone varieties (yum).

a canal from the Mokelumne River separates old vine vineyards on the Westside

Visiting Bechthold Vineyards 1886 Cinsault Planting

One of Joseph Spenker’s first vineyard, the 25 acre 1885 Cinsault planting exists today thanks to pride in tradition and family heritage. The fruit was unknown, called Malvoise for almost a century. It was recognized as a dark, thick skinned grape that made soft wine and sold for only $200-250 per ton. The family lost money on it every year. Almost ready to pull it out, the family took up conversation with a UC Davis faculty member and agreed to send samples out for DNA identification of the vines. It was discovered that the Malvoise was actually Cinsault, the oldest such vineyard in North America, and one of the oldest in the world. With grape type identified better vineyard and vinification handling could also be brought. Almost immediately after renaming the vines, Randall Grahm of Bonny Doon started sourcing the fruit for his Cigare Volant program. Today wineries such as Onesta, Estate Crush, Turley, and Scholium Project all also utilize Bechthold fruit.

Onesta 2011 Cinsault from the Bechthold Vineyard. Onesta also makes rosé from the site.

Tasting Estate Crush 2012 barrel sample Cinsault from Bechthold Vineyard with Nick Sikeotis.

Inspecting the Cinsault (some of the clusters were showing early veraison)

Standing in the old vines

Visiting Soucie Vineyard, Old Vine Zinfandel, planted in 1916

Ed Soucie

Kevin Soucie standing in his family vineyard, planted in 1916. 6 acres of the original 1916 vines still in tact. Kevin also manages the vineyard.

Tasting M2 wine’s Soucie Vineyard 2011 Old Vine Zinfandel, and 2010 Select Block in among the 1916 vines with Layne Montgomery.

Visiting Maley Vineyard, planted in 1958

Tasting wine made from the Maley Brothers 1958 planted Old Vine Zinfandel from M2 Wines, and Maley Wines at vineyard side.

Winemaker Chad Joseph walking among the 1958 planted Maley Vineyard

Randy Caparoso inspecting the Zinfandel

Zinfandel in veraison

Visiting Lot 13, planted in 1915

Michael McCay standing next to one of his favorite vines of 1915 planted Zinfandel in his Lot 13 Vineyard

Tasting McCay Cellars reds

Tasting McCay Cellars Zinfandels

Attending the Lodi Native Zinfandel Terroir Project Meeting, and Tasting

The Lodi Native group meeting reviewing notes to prepare for Zinfandel tasting

Winemaker Chad Joseph, Maley Wines

Vineyard Manager Kevin Soucie, Soucie Vineyards

Winemaker Stuart Spencer, St Amant Wines

Winemaker Layne Montgomery, M2 Wines

Winemaker Ryan Sherman, Fields Family Wines

Winemaker Michael McCay, McCay Cellars

Visiting Acquiesce Vineyards and Winery

Sue Tipton of Acquiesce Vineyards pouring her 2012 Grenache Blanc

Chalk drawing from a recent visitor outside the Acquiesce Winery on our way to the vineyards

Sue Tipton shows us her Grenache Blanc

Tasting the Grenache Blanc with dinner

Rodney Tipton serving the next course for dinner

Acquiesce makes all Rhone whites, and a Rhone rosé, a fun close to the day. Tasting them with dinner.

***
Thank you to Randy Caparoso.

Thank you to Nick Sikeotis, Jillian Johnson, and Yuri DeLeon.

Thank you to Ed and Kevin Soucie, and Layne Montgomery.

Thank you to Chad Joseph.

Thank you to Michael McCay for taking the time to return to Lodi to meet with us.

Thank you to Ryan Sherman, Stuart Spencer, Tim Holdener.

Thank you to Sue and Rodney Tipton for so generously hosting us for dinner.

Touring + Tasting Lodi Wine: Day 1

California

Hawk Wakawaka

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Jul 9, 2013

0

Lodi East Side

This week I’m touring Lodi Wine, visiting older vineyards, and meeting with smaller producers through the region’s 7 AVAs. Randy Caparoso has been kind enough to organize an itinerary for me through the area. The region holds some of the highest concentration of old vines in the state, with a rich history of family farmers now readily five and six generations deep. Some of the vineyards we’re visiting are owned by the original families that started them in the late 1800s.

When traveling like this it is hard to do in depth posts as I’m generally out for more than half the clock day. Instead I try to post photos from each day as we go. Here’s a visit to part of our first day, all such good people.

We spent yesterday visiting sites on the East side of the Mokelumne River. The soils are predominately sand with water tables between 50 and 100 ft deep, depending on site. As a result, many of the old vines grow from Vitis vinifera roots, rather than American root stock. Phylloxera doesn’t do well in sand.

Looking into Old vine Zinfandel–the plants themselves are a mass of biodiversity offering home to other types of plants, and a mix of animals.

Though Lodi wine is commonly associated with Zinfandel, and with hot climate grapes, the region is cooler than the Central Valley that surrounds it receiving the benefits of the gap coming through from the San Francisco Bay and hitting the delta region South of Sacramento. Two deep water sea channels operate in the area–one at the State Capitol, the other South in Stockton.

Visiting Lizzy James Vineyard, and Harney Lane Wines

Lizzy James Vineyard, established in 1904, hosts a field of impressively varied Zinfandel showing massive size and clonal diversity over 20 acres.

Winemaker Chad Joseph is able to bottle Zinfandel from Lizzy James specifically for Harney Lane Wines.

Harney Lane also grows a mix of both white and red grapes on the Eastern side of Lodi. Kyle Lerner manages the vineyards. Inspecting Primitivo

Harney Lane Winery

Grape tonnage ledger from the 1920s, Mettler Family

lunch at Harney Lane

Jorja and Kyle Lerner

Visiting Marian’s Block, Mohr-Fry Ranch

Stuart Spencer is a second generation vineyard manager, winemaker. His father Tim moved the family winery into the Lodi region and began helping area grape growers make wine from their fruit, thus giving them access to their own product in a new way.

Stuart works with Bruce (left) and Jerry (right) Fry, of Mohr-Fry Ranch, to make wine from their 9 acre 1901 planted Marian’s Block Zinfandel. The site is also working with the Historical Vineyard Society to determine clonal information for their planting, as it appears to be unique in the area. The site is also Sustainably Farm Certified.

Mohr-Fry Ranch grows a wealth of other grape types as well as heirloom beans, gluten free flours and other vegetable crops. (They also have 20 peacocks.) Marian’s Block is named for Jerry’s mother.

Vertical tasting of St Amant Marian’s Block (100% 1901 planting) Old Vine Zinfandel–2004, 2007, 2010, 2011. The flavors on these wines are intensely concentrated, without being over extracted.

Tasting Borra Vineyards Wines

Winemaker Markus Niggli works with fruit from Borra Vineyards to make a mix of Rhone inspired wines, Petite Sirah blends, and newer bottlings focused on Kerner blends. The Kerner project should be surprising for anyone not familiar with Lodi, but a range of white grapes do well in the region when handled properly.

some of the Borra Vineyards wines

the Kerner blend wines: the 2012 Artist Series, a blend of Kerner and Riesling; the 2010 and 2011 Intuition, blends of Kerner, Riesling, and Gewurztraminer

Jon and Molly Bjork generously hosted dinner in their home.

***

Thank you to Randy Caparoso.

Thank you to Jon and Molly Bjork.

Thank you to Jorja and Kyle Lerner, and Chad Joseph.

Thank you to Stuart Spencer and Camron King.

Thank you to Jerry and Bruce Fry–I can’t wait to see that harvester in September.

Exploring Santa Lucia Highlands: Sommelier Journal Terroir Experience, Day 3

California

Hawk Wakawaka

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Jun 27, 2013

2

An Intensive in the Santa Lucia Highlands

Our third and final day touring focused entirely on the Santa Lucia Highlands.The AVA rest along the benchland above the Salinas Valley reaching up to as high as 1200 ft elevation. The region primarily grows Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, with some other cooler climate grapes also growing such as Riesling, Gewurtztraminer, and Syrah.

Visiting Mer Soieil

tasting with the winemakers in the Mer Soleil Vineyards

Visiting Double-L Vineyard and Morgan Winery

vineyard side Pinot clone tasting

with the Morgan winemaker

Touring McIntyre Vineyard

investigating the Santa Lucia Highland soils with Steve McIntyre

Climbing to the top of Hahn Vineyards

looking across at the Hahn winery from the top of their Smith Vineyard

view from the top of Smith Vineyard

Touring the Pisoni Vineyards with the Pisoni brothers

talking farming in the vines with Mark Pisoni

walking to Gary’s Vineyard, the Pisoni-Fransconi project

talking budding new grape vines with Mark Pisoni

tasting in the new vineyard with Jeff Pisoni

approaching the Pisoni compound

wines from the Pisoni vineyards

Tasting at Tondre Grapefields with Joe Alarid

Joe Alarid, owner Tondre Grapefields Vineyard

wines of the Tondre Grapefields Vineyards

***

Huge thanks to the winegrowers of Santa Lucia Highlands. It was a huge, really well organized day.

Thank you to David Vogels, Phil Vogels, and Randy Caparoso.

Exploring the Santa Cruz Mountains, Chalone, Arroyo Seco: Sommelier Journal Terroir Experience, Day 2

California

Hawk Wakawaka

-

Jun 26, 2013

0

Exploring the Santa Cruz Mountains: Corralitos Region & Pleasant Valley

We continued our exploration of the Santa Cruz Mountains, focusing this morning on the Southern portions around Corralitos and Pleasant Valley, before then continuing South into Chalone AVA, and Arroyo Seco AVA.

Visiting Windy Oaks

tasting Pinot Noir at the ridge of Windy Oaks Vineyard

looking West through the rows of Jim’s block

the view West from Jim’s block, Windy Oaks Vineyard

Windy Oaks Pinot Noir

Lunch & Tasting at Lester Family Vineyards, Corralitos & Pleasant Valley

Prudy Foxx, Lester Family Vineyard viticulturist

Visiting and Tasting Chalone AVA

Jon Brosseau, viticulturist

Bill Brosseau, winemaker Brosseau Wines

Brosseau Vineyard

own rooted Chardonnay, Brosseau Vineyard

Chris Cottrell, Bedrock Wines

Copain Chardonnays 2009-2011

Tour of, Tasting, and Dinner at Arroyo Seco

looking through old vines, Arroyo Seco

Jeff Meier, J. Lohr Wines

Griva Vineyard

discussing the Arroyo Seco AVA

Rick Smith, Paraiso Springs Vineyards

tasting at the old barn

Bruce Sterten, Ventana Wines

the Chesbros, Chesbro Wines

Luis Zabala, viticulturist, and Roger Moitoso, winemaker Scott Wines

Tom Stutz, winemaker La Rochelle Wines

***

Thank you to Megan Metz, and the Santa Cruz Mountains Winegrowers Association.

Thank you to the Brosseau Family, and the winemakers of the Chalone AVA.

Thank you to the winegrowers and winemakers of the Arroyo Seco AVA.

Thank you to David Vogels, Phil Vogels, and Randy Caparoso.

All the best to Justin.

Exploring the Santa Cruz Mountains: Sommelier Journal Terroir Experience, Day 1

California

Hawk Wakawaka

-

Jun 25, 2013

1

Sommelier Journal hosts an annual Terroir Experience tour of a wine region. Currently a few of us are deep in the Santa Cruz Mountains on their 2013 trip. Following are photos of Day 1, touring the Santa Cruz Mountain AVA. The appellation is defined by its presence above the fog line (all above 800 ft), and its mountain topography. At its inception in 1981, it was one of the first US appellations to be defined by mountain geography. It is also known for being sparsely populated. We toured Monday in full fog, it lifting a couple times for partial view.

Visiting Mt Eden Vineyard and Winery with Jeffrey Patterson

Jeffrey Patterson, winemaker Mt Eden

looking into the chardonnay and fog, Mt Eden

the group gathering on the edge of the vineyards

on the deck listening to Jeffrey Patterson discuss the AVA and vineyard

getting ready to taste

Mt Eden wines

Visiting Ridge Monte Bello with Eric Baugher

arriving at the Ridge Monte Bello Winery with winemaker Eric Baugher

barrel tasting the 2012 Ridge Monte Bello

barrel tasting the 2012 Ridge Geyserville

Lunch at House Family Vineyards, and tasting with other wineries

entering House Family Vineyards

looking through the Cabernet vines, House Family Vineyards

House Family VIneyards

sitting with Michael Martella of Fogarty Vineyards

sitting with Eric Baugher, Ridge Vineyards

Kathryn Kennedy 1997 Cabernet

Jerold O’Brien with his 2010 Silver Mountain Chardonnay

Visiting Thomas Fogarty Winery & Vineyards

Tommie Fogarty, proprieter, and Nathan Kendler, winemaker, Thomas Fogarty

clone 4 Chardonnay, Thomas Fogarty Vineyards

listening to Nathan Kandler describe the Thomas Fogarty terroir

looking up at the Thomas Fogarty winery buildings

looking through the Damiana Vineyard Chardonnay, Thomas Fogarty

Marshall opening the Portola Springs Vineyard Chardonnay

***
Thank you to the Santa Cruz Winemaker Association.

Thank you to David Vogels, Phil Vogels and Randy Caparoso.

A Gift of Mt Ararat: Zorah’s 2011 Karasi Areni Noir

Hawk Wakawaka

-

Jun 20, 2013

2

Drinking Wine from Mt Ararat

click on comic to enlarge

On the slopes of Mt Ararat in Armenia at an elevation of 4600 ft/1400 m grow Areni Noir vines established 12 years ago. Though the land was undeveloped at the start of the Zorah project, local village knowledge traces the site to old vineyards back at least to the 19th century. Zorik Gharibian began the project after first searching several years for land, also studying the climate and soil conditions through two Italian viticultural universities.

Gharibian’s family originates in Armenia. However, during the Soviet Union they migrated into Iran, where Gharibian was born. After the disposal of the Shah, Gharibian moved to Venice completing his education at an Armenian boarding school there. Growing up with an Armenian education, Gharibian’s dream had been to visit his ancestral country. In 1998, with the fall of the Soviet Union he finally got the chance. There he fell in love with the culture and countryside and began a business that would bring him back regularly for years. His hope became too to find land. As he describes it, Gharibian has long been a wine lover. His time in Armenia led him to great appreciation for the richness of Armenian wine culture and quality as well.

The Search for Land

After the demise of the Soviet Union’s control over Armenia, the country’s land was distributed among residents producing a collection of small parcels. Homes and land in the villages, then, belong to its residents. Though the property ownership system is admirable, it proved difficult for Gharibian who wanted to invest to his family’s homeland. The creation of a vineyard would depend on having a more sizeable parcel but to purchase enough for planting would mean buying land from people that would then be uprooted without homes. Gharibian was unwilling to take such a route. Instead, he kept searching for other possibilities. Eventually, Gharibian found that in the area he’d already been looking was a larger size parcel that was owned by the village as a whole, rather than any one person, and had been dormant for decades. The land proved invaluable for vineyard development as well, full of rocky soils and bands of limestone with a 20 degree Celcius/68 Farenheit diurnal shift, and enough dryness to avoid issues of mildew. He was able, then, to buy the property from the village and invest in its development. As he’s grown he’s invested in organic practices as well.

Because of his commitment to Armenian wine and culture, Gharibian has chosen to develop the Zorah project using only indigenous grapes. Working with Alberto Antonini as the oenologist, and Stefano Bartolomei as the viticulturalist, Gharibian has worked by planting small experimental parcels to determine the best planting style and grape types for the site. As they’ve gathered insight they’ve then expanded the plantings. With phylloxera never arriving in the Yeghegnadzor region in which Zorah grows, the vines are established on own roots.

Considering their Method

Currently, Zorah focuses centrally on the Areni Noir grape, the country’s signature variety believed to originate in the Southern regions of Armenia thousands of years ago. Gharibian tells me the team is developing a white wine project as well, but only slowly. The slower pace, he explains, arises from a commitment to creating only the highest quality, but it also comes from the remoteness of their location. “There are no examples here to draw from. So, we do trials and try things.” He explains, “We cannot ask our neighbors what they did. We have to start from scratch. I do not want to rush because I started this from passion.”

The oldest known wineries in the world have been found in Armenia dating back over 6100 years. Gharibian explains that in studying the ancient winemaking methods of the region, “Zorah is using an updated version of the same techniques.” The wine is primarily made in karasi, with a third being put in French and Armenian oak. Gharibian’s view is that the karasi concentrate the expression of the fruit, allowing a greater focus on site, a view shared by Italian winemaker, Elisabetta Foradori in her use of Spanish clay tinajas. Recently, the Zorah team has begun experimenting with fermentation in cement tanks as well.

Drinking the Wine

2010 marked the first vintage release for Zorah’s Karasi. The wine was initially released in Britain, with the 2011 just now arriving in the United States. I was thrilled to receive the bottle for sample, and even more pleased to enjoy the wine itself. The 2011 Karasi gives a smooth, lush presentation with a feel of refined wildness. The wine has poise and shares its passionate roots as well. Areni Noir offers a beautiful light side of medium weight (comparable to the presence of the grape Blaufrankisch), moving the flavors through an open mid-palate and long finish. The focus is on a lightly-feral red fruit melange, carrying with it spice, and the freshness of tomato leaf. I’ll admit I’d like to try this same wine without the oak, as the vibrancy of the fruit is intoxicating. However, that is not to say I dislike the wine as it is now. More oak would be too much. The oak spice does show here lightly but layers in complexity, and richness. I am especially pleased by the plush texture in the mouth. The wine rolls through with juicy acidity on a body of fine cord, smooth tannin. This is a wine of good quality.

***

Vine Street Imports has just begun importing Zorah to the United States. The pallets just arrived. Be excited.

Thank you to Zorik Gharibian for taking the time to talk with me. I enjoyed it very much.

Thank you to Ronnie Sanders.

***

To see more on the Zorah project find them on Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/zorahwines?fref=ts

and also: http://www.zorahwines.com/

To read more on the oldest known wine press and winery found in the Areni-1 Cave Complex (BECAUSE IT IS SO OHMYGOD COOL): http://news.nationalgeographic.com/news/2011/01/110111-oldest-wine-press-making-winery-armenia-science-ucla/

Zorah Wines at Vine Street Imports: http://www.vsimports.com/region.php?id=52

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