Hawk Wakawaka Wine Reviews

Wine Miracles in Alaska: Number 2: Crush Wine Bistro and Cellar

Alaska

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May 9, 2012

Crush Wine Bistro and Cellar, Anchorage

The entrance to Crush Bistro and Cellar, downtown Anchorage

As I mentioned yesterday, Alaska’s wine culture has tended towards a strong California focus. There are some restaurants that have brought in French wine choices but the distributors to the state have tended to most readily sell California, and bulk selections. The quality of bottles available in wine shops has correlated with this phenomenon, obviously. Visiting Anchorage in the past has tended to mean going to larger wine shops with the expectation of finding a couple of bottles out of the several thousand that would satisfy during a brief visit; or, better to just go ahead and focus instead on beer. Anchorage likes its beer. (There are a number of local microbreweries and a pretty good selection of micro-brew beers from around North America, considering the remoteness and size of the city. For a nice in-shop example of micro-brews not only in the bottle but also on tap check out La Bodega’s new location off Benson. They’re also just real sweethearts in there.)

entering Crush Cellar, ironically named as it sits above Crush Bistro

A couple of years ago, owners Robert di Lucia, Chad Culley, and Scott Anaya decided to open Crush Bistro right in downtown Anchorage in order to focus on a smart wines by the glass list and light food fare to pair alongside. Their wine selection intended to offer a range of quality choices, mostly imported, from more expensive vintage bottles to high value affordable glasses.

Crush Bistro stands out as unique in Anchorage for at least two reasons–there are no other true wine bar locales in the city, and their selections are primarily imported. Anywhere else you really are going to a restaurant hoping to hop a spot at their bar for only a glass of wine, or suffering through a louder atmosphere with less selection. The Bistro offers a quiet, easy going wine bar atmosphere right in downtown with the ambiance that allows conversation, and a wine list that gives you options.

The wine miracle steps in here in that I’ve gotten used to either putting my wine love on 4×4 ultra-low gear to get through the rough spots of the wine selection up north (I learned how to drive on a 1976 F250 no-automatic-anything Ford Pickup truck in the middle of no where Alaska, then spent the next decade driving such trucks through mud and over rocky beaches so my metaphors here are legit), or to bringing up gifts on my own via luggage when visiting. In the last two years since my previous visit, however, Chad, Robert and Scott have extended their Crush Bistro project into their upstairs and focused on developing a retail location with a primarily imported wines focus.

For those of you unaware, distributing routes through Alaska for wine are fairly limited, though some distributors have started bringing both Kermit Lynch and some North Berkeley Imports into the state more recently. Most shops, then, simply sell what is readily available via local distributors. Crush owners have been able to expand their options, however, by working directly with importers to make wine selections–even flying to the East Coast to do tastings on new releases they might be interested in purchasing–and then connecting with a local distributor to arrange for them to be the legal in between to bring the wine to the shop in Anchorage. As a result, Robert and Scott have been able to secure a wine selection in Anchorage that truly is a niche market, with a portion of their wines being exclusive in the area to their shop. The selection is appropriately small for how long the shop has been open, but the quality for their size is excellent, and they do well at balancing good value wines at an affordable price point with both some obscure selections, and some investment pieces. I even spotted bottles in shop that I’ve read about and not seen for sale elsewhere.

I talked to Chad, one of the Crush Cellar owners, for a while and questioned him on how they connect to clientele for the shop. As I said, some of their bottles are honestly obscure, and Alaska is used to more domestic fare. As he pointed out, because they’re the only shop in town that focuses primarily on imports they have a niche market. But further they do well too at focusing on education. In the center of their shop they have two large wood stands. On one all of the wines available on the Bistro by-the-glass list are showcased for retail sale. On the other wine club bottles are shown. The brilliant choice they’ve made for their wine club is to focus thematically rather than merely on cash cow bottles. That is, Crush’s wine club is meant to encourage their customers to try and learn about unique regions. Last month’s selection brought together wines from Austria and as a result this month they’ve been trending Austrian wine sales.

My only complaint with Crush Cellars is that I went back to purchase an older French Cabernet Franc from them and someone else bought the last bottle a mere 20 minutes before I got there.

Congratulations on your excellent venture, Chad, Robert and Scott. I’m thrilled to know you’re up there! Chad, you were a pleasure to talk to both about your shop, and about wine in general. Thanks!

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Post edit: In my original post I didn’t mention Chad as one of the owners. I’ve updated to include this information.

Wine Miracles in Alaska: Number 1: My Parents’ First (and Second) Burgundy

Hawk Wakawaka

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May 8, 2012

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One of the things to know about wine menus in Anchorage, Alaska is that they’ve tended to be dominated by California big fruit reds. It’s a recent phenomenon that the lists have changed to begin including, first French wines, and more recently (mainly in wine shops, however), also Italian. As a result, many Alaskans have a decidedly California palate, my parents included.

My Parents’ First Burgundy

My parents’ first Burgundy

Upon hearing my daughter and I were actually literally full on scheduled and booked for a visit to Alaska (I get the 12-year old up at least twice a year but as for myself visits these days are rare), my mom asked if she and my dad could take us out to dinner. My dad just had a birthday so we’d go out to celebrate.

The wine list at the restaurant was primarily California (my parents’ preference) and French (mine) focused but my parents decided to let me select the wine, then my dad excitedly added–get a Pinot! The thing to know here is my that my parents are generally resistant to French and Italian wine; that my mom likes reds she “can chew on” and has a history of strongly disliking Pinot Noir, while my dad reaches for Pinot Noir always first.

When both my parents announced they were getting seafood for dinner I felt compelled to take a risk and see if they were open to trying a Burgundy. After talking to the Sommelier we settled on the Gagnerot 2001 Gevrey-Chambertin with the hopes it would have enough richness of flavor to hit some points for my mom, with the body that would appeal to my dad, and the everything that would work for me. Alongside my dad’s king salmon dinner, and my mom’s scallops on pasta the thought was the wine would also really do well by the food.

To shorten this blast story down finally, here’s the point–they loved it. This really is a moment of family wine triumph. Really. Dinners in the past that have started with my parents asking me to select the wine have all quickly shifted to them suggesting immediately after that I select a California Cabernet Sauvignon, then telling me too which California Cabernet. Being the not-visiting-much-and-so-when-visiting-diligent-daughter in those moments I’ve always complied.

My Parents’ Second Burgundy

My parents’ second burgundy

The miracle continues, however. The sommelier at the restaurant liked us well enough that when we finished our bottle of burgundy she came over and offered us a taste of the house burgundy too–the Bellene 2009–a wine with less subtlety than the Gagnerot, of course, but an excellent value. The wait staff misunderstood the suggestion and poured us each full glasses on the house, and, here’s the kicker–my parents liked that too (the burgundy itself AND the free glasses, of course), and the next day I went to a wine shop with my mom and helped her find the Bellene 2009 for home.

Here’s to building bridges of affection through wine!

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Thank you to Trisha of The Marx Brothers, Anchorage for her generosity, great service, and fun personality. We had a wonderful dinner. The wines were lovely, and the food was fantastic!

Being Spoiled by Family, at least the first night

Alaska

Hawk Wakawaka

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May 6, 2012

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It’s been two years since I flew home to Alaska for a visit.

Photos from the Airport

So much about this state makes me laugh for its intensity. Visitors are greeted immediately upon arrival by giant taxidermy polar bear dioramas.

The entire airport is covered in taxidermy animals “in their natural settings.” At baggage claim a dall sheep, white beaver, brown bear (and at the furthest end) black bear remind those unable to find their luggage not to be too casual in the wide open spaces.

My Parents’ Home

My mom greeted me with caribou soup (that’s a knee bone there) upon arrival to their home. I grew up on this food. The leg bones are boiled down for most of the day, then in the last few hours cut vegetables are added to boil down in the broth as well. In the last half hour cut caribou meat is added too. “Bukkuk bone soup” so named because of gnawing the bone–‘bukkuk’ describes the teeth on bone action the nutrients of the soup depend upon. We eat the buttuq (the marrow) from inside the bone, chew the tendons and ligaments from off the joints, and suck the juice off the bone ends. My favorite.

The house is covered in family pictures. My Aleut Great Grandparents lived into my early 20s. These photos show them in their 80s.

My great grandfather fished into his mid-80s. We’re lucky enough to have photos of him working the net in Naknek.

On my father’s side my great grandfather and his siblings were Inupiat and Russian–the father having crossed Siberia to Alaska originally from St Petersburg. I love this photo. My great grandfather sits in front with his siblings behind.

My parents are good to me. They showcase awards won by various family members about the house too. This one of mine rests directly above a picture of my grandmother (my father’s mother) being awarded Alaskan of the year.

After having caribou soup I went to my room to sleep and my mom had placed a book of Neruda poems on my bed for me as a gift.

***

Everything slows down here. The earth is a rich silence this far north. Winter has mostly left–record snow falls this year have not yet entirely melted now at the start of May, but mostly they are gone. The ground is still frozen and wet, and the air not yet warm enough to spark Spring budding. As a result, everything is a deep orange-yellow from the winter’s dead ground. The mountains are streaked in white, but browning as the snow melts to reveal the old tundra plants below.

My voice gets slower here, and I heard my accent change by the end of my first night.

Tomorrow my niece graduates from high school–the reason for our visit.

Cheers from the Northern places!

White Grape Varieties of Colli Orientali del Friuli: Regional Varietal Characteristics Cards

Hawk Wakawaka

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May 2, 2012

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Colli Orientali del Friuli celebrates a blending of a Mediterranean with an Alpine climate–the mild temperatures brought by the sea, coupled with the drying winds from air rushing water to mountain. The calcium rich ponca (marl) of the Eonician sea bed that covers the appellation guarantees distinct minerality in the wines as well. As a result, the area is brilliant for white wines, and creates world class examples from a range of grapes.

Indigenous Grapes

As mentioned here previously, the wine makers of Colli Orientali carry a deep commitment to grapes indigenous to their hills and valleys. As a result, the region hosts wines truly unique to their soils.

Friulano

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Considered the signature white of Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Friulano boasts a combination of rich texture, full body, and delicate flavors. Tending towards moderate to lower acid, wines from this grape readily carry a rounded, almost fatty mouth feel. However, many wine makers of Colli Orientali play with such texture by beginning to test for acid levels on the grapes early, striving for that perfect balance of rich texture and still bright acidity.

Malvasia Istriana

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One of several grapes known as part of the Malvasia family, Malvasia Istriana is a strain native to the Istria peninsula, and readily grown in Colli Orientali, as well as Collio of Friuli-Venezia Giulia. This strain of Malvasia grows throughout the border region of Friuli, found in the hillsides of its nearest neighbors as well–Croatia and Slovenia.

Claiming the grape is indigenous to Friuli is lightly slippery as the grape is believed to originate from cuttings brought by merchants from Greece and then planted in the Friulian hillsides. Today, the grape grows almost exclusively in the Friuli region. However, some small plantings are also to be found in Emilia, to the southwest of Friuli, where it is used to produce a sparkling white wine.

Picolit

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An unusual grape that celebrates a firm foothold throughout Colli Orientali, Picolit is used primarily in the region for making a sweet, dessert style wine. However, some wine makers also use small quantities of the grape in white blends to bring a fuller body and lightly sweet notes to their wine.

Picolit has been found to be an incredibly old variety with information showing it reaching back all the way to the Roman empire. In its history, Picolit has celebrated distinction at the tables of emperors and popes, as well as leaders from countries throughout Europe. It has also nearly faced extinction only to be saved again through its offering as a gift to kings through Europe.

Today many wine growers in Colli Orientali have at least some small portion of Picolit planted. It is considered a wine to share with friends, or give as a gift, and is often celebrated at the end of a meal as a token of “sweets for the last.”

Picolit also boasts its own DOCG as it is considered a unique grape and associated style with excellent quality.

Ribolla Gialla

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Because of its documented history back to the 14th century, Ribolla Gialla is believed to be even older to the region. The grape showcases a brilliantly clean neutrality that allows it to really show the unique minerality of the region’s soils. The varieties naturally high acidity keeps its wines crisp and light serving as a wonderful palate cleanser. Historically, the wine was also used to make sweet wines, but today is generally produced clean and dry.

Verduzzo friulano

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Grown throughout Friuli, Verduzzo friulano is commonly associated with the DOCG designated wine Ramandolo, of the hills of the village Ramandolo. There the grape is treated to a unique sweet wine process that keeps good acidity alongside mouth gripping tannins.

The wine Ramandolo has a documented history back to the 15th century where it is known to have been served to popes and distinguished nobles. However, the grape’s history in the region of Friuli is believed to reach back to ancient times.

The grape Verduzzo friulano is unique in that it is a white variety that carries very high tannin levels. Its nearest genetic relatives have been shown to be entirely made up of red grapes, and so it is believed that Verduzzo originates as a genetic mutation from a red grape.

Though the grape is most commonly used to make the sweet wine Ramandolo, it is also used by some wine makers as a blending grape bringing textural qualities and weight to their white wines.

International Varieties

Though Colli Orientali has a special focus on its indigenous grapes the region also celebrates a host of high quality white wines from International varieties.

Chardonnay

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Colli Orientali showcases a host of wonderfully crisp, good aging, good quality Chardonnays with many wine makers choosing to produce varietals of this grape without oak influence. Other wine makers in the area choose to generate a richer bodied, still mineral driven rendition by allowing malo-lactic fermentation and oak influence.

Chardonnay is considered one of the most important international white varieties in the region, though originally it was planted under the belief that the clones were Pinot Bianco. Today the confusion has been cleared up and the region readily grows quality chardonnay vines.

Pinot Bianco

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A uniquely flavored and scented variety, Pinot Bianco (aka. Pinot Blanc) originates in France as a mutation of Pinot Nero (aka Pinot Noir). Though the grape is now less commonly grown in Colli Orientali than the international varieties Chardonnay or Sauvignon, there are some distinct, good quality Pinot Biancos celebrated in the region. Its good acidity and warming alcohol levels make it a nice pairing for richer starter dishes like lightly creamy soups, or egg dishes.

Pinot Grigio

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Though the grape Pinot Grigio is commonly associated with a crisp, clean, light flavored style wine, the variety originally tended to have a much fuller body and richer flavor in the Colli Orientali region.

Prior to the 1960s, the more common production style for this wine was to ferment it on skins allowing the pink or gray color of the grape to tint the juice, and the tannin and flavor of the grape body to impact the wine as well. The practice known as Pinot Grigio Ramato is still made in the region ranging from only a couple of days on skins with filtering following–leading to a richly textured, more fully flavored but still light bodied wine–to a full month on skins–creating a brightly colored, highly textured ‘white’ wine. Though they can be found, these extended skin-contact wines are not commonly sold on the market.

It is usual, however, to find the more commonly expected ultra light, often steely, apertif style wine from Pinot Grigio. Today Pinot Grigio from Colli Orientali will be sold either as a white, or as a lightly copper colored wine from skin contact occurring for 48 hours or less.

Riesling

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One of the less cultivated international varieties in the region, Riesling was imported to the region from Germany and is used in Colli Orientali to produce a dry style, crisp white wine with good acidity and bright, fresh fragrance.

Some of the wine makers we met referred to it as their project for fun.

Sauvignon

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Named by Bobby Stuckey, of Frasca in Boulder, as Colli Orientali’s “secret weapon,” Sauvignon (Blanc) has garnered special attention in and for the appellation. The consortium of wine makers for Colli Orientali del Friuli invested in a six-year research project specifically focused on the grape as a means of both determining what made the variety distinctive in its region, and to compare it against the famous Sauvigon Blancs of both France and New Zealand. The result of the study was to move forward an already world class quality wine.

The minerality of the soil produces a crisp herbal and tomato leaf nose to the wine coupled with good structure and a full body. The bright acidity makes it well suited to food, or as a pleasing apertif.

Traminer aromatico

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Known elsewhere as Gewurtztraminer, Traminer aromatico carries an unknown origin with some placing its start in Germany, and others in the Alsace region of France. Its movement into Italy is also uncertain, but today it is most commonly grown in Trentino, and in Friuli. That said, it is a beloved grape to the region, and yet also less focused on than the international whites of Chardonnay and Sauvignon.

The grape is known for its highly aromatic qualities, and in Colli Orientali its overall crispness is boosted by the growing conditions of the region.

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Reflecting on Heroes on this My Dad’s Birthday: Or, The Long Road to How I Discovered Pinot Noir

Hawk Wakawaka

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May 1, 2012

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This morning welcomed a realization on my fascination with superheroes, and presenting admirable figures in the wine world as their own heroic incarnations. All this triggered by my sister’s blog write-up for my dad’s birthday.

image found: http://endangeredspaces.blogspot.com

I was lucky enough to grow up in a rather remarkable family. My mother originates on the Western coast of Alaska where the Aleutian Islands join the mainland via the Alaska Peninsula. Her family reaches back in that area from as far back as we can imagine ancestors. They are Aleut.

my mother’s family in Bristol Bay, Alaska. my grandmother is the young girl front left. my great grandmother is in the middle.

The luck of this family rests largely in their fierce persistence. There is a strength we gained from my mother’s roots that is one of the foundations of my family’s health and successes. On this side of the family, the horrible joke is that we’ve all almost died at least once. The doctor’s just forgot to tell us we were supposed to.

The remainder of this luck arises from the incredible riches of Bristol Bay, where they originate. I was lucky enough to grow up commercial fishing for salmon alongside four, ultimately five, generations of family. My great grandfather retired from the industry at the age of 84 just so that I could begin fishing in his stead at the age of 9. He proudly smiled as he handed the torch to me, and my sisters, telling me I already was his fishing partner since my mother fished with me the summer she was pregnant. The salmon season runs from early June to early August. I was born August 25.

image found: http://www.alaskool.org

My father grew a little further up the coast at the mainland side of Norton Sound, where the Seward Peninsula (the nose of Alaska) nestles onto the body of the state. His family originates from this general coastal area having migrated up and down this mainland section below the Peninsula from their beginnings. They are Inupiat.

my grandmother in Northern Alaska

In college my parents met during my mother’s first year at the University of Alaska Fairbanks. As the story goes he’d seen her on campus and though he never bothered with school dances, he knew she did. So, at a school dance that Fall he went to the college activity center and stayed downstairs playing pool until what he thought was the last dance. Then he ran upstairs and asked her for the final song. It turned out there was one more slow dance left after their spin about the floor and for the end of the event another man stepped in. (My mom was a beautiful sought after but hard to get woman.) Miffed by the bad timing, my dad watched as the other man first danced with my mom then began to walk her home. A block or so into the stroll my father came up from behind and stepped in between. The other man gave up and my parents have been together ever since.

Within the year my parents were married, and within a year following they’d begun their family together with my oldest sister Paula being born. They also began their family business of commercial salmon fishing, with my father first fishing alongside my great grandfather, and then purchasing his own salmon drift fishing boat. He’s now been salmon fishing for just shy of 50 years.

my parents

My childhood is filled with stories of my dad’s heroics. In college to earn extra money my father participated in a research study observing how well men did exercising in cold climates. The study was carefully planned with a small number of men each from different racial backgrounds. As my dad tells it, they were required to ride a stationary bicycle in a cold (approaching freezing) room wearing only their underwear with monitors and probes about their bodies. The study was supposed to go on for as long as the men could sustain all day riding in the cold temperatures, with the expectation it would last about a week. But, the men were also paid for as long as they lasted. Determined to bring home as much as he could for his young family, and also fiercely certain he could do well by his Inupiat people my dad set out to continue bicycling as long as he could. He lasted two weeks longer than any of the other participants. In the end the researcher simply shut the study down and was unable to publish the results. As the story goes, my father’s efforts had skewed the data so severely the results were unusable.

People also regularly responded to my dad as a kind of warm but enigmatic presence. As I’ve told him before, one of my strongest memories of my father reaches back to elementary school. His mother had helped start the Alaska Native Heritage preservation movement in the state. As a result she’d been recognized publicly by President Nixon, and the Governor of Alaska, received various honorariums, and published multiple books. After her death numerous buildings around the state were also named for her. Outside of Fairbanks an elementary school carries her name and my father was asked to speak at the dedication ceremony directly after a well-known state politician that had been close to my grandmother. My parents and I flew to Fairbanks for the occasion.

Driving up to the event that evening I’d asked my dad what he would talk about. He responded that he didn’t know yet, but he felt comfortable deciding when he got on stage. At the time his answer confounded me.

my family about 5 years ago. there is another grand baby now.

The elementary had arranged for school children to usher in guests for the ceremony. When we were greeted at the front door by one of the elementary students my mother whispered to our guide that the man the girl was facing was Emily’s son (Emily being my grandmother and the namesake of the school). We had seen how the girl had been struggling with little boys only moments before as they kept pushing her away, and grabbing the biggest group of people to walk into the school for the dedication ceremony. But, for her patience the little girl had instead won the honor of bringing in not only one of the presenters for the dedication but also the son of the woman the school was named for.

That evening as I sat in the audience I listened first to the politician’s speech. He spoke of how admirable my grandmother’s work had been, and of how inspiring she was as a person. The truth was his own stage presence was flat, even if what he had to say was important. The audience regularly shifted in their seats. When the politician was done my father was introduced. It was the first time I’d seen him address a crowd. He began telling stories of my grandmother first from his childhood–about their life in remote Alaska, of her dedication to survival with her family (in the midst of winter she had to walk herself and her two sons tens of miles across the coastline to get from a cabin in Shaktoolik they’d become stuck in to her family in Unalakleet where they could find help)–and then stories of traveling with her as she worked to speak to the public about Native life, or to connect with elders whose lessons she would help record. The audience was transfixed, and moved. At the end of his talk the sound of clapping filled the gymnasium.

A simpler part of the story is that it is also my father that introduced our family to the world of red wine. Growing up as we did wine, or alcohol of any sort, was not part of the routine. We were even cautious about chocolates filled with liquor when we had them. After I graduated from high school, however, my father announced during one of my visits home that he was drinking red wine–a glass of Pinot Noir a day for his health. With that we discovered the wines of Carneros, and the Willamette Valley, and the wine world has continuously expanded ever since.

On this your birthday, dear Dad, I give thanks for the incredible gifts you and mom have given us. You are my original superhero. Every blessing in my life began with the two of you, and with our family reaching back as far as we can imagine ancestors.

All my love, Dad. Happy Birthday.

***

My sister, Melanie, inspired my post on our dad by wishing him a Happy Birthday first at her blog. She considers there the legacy he has established for his family, and posts too a wonderful picture of he and his oldest grandchild, our sister Paula’s daughter, Melissa, who gets ready to graduate from high school in less than a week. Fishing photos are always cool to see. She also considers the perfect wine to celebrate our father, a real stand out from the Willamette Valley.

Check out her blog post here: http://fishwineski.com/2012/05/01/happy-birthday/

Wine Writer Superheroes: The Parzen Family: A Knight of Malta, his Lady of Honor, and their little one

Hawk Wakawaka

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Apr 30, 2012

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Those of you that have been reading my blog for a while know that I like drawing wine maker superheroes. Recently I realized there are wine writer superheroes too.

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A Knight of Malta, his Lady of Honor, and their little one

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The Sovereign Military Order of Malta

The longest established chivalric order in the world, the Knights of Malta, is generally considered a sovereign body within International law, that is, the organization holds its own independent legal authority under agreement with the United Nations. The group reaches back to the middle ages having been established originally as the order of Saint John of Jerusalem, but became a fully independent military entity after the close of the crusades. Founded to provide medical aid to those in need, the group’s membership is dominated by medical providers of varying degrees and holds established charity projects on five continents, and more than 120 countries. In short, the Knights stands as a modern day superhero organization–people determined to do good wherever possible.

In Italy, the Knights of Malta own several wineries, including the Rocca Bernarda, which we were able to visit, as a means of funding their other projects. We were able to taste in the castle of the Rocca Bernarda with its sweeping views from atop the hill, and its terraced old vine vineyards. After tasting through their portfolio, our trusty guide, Jeremy Parzen excitedly asked if now that we’d had their wine, he could wear one of the helmets of the Knights of Malta.

Jeremy, Tracie, and Georgia Parzen

As is well shown already on this blog, I was lucky enough to travel in Friuli-Venezia Giulia, touring the appellation Colli Orientali del Friuli, recently with Jeremy Parzen as the trusted guide to our small group of plucky wine writers and bloggers. Before beginning the journey, Jeremy and I spoke over the phone. During the conversation, he and his wife, Tracie, drove south in Texas with their baby girl, Georgia, to visit Tracie’s parents for a weekend. It was clear in this first interaction not only that Jeremy was a man of understanding and generous heart, but also that he acts in glowing devotion to his two loves–his partner and daughter. During the phone call he took the time to explain to me who I’d be traveling with, how the trip would be handled, his experience that would serve as support in the experience. He also took pains to inquire as to my own needs and interests on the trip, and to investigate the degree of privacy I’d prefer both in being introduced and in posting on our adventures. (All intermingled with appropriately timed accolades for his wife and daughter.)

Upon arrival in Friuli, the same generosity of spirit showed itself in person. Jeremy did a wonderful job of balancing his own needs while tending to the well-being of our group. His ability to coordinate our travels, translate those we visited for us from their Italian to our English, and to both observe on his own and check-in on how well we were doing was a blessing. Further, he was willing to compliment any of us on what he appreciated along the way.

Tracie and Jeremy Parzen have both written on Italian wine for years via their individual blogs, offering their personal views and insights into the world, the politics, and the history of Italian wine to both other devotees and newer initiates. Their investment in such a project even brought them together.

One of the unexpected benefits of being able to travel with the #cof2012 group was Jeremy’s own appreciation for his family. As I explained to him one afternoon, I am someone that is grateful to witness and celebrate the joys of others, as they are willing to openly share. I’ve been lucky enough to raise my daughter on my own for over a decade now–she’s a real sweetheart and a total kick to help grow up. It’s a gift I wouldn’t miss, and also its own peculiar project, since from her toddler years it has been just the two of us. In being with Jeremy as he talked lovingly about Tracie and Georgia, I felt able to freely celebrate the pleasure he feels over having his family. It’s a real gift to see a man so in love with his wife and child. To put it another way, his joy deepened mine.

In thanks for inviting me to participate in #cof2012, and for his great work there, his dedication to celebrating the world of Italian wine, and his wide open loving heart for his family, I wanted to help Jeremy don that helmet, his family alongside. He is a superhero–one of the best kinds even–a real life grown man, well-grounded, and devoted. Thanks for everything, Jeremy!

Cheers to the wine writers’ Knight of Malta, and his Lady of Honor, plus their dear little one, Georgia!

Happy Birthday to Melanie. You are my sister.

Hawk Wakawaka

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Apr 23, 2012

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The truth is most of my earliest formative wine drinking experiences showed themselves alongside my sister, Melanie, often with her instigating the wine selections.

from left to right–Melanie, Me, Paula

She introduced me to my first Burgundy. (It changed my life–I became a dedicated red wine drinker because of it.)

I don’t believe she introduced me to champagne. But I fell hard into a glass of bubbles and a long standing love affair with sparkling wine because of her (bubbles might honestly be my best romantic relationship (so far)). Together we’ve had more grower’s champagne, and more expensive champagne than with anyone else (and more champagne in one day together than with anyone else too, if I’m honest). She also promises to take me to Champagne for my 40th birthday, and I plan to hold her to it. (She has a few years to get us there.)

from left to right, me and Melanie HONEST TO GOD getting dressed up to walk into the living room and drink champagne–we’re enthusiastic like that (except we likely posed to take this blast picture only because we were already part way down a bottle while getting dressed up)

Today, April 23, is her birthday. Lots of Love to you, Melanie. You are my sister.

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Cheers too to our sister Paula! I’m lucky to have such damn good siblings in both Melanie and Paula, who while a willing wine drinker is a less dedicated one. Can’t hold that against her, she’s still from damn good stock.

Well Aged Whites: Tasting at Livio Felluga, The Terre Alte

Hawk Wakawaka

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Apr 23, 2012

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One of the insights of our visit to Colli Orientali del Friuli was how readily the region produces white wines that age well. A number of our winery visits included older white wines with their wine makers showcasing these bottles in order to share with us first hand the treasure developed in the appellation.

At Specogna it was a 1998 Chardonnay with incredible vibrancy. Conte d’ Attimis-Maniago let us select a 1997 Friulano that even having originally been made to drink young still carried fresh and lively aromatics. Ronchi di Cialla finished our lunch with a 1983 Verduzzo that brought together a mouth gripping texture with concentrated fruit and nut flavors. Livio Felluga offered a side by side tasting of their Terre Alte blend–1997, 1999, and then, for comparison, 2009. In each case, with differing white grape types, the wines were ready to drink, and enjoy.

Livio Felluga

A Missoni Rendition of the Livio Felluga Label

Planting his wine passion in 1956, Livio Felluga helped develop the wine industry of Friuli-Venezia Giulia. Beginning his vineyard projects immediately after the region became part of the country of Italy, Felluga faced the challenges of a post-war countryside. The region had suffered particular economic hardships during the World Wars, and though historical vineyards still stood through the hillsides of the border area most were abandoned or severely damaged as a result of the mid-century difficulties. Additionally, many indigenous grapes were no longer being produced as international varieties had been planted through the region during the post-phylloxera revitalization. Felluga focused his efforts on identifying vineyards still healthy enough to be restored, and on planting new vines in suitable soil through the Colli Orientali and Collio appellations.

Today, the winery of Livio Felluga is managed by his four sons and daughter, but as his daughter told us, Livio still visits the vines regularly, taking time to walk through his vineyards and check their overall health.

Inspired by the history of his region, Felluga chose a portion from a historical map of the area as his original label. Considered unique, the label has been celebrated by artists and writers from around the world as an expression of Felluga’s joy for the region he helped root a vibrant wine industry within.

Livio Felluga Terre Alte

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One of the signature white blends of the Livio Felluga winery, the Terre Alte celebrates a blend of Friulano, Sauvignon, and Pinot Bianco. As they explain, there is no formula for the blend. Instead, the character of the vintage determines what will best balance the quality of the three grapes within the bottle.

The Felluga family selected two older vintages of the Terre Alte for us to taste specifically so we could experience directly how well Colli Orientali del Friuli does in producing long lived white wines. They then also set a more recent vintage of the same blend alongside as comparison.

The 1997 and 1999 both showed vibrant and bright in the glass, very much ready to drink and enjoy now. As Jeremy described, the 1997 drank as a wine stretching its muscles–focused on fitness–while the 1999 carried itself more comfortably “like it was wearing a suit and ready to go out to dinner”–focused on style. To put it another way, the 1999 was more comfortable in the glass. Both showed impressive structure, and freshness both, while the 1999 felt rounder and the 1997 leaner on the palate. Each, admittedly, also showed as very slightly oxidized, though the 1999 was more so.

The newer vintage, the 2009, offered a more candied character while also a more precise expression, and crisper overall mouth feel.

Thank you very much to the Felluga family and winery for hosting us at the tasting room, and afterwards for lunch. We were able to eat at their Agriturismo across the street from the tasting room. The food and company carried a wonderful balance of rich flavor and lightness that led me to tell Whitney that the lunch was deepening my capacity for joy. The whole day really did. As mentioned in a previous post, Chris and I spent much of the meal nodding across the table at each other in appreciation of the food. He took some wonderful pictures of it as well. What a treat!

The Pinnacle and Depth of Joy: i Clivi Wines, and Meeting the Zanusso Men

Hawk Wakawaka

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Apr 18, 2012

9

I’d been thinking maybe I was posting too much on Friuli, and should start shutting down that whole cycle of posts. This morning I realized though that the thing that would make me happy, and bring joy to the day would be to dwell in the wines, and experiences from the trip that really hit the richest chime in my heart. To put it another way, I realized I hadn’t actually finished doing wine comics for my very favorite wines from the trip. I’d hit some of them–Ronco del Gnemiz Schioppettinos, Specogna and Toblar, Ronchi di Cialla–and I’d even posted stories from others of my favorites. But there were other wines I haven’t drawn yet simply because I was thinking I’d posted enough.

On the trip Chris asked me about drawing wine comics, how I got started, and what it was like for me. I responded, I don’t know. It just makes me happy. When I’m drawing one, I’m not thinking of anything else. I just am there, happy. So, to indulge in this self-revelation just a touch more–when I’m drawing comics of wines I really love, oh! Oh, the joy is deep and complete.

All of this is to say, the rest of this week I’ll post wine comics for a few more places I really loved visiting, and tasting. Mixed in will also be one more story from Ramandolo, and then finally white wine varieties of Colli Orientali del Friuli. THEN I’ll get on to something completely different (though still with joy, I’m certain).

***

The Wines of i Clivi

As Marco Zanusso explained, the Zanusso family (owners of i Clivi) chooses to keep their wine making process very simple. They try to be as precise as they can at each stage of production, while keeping out of the process as much as possible at the same time. As he told us, each stage of intervention with the wine is a kind of loss, so they try to do what they need to with as few stages as possible. The Zanussos believe that wine is meant to show the character of the soil, the environment, the earth from which it arises. As such, they try to reduce, as they are able, what Marco called “the marks of the cellar.”

As others through the region had also shared, the appellation celebrates a unique soil–a calcium rich marl they call “ponca”–that transfers a unique minerality to the wines, often showing either as a kind of saltiness, or a stark slate.

As a result of the Zanusso philosophy, their work readily counts within the natural wine category. Marco explained they are entirely organic, do not introduce yeast, and only introduce copper sulfate (to help prevent mildew on the vines), and sulfur (to help the wines stability in transport). In both cases, the family went through thorough testing to determine the ideal and minimum amount that best suits their vineyards, and their wines.

Interestingly, though i Clivi wines fulfill the natural wine category, the family has no interest in promoting their wines as such. As they explain, they’ve focused their practices in such a manner from the beginning, but promotion of wines as “natural” is a more recent phenomenon. Their views on avoiding such promotion are two-fold.

First of all, as Marco explained, the category seems to operate “not as a phenomenon, but a religion” and “not as a movement, but a crowd.” That is, the Zanusso family is well-invested in the practices of wine making that happen to make a wine count as “natural” but disagree with a lot of the ways in which people approach the idea of natural wines. As an example, Marco pointed out the sort of implicit contradiction that occurs when a wine maker refuses to use any additives because of the damage they appear to do to the environment, while then transporting their wines as far away as Japan, for example, thus using excessive fossil fuels that also damage the environment. Or, as another example, people refusing to drink any wine with additives while then spreading nutella all over their bread. His preference is to approach what can be done to support the vineyard, while doing so with a dedication to overall balance. In respect to the vineyard health, Marco emphasizes that it is the overall environment and soil itself that should be most considered. That is, only some locations and soils are suitable for growing wine making grapes. In focusing too heavily on the idea of natural wine people often forget to consider the quality of the wine itself–whether a wine maker is using appropriate terroir, and whether or not the wine he or she is producing is actually flawed.

Focus on the wine itself marks the second departure point for the Zanusso family from the natural wine ‘movement.’ As both Marco and Ferdinando Zanusso (Marco’s father) explained to us, they believe the focus should be on the wine itself. That is, whether the winemaker is present or not, whether the wine announces itself as natural or not, the question first is whether the wine is interesting, good, and worth drinking. As such, not only do the Zanussos avoid marketing their wines as anything other than i Clivi, they also avoid too heavily emphasizing themselves in the process. The value of the wine is to be found in the wine itself. The value of the vineyard should be in the estate and ground itself, not the wine makers’ name.

We were lucky enough to taste three i Clivi wines with Marco and Ferdinando Zanusso. I can’t even explain how grateful I am for the time given to us in their home. Dear Ferdinando, thank you.

i Clivi 2010 Ribolla Gialla

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The i Clivi Ribolla Gialla struck a cord with several of us in the group. The incredibly fresh, clean, and vibrant clarity of this wine is striking. As Talia commented, “I love the neutrality of Ribolla Gialla for how it transports the minerality of its ground.” The i Clivi rendition offered the most precise and clean sea fresh saltiness of any we tasted in the region. The acidity here was brilliant, watering the mouth and offering a long finish alongside the lightness of lemon, lime, and tangerine citrus notes.

i Clivi 2010 Friulano

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As Ferdinando explained, they work very hard to preserve the acidity in their Friulano. It is a grape that readily becomes almost fatty in the glass, due to its lower acidity levels. They prefer the freshness that spins through Friulano’s flavors when the acidity is higher, and so take great pains to keep the levels up in their wines. To do so, they begin sampling the grapes in early August and do so 2-3 times a week to determine the best harvest point. As Ferdinando stated, Friulano’s acidity levels drop very quickly on the vine, and so close attention is needed to target the right point for picking. Further, while they used to allow this wine to go through malolactic fermentation, they no longer do so, again to keep the acidity levels up.

The San Pietro Friulano offers the smooth texture of a Friulano but with good acidity, keeping your mouth watering for a medium-long finish. The mouth is simultaneously round and crisp-tart on this wine. Again, the minerality of the ponca shows here, but in balance with white pepper, lime blossom, touches of evergreen, and dried herbs.

clivi Galea 2005

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When asked about his own wines, Ferdinando responded that what he and his son like about the wines they had us taste is that there is a lightness to them, even with a fuller body and structure. As he described it, “when you put these wines on your tongue, it is not heavy. It goes easily.”

The clivi Galea carries the fullest texture of the three wines tasted, but just as Ferdinando describes, its rich texture is well balanced with an overall lightness that goes down easy. The clivi Galea offered hints of caramel and dried herb, alongside lemon and lime zest, honeysuckle, yeast bread, and touches of white pepper.

Thank you again to Marco, and Ferdinando Zanusso for hosting and taking the time to talk with us.

Tasting from the Top of Ramandolo: The History of the Grape and the Place

Hawk Wakawaka

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Apr 16, 2012

2

Sandro Vizzutti, Azienda Agricola Vizzutti Sandro e Marco

“We’re in Ramandolo. Every vineyard here follows the contours of the mountain. The people that live here respect the shape of the mountain. This is one of the few places where the name of the place is also the name of the wine. It is also the northern most part of the region, and of the appellation Colli Orientali del Friuli. We say here we are a border appellation and also a frontier appellation. It is a very challenging viticulture, and everything has to be worked by hand.

“The first historical mention of this wine was in 1408 or 1409, the beginning of the 15th century, being served to Pope Gregory. With the wine being documented in the early 15th century, it must have been produced much earlier.

“The wine is very small production, only 15-16 hectares. It is all very labor intensive [because of the grape type, and also the landscape. These vineyards climb up mountain sides.], and all the technical knowledge has been passed verbally from father to son, father to son.

“A Verduzzo grape ripens very very late with harvest starting in November. Then, a light drying of grapes is done. Historically, after vinification took place, in almost every case fermentation was stopped by cold weather so that in spring wines had lower alcohol levels, and a nice level of residual sugar. This is how we make the wine.

“Now, to make a technical point, even though I am not a fan of technical information. Ramandolo is made from a white but very tannic grape, Verduzzo. At the University of Udine, Professor Testoline did genetic mapping of these vines and its relatives, has sorted out how these vines have traveled. As a result, we know that the closest genetically linked grapes to Verduzzo, which is used to make Ramandolo, are all red grapes. So, it is believed that at some point there was a spontaneous mutation that turned a red grape into the white Verduzzo.

“Any old producer will tell you that the best wine in the world is Ramandolo. Now, I can’t say that. I haven’t tasted every wine in the world.

“Ramandolo is a wine that more than any other reflects the character and personality of the Friulian people. Imagine any where you are in the world there on the side is a bottle of Ramandolo. Then you walk by. Maybe you notice the bottle. Maybe you don’t. Eventually, you see the light reflect through the color of the bottle.

“This is just what it is like, the Friulian people. We do not try to stand out. But, people keep walking by, and eventually notice us, see the color and light of the bottle, and we get to know each other. We open the bottle. The wine, just like the Friulano, at first does not tell you much. it has a delicate, more subtle aroma. It is an aroma intended for noses that want to get to the bottom of what it is. To get to know what it is, you pour it into the glass, and then the wine becomes more intriguing. You have the courage to take a sip. Only in this sip do you realize a friendship has been made, and you learn more with every sip. It is a taste of generations–of parents, of grandparents, of ancestors.”

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