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North American 2010 Viognier: Kunin Paradise Road Santa Barbara, and Dominio IV “Still Life” Oregon

With two West Coast N. American Viognier’s from the same vintage I decided to taste them side-by-side.

Viognier is a grape known for the Rhone region of France. However, it no longer holds a very strong presence in that area, and since the 1980s has gained footholds in multiple locations of the United States, including the southern states. It was even last year named Virginia’s official grape. Still, it is best seen in California, and has more recently begun to show in Oregon though with smaller volume.

Kunin Paradise Road 2010 Viognier, Santa Barbara

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The Paradise Road Viognier bottles the first Viognier for Kunin from this particular vineyard plot. The site has been providing Syrah for Kunin for years, but 2010 is the first time they have specifically selected Viognier from the location.

The wine carries with it a lovely combination of clean presentation with rich flavors. The wine showcases apricot and meyer lemon, with touches of honeysuckle, marzipan, and herbal notes on the nose, turning to fresh fruit citrus and white pepper on the palate. There is a lovely minerality here as well.

At first taste the richness of the palate fooled my guess on the production choices Kunin made here. As the wine enjoys air it opens to a more obvious mineral focus, balanced with an even cleaner fruit presentation. Kunin kept this wine in entirely neutral (more than 6 year old) barrels, with no malolactic fermentation. The choice keeps the acidity balance in the wine overall. But to add body, they chose to do full cluster pressing, and leave it on lees for 7 month barrel aging.

All together, it results in a lovely wine that I very much enjoyed on a warm sunny day, and that would be a brilliant winter white as well. It’s a white with the drinkability of summer, and the anticipation of fall. The mood here is one that has grown accustomed to summer heat, and yet can begin to feel the leaves and fruit anticipating their turn.

Dominio IV “Still Life” 2010 Viognier

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Dominio IV’s 2010 Viognier, so titled “Still Life”, showcases fresh, fleshy fruit–a mix of stone fruits, and touches of jasmine, with hints of citrus, pear and lemon zest. The result is a rich flavored, relatively light bodied white that balances the opening dance of Springtime with a steady finish. This is a wine that anticipates summer–lightly tart to start with a balancing fruit sweetness, that opens to a softer, steadier presentation. This wine is crisp, while still also warm in the mouth, which I enjoyed.

Dominio IV has identified an area of Southern Oregon that does well with growing Viognier–the Rogue River Valley, with its higher elevations at 2200 feet brings together warm day temperatures with still cool nights to enliven the ripe but still crisp flavors of the fruit. They source the fruit for this wine from sustainable focused farms that Dominio IV works closely with for selection.

The fermentation here is done in a mix of mostly stainless steel, and some barrel on lees. It is then aged in, again, a blend of neutral French oak barrels and stainless steel tank. After blending, the wine is then held in tanks for a month, and aged finally for two months in bottle.

This wine is just now being released.

***

Thank you to Kunin Wines, and to Dominio IV for these Viognier samples.

This week will also look at Kunin Wines’ recent red wine portfolio release, and then later at Dominio IV’s recent red wine release.

Copyright 2012 all rights reserved. When sharing or forwarding, please attribute to WakawakaWineReviews.com

Growing Up Native

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I spent elementary school being sent off once a week to “Native time” when the four Native students in my school met with a counselor for what was supposed to help us succeed in mainstream education. The school had us do beading. I spent junior high hearing about how Russians would line up Aleuts, my people on my mother’s side, in front of a tree and see how many they could shoot through at once. In high school people I had thought were friends would call Alaska Natives in front of me “Muks”, “Drunk Muks”, and “Fucking Muks” and then tell me it was okay cause I might be Native but I didn’t look like them, whoever it was the Muks were supposed to be. My parents raised us to persist in the face of any of these things and that the best response was to succeed at anything we decided to do. My mother is no activist. Last week two Native women in Anchorage were asked to leave a church in downtown Anchorage by a congregant (not by the pastor who I am certain would have intervened had he known). My mom is responding by calling some of her friends, be they Native or not, and asking them to quietly attend the service in numbers at that same church this coming Sunday as a reminder that all are welcome. Please help her succeed. It is only by the grace of god that any of us, Native or not, are not these two women who were so mistreated.

Sunday, May 27, Service starts at 11, First Presbyterian Church, 616 W 10th Avenue, Anchorage, AK

*** Post-Edit

Two women have stepped forward to issue a correction on this incident. To read this new information, please view my update on it here:

http://wakawakawinereviews.com/2012/05/26/growing-up-native-a-correction-and-update-on-the-first-presbyterian-quiet-protest/

A French Bubbles Tasting Complete with Dressing Up, Friends and Food

A Private Tasting and Dinner with the Gang: Tasting French Bubbles

Most of the gang — from left: Fasil, Leah, Katy, Caleb, Fred, Hillary, me, Katherine, Steve, in front of Pizzicletta

Katy and Caleb did a great job making the inside of Pizzicletta even more lovely than usualpic by Katy Connors

Getting Ready for Tasting and Dinner

Leah suggested we could all dress up for the event, an idea I readily go for

French Bubbles to Taste

A friend in our gang from last night is currently studying French wines, so when planning for our (usually about) monthly private tasting came up, and I offered several different possible themes for the occasion, French bubbles was the one jumped on. (Plus, we all just frickin’ like bubbles, cause we’re super smart like that, as my friend Kate would say.)

The idea for the night was to taste sparkling wines from France made in the Methode Traditionelle style all from outside of the Champagne region, and with unusual grape varieties establishing the cuvee’. Caleb offered to host the location with he and Katy selecting the food choices. Fred provided the pairing to go with the dessert Katy made. I selected the wines.

Here’s what we all came up with.

Opening Wine: Meyer-Fonne Brut Extra Cremant d’Alsace

We opened with a Brut-Extra Cremant d’Alsace by Meyer-Fonne. The wine showcases a blend of 60% Auxerrois, 20% Chardonnay, 15% Pinot Blanc, 5% Pinot Noir in a white cuvee’; 12% alcohol.

There is a wonderfully citrus, focused nose on this wine. The weight of Auxerrois shows here as round in the mouth, with an utterly dry presentation balancing the overall structure. The dryness of the wine is again balanced next to good fruit elements–pleasing notes of clementine and lemon zest, light evergreen hints, dried herbal notes, light grass and chalk. This has a medium acidity, and medium finish. The dryness of the wine worked well as an apertif, with just enough texture to push us forward to the second wine, and the food.

I tend to prefer a little more acidity on my methode traditionelle bubbles, but with Auxerrois serving as the primary grape, the acidity levels here were not surprising, and the wine still did well offering a generally clean and balanced presentation. It was a great opening wine, and held up well to the food as we tasted some alongside. Pairs well with herbal dishes.

Wine 2: Jean-Louis Ballarin Brut Cremant de Bordeaux

I felt lucky to locate a Cremant de Bordeaux because there are few imported to the United States. This one by Jean Louis Ballarin focuses on a Brut blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon, in a white cuvee’ with 12% alcohol.

The bouquet and flavors of this wine are wonderfully mild, with a soft foam texture. The beads here are impressively small and persistent. This wine offers a lightly tropical floral and fruit presentation showing a floral front palate, fruity mid-palate, and musky finish. The combination of mango skin, light pineapple, meyer lemon and lime zest, show along side a slightly bitter bite and herbal qualities. The wine carries a pleasing medium-plus acidity matched by medium-plus finish.

While we enjoyed each of the wines, this was one of the groups favorites. It also did well alongside food as some of us saved enough to sip it with our meal.

The Food Interlude: Caleb Makes Eats

Involtini: Thinly Sliced Eggplant wrapped around Ricotta, Served in Tomato Sauce Yum (one of my favorite dishes)

Pork Shoulder Rubbed with Pesto, then rolled and tied like Pancetta and slow baked for 8 hours. Also, pleasantly called, “HOLY DEAR LORD GOD ALMIGHTY THANK YOU GOD.”

Caleb and Katy did a fantastic job providing food for the occasion. Katy put together a wonderful herbal green salad, charcuterie plate, and dessert (which I’ll show with its wine pairing towards the end here), and Caleb took the day to make us both Involtini, and slow baked pork shoulder. This is what I like to call, joy.

The gang enjoying the meal, with wine–pic by Caleb

Wine 3: Purete’ de Silex Brut Cremant de Loire

One of the group’s overall favorites, the Purete’ de Silex brings together a cuvee’ of 50% Chenin-Blanc, 30% Cabernet Franc, and 20% Chardonnay in a white sparkling presentation with 12.5% alcohol. (The website for this wine carries a different grape ratio; what I list here is what is printed on the bottle itself.)

The cabernet franc dominates the nose with wonderfully earthy and herbal elements, while the fruit sweetness of the chardonnay shows stronger in the mouth, and the chenin-blanc carries the body–the three together producing a nicely balanced wine. There is a bouquet of wet earth, dried herbs, apple sauce and green apple skin here, while the mouth carries honey dew, lemon peel, and even hints of seaweed. Medium acidity, with medium long finish. This wine is also a nice value.

Wine 4: Effervescence Brut Nicole Chanrion

The final sparkling wine of the night was, for me, the most surprising-this 100% sparkling Gamay with 11% alcohol.

For starters, Nicole Chanrion produces the Effervescence as a vintage cremant but labels it without vintage information. Looking further into her vinification techniques, the elements that surprised me make more sense. There is a woody, herbal quality to these bubbles that stands out, carrying with it a fuller texture than I expected from a Beaujolais–Chanrion, however, chooses full cluster fermentation here, immediately adding a heartier tone to the cuvee’ than might be expected from a just-berry press of the grape.

The Effervesence presents a mix of dried herbs and dried fruit–apricot, strawberry, raspberry and melon–touches of black pepper, with dusty, and even almost gritty flavors. (One of us actually used the word “newsprint” as the first descriptor that came to mind from the mouth. It’s appropriate and meant as more of a compliment than it sounds–it’s unusual, and a blend of dry, bitter, and dusty alongside the fruit characteristics.) The wine offers drying qualities in the mouth (again, this makes sense with full cluster fermentation), alongside medium acidity and a medium long finish.

Dessert: Katy Bakes and Scoops and Mixes: Praise God

Katy’s Dessert: Fresh just-under-ripe Peaches baked in brown sugar, then drizzled with a homemade raspberry sauce, served with homemade vanilla bean and cracked pepper gelato and fresh raspberries.

The dessert was a perfect close to the meal–simple, great texture (the advantage of using just underripe fruit here is that it absorbs the flavors well, while also staying a little firmer after baking, rather than becoming peach mush), fresh flavors, and lightness on a warm summer evening (we’re already having summer temperatures here in Flagstaff).

Dessert Pairing: Chateau de Montifaud Pineau des Charentes

To close and to pair with dessert, Fred selected what is traditionally treated as a French apertif, but with its dryness does very well alongside fruit-based desserts. Pineau des Charentes is a fortified wine, common to parts of Western France, produced from a combination of fermented grape must and Cognac eau-di-vie.

The offering from Chateau de Montifaud carries 18% alcohol with a mouth watering medium-long finish, offering flavors of concentrated apricot, date, apple juice, dried peach, and dried herbs with mixed cracked pepper. It’s great for sipping along side slightly sweet baked and fresh fruit, or on its own.

Our Charming Co-Hosts

Thanks to Katy and Caleb for co-hosting with me, and providing the great food and space! Pizzicletta on a closed night is my favorite place to be; even if I love the food there when it’s open too.

Thanks to Fred for selecting and bringing the dessert pairing.

Thanks to the gang for being there–such a good time! And thanks to our friend for taking pictures.

 

One More Consideration of Colli Orientali del Friuli: The Role of Environment, Calcium, and Finally Minerality in Good Tasting, Good Aging Wines of the Appellation; Or, Let’s Make This Title As Long As Possible, Shall We?

In traveling through Friuli-Venezia Giulia, and tasting the wines of Colli Orientali del Friuli, I became fascinated with the fact that the region itself seems to support more natural approaches to vineyard maintenance and wine production. In closing my series on the #cof2012 visit to the appellation I want to indulge my own geeky tendencies and consider the way in which environment, soil, and specifically calcium intersect to encourage the possibility of this more natural approach, as well as the aging potential of the wines. Doing so will lead too to thinking on the controversial, and somewhat esoteric idea of minerality in wine.

Wine Growing Practices in Relation to the Surrounding Environment

Approaching Solder

Friuli-Venezia Giulia celebrates generally cool temperatures and drying bora wind that offer an ideal climate for growing grapes, plus the drying conditions that allow for maintaining healthy fruit. As a result, it is generally easier for wine makers in the region to use more natural practices in the vineyard since there is less need to intervene to avoid fungal or mildew infections on the plant. However, the region offers other natural supports for less interventionist and more chemical free wine production as well.

Many of the smaller wineries also take advantage of their other environmental conditions to develop a more natural wine making practice. As described to us by Ivan Rapuzzi of Ronchi di Cialla, by maintaining vineyards near forests, the pest-predator balance found in the forests is extended to the vineyards as well. That is, many of the pests that strike grape vines, causing detrimental effect for wine makers, can actually also be found among the plants and trees of a forest. The difference in the forest environment is that a balance of pest and predator is more readily maintained so that the overall health of the forest stands even in the face of including some various plant pests. Vineyards, on the other hand, are often designed in such a way that isolate grape vines from other plant life, and as such remove them from the kind of natural balance Rapuzzi describes of the forest. The result is that vines become more vulnerable to pests as they are also in these conditions isolated from the predators that would rid plants of their parasites. By planting grape vines in close proximity to forests the predator population of the forest is available to the neighboring grape vines as well, thus keeping troublesome pests largely at bay. Additionally, proximity to forests helps to keep temperatures well regulated for the steady ripening of fruit.

However, the overall environment found in temperatures, winds, and botanical balance are only a portion of the story for the wines of Colli Orientali del Friuli.

Considering Colli Orientali’s Soils

The View at Le Vigne di Zamo

The ponca of Colli Orientali originates from its years as an Eocenic sea bed. The waters reached almost to the southern rim of the Julian Alps, gathering a rich blend of minerals in their soils, and also a high concentration of organic materials as sediment gathered on the sea floor over time. When the sea retreated, the hills and valleys of the eastern side of Friuli (including both the appellations of Colli Orientali del Friuli and Collio) retained soils valuable for growing low yield grapes with concentrated flavors and rich mineral elements.

The wines of Colli Orientali del Friuli are known for having superb aging ability, with the whites in particular matching the aging ability of those from Champagne and Burgundy. In meeting the Rapuzzi family of Ronchi di Cialla, Ivan discussed with us their own production history testing various techniques and their effects on wine as it ages. What they discovered from the practice was that the less the family intervened in the cellar the more readily the wines lasted well in the bottle over time. Ronchi di Cialla wines are known for doing quite well over extended periods, whether the wine be red, white, or a sweet wine. In their view, this reality confirms that the reason for Colli Orientali’s age-ability originates in the soils themselves, since it is clearly not merely a matter of the strength of individual grape types, for example.

Wine makers throughout Colli Orientali discussed their pride in the value that the soil imparts to their wines. The area consistently produces wine with a distinct mineral zing that shows itself readily in any of the lower intervention wines, and stands up against the more interventionist production techniques of other wine makers as well (that is, as Stuart George would put it, some wines have more make-up).

In considering both the sustainability in the bottle, and the mineral zing of the region’s wines, the wine makers regularly stated that it was the region’s soils that did the work for them, and that, in particular, the high proportion of calcium accomplished these feats.

The Role of Calcium in Root Development

The View from the Top of Ramandolo

Colli Orientali del Friuli celebrates a calcium rich marl, their ponca, which uniquely contributes to the quality of the region’s wines. The presence of calcium in particular stands as important here. Though the calcium rich soils of the eastern side of Friuli-Venezia Giulia are generally understood as too poor for grain or cereal type crops, the soils offer beneficial characteristics for grape vines.

Calcium plays a tricky balance in its benefits for vine growth. On the one hand, calcium rich soil does well at absorbing water during heavy rains (rather than rain simply running off the surface), while then retaining moisture for good periods after, during dry weather. The retention of water in this way allows the security of vine growth over time. However, on the other hand, during longer dry periods the cells of such soils dry up and shrink as the water evaporates, causing cracking and tightening of the ground (though not necessarily in a visible way). While the roots of the vines have been nourished by the water retention of the soil, they now are able to dive deeper through the earth that, due to its cellular shrinking, readily breaks up and makes room for the roots to move through. Thus, the vines receive the nourishment necessary to achieve basic root growth, and then have ease enough to achieve deeper root growth. In pushing into deeper earth, the vines are also forced to struggle in a way that impacts the production of the fruit, concentrating the juices of them and thereby also their flavors.

The benefits of calcium rich soils, however, extend beyond mere questions of moisture.

The Role of Calcium in Vine Development and Fruit Health

Vineyards at Solder

The presence of calcium in soil directly impacts the overall balance of minerals (essential plant nutrients) absorbed and utilized by grape vines, and plants more generally.

Calcium rich earth is generally more porous, or permeable at a small scale in a way that allows greater ‘openness’ (to speak loosely) within the soil structure. These small spaces serve to provide room for root hairs to more readily absorb nutrients directly from the earth itself. The more permeable the soil is in this way the less the plant must compete to take up the minerals needed and already present in the soil. That is, it is not enough for necessary minerals to be present in the soil. The proper conditions that support the plants ability to absorb those minerals must also be present. Soil permeability is one of those conditions.

Calcium also directly impacts the pH level of the soil, keeping the ground from being overly acidic. With more basic (less acidic) soils, vine roots are more able to take up necessary minerals that support the overall plant health and development. In this way, the presence of calcium in the soil allows plants to absorb a healthy balance of calcium, potassium, magnesium, and sodium.

The absorption of these minerals strengthens not only the overall health of the plant, but also the plant’s resistance to external pests. When absorbed by the vine, calcium strengthens the cellular walls of the plant itself, thereby reducing the potential impact of both external pests and enzymes, such as those caused by mildew or fungus. In testing of grapes, calcium actually shows at detectable levels within the fruit skin, and there has the effect of reducing the permeability (and also therefore the susceptibility) of the grape.

Testing has also shown that the absorption of minerals by the vine from the soils directly impacts both the acidity of the grapes, and so then also the pH of the wine itself. In this way, the mineral qualities of the soil do directly impact the sensory qualities of the wine as well–that is, the flavor and structure of the wine. However, the minerals within the soil also impact the degree to which a vineyard manager, and wine maker are able to achieve a less interventionist, and non-petro-chemical approach in making their wine. That is, in the case of calcium rich soils, it is easier for vineyard managers to use less interventionist vineyard maintenance, and to avoid petro-chemical treatments as the balance of the vineyard translates into the pest-resistance of the vines and fruit.

The Question of Minerality in Wine

Vineyards at Betulle

While scientific studies have clearly shown that the minerals within the soil directly impact the pH of the grapes in a manner that persists in the wine produced from that fruit (allowing for variations from production choices, of course), controversy around the question of a wine’s so-called “minerality” remains. What is important to point out here, in the midst of this particular discussion, is that minerality as a descriptor of a wine’s particular qualities is not necessarily a claim of the literal minerals present within that wine. That is, there are at least two different concepts operating here–on the one hand, the role of literal minerals on wine, and, on the other, an idea of a flavoral and textural quality experienced as something like minerals, which we reference as minerality.

Let me give away the beans and cheese of the point I’m going to make, and then make my argument for that point. Here it is, the beans and cheese: My point is that these two things–literal minerals, on the one hand, and minerality in wine, on the other–might have a direct correlation such that literal minerals in the soil are tasted as minerality in the wine, but whether that turns out to be the case, or not, in stating that one tastes minerality, one need not also be claiming that there are literal minerals being tasted. (The question of a possible link is not yet proven and many people because of that argue the correlation is not there–such a claim, however, is sloppy science. Science has not disproven the link.)

Now let’s turn to the clarification of this point.

First, let us consider the role of literal minerals on wine. It is without doubt that differing soil types carry different minerals, which are not only necessary for the growth of any plant, but also that those minerals within the soil directly impact the way in which that plant grows. Further, the mineral presence of the soil, and the soil permeability, not only allow for plant growth but also distinctly impact the quality of the fruit grown by the plant. In the case of wine, the pH levels and chemical balance found within the fruit are a result of the way in which the plant is able (or not) to take up calcium, potassium, magnesium, and sodium from the soil. So, the minerals of the soil simply are relevant to the wine that is produced from vines growing in that soil. Notice, however, that this is not a claim that we literally taste the individual minerals themselves in any direct way. (In fact, the results of most studies would seem to indicate that the levels of any of these four minerals in wine is too low for us to detect as anything like specific flavors.)

Second, let us consider the idea of minerality in wine. We can understand the word minerality, loosely speaking, to reference a sensory experience of something like the flavors and scents of particular minerals themselves, without that experience having to have a direct link to those literal minerals. It is often considered a peculiar description because it seems as though we don’t go around eating, tasting, or smelling the kinds of things wine tasters reference when discussing the notion of minerality. To understand what I mean, we can simply list off different examples of wine terms that are types of apparent minerality: the smell of chalk in champagne; the taste of river stones in a cool vintage Brunello; the scent of petrol in Riesling; the flavor and bouquet of graphite in a rich Bordeaux. In such cases, the term minerality is meant to capture a sensory experience had through the smelling and tasting of a particular wine, a sensory experience where we feel as though we are recognizing something very much like chalk, river stones, petrol, or graphite.

There has been much discussion (much of it argumentative) recently (and indeed for a long time) on the seemingly esoteric notion “minerality.” Many of the arguments depend on a mistake of concept–that is, they assume that the description “minerality” is being stated as a claim of actual mineral levels of the wine itself; and, further, that if there is no such link to actual minerals, then the concept minerality must be faulty. Such a link would depend on testing the wines themselves for those mineral levels. However, continuing to utilize the idea of minerality as a description of a particular wine’s qualities does not genuinely depend upon whether or not there is an actual link between the experience of something like mineral scents and flavors, and there being those actual minerals present in that wine. This is a mistake of assuming that our subjective language of experience can only be supported by systematic scientific legitimization. That is not only false, but also a misunderstanding of (a) the purposes of science, (b) how we experience the world, and (c) how we communicate such experience with each other.

As is no doubt obvious by now, I am fascinated by such questions as, is there a link between minerality in wine and minerals from the soil that wine’s vines were grown in? I honestly want people to continue scientifically studying this. Or, as another question, which I’ve addressed in this post, in what way does calcium impact the growth of vines and the qualities of the wine those vines produce? But, I am equally as fascinated by our own experience of the world, and how we communicate and share with each other such experience.

As an example, scientific studies have pointed out that apples, potatoes, and onions have a chemical make-up that should mean they taste the same. My experience of these three foods, however, is something more like tart and/or sweet for apples, earthy and watery for potatoes, and sweet, sharp, and/or biting for onions (it is apparently the smell of these foods that causes us to distinguish them). In the wines of Colli Orientali del Friuli, however, I taste a minerality I can’t help but love.

One More Story from the Top of Ramandolo: Lorenzo Comelli’s Oro ETERNO ORO

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The following story by Lorenzo Comelli arises as part of the ongoing series on Colli Orientali del Friuli, and the #cof2012 trip our group took at the beginning of April, 2012. The wine makers of Ramandolo were generous enough to host us for a comfortable, and easy going lunch at the top of their village. We tasted their beautiful, rich, wines–Ramandolo really is a fascinating wine made from the complex grape Verduzzo–and Lorenzo Comelli told us of his “Oro ETERNO ORO” project, with its focus on preserving the uniqueness of what they do in Ramandolo.

Lorenzo Comelli’s and Margherita Ferri’s “Oro ETERNO ORO”

Lorenzo Comelli of Filippon

“I traveled to Bordeaux to study wine making. We visited Chateau d’Yquem while there and they showed us a very old bottle with a cork, and their wine. The wine had become less and less in the bottle so that it was down very low. It was full of their Sauternes, a rich gold dessert wine, but with the cork it had evaporated away. I began to wonder, what could we make that would let a wine last hundreds of years, forever. And, then I realized, instead of cork, we would have to close the bottle with glass so it would be sealed. I decided to do this.

“So, I contacted an artist from Venice. A very very good woman that had come here to live in Friuli, Margherita Ferri. I talk to her about my idea. Ramandolo is a rich, gold wine, an ancient wine, and it can be preserved in her art. So, she make this for me. She had to speak to a lot of people. She spoke to people in Milano to find out if it would be possible to make a bottle like mine, a bottle we would close on top with glass so it would be sealed. She found, it is possible. So, together we made this bottle to close with glass in Milano.

“Agulia 2000 years ago made glass. I took the form for the bottle from Aguila and we went to Milano. We designed the form of this bottle. So, we made the bottle–the shape of an angel–we made the bottle and left only a very small hole at the top to put the wine in. Then I made my wine, my Ramandolo, and we put it inside the bottle through the very small hole. Then with the glass we closed the very small hole. We sealed the wine inside completely. We brought this bottle back here with us, to Udine.

“People say it is a most important moment in Udine. A symbol. The bottle is an angel and it has a gold top, and inside is our Ramandolo, a gold wine. And so it is called “Oro ETERNO ORO“–Eternity Gold. The wine will last into the future. We made only one bottle like this, and they asked, I made presentation in the art gallery. They had artists from all over Italy make art for the presentation, all of angels, and we dedicated it, and now the bottle stays there in this place, our eternal gold wine.”

***

The other wine makers of Ramandolo spoke of Comelli’s “Oro ETERNO ORO” project as quite well known throughout the extended area. The exhibition appeared in numerous papers, and enjoyed a large reception. The bottle currently remains on exhibit with the other art of angels at the Galleria la Loggia, a celebration of the unique, long-standing history of Ramandolo.

To see photos of Lorenzo Comelli’s and Margherita Ferri’s beautiful bottle of Ramandolo, view the Galleria la Loggia’s Exhibition Catalog here: http://issuu.com/laloggiaudine/docs/catalogo-sottolealidellangelo

Iconic Wines: 2010 Heroine Chardonnay, 2011 Secret Identity Trousseau Gris Rose’

The Iconic Wines Project

click on comic to enlarge

Let me be plain. I suspect Birk O’Halloran and Karl Antle like women, and super heroes, and women in superhero outfits. The truth is, I can’t blame them. I like those sorts of things myself–appreciate women celebrating their own awesomeness, spend as much time as possible dressing up in super hero-like outfits, and dream of someone someday deciding I’m worthy of being drawn up as a superhero comic and then actually following through on the idea.

I begin this way because Birk’s and Karl’s rather young project, Iconic Wines, recently sent me wine samples, and their work consistently presents itself with labels focused on their own renditions of female superheroes–a marketing concept after my own heart, clearly.

The two took the leap into wine making, with the help of wine maker Dan Petroski of Massican Wine along side, by traveling to California and sourcing grapes from established vineyards in Sonoma and Mendocino. They began with the release of the now sold out 2010 Heroine Chardonnay last October, and move forward with their own Rose’ version of the rather uncommon Trousseau Gris, which they’ve named Secret Identity.

2010 Heroine Chardonnay, and 2011 Secret Identity Trousseau Gris Rose’

click on comic to enlarge

* 2010 Heroine Chardonnay

The first ever release by Iconic Wine, the 2010 Heroine Chardonnay, utilizes 100% Clone 4 Chardonnay arising from the 4-acre only Michael Mara Vineyard of Sonoma, run by Steve Matthiasson. The site takes up the soil of an old river bed with young vines that even in their early stages have already been regarded by well-known wine makers as showing good potential and quality. Fruit from the vineyard is sourced not only by Iconic’s good men but also by the likes of Abe Schoener of The Scholium Project, and Arnot Roberts for his own single vineyard wine.

For Iconic’s bottling, Birk and Karl choose to do a split harvest paired too with split production. The fruit is selected at two different stages of ripeness two weeks apart. A portion of each harvest is allowed to go through malo-lactic fermentation, while the remainder is not. Then the four pressings are blended to achieve the quality of Chardonnay varietal they are looking for.

The 2010 Heroine shows a classic rich flavor and texture combination offering flavors of fresh and candied citrus–fruit, zest, and blossom–with touches of ripe pear, light spice, and dried sage. The alcohol offers just enough heat and pepper to keep the wine warm in your mouth.

I will admit that I prefer a slightly higher acidity level on a round-palate Chardonnay than the 2010 Heroine has to offer. That said, the flavors and texture here were rich, and well executed. The wine would be beautiful alongside roast chicken breast, but it really got me craving both strawberries and mac & cheese, not to mention a good sit down evening at the end of a long day in superhero makeup. You have no idea how tiring a full day in superhero make up can be.

* 2011 Secret Identity Trousseau Gris Rose’

Trousseau Gris originates from France and was at one time widely planted in California under the name “Gray Riesling.” Today a mere 10 acres of the grape still stand along the North American coast in the Fanucchi Vineyards of the Russian River Valley.

As he describes it, Birk of Iconic is obsessed with Pinot Gris produced with skin contact. Known in Italy as Pinot Grigio Ramato, the extended skin contact on the lightly colored grape imparts a richer texture, along with more developed flavors from the fruit including spice notes, floral elements, and ripe orchard fruit. With Ramato in mind, the Iconic men decided to apply the same process to another Gris–the Fanucchi’s Trousseau. The fruit here comes from 30 year old vines, which is impressive. To produce this Ramato style wine, the juice was allowed to cold soak on skins in steel for 10 days without punch down or pump over. The wine was then pulled off skins and fermented in tank for 10 days before being aged in bottle for 6 months.

Let me say I very much enjoyed Iconic Wine’s current release, and their second wine, the 2011 Secret Identity. A word of warning–at first taste this wine appears pert, spicy, and a little too tart. But, like any good woman that demands your attention up front, she lures you in further as she relaxes and opens, becoming more floral, keeping that spice but integrating it into her warm humor, and approachable, while still sharp intellect… dear god, I’m honestly sitting here wishing I could be described like their Secret Identity wine…. Please don’t tell anyone.

As I said, this Trousseau Gris Rose’ starts tart in the mouth but opens to wonderfully ripe, lightly musky white nectarine, lychee and melon (there is a little sweat on this fruit. It’s sexy.), showcased alongside a honeysuckle nose and palate, light notes of dried oregano, and mace spice, and just a touch of residual sugar in the mouth. The scents are pleasant and balanced, and the structure shows well too, keeping your mouth watering through a medium-long finish.

I loved drinking this as a rose’ on its own, but it would also do very well with grilled chicken and sticky rice.

The Iconic men are also working on very low production Trousseau Gris wine fermented in barrel, instead of tank.

If you’re interested in their Secret Identity it is going on release to their mailing list this week. Find out more via their website: http://www.iconicwine.com/

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Thank you to Iconic Wine and Birk O’Halloran for sending me these samples.

Copyright 2012 all rights reserved. When sharing or forwarding, please attribute to WakawakaWineReviews.com

St. Helena’s Smith-Madrone: 2009 Chardonnay, 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon

Smith-Madrone and St. Helena, Napa

It’s a wonderful surprise to discover a new winery making wines to enjoy. Smith-Madrone rests in the Northern portion of Napa Valley to the west of the St. Helena area. Napa is of course known for big wine, but one of the distinctive aspects of this particular area of Napa is the high proportion of family owned, smaller size wineries. That is 95% of the wineries in St. Helena are family owned.

Started in 1972, Smith-Madrone remains in the same family ownership with which it began. The family focuses on keeping their winery size down to what keeps hands-on vineyard and wine making practices possible. The winery rests on top of Spring Mountain with elevations of 1300 to 1900 feet, and red volcanic soil slopes. The combination gives distinct flavor and delicacy to their grapes–there is a sort of flavor and structural precision that stands here along with noticeable red chalk elements–while their production techniques keep their wines clean and enjoyable.

One of the elements I appreciated about the Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon from this year’s Smith-Madrone release was how they both showcase what California can do well. That is, both of these wines carry a recognizably California style, but each with their own distinct, (and lighter) personality, showing good balance between fruit and other flavor components; between noticeable alcohol and overall structure. These are clean, well made wines that present balanced palates, both with sophisticated nose and a range of subtle flavors in rich texture.

2009 Chardonnay

click on comic to enlarge

The Smith-Madrone Chardonnay undergoes full barrel fermentation followed by 9 months in new French oak. That said, the oak elements are well integrated here. This is a California style Chardonnay that can relax with its own innate characteristics, thereby setting you at ease to enjoy them too.

The nose shows as lightly candied, nutty, and chalky, with good fruit of yellow apple skin and mixed citrus zest, and hints of toast. The palate follows with the addition of light white pepper accents. The overall structure is very pleasing–there is rich texture, with great acidity, and a good medium-long finish.

I would love to let this Chardonnay age to drink again in a few years, but it drinks beautifully now as well. The overall style is richer than I tend to reach for on a Chardonnay, but, that said, I was pulled in by this wine and enjoyed it. It’s a California style Chardonnay with well done, balanced presentation and its own story to tell.

2006 Cabernet Sauvignon

click on comic to enlarge

The Cabernet Sauvignon shows an excellent nose with nice meaty qualities, light pepper, good earth, and red fruit. I like the red chalk effect on the palate that comes in alongside a great umami character (I was caught up thinking of caribou soup with red cherry, pepper, and light tobacco here, I have to admit), light tobacco notes, red fruit, and that nice alcohol pepper and heat. The presentation offers a drying grip, with pleasing texture, red fruit, and lightly watery body.

I very much enjoyed this Cabernet and wanted it alongside meat to help draw out more of the fruit flavors. The tannin here has enough of a drying effect that pairing with meat proteins would give more room to show off the flavors. Again, like the Chardonnay, I’d love to let this Cabernet age, and I enjoyed it now as well.

***

Thank you to Smith-Madrone, and Julie Ann Kodmur for sending these samples.

Copyright 2012 all rights reserved. When sharing or forwarding, please attribute to WakawakaWineReviews.com

Happy Mom Day, Kiddo! You sure do crack me up.

Two winters ago, the photographer Carol Bily Hagen put up with Rachel and I long enough to capture a portrait for my parents. Here are some of the outtakes that show why it took longer than a one-click snap. I love these. They’re so goofy.

Finally Carol just made us move to break up our laughing fit. The following is the portrait we eventually gave Grammie and Bobba.

Happy Mom’s Day to all of you!

***

A reader asked what my Mom’s Day wine would be, and what I imagine a perfect mom’s day to look like. The thing about being an only parent is that you make holidays for your kid all on your own. There isn’t another grown up there to make this stuff happen, nor one your kids happen to go to so you end up with a parenting day off. By now that means my dreams are all about keeping things simple. So, honest-to-god when I wake up on a holiday morning what I fantasize about is just someone else making my coffee for me. Simple, delicious joy. If we are going to add a wine on top of that splendor though, today it would be the Oremus 5 puttonyos 2000 Tokaji Aszu I wrote about a few days ago. It’s the perfect drink to sip throughout the day alongside everything. Cheers!

Thinking About Drinking: The Role of Immanence; Or, Damn, this stuff tastes good. Can you feel it? (For Robin, and others)

My Philosophical Background

A number of people have written recently to ask about the role of philosophy in my life, oddly enough. The curiosity, from what I can tell, has arisen out of my calling myself “an existential virtue ethicist” (I mean, honestly, what the hell does THAT mean, anyway?); and also out of my having been a philosophy professor until just a few months ago, while now spending my time writing and drawing about wine.

Ultimately, answering such questions ends up explaining (at least partially) my fascination with wine, and with writing about it too. So, if you can bare with me, I’ll talk through some basic thoughts on my relationship with philosophy and use those to explain my relationship with wine.

what teaching philosophy sometimes looks like: a student took this picture of me on the first day of a 300-level Epistemology class

One of the questions undergraduate students like to ask philosophy professors is, what kind of philosopher are you? Actually, other people outside of academia that know at least a little about philosophy like this question too. Students are used to profs having a straightforward enough answer like, I’m an Ancient Philosopher, or I’m a Race Theorist, or I’m a Marxist. My answer took a little longer to get out but was accurate, in the way such titles can be, to my views. The answer still holds as true. Here it is: I’m a Spinozist-Marxist, Aristotelian Existentialist. It generally took students the rest of the semester to sort out a hint of what all that came together to mean.

I recognize by now that what those four positions share in common is an idea of immanence. Believe me, I recognize reading this is some kind of labor (DID YOU SEE THAT??!! DID YOU SEE THE MARX JOKE I JUST MADE THERE??!! ahem. sorry. put that in for my philo-geek friends) so don’t worry I won’t dwell too deeply in lingo. But, let me at least explain some of what I mean there.

Understanding Immanence

To be a little too quick about it we can imagine the history of so-called Western philosophy as a kind of arrival out of and response to Platonic ideas. Via the mouthpiece of Socrates, Plato presents a view of how the world works that rests on a notion that there is the substance within the world, on the one hand; that is, the things around us–trees, rocks, my bird on the couch next to me, our bodies, etc., anything with a material body; and there are, on the other, also forms that give substantial things their shape and purpose, so to speak. A form is a kind of idea of a thing. So, the idea “bird”, which is universal to any bird, rather than my actual bird herself, as an example.

The point is just that this view pictures the world in a particular way–that is, that we could imagine a world transcendent of our own–a world of pure ideas untouched by the lived reality of our human lives. That world would be unchanged, outside of time, and separate from our own, even while shining down the form of our things for us at the same time.

The four philosophies mentioned in my answer to the question “what kind of philosopher am I?” each disagree with this kind of view of a transcendent realm of ideas in a particular way. Each presents a view of human life that cannot truly allow for a separable world in which ideas hover, as if in heaven, pure and untouched, uninfluenced by humankind. Instead, for each (though in their differing ways) the point becomes seeing how rooted in the lived reality of our everyday lives ideas actually are. In each case, even if we can speak of a kind of abstraction away from our lives–that is, speak of an idea as if it stands alone, still it either exists within or arises from (depending on which view you’re taking up specifically) the material reality of our lived human lives.

To be rough and quick about it, such a view is one of immanence, rather than one of transcendence as found in Plato. But, again, what the hell am I talking about here?

Beginning with Aristotle

Aristotle, as a student of Plato, responds directly to the idea of form versus substance. In Aristotle’s account, Plato is mistaken. The mistake, however, is a sort of tricky subtlety, at least in description. The implications are profound.

According to Aristotle, it is true that we can talk about the idea of a thing, but there is no real sense in which such an idea exists as separable or separate from a thing itself. So, to return to our bird example, the idea of a bird only really takes shape through my actual bird, along with every other actual bird. There is a sense here in which we can identify a universal notion of bird, but only because it is shown to us through how it lives in actual birds. Further, the idea of a bird represents the potential (like in the case of a bird still in its egg, it hasn’t reached its potential yet), and shape for my actual bird (how my actual bird could look, and she exemplifies it quite beautifully, thank you), rather than a form hovering in another world separate from our own.

that’s my bird there hanging out on my shoulder while we check-out some movie my daughter put on

But to jump ahead quite a bit, here’s the point of all that. Let’s assume that we are going to go with Aristotle on this one–the ideas we have only exist here with us in our lived lives–the point then is that how we live our lives is of crucial importance. It is only through us that the ideas of virtue, or courage, or compassion, or the vices of cowardice, or selfishness have place to take shape and exist. That is, how we live our own lives is precisely how any of these ideas can exist in the world. We are the bodies through which they operate.

When I put any time into reflecting on that idea I become terribly excited. There is a massive power in that. We are the vessels. No. Not merely the vessels. We are the actors that bring courage to life. We are the agents through which the shape of any character is determined. It is only through us that the values we hold, the things we care about, the ideas we have, or the virtues and the vices that we’ve heard of have any life, influence, or bearing of any kind. What we do gives them their home in the world. But, even more deeply, how we do what we do gives values, virtues, vices, ideas, their traction and shape. Further, we show to others what values, virtues, vices, or ideas can even be simply by being alive living our lives as we do. It is here we discover the “virtue ethicist” part of my convictions.

Popping Briefly into Marx and Spinoza

This is what a bunch of Existential-Phenomenologist Marxists look like; from left to right–my daughter, Rachel, Shiloh, Don, me

I won’t dwell on this because it’s rather esoteric and many of you, if you’ve persisted in reading this far, are likely wondering why the hell any of this matters anyway–but I will admit I think of Marx and Spinoza as very much the same. I studied both of them quite thoroughly in graduate school, and both heavily influenced my views of social politics, but perhaps more importantly, my views of how to connect with and care about other people. Having said that, let’s skip over it and just talk about Spinoza. It would take an entire thesis to explain why I see them as so similar.

Looking at it historically, Spinoza arises in the 17th century as a kind of brilliant anomaly. (My friend Katherine will laugh at this, but as a quick side note for those of you that are aware of which I speak: I also believe that Spinoza is often largely misread, or misunderstood, in traditional contemporary American academic tradition.) His work was hugely influential while also under-acknowledged, and often seen as more limited than his ideas actually were (that is: he’s often been misunderstood through history as people have read less into what he is saying than he actually said). I’ll be plain and say that Spinoza is a little bit of a challenge to talk about because he’s intensely rigorous and specific in his language. That said, I’ll quickly present one idea from him and hope that any Spinozists that might be reading forgive me for the sake of these purposes.

Spinoza believes that everything, and that means literally every-thing–all of the world–is interconnected. All substantial things intermix, to put it one way, and have influence on each other. Further, ideas are the same as material things (again EVERYthing in the world is interconnected) but simply “seen” from a different perspective, to be a little sloppy about it. That is, ideas and matter really are the same we just perceive one from the “level” of ideas, and the other from the “level” of matter. This aspect of Spinoza is a little tricky to mention so quickly so don’t stick here too long except inasmuch as it gets us to this next point.

Here’s where Spinoza starts to matter in the midst of whatever all this is that I’m getting at: Once you start talking about Spinoza’s Ethics, and his Political Philosophy, his view that everything is interconnected takes up an interesting shape. For Spinoza, our own strength depends, at least partially, on our ability to interact with more varying types of things, and more varying sorts of people. To put it another way, the more we are able to get along, or find commonality with others the more we are refueled and rejuvenated by the world around us. The less we are able to, the more we are taxed by the world around us. So, inasmuch as we cultivate a kind of openness coupled with a willingness to see something in common with those we happen to meet, and the things we happen to encounter, the better equipped to do well and succeed in this life we will be.

For Spinoza, having an open heart (to use my own language) with other people then is self-serving in the sense that it helps us do better in our own lives, but it actually is also the ultimate ethical and political “thinking for others” act in that we are interconnected with everyone anyway. In being open and finding common ground with others we are cultivating the health of people in general, not just our own. To add to this point: in increasing our connections with others we are also more readily able to accomplish any of our own goals, while also seeing how those goals overlap with or are simply shared with others’.

I’ll avoid getting too far into Marx and just instead comment quickly that Marx adds a layer here in that he sees the way we choose to connect and interact with others as a reflection of the ways society has taught us to see ourselves and each other. What we end up seeing ultimately here, then, is that to enrich our capacity to connect with others we have to do the work of recognizing how society does influence us in such a way, as well as how we enact societal norms through our actions and are therefore responsible for what society is, and to ask how we might be able to take up those norms while at the same time imagining them anew.

Living Existentially

The profundity of my existentialist virtue ethicist views play out most intensely in having a daughter I raise on my own. It drives home the importance, for me, in seeing that I am both responsible for how I choose to raise her and am simultaneously surrendered to hers as a life other than my own–I cannot determine who she will be. I can only encourage the development of her best habits, and help her cultivate relationships with others that may also show good example of a life well lived–examples found primarily through the friendships we choose, like dear Don here, one of the Philosophers of the Grand Canyon.

For any of you that have honestly read this far, thank you. It’s possible a post like this could seem indulgent. Let me say, that it’s also a reflection of something pretty basic to who I am by now; and also that it is genuinely arising out of a response to some requests in conversation (both in email and otherwise) that have come to me recently to talk more directly about these things.

In my view, the roots of existentialism arise out of the understanding that we choose our own lives, and are responsible for those choices. There is a profound awareness that the power of our choices is limited at exactly the same time. That is, we can’t actually control our lives–what they will be or what choices we will have available to us–and yet we must choose nevertheless, and we are responsible for those choices even when we recognize their limits. There are tons of elements of our own lives that we have not chosen at all–who our parents are, where we grew up, what society we were born into, as examples– and yet, we still must make choices from what we have been given, and those choices give shape to our lives.

To describe it another way: Human life, as it appears to us, arises out of two things–we cannot control what the circumstances of our lives will be, and yet we must choose how we will live anyway. Over time, our previous choices become part of the shape of those circumstances we can no longer control. As an example, I chose to get our bird several years ago, and now I have a bird to take care of and deal with whenever I travel. There is no way for me to rid myself of that reality. I can choose to give my bird away, but I would have to deal with the consequences of that choice too. To add another layer to this: I can’t actually control the outcome of the choices I make either, and yet I still must make a choice and act as fully responsible for the choice I’ve made. To some extent if things go very badly, in a way completely out of my control, I might get some sympathy for the situation, but I’m still, even then, responsible for how I respond to the hardship too. We just factor the situation itself into how we interpret my praise or blame, to put it one way. But I am responsible for my choices whether anyone else ever recognizes what I’ve done or not.

This simple point–I cannot control the outcome of my actions, and yet I still must choose and am responsible for what I choose–is deeply and profoundly important in my mind, and ties back to my excitement too with Aristotle in the idea that we enliven the virtues or vices through our lived lives. Here’s an example of how I see these ideas coming together in real life.

Listening to a Student that In This Example, At Least, Acts as a Spinozist-Marxist Aristotelian Existentialist Too

As a university professor I would meet individually with each of my students at least three times each semester. it was actually written into my syllabi as a required portion of their final grade. They were also welcome to meet with me more often, but were required to meet with me at least three times. This took a lot of time and attention, obviously, but I also saw it as one of the most effective ways for students to feel motivated to succeed because of how they saw that I was engaged with them individually; and also as the best way for me to track and adjust to how the class overall was going; plus, I simply wanted to connect more directly to the individuals I spent so much time with in the classroom.

In my very first semester of university teaching, after completing the opening section on Aristotle, one of my students met with me. He was animated and happy in a way he hadn’t been when the semester started. I asked him how he was, how his semester generally was going, and eventually too how our class was going for him. He responded that this semester was the best he’d had in college and that what we were studying in our Ethics course was largely why. Excited to hear this I asked him more about it. He told me that what he learned from Aristotle was that we get to decide for ourselves how we are going to approach our own lives, and that, if we mean what we do, we can actually change who we are as people and how we behave over time. He had always been a procrastinator when it came to doing school work, and as a result he didn’t think of himself as a very good student. Somehow in studying Aristotle he came to realize that he could decide if that was how he wanted to continue to think about himself, and if he wanted to continue to practice his habit of procrastinating. He decided he didn’t, and shifted to doing his school work immediately after finishing class on any particular day. He said that in the first week it was hard to make himself do it because of how it went against the habits he had of putting things off till later. But he quickly realized that once he finished the school work he felt better, and better about himself because of it. Suddenly, that good feeling added to his motivation and by the time he was telling me about this whole process he said it was easy to do his work right away, that his grades in all his classes were better as a result, and he thought better of himself too.

Though the example dwells on the influence of Aristotle, I think too it exemplifies an existentialist moment–my student realized his life was only his for living. Whatever influences he had in his life it was up to him to decide what his life would be. Looking at the interconnectedness of things, it turned out too that our efforts together (the class as a whole) in the classroom gave him the room to begin to re-imagine his own life and choose how he wanted to be in it. His choices too were influencing him in other areas of his life, and so too influencing people far outside our classroom where the change apparently began.

How Any of This Connects to Wine

loved ones and wine, from left to right–Shiloh, me, Paul

For whatever reason people’s lives are very much what I fundamentally care about. This brief (for a philosopher though likely long for anyone else) account of my values as shown through philosophy–indeed I see philosophy as a way of life rather than merely a profession or discipline–is meant to enliven, that is, to show, the ways that I care about people’s lives.

The intersection of these four philosophies, for me, ends up showing how anything in our lives is enlivened in a sense. That is, my life itself is the place through which my values, my connections with others, my histories, the histories of so many others (including that student that still makes me bubble with gratefulness and some very small joy of pride that I was there to witness and be part of that experience of his) all coalesce here in me right this moment, with me as the acting power choosing how to carry all those things forward through the way I will choose to live my life. Similarly, any other person’s life is a reflection of how they are enacting that same choice in their own lives. So, in any moment that we encounter or interact with another person we are getting a flash of that focal point of intersection of all these things in their life. Similarly, in some weird way we are seeing a glimmer of this same phenomenon too in the things we interact with–as things have been produced by people they reflect the way people choose to live their lives. Wine, then, is one of these things reflective of the powerful conviction and choices of human life. As Marco Cecchini, a wine maker in Colli Orientali, put it in conversation with me recently–the wine in a bottle takes a long time to make; it is the result of a series of actions and choices made over years. It is a person, and, indeed, group of people that come together to enact those choices to produce what will become a bottle of wine. I find that simple fact profound for the reasons I’ve been trying to explain here.

To put it another way, wine operates as a kind of focal point, or lens through which we can look, if we choose, to see how so many elements come together and take a very particular shape in our one glass (or on some nights, our many glasses). I am compelled to draw and write about wine, and indeed to shift from philosophy as a profession, to philosophical living with wine because of how, for me, it gives me a means through which to challenge all these things–to see the way another has chosen to live their lives, to see how their previous choices have brought them to where they are now, to see how they may yet still change their path, to look into how wine might draw together any of their values, or interests, or passions, or worries for them. I am fascinated by wine (and forgive me for being grandiose but I really believe there is no other good way to put it) because of how, to me, it simply is so much living. I am enlivened by it myself because of how it reflects to me some profound example of, and story about the reality of human life.

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hee hee hee! For those of you that would rather have a visual representation of this blog post rather than having to labor through reading it (DID YOU SEE WHAT I DID THERE??!! A LABOR JOKE AGAIN??!!)–Robin, for whom the post is dedicated, had a Wordle created. This makes me laugh to no end. Cheers!

Thanks to Kittee for getting me the image file of the Wordle! 🙂

Wine Miracles in Alaska: Number 3: This one just because it’s nice

Sharing Wine with Family

Sharing wine with people that appreciate it similarly to you is awful nice, isn’t it? To share with my parents a brief window into how I spend my time I brought two (new to me) bottles with me to taste.

Baker Lane 2009 Sonoma Coast Cuvee Syrah

All three of us enjoyed the Baker Lane’s Sonoma Coast Cuvee Syrah. It offers a nose of smoked meat, red cherry and berry, clove, and hints of vanilla, with the palate following. This is an approachable medium bodied syrah that is well-balanced, and juicy in the mouth. It has the structure appropriate to food while not demanding it.

My mom was impressed by its medium-long finish, and my dad liked how clean the flavors were. The Sonoma Coast Syrah is a nice choice for its approachability, hitting the interests of three fairly different palates here.

Interestingly, our views overlapped on the Pinot Noir as well with none of us appreciating it as much. On the 2008 vintage the flavors present as chunky and disjointed with the structure also generally out of balance.

Wine for Smoked Salmon

One of my birthday wines this last year was the 2008 Brewer-Clifton Santa Rita Hills Chardonnay. I love its steely floral citrus combination of flavors. The acidity on this wine is beautiful and perfect for pairing with a richer flavored food. My brother in law home packs salmon from the family’s commercial fishing venture every year and then smokes some of it in a soft-smoke style. The flavors on the fish carry the distinctness of king salmon alongside pleasing buttery smoke notes all with a rich, soft texture. The Brewer-Clifton offers palate cleansing acidity and an utterly clean presentation to complement the fish. Oh! Alaska, how well you treat me on these visits!

It’s nice to see the Brewer-Clifton for sale in Anchorage. I shared the bottle with my mom and sister Paula and they both enjoyed it. Paula’s preference is to drink crisp whites and to steer clear of any buttery/oaky chardonnay’s because of their rounder mouth feel and richer flavors. The Brewer-Clifton showed her a chardonnay that can be done differently.

Angel Joy Tears

Years ago my friend Kate and I accidentally discovered Tokaji Aszu at a restaurant in Montreal named Aszu. We’d ordered a plate of Quebecoise cheeses and asked the Sommelier to take a risk and bring us something wonderful to pair and not tell us till afterwards what it was. He complied beautifully bringing us a glass each of the 2000 5 Puttonyos Oremus Tokaji Aszu. Later when I told our friend Luis about the wine he urgently demanded to know WHERE in Montreal they were pouring that wine because he’d been wanting to taste Tokaji Aszu for a couple of years (it’s harder to find in Brazil, where he’s from, apparently). He and I went back later that same week and worked our way through an utterly extravagant multi-course meal with the Sommelier selecting perfect wine pairings for each course. By the end of the night we were admittedly drunk, and so happy, sipping the Oremus. I announced that it was like drinking Angel Joy Tears, one couldn’t help but feel blessed. Later that month Luis and I plus two friends went to a performance of Shakespeare in the park alongside the pond in Parc Lafontaine near my old Montreal flat. At the end of the show Luis’s friend stood in front of me smiling hugely with a little bag. When I opened it it turned out to be a bottle of Tokaji Aszu they’d actually found at the SAQ (the Quebec Liquor Board Shop) and purchased for me as a gift. I was so happy I stood speechless and smiling with my hand at my heart for a very long time.Though I’d intended to hold that bottle as a special gift from friends, the next morning while eating avocado I realized the Oremus would pair perfectly with avocado. Then perfectly with maple butter toast. Then perfectly with citrus salad… I sipped through the bottle tasting it alongside everything I ate through the remainder of that day, and decided it paired perfectly with anything. The experience was wonderful.

In case it isn’t obvious already, Tokaji Aszu is a sentimental favorite for me. I associate it with absolute joy and gratefulness, with friendship and appreciation. I can’t help but be happy when I drink it (slowly and with great pleasure). Several years ago I introduced my parents to Tokaji Aszu and though my dad doesn’t go for sweet wines generally they both loved it. On my recent visit back home my dad kept commenting, “oh, I wish we could drink Tokaji with you!” On the third day, my mom jumped up saying she’d be right back. After running back from upstairs she showed us this bottle of Oremus 2000 5 puttonyos Tokaji Aszu that she’d pulled from her treasure closet. I’d given it to them as a gift several years ago and she’d saved it.

The 2000 is wonderfully balanced. It’s drinking perfectly right now. The sweet elements are balanced with a rich texture and excellent acidity. The dried apricot and pear fruit flavors dance alongside herbal notes–touches of dried beach grass and sage. The slight tartness couples with mouth watering that keeps the sweetness from ever being cloying. What a treat!

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We’re back in Arizona again now. By this stage of my life I’ve learned to better integrate the qualities of where I’m from with the everyday life of elsewhere. For decades though the contrast I felt between my Alaskan life and my life ‘outside’, as we say in Alaska, was a challenge for me. It felt like I needed different persona almost to operate in Alaska versus anywhere elsewhere. The upside of having worked through such difference is that I believe that I do well with traveling, and I’ve developed a deep openness to seeing what is unique and valued in any particular place.

Still, it’s a funny contrast to go quickly to the quiet of Alaska and now be back to the quiet of my otherwise empty house. Outside pollen puffs from the Alpine Birch in my yard are floating up past the window, getting lit up by sun. The small leaves of the birch are dancing in the wind, their tops flashing as they hit the direct light of sun then dance out of it again.

***

Thank you to Baker Lane for the sample bottles. It was a pleasure to share the wine with my parents, and we all enjoyed the approachability of the Syrah.

Thank you to my mom for sharing her treasure. What a treat!