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Considering Treatment of the Grape Pinot Blanc, and Tastings from 2009

It turns out Pinot Blanc veils it self in mystery. The grape presents in many cooler climate regions of the world; as a close cousin of Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris it shares their delicate skins and selective temperaments. But, the grape finds itself misnamed in many of its apparent homelands, being more commonly blended with other whites when showing itself on the label, or simply altogether tricked out of the bottle that boasts its name. In two of the regions we’ll examine below the legal requirements actually allow for a wine to be named Pinot Blanc without carrying any of the grape’s product at all.

When Pinot Blanc does show itself though, it is considered one of the most food friendly white wines due to its combination of healthy body and ripe acidity.

Pinot Blanc in Germany

Typically labelled “Weissburgunder” in Germany (though sometimes re-labeled Pinot Blanc when sold outside the German market), Pinot Blanc has been increasing in attractiveness in Germany over the last decade, and has become recently a well-respected grape there. It’s delicate qualities do well in the Northern Climate, where it is generally produced in a clean style with little oak influence, though more producers in Germany have been experimenting with some barrel aging.

The variety is produced in Germany as either a sweet, or dry style.

Becker Estate Pinot Blanc 2009, Pfalz Germany

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The Becker Estate drank as the most well-balanced, and simultaneously approachable plus interesting of the four wines mentioned here. Of the four it was the one I’d most want to stick with through a meal, or to continue drinking through an evening on its own. We have nice fresh minerals, developed fruit, hints of wood, and pleasing acidity, all showing through a lush bodied wine. This wine is more mineral, than fruit driven.

The Becker Estate is a nice example of the good quality dry white wines that Germany produces. This wine stands up to drinking alone, for those that enjoy Pinot Blanc, but has enough flavor and acidity to add to a meal as well. Would pair well with fish or poultry. I’d love to have this wine with sauteed white fish, and white asparagus.

Pinot Blanc in Alsace

In Alsace France, this grape is one of the primary plantings, and carries the body of a number of the area’s popular wines. Even so, it is not necessarily the most respected grape of the region, and tends to be used in blend with other whites, or presented as Pinot Blanc while blended with Auxerrois, a grape with lower acidity. In combination, the distinctiveness of Pinot Blanc is mellowed significantly by the fuller body, and flatter flavor of the Auxerrois.

When purchasing an Alsacian Pinot Blanc it is actually difficult to know what the precise grape selection happens to be because legally the designation “Pinot Blanc” on an Alsacian wine can contain some combination of actual Pinot Blanc, Auxerrois (the most common partner), Pinot Gris, and/or no-skin (therefore no color) Pinot Noir. It is even possible to purchase an Alsacian Pinot Blanc that in actuality is 100% Auxerrois. For a true Pinot Blanc from the area, the best bet is to look for a bottle labelled “Clevner.”

Still, the area is also known for producing what is considered a truly distinctive Alsacian Pinot Blanc, which shows a smokey floral quality that many love, and that some wine makers from other regions strive to emulate.

Gustave Lorentz Reserve Pinot Blanc 2009, Alsace France

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This wine had the lightest flavor of the three, and did not carry the smoke on the nose that many associate with an Alsacian style. However, the bouquet did offer interesting floral and mineral notes, that show as much lighter on the palate. In fact, the contrast between the nose and palate was a bit of a surprise to me. I’d describe the Lorentz as a very approachable wine that shows some interesting complexity, but even so wants to be had with food. The focus on this wine is good value, rather than being a stand alone.

It is pleasantly mouth watering, and would drink well along side lightly flavored scallops, a seafood risotto with touches of citrus, or other white seafoods.

Pinot Blanc in the United States

Interestingly, the history of this grape in North America runs confused and still not entirely clarified. Pinot Blanc took hold in California as what was considered an alternative white varietal to the already popular Chardonnay. Some producers even choose to make their Pinot Blanc wines remarkably similar to what is considered a California-style Chardonnay, that is, strongly oaked and buttery. In the 1980’s, however, examinations of the Pinot Blanc root stalk grown at the UC Davis experimental vineyards were done by French botanist, Dr. Pierre Galet. He found that what the university had certified as Pinot Blanc was actually a different French varietal, namely Melon de Bourgogne. The result of the university’s error was that numerous viticulturists all over the state of California were actually growing Melon vines under the Pinot Blanc name.

Oregon suffered the same fate as its southerly sibling, at least initially. David Lett of Eyrie Vineyards had brought vines from UC Davis north to the Willamette Valley in the 1960s, instigating the start of the Oregon wine industry. But he arrived with some mis-labeled vines as well. and planted vineyards of Pinot Blanc only to discover them to be another grape type entirely. Interestingly, Lett’s claim was that his vines were not originally Melon de Bourgogne, but instead actually misnamed Chardonnay.

The two states have dealt with the mixed-up history quite differently.

Oregon wine laws demand that bottles labeled Pinot Blanc must contain certified (correctly) juice from the grape the name implies. So, wine makers in Oregon really do make Pinot Blanc wine from actual Pinot Blanc grapes, and those that arrived with mis-labeled vines have corrected the error either by replanting what they’d rather grow, or simply correctly renaming what they continue to grow.

California, on the other hand, has decided that the agricultural history of the state makes its own demands. Legally, wine labeled “Pinot Blanc” in the state of California can be made with any of the grape types that have been historically understood as Pinot Blanc in that state. That is, if a vineyard planted what was actually Melon de Bourgogne, believing it originally to have been Pinot Blanc, then wine made with Melon can still be labeled Pinot Blanc. However, to confuse matters further, it is also legally allowed for these wines to be labeled Melon now that the error is known. Most wineries choose to retain the Pinot Blanc name for their bottlings, however, rather than use the botanically correct Melon reference.

Interestingly, some wineries in California, particularly in the Carneros area, have established newer plantings of what has been correctly certified as Pinot Blanc vines. Trying to determine which wines from the state are made from Melon but labeled Pinot Blanc, and which really are made from the grapes of the correct designation is a challenge, however. Most winery websites don’t clarify the issue, and the bottles don’t either since the law simply doesn’t demand such certainties.

Of the four wines tasted, the Robert Foley, and the Eyrie were the most challenging in that they both offered fascinating, but also slightly strange characteristics. To be clear, I’ve never minded a challenge when it comes to wine, so I describe them as such as in no way slighting. For those that want simply approachable wines, however, you will not find them here.

Robert Foley Pinot Blanc 2009, Napa California USA

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A fan of Alsacian wine, Robert Foley describes his Pinot Blanc as an attempt to emulate the best of that region’s Pinot Blanc varietals. The style shows itself here, as his rendition certainly carries the strong floral wine for which a good quality Alsacian Pinot Blanc is known. He does well too at offering good quality.

To the American palate Foley’s style comes as a surprise showing an almost strange mix of evergreen, fragrant white flowers, alcohol-heat, and moderate acidity. That said, I found his wine thoroughly intriguing as I kept putting my nose back in the glass to take in the mix of qualities I found there.

Foley keeps this juice in stainless steel, with no oak influence or malolactic fermentation, in order to keep his wine clean and focused on what the grapes themselves have to offer. As a result, there is pleasant fruit here with white peach, and light meyer lemon plus lime coming together with jasmine on both the nose and palate. I mention hints of clove in the comic not to reference oak indicators, but instead to capture the kind of rich spice-heat that hovers about this wine. The wine deserves to be chilled, as the combination of flavors holds together best when served cooler.

The Robert Foley Pinot Blanc would pair well with fish, or light pasta with fresh ingredients.

** As mentioned above, California winemakers are not obligated to distinguish their Pinot Blanc as genuine PB or Melon. As a result, it can be hard to know for sure which grape you find in the bottle, as either grape can be named the same. In this case I have as of yet not been able to find definitive information, but am hoping to hear back from the wine maker via email. I’d love to hear in comments or email if anyone else has further information on the matter, and I’ll be sure to fix a post-edit when the info is confirmed. Pinot Blanc is one of those grapes that is readily mistaken for a couple of other white wines and so it is hard to make a commitment here based simply on having tasted it. That said, the flavors and structure on this wine were consistent with other actual-Pinot Blanc varietals I’ve tasted either here, or previously.

Eyrie Vineyards Pinot Blanc 2009, Willamette Oregon USA

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The Eyrie Pinot Blanc is a true varietal. Jason Lett, the president and wine maker of the label chooses to rest the juice on lees, adding body to the wine, and to allow malolactic fermentation as well, bringing a buttery smoothness to the final drink.

The Eyrie clones originate from the Alsace region, and this wine is produced as a limited bottling, adding to the treasure of tasting it. It is also readily considered unusual when compared to its Willamette counterparts in that the Eyrie presents with richer, creamier texture.

The grapes offer a rich, savory, dried herbal quality to complement the melon and citrus notes. The acidity is lower, but the alcohol higher compared to either the Becker, or Lorentz offerings, as a result the Eyrie leaves more of a sense of heat in the mouth.

The Eyrie would pair well with an avocado-citrus offering such as Avocado-Ahdi, and buttered scallops. This is also the perfect picnic wine.

What I really want with this though? Dungeness Crab. Amen.

This wine is so much Oregon sea coast and forest to me. It tastes like fog, with fresh sea air, the forest surrounding you, and your best friend there on a picnic. For those of you familiar with the area, you’d drink this where Ecola State Park meets the Pacific. It’s beautiful there, and totally intriguing.

Cheers!

Copyright 2012 all rights reserved. When sharing or forwarding, please attribute to WakawakaWineReviews.com

A Vertical Tasting: Faust Napa Cabernet, 2005, 2007, 2008

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One of my favorite things to do is to taste different wines of the same grape variety, or grape blend, side-by-side, or, to taste multiple vintages of the same wine side by side–that is, a vertical tasting.

I was lucky enough to taste three vintages of the Faust Napa Cabernet Sauvignon recently.

2005

Though 2005 is not deep age on a rich bodied wine, it shows well already on the Faust. This is a nice quality Cabernet, with tannins to allow deepening complexity as it is stored. The 2005 already shows such secondary characteristics, with hints of smoke and smoked meats, some pepper spice, and even my beloved Alaskan tundra herbs and plants that I’ve mentioned here before. I very much enjoyed this vintage.

The 2005 is certainly ready to drink now, but can also be held for drinking later.

2007

It is clear that this is a nice quality wine, but drinking it now catches it in an in-between/development stage. This vintage was lauded on its release for ripeness and range. Tasting it today, you can see that the structure is there to allow for aging and interest, but right now the flavors are showing as flat. There is plenty of fruit–a ripe year–and other notes of interest, but hold onto this for a couple years before drinking so that the elements can come back together.

2008

The youth of this vintage offers juicy fruit, and pleasant spice. Again, this is a lovely vintage with good quality. You can enjoy it now with its pert, vivacious character, or let it age into a deeper wisdom.

Incidentally, the 2008 Faust is a wine my parents thoroughly enjoyed. It has all the verve and body of a rich Caifornia Cabernet that they appreciate.

Side-by-Side

The 2005 was without doubt my favorite of the three. I love how the age shows on this vintage. The 2007 seems the ripest, but needs time. The 2008 shows the most spice, and I’m interested in how the complexity will come out with age on this vintage.

Enjoy!

Copyright 2012 all rights reserved. When sharing or forwarding, please attribute to WakawakaWineReviews.com

A Night of Riches

One Way to Arrange a Birthday Celebration

A friend just had a birthday, and we went to celebrate the same weekend another friend was getting ready to leave town. We decided to focus on a selection of some of our favorite rich-flavored French wines to acknowledge both occasions.

Following are the three wines chosen by a small group of wine lovers to indulge in the cool weather fullness of Northern Hemisphere January weather, and celebrate a special occasion with ease.

Rene’ Geoffroy Rose’ de Saigne’e Brut Premier Cru Champagne

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I’ve reviewed this champagne before. It’s a wonderfully full bodied, pleasantly spiced, red berry driven sparkling wine with lovely rose scents. The Rene’ Geoffroy is made beautifully via the Saigne’e method–the first portion of the wine making process keeps the juice in contact with the skins adding color, body, and extra flavor to the juice. A lovely way to open the palate, and begin a celebration.

Chapoutier “La Bernardine” 2005 Chateauneuf de Pape

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Years ago I was friends with a woman that after a glass or two of wine would start talking about going home and putting on her 3/4-length mink coat inside out to wait for her husband to get back from work. It was her expression of feeling good, ready for a luscious sensory experience.

A glass into Chapoutier’s “La Bernardine” I found myself explaining to Katherine, the birthday girl, that if I owned fur I’d be heading home to put it on inside out myself, even without a husband to wait for. This Chateauneuf-du-Pape has that sort of luscious texture, and sensuous balance of flavors with structure.

This is a rich, red wine perfect for the January weather of the Northern Hemisphere. It carries the elusive umami quality offered by aged wine, described as a sort of completeness of flavor–a savory deliciousness when the structure and flavors of a wine come together in balance, feeling full in the mouth. This fullness is expressed through dried red fruits in concert with dried herbs, hints of coffee, and black truffle.

2006 Domaine Tempier Bandol “La Migoua”

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The Domaine Tempier is considered a wine geek dream. The wine suits such a mention both because of the incredible complexity of flavors dancing through the glass, and because of the unique location from which it originates.

The rich chalk and clay soils of this vineyard show themselves in the balanced dryness of this wine. The minerals are subtle but layer in a nice lightness and grounding to the red fruits and earth elements. I was impressed by the very many layers of this wine–the finish offering cedar, and cigar box notes after the richly polished tannins. The acidity in no way dominates here but brings a nice balance to the dry features of the wine.

Happy Birthday again, Katherine!

Cheers!

Copyright 2012 all rights reserved. When sharing or forwarding, please attribute to WakawakaWineReviews.com

Italian Treasures

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North Berkeley Imports Winter 2012 Italian Portfolio Tasting

Last week North Berkeley Imports hosted a series of Winter 2012 Portfolio tastings in Seattle, San Francisco, Scottsdale, and Los Angeles. The events showcased not only a unique selection of wines, but also the wine makers themselves there pouring. I was lucky enough to attend and taste through a selection of wines from family-owned Italian wineries.

North Berkeley Imports keeps their focus on small production, family owned wineries that offer a commitment to quality and uniqueness. As a result, I’ve long had an interest in their overall portfolio, and was grateful to be invited to attend their recent event. Following are some quick notes on the Italian wines that stood out in the event, both for their quality and story.

Ca’Vittoria Prosecco

Ca’Vittoria poured two of the nicest quality proseccos I have tasted in a long time. Their vineyard rests on steep cliff sides, and at some elevation. As a result, the vines are incredibly low yield offering crisper, more distinctive fruit flavors and firmer structure than prosecco often tends to carry.

Prosecco vines are more usually planted in the valley areas, thus producing more grapes per plant, with fuller fruit. The result tends to be a lower acidity, softer flavored juice.

The Ca’Vittoria proseccos are pleasantly dry, with good minerality, and distinctive flavors. The rose’ especially stood out as an interesting presentation of red berry plus dried herbal notes.

Dama del Rovere

From the same region of Italy as the Ca’Vittoria, Dama del Rovere also offers sparkling wines. However, what makes Dama del Rovere’s offerings unique is their commitment to a less common grape, Durello. They present it in both a dry prosecco-style, and a dry champenoise-style rendition. The quality on both is lovely, with their vines grown at some elevation, thus concentrating the flavors.

The durello gives a super floral, light fruit note on both the nose and palate. The quality on both was good, but I preferred the charmat (prosecco-style) version of the two to match the structure the durello offered. In the charmat bubbles the durello gave a fuller body and richer flavors. The champenoise-style bubbles gave a very light flavor, with a smooth easy mouth feel. It’s a lovely, light sparkling wine option.

Caravaglio

Just North of Sicily is a small island Salina on which Caravaglio keeps an entirely organic farm. Their wines carry the distinctive sea fresh, and clean flavors possible from volcanic soils coupled with hands on wine making practices. I was especially impressed by the 2010 Malvasia Secca Isola di Salina, an entirely organic white with decidedly rich, and, at the same time, crisp flavors. There are pleasing subtle, dried floral, and light herbal qualities to this uniquely fruit-driven wine, with the minerals offering even more grounding to this well-balanced offering.

Nicodemi

From the Abruzzo region of Italy, the Nicodemi siblings produce earthy, well-balanced Montepulciano-driven red wines. The 2010 Montepulciano d’Abruzzo carried an interesting blend of characteristics including a distinctive tobacco and red fruit nose following in the mouth with floral qualities added on the palate. The 2009 vintage of the same wine showed as more tart, with slightly higher tannins offering a drying mouth feel and light spice.

Most impressive was their 2008 Notari Rosso Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, and the 2006 Nicodemi Neromoro Riserva. The Notari Rosso is an approachable, well-balanced medium bodied red wine easily matching a range of food choices. The Neromoro shows wonderful richness with more earth, tobacco, and fruit all joining together for a fascinating wine.

I enjoyed meeting Elena Nicodemi as well. She is an impressive woman, with a strong clarity about her work.

Paneretta

Finally, I want to mention Enrico Albisetti, and Patricia Eckert, of Paneretta. I especially enjoyed meeting this couple, and tasting their selection of Chianti Classico. The couple typically blend in around 10% Caniaolo (rather than any Bordeaux varieties as is common with many other producers of the region) with the Sangiovese to create their uniquely Tuscan wine. One of only a few growers of Caniaolo in the world, Mr Albisetti is passionate about the grape. Though it fell out of favor in the region because of its unique growing challenges, Mr Albisetti is committed to growing only Tuscan-indigenous grape varieties on their property, and thus also offers a full varietal wine of the grape. The 2008 is only their second bottling of the 100% Caniaolo, and I feel fortunate to have tasted such an uncommon wine. Spending two years in new French barriques, the Caniaolo shows rich flavors of leather, light baking spices, well-aged red fruits, with medium-plus tannins. It’s a wine I was fascinated by and hope to be able to taste again in a more dedicated manner.

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Thank you to Aimee of North Berkeley Imports, and Kent of Quail Distributing for inviting me to attend.

Copyright 2012 all rights reserved. When sharing or forwarding, please attribute to WakawakaWineReviews.com

Two Bordeaux Blanc Blends: Signorello 2008 Seta, Chateau Haut Bian 2010

Bordeaux Blanc Blends

A good Bordeaux blanc carries the herbal-woody nose of Semillon, with the crisp fruit of the Sauvignon Blanc; the weighty middle palate of the Semillon, with the fresh acidity of the Sauvignon Blanc. The blend of the two grape varieties offers a light candy bouquet.

The following two wines represent two different quality levels, and origins for Bordeaux blancs, both great for white seafood, shellfish, or as an apertif.

Chateau Haut Rian 2010 Bordeaux Blanc

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The Chateau Haut Rian is a good value table wine with fresh, crisp citrus, tart green apple, and star fruit accompanied by dried grass and pleasing minerals. In the mouth there are also light notes of white pepper, and medium-plus acidity keeping the flavors distinctive and bright.

Signorello 2008 Seta Napa Valley

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The Seta 2008 by Signorella offers clean, fresh, distinctive flavors showing the herbal woody qualities of semillon balanced by the acidity and fruit of the sauvignon blanc. The flinty minerals bring a lovely balance. This is a nice quality wine that is a pleasure to drink.

 

Copyright 2011 all rights reserved. When sharing or forwarding, please attribute to WakawakaWineReviews.com

Straw Wine: Production Process, and Two Wine Reviews: Enamore 2009, and Villalta 2006 Amarone

Straw Wine Production: How Amarone is Made

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Straw Wine is made around the world in warmer climates with dry skies. The grapes need the higher temperatures for proper drying, and lack of rain to avoid mildew.

In the case of Italian Amarone, straw wines take upwards of half a year just to properly raisin. The area of Argentina where Enamore is made, however, needs a mere half a month to dry.

In either case, the result is an incredibly low yield wine demanding special attention by the wine makers, and offering rich tannins, and concentrated dried fruit flavors. The time spent in oak impacts the level of spice and smoke, and the years of aging increase the concentration and balance the tannins.

Wine Reviews

These two wines are both made in a straw wine style, but with differing grapes, and in different parts of the world. While both spend time in oak, the Italian wine spends far more, and is held for several years before release is allowed. As a result, these two wines went on the market around similar time period.

Villalta 2006 Amarone Single Vineyard ‘I Comunali’ Estate Bottled

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The Villalta 2006 Amarone depends on grapes selected entirely from one vineyard. The blend is classic of the Valpolicella region–Corvina, Rondilla, Molinara, and Rossignola. After fermentation the wine is aged in oak barrels for four years, then in bottle for one.

The tannins here are wonderfully rich, and want air to breathe and open up. Decant for upwards of two hours. The flavors are dried, rich fruits with a pleasing balance of spice, and a lovely smooth texture. This is a wine to get ready for, and then to sit down and enjoy. It is well-aged and ready to drink now, but can also handle plenty of aging. There is greater complexity in this wine than in the Enamore, and deeper, darker, dried fruit flavors.

Enamore 2009 Amarone Style by Allegrini and Renacer

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The Enamore draws its combination of brighter and dried fruit flavors from a blend of Malbec, Cabernet Franc, Syrah, Bonarda, and Cabernet Sauvignon. The area of Argentina in which the wine is produced is significantly drier and warmer than Valpolicella Region of Italy, allowing for the drying process to occur in a mere half month. After fermentation, the wine is then aged in oak for 12 months.

The flavors here are brighter, and younger than in the case of the Amarone. There is a combination of both fresh, and dried fruit flavors, with the nose showing some earth that the mouth does not carry. Additionally there is some light tobacco and smoke on the nose that shows less readily in the mouth. While the amarone method tends to reduce the acidity of a wine, the fast aging of these grapes, and the grape selection leave a slightly higher acid level in this wine than the amarone, though the tannins are lower.

***

Copyright 2011 all rights reserved. When sharing or forwarding, please attribute to WakawakaWineReviews.com

Semillon Side-by-Side Tasting: Torbreck 2009, and Kalin Cellars 1998

Post edit with more technical info on Semillon at the bottom of this post.

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Torbreck 2009 Woodcutter’s Semillon

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The Torbreck 2009 Woodcutter’s Semillon is fresh, with green–dried grass, and vegetal–elements on both the bouquet, and palate. The scents and flavors of citrus juice and oils are rounded out by pear, pineapple and toasted nuts. The pleasing minerals, and acidity keep the flavors distinct.

These grapes are grown primarily from Madeira clones, then whole cluster pressed after careful selection. Half the juice is placed in stainless vats, while the rest is transferred to neutral French oak barrels for a slow, cold fermentation.

Drinking a 100% Semillon varietal is an unusual, uncommon treat. I have to admit I was fascinated. Torbreck is one of the few wineries to offer such a selection.

Torbreck’s wine maker David Powell says this is the wine he likes to drink at the end of a hard workday. I love the way the name implies scents of fresh cut wood, and hints of a sweating, big muscle work day. The wine’s personality carries both. It’s the perfect wine for the end of just such a day–refreshing, woody, and crisp–or, to drink alongside fresh fish sashimi. The acids compliment fatty tuna, while the sea flavors of the fish would reciprocate the favor.

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Kalin Cellars 1998 Semillon

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Using vines brought from the famous Chateau d’Yquem vineyards of Sauternes, Kalin Cellars focuses on artisan style production techniques. The owners, and wine makers, Terry and Frances Leighton, hand select all their grapes, and produce the wines themselves (though purchasing these grapes from the wine growers). Once the grapes are in the barrels, they make a point to intervene as little as possible.

The Kalin 1998 Semillon is softened with 25% Sauvignon Blanc. The grapes are hand selected, and fermented in new French oak barrels for 10 months. The wine was then bottled, and held until late 2011, allowing a deepening of the oak effect, and a softening of the acids.

The wine shows secondary oak elements, with scents and flavors of citrus peel and pith, smoke, roasted almonds and honeysuckle. There is also a beeswax candle smoothness on the nose, and touches of oak heat in the mouth. The spice, citrus, and woody elements of this wine beg for curry.

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The Grape

I was fascinated by both wines, and by the opportunity to taste two Semillon-focused wines from such different areas of the world, and produced under such differing styles as well.

Though Semillon long stood as one of the most widely grown grapes in the world, it more recently has fallen out of favor. It still has small footholds in various growing regions, but is predominately used as a blending grape to add body to other white varietals. This variety, however, still plays an important role in Bordeaux where it lends its vigor to the dry-style wine, Bordeaux blanc blend, and to the world famous sweet wine, Sauternes. In Australia, Semillon also appears as a straight-varietal grown in both Hunter Valley, and a little further to the West in Barossa Valley.

Semillon’s favor in the wine world originated partially from its voracious growing inclinations. Its disfavor originates partially from the over abundant plant often producing under developed, and even mushy flavors. The plant, it turns out, needs a struggle in the soil to invigorate distinctiveness, and complexity.

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Side-by-Side: How do the Wines Compare?

In the case of both these wines the acidity brings crispness, and balance to the rich flavors. The Barossa Valley Semillon offers a bit more acidity lending a balancing tang to the citrus oils bite. The Kalin Cellars Semillon, on the other hand, has a slightly higher alcohol content showing a bit more heat in the mouth.

Semillon is a wine often described with a ‘take it or leave it’ flavor. That is, people often either love it or hate it. If you’re open to trying Semillon, which of these two wines you’ll prefer depends on your tasting style. I’m inclined to say the Torbreck is the more approachable of the two. The Kalin’s oak influence, followed by the thorough aging, bring rich layers of secondary characteristics resembling both bitters and spice. The strength of these notes carry a bite that will turn some people off. I have to say though that because of the strangeness of these elements, I was fascinated by the Kalin.

In either case, I recommend keeping the wines well chilled as you drink them. The heat and bitter plus woody notes of the Semillon grape really takes over the other flavors as it warms up.

So, which wine when?

I’d describe the Kalin as more of an intellectually focused sensuous wine. I want to drink it when I’m ready to think about what I’m drinking, and be taken by a multi-layered richness of strange flavors as well. The fruit here shows as the riper of the two wines.

The Torbreck, on the other hand, is fresh, approachable, with pleasing complexity. This is a wine to relax with while you reflect on its flavors. I want to drink it with friends, as the sun lowers, and someone offers up a few light hearted jokes, followed by a comment like, “this is an interesting wine!” The fruit here is fresher.

Truth? I am thrilled I got to taste the Torbreck alongside the Kalin. They’re both fascinating wines, made even more so by tasting them side-by-side. With my bad habit of loving to learn something while I relax, I got my fill from the Semillon, with a whole mouthful of fascination-joy too.

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Thank you to the several friends that tasted these wines with me, and shared their thoughts on the flavors.

Thank you to Dan Fredman for suggesting the Kalin.

Thank you to Torbreck Barossa Valley Wines for sending me the sample of their Woodcutter’s Semillon. I really appreciate it.

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Wednesday we’ll take a break from the focus on Bordeaux blanc grapes to do a red wine interlude–we’ll be looking at an Italian Amarone alongside a south American Amerone-style wine. We’ll get back to Bordeaux blanc blends on Friday with a Semillon characteristics card too.

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POST EDIT:

Because of the question found in the comments on this post about aging I thought I’d post more information specifically about the grape in this regard. Some of the information that is only implied in the original post about the grapes structural components I’ll make more explicit here as well.

Semillon is a low acidity grape, but the acid levels can be increased to some degree depending on the soil in which it is grown. Acid levels, of course, impact at least two things in the final wine: how well it ages (acidity generally contributes to aging potential), and how distinctive the flavors tend to be. Certain areas are known for successfully producing Semillon with higher acid levels–Hunter Valley is one. Columbia Valley is believed to be another. In Hunter Valley, however, wine growers pick the grapes slightly under-ripe in order to keep the acid levels higher. A number of producers in Washington have actually relocated their Semillon vineyards in order to up the structure of their grapes after realizing the potassium levels of their original vineyard soils were too high (potassium ‘blocks’ acid production in the grapes).

Semillon is generally understood to be one of the best white grapes for aging. According to Mike Januick of Chateau Sainte Michelle in Washington, Semillon tends to do well from the bottle in the early 1-3 year range when it shows pleasant citrus and melon notes, or after 8 years bottle age when it often shows the deeper secondary characteristics including honey or beeswax. As Januick describes, In between the early and the later periods the wine has lost its freshness but not developed its secondary notes yet. According to wine maker Dexter Ahlgren, we should expect Semillon to do well with aging 10-15 years in bottle.

Semillon is a grape that likes to over produce so it does better in soils that demand it to work for its nutrients (and that have lower potassium), but also in climates, or vineyards that have less water. When the grape readily captures its water supply the fruit gets larger and larger dramatically lowering both the concentration of flavors in the grape, and the acidity as well. So, you end up with fruit that offers either watery and/or mushy flavors. The lower water supply also keeps the cell size of the grape itself smaller contributing to the woody elements of the wine, but also to the hardiness of it through the season, and in the bottle. This also correlates with lower sugar levels, and so a crisper style wine in the end.

Regarding color: semillon varietals tend to have a distinct golden color from the beginning, but that deepens with aging. The Torbreck showed gold but clear, while the Kalin was a reach deep golden honey color.

Copyright 2011 all rights reserved. When sharing or forwarding, please attribute to WakawakaWineReviews.com

Tasting Through Sauvignon Blanc: Wine Reviews, Regional Differences, and Varietal Characteristics (with a hello to Julie!)

Thanks to Julie for her interest in Sauvignon Blanc!

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Sauvignon Blanc is yet another grape that carries uncertain origins. There are a number of potential parent plants, each placing its possible motherland in differing areas of the world. What we do know is that its more contemporary history roots the grape in Western France, both Bordeaux and the Loire Valley. From here the vine has traveled throughout the wine growing regions of the world.

The phylloxera outbreak of the late 1800’s deeply impacted the grapes production volume throughout Europe, resulting in vines now younger than the crisis in that region. However, the planet still showcases Sauvignon Blanc vines older than the phylloxera epidemic as cuttings were transported to Chile before the infestation of Europe. Chile remains the only country in the world never impacted by the phylloxera louse as its geography offers natural protection through the desert in the North, the mountains to the East, and the ocean on the West. As a result, some of the oldest vines in the world (of other grape types too) reside in the Chilean countryside.

Sauvignon Blanc Varietal Wine Reviews

Below the preferred wine from each region is reviewed through a wine review comic. However, a number of other Sauvignon Blanc varietals are also reviewed here through a text-only review. Each review is demarcated in this post with a bold title section. At the bottom of the post a brief note indicating which Sauvignon Blanc wines came out as favorites.

France

Sauvignon Blanc generates several world famous wines originating in Western France. In Bordeaux, the grape is one of several allowed as part of the dry white blend known as Bordeaux blanc–we’ll look at examples of such blends next week. It also plays a key role in the sweet wine blend, Sauternes (another we’ll look at next week). In the Loire Valley the wine is most well known for its production focus as Sancerre.

White Sancerre brings a mineral focus, and elegance to the grape, cultivating Sauvignon Blanc in either chalk or flint soil, both of which can be sensed in the final varietal when fermentation temperatures are kept high. While flint tends to offer leaner, long lived renditions, chalk instead generates a wine, by comparison, with a heftier body and mouth feel. Sancerre is generally placed in Stainless Steel vats for fermentation, thus abstaining from any oak influence on the flavors or aging potential of the wine.

By many, Sancerre is considered one of the most elegant, dry, and pleasing white wines in the world.

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Wine Review: Daniel Chotard 2009 Sancerre Imported by Kermit Lynch

Sancerre is generally understood to be less grassy than other varietals from this grape. This Chotard is no exception. The fruits are distinct, and pleasant, carrying noticeable and refreshing flinty minerals. Subtle white flowers lift the citrus, and slight tropical scents and flavors profile. The acidity here is also pleasing, bringing a nice mouth watering crispness to the fruit.

More on France

Though Bordeaux and Loire Valley are the largest production areas for this variety, it is grown throughout the country with differing styles of wine resulting. Though it does not play a huge role there, Sauvignon Blanc is one of the many grapes grown in the Languedoc-Rouissillon region of the South.

Wine Review: JeanJean 2010 Sauvignon Blanc Languedoc

This wine from JeanJean offers a clean, fresh fruit focused varietal with medium complexity, and finish. The nose hosts Meyer lemon, lime, passion fruit, and scents of honey suckle. On the mouth, you find Meyer lemon, lime, and tropical fruits. Refreshing, approachable, and pleasing to drink.

Though I did not draw a wine comic for the JeanJean, if you are looking for a Sauvignon Blanc to drink, this wine is recommended. I appreciate the clean, citrus focused, mouth watering elements of this wine.

California

Introduced to California in the 1880’s, Sauvignon Blanc went through a long period of being out of favor in North America. This reputation was changed when Robert Mondavi coined a new name for it–Fume Blanc–and marketed it as an exciting new dry white alternative to chardonnay. The pitch worked.

The Fume Blanc name is unregulated through the state, thus allowing wine makers to choose if they’ll sell their wine under the varietal name, or the Mondavi nickname. Because of the lack of regulation the production style with either moniker can vary widely.

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Wine Review: Hanna 2009 Sauvignon Blanc Russian River Valley

The grassy elements common to Sauvignon Blanc show lightly in the Hanna. They are well-balanced with fruit elements, and acidity that offers distinctive, recognizable fruit flavors. Fresh citrus, and light lychee notes dance in the nose, while citrus zing into balance with deepening melon flavors on the palate. The wine also showcases crisp pear as it warms. This wine is very refreshing both for its well-defined flavors, and fresh fruit focus, as well as the mouth watering acidity. Well-balanced, fresh, and crisp varietal here.

Wine Review: Frog’s Leap 2010 Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc

I want to note that I appreciate the humor offered from the Frog’s Leap label that puts the words “open other end” near the bottom, as if anyone could open the bottom of a bottle without simply breaking it. In the midst of wine tasting I appreciated finding the subtle humor.

The Frog’s Leap Sauvignon Blanc (SB), however, was my least favorite of the many SB varietals I tasted. Sauvignon Blanc does best in climates where the temperature at any one part of the day does not reach too high–in more extreme conditions the grape tends to ripen quickly resulting in less distinct flavor components in the final wine. Here we find mushy flavors–they are not distinct or crisp, and instead traverse your palate as washed out fruit. The nose is very light with faint tropical fruits, and oak. The mouth shows a powdered candy taste alongside lime and passion fruit.

New Zealand

Though the grape was originally planted in New Zealand as an experiment to be mixed with other white varieties, here SB varietals are now famous. New Zealand established an internationally known wine industry for its strongly fruit focused, tropical notes rendition of the grape. Interestingly, production practices in the area have been strongly influenced by geography historically. Because there had only been proper production facilities on one island, while the grape was grown on both, grapes had to be transported by truck over long distances before they could be separated from their skins and pressed. As a result of the extended skin contact in transport, New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc tended to offer fuller flavors and intensity in the wine.

The growing conditions here vary widely from vineyard to vineyard, thus creating very different flavor elements within the region. Still, due to the maritime climate of the long, narrow islands, the grape celebrates one of the longer growing seasons seen anywhere in the world. As a result, the New Zealand flavors tend to be ripe, rich, and full of fruit.

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Wine Review: Nine Walks 2011 Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc

The Nine Walks Sauvignon Blanc has a light nose of candied lime, and tropical fruits. The palate carries forward the tropical fruit with fresh lime, meyer lemon, passion fruit, and hints of pleasing pepper and oak. The minerals here are very light. This varietal is subtle in its delivery, and crisp.

Wine Review: Long Boat 2009 Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc

The Long Boat offers both herbs, and minerals with sage and subtle flavors of river rocks. The focus on both the nose and the palate are youthful green apple, passionfruit, and meyer lemon, along with unripe pineapple. Accents of white flowers raise the profile. The grass, and green pepper elements common to the grape variety are also present here.

Wine Review: Nautilus 2010 Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc

This wine shows a clear tropical fruit and citrus focus. There is also green pepper, and light oak showing themselves here. Very fruit focused wine. Not a favorite.

Wine Review: Kim Crawford 2010 Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc

The grass tendencies of this grape show here on both the nose, and mouth. The Kim Crawford offers the classic full flavor rendition that New Zealand is famous for. The nose has tropical fruits, and passion fruit, while the mouth continues this blend, along with some peach notes, and obvious oak-bite and heat. There is quality here but it is not my style of wine.

Chile

Recent focus has developed quality Sauvignon Blanc in Chile. The well-aged vines of the region along with the more recent focus on quality wine production in the area have combined to produce crisp, flavorful varietals. Contrasting the wines of this region against others mentioned, the Chilean Sauvignon Blancs are generally considered closer in French style, rather than New Zealand. That is, the flavors are more often refined, and cleaner with more of a tendency towards citrus and minerals, and less towards tropical fruits.

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Wine Review: Veramonte 2010 Casablanca Valley Sauvignon Blanc

Bright distinct fruit are found here in both the nose, and the mouth. Lime, meyer lemon, and passion fruit fill the nose, with them carrying forward in the mouth alongside juicy pear, and hints of tropical fruit. This wine is smooth, with a touch of spice.

Wine Review: Arenal 2009 Casablanca Valley Sauvignon Blanc

The flavors here are light, and less distinct. There are notes of candied lime in both the bouquet, and flavors, along with tart green apple, pineapple, grapefruit, light white flowers, and subtle tropical fruits. This wine offers mild heat. It is light, and smooth, showing citrus-candy flavors with a citrus bite. Not a favorite, though I’d recommend it above most of the New Zealand wines mentioned.

Varietal Characteristics: Sauvignon Blanc

Typical to this grape are fruit elements ranging from citrus and tropical fruit. Tropical fruit flavors tend to be more commonly found in New World wines, while citrus elements are generally common throughout. The grape is also known to have an herbaceous quality most commonly showing as grass, and bell pepper.

In less ripe growing seasons Sauvignon Blanc takes on an incredibly pungent (even often called aggressive) odor that people politely refer to as “cat box”, or more pointedly call “cat pee.” This characteristic is less commonly found in the varietal today as the link between this bouquet-flavor component and ripeness levels was recently discovered. Greater sun exposure in cooler climates is one solution to avoiding such flavor elements. In other words, cat box characteristics occur due to temperature, and sun exposure related growing conditions, and are not considered a flaw in the wine. For some, the quality is desirable.

Though the grape is most widely produced in Bordeaux, Loire Valley, California, New Zealand, and Chile, it is also found in small production numbers in South Africa, small portions of Australia, and in other areas of Europe.

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Which SB Wines Win?

Along with the JeanJean, the four wine review comics indicate my favorites of those tasted. Of the styles addressed here, Sancerre is my preference, with the clean, mouth watering qualities of the JeanJean, and the Hanna being next.

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Monday will consider a side-by-side wine tasting of two very different Semillons, one offered young from Barossa Valley, Australia, and the other an older release from California.

The rest of next week will explore the commonly side-by-side relationship of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon through a comparison of Bordeaux blanc blends (from Bordeaux, and from elsewhere), and then of late harvest wines in both blended and varietal versions of the two grapes.

Copyright 2011 all rights reserved. When sharing or forwarding, please attribute to WakawakaWineReviews.com

Thinking about Drinking: Using Philosophy to Respond to the Demands of Two Ranting Wine Writers that Feel the Need to Challenge Other Wine Writers to Do Better

 

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Post edit:

4 January 1960 Camus died in a car accident with his publisher and dear friend, Michel Gallimard. Camus was only 46.

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My Underlying Views About Giving Wine Its Due

My commitment, both in terms of wine, and, to be honest, generally, even with people, is to strike a balance resting on open minded with standards. When it comes to wine, in striving for this balance I push myself to imagine my way into a glass–to ask what conditions would it be desired under, and who would want this wine when? even when I am not thoroughly compelled by the particular wine myself. My purposes in taking this approach are to push myself to understand wine better by pushing beyond my own immediate matters of taste. But these purposes come to a close when it is time to consider points like the production quality of the wine–how well the flavors balance, if the structure holds together, if additives or interventions have done damage to the flavors, or if maybe the original cuvee was simply never up to par. That is, I am open minded, and I want to learn what wines from different regions or grape types have to offer even if I haven’t tended to like particular regions or grape types, but I also recognize this is not a world of wild relativism. Some wine really is better than others, and damn it we all know that to be true, even if some of us might try to blindly on occasion pretend otherwise.

I imagine the world of wine as an expression of someone’s life–both in terms of a wine maker having spent time to make it, but also in terms of some wine drinkers wanting to take time to taste it. But the truth is, the with-standards part of the situation means there is a limit to any imagining; we can’t pretend there is better quality to a wine than is there. Let me be clear though–I believe there is a difference between quality standards as in, the production and growing conditions that imprint themselves into a wine, versus standards of taste that arise out of my own training, life, and experience. The first I am going to demand myself to recognize and hold regard for, the second I might only partially be able to help. I can push to learn my way into a new wine or wine style–and any of us have done this at least a little bit if we’ve gotten far enough to know the name of more than a handful of wines (the matter of taste)–and I can also learn how to better recognize when a wine is poor quality, and whether it’s because the grapes didn’t ripen well, or the wine maker interfered too much during production (the matter of quality).

A Very Small Fervor in Wine Blogs: A Rants About the Quality of Wine Writing in the Wine Blogging World

As 2011 drew to a close a very-small fervor occurred on wine blogs. Let me say again, very small. However, it’s a fervor worth considering. At least two wine bloggers took their end of year, or first of year moment to rant about the poor quality of wine writing to be found in wine blogs. In a certain sense I take it this is no profound claim really. The idea that there is a glut of work done in this area (wine) is in no way unique; the idea that this work being done on wine itself is often not very creative or sophisticated, is also not peculiar to this one field alone. The internet drowns us all in mediocre production. So, in as much as either of these wine bloggers simply wanted to complain, well, way to contribute to the drowning. I’m willing to assume, however, both wine bloggers (who will be named shortly) hoped to do more than just that. In other words, there is good reason, it seems, to consider some of their points raised.

On January 2, The Passionate Foodie posted what he called a rant and a “call you [wine bloggers] out once again” demanding that “There is not a single wine blog out there that cannot be improved” (italics original to The Passionate Foodie’s own statement, not my emphasis). As @dfredman so aptly responded via twitter, “Is there _anything_ that can’t be improved?” I take it the implication of @dfredman’s response is that there is nothing profound in claiming that any wine blog could be improved. That, if that is the only assertion being made, it is too obvious. It is simply true of anything. There are times, however, when the obvious must be pointed out, of course; or, when something only becomes obvious after it is said. The truth is, there is a glut of wine writing on the internet these days, and I take it The Passionate Foodie (PF) was placing a sort of call to attention to anyone doing such work–challenge yourself to always improve or, get the hell out. That is, be better, or why bother? In as much as this was his point, I agree. I want to point out too that PF makes a point of stating he expects this challenge of himself as well. With that being the case his point becomes less of a rant, and more especially worth considering.

The second blogger, who I’ll mention and name more specifically later, raises a different kind of concern, however. In his post, some of the ire expressed is about what even makes it worth reading wine blogs at all, and his challenge pushes more on a demand for wine writers to explain to him why they even bother to write what they do. As will be explained a little further on, he gives specific issues in which he thinks many wine bloggers fail. In response to any such rant certain standards, I think, must be met by the person doing the ranting for them to escape the trenches of their own criticism. As just said, in as much as someone offers mere complaining, it seems they are only contributing to the glut without actually doing much to transform it–they are encouraging the drowning in mediocrity while tricking themselves into thinking they’re speaking against it. In other words, without offering either insightful standards for the apparently poor blog producers to reach towards, or information to encourage the possibility of insight and education, then no real work has been done. Criticism is not necessarily productive critique, to put it another way. To be clear, I offer this claim more for the sake of the general point, and less for the sake of calling any specific person out. I take it readers can decide for themselves, if they wish, whether material they read online fits such a description.

In considering the conjunction between PF’s challenge, and the name of his own blog–passionate–I can’t help but consider that the answer to escaping mediocrity, and improving our own blogging standards rests precisely there. In our own passion.

Considering the Question Why Bother?

What, then, does it mean to live the passionate life in relation to wine? Camus delivers an answer, I believe, through his interpretation of the Ancient Greek tragedy of Sisyphus.

(a) The Story of Sisyphus

As the story goes, Sisyphus was a tricky, spoiled little bastard used to getting his way. As first, the son of a king, and then king himself, he’d come to rely on his own powers of persuasion to get desire fulfilled imminently and consistently. Sisyphus got what he wanted when he wanted it. With such charisma, Sisyphus successfully went on to trick even a series of gods and goddesses out of his own mortality, and just desserts, all towards the purposes of his own pleasure. In this way, Sisyphus over extended his powers of persuasion to gain advantage over his own natural place below the gods, the natural rulers of the cosmos, as well. (Details of exactly how Sisyphus did so can be found through a simple wikipedia search if you’re so unfortunate as to not know the story already–really, Ancient Greek tragedy is one of the most insightful, and interesting sources of human drama and ethical instruction, though admittedly interpretive work must be done to gain the later).

Finally, as a result of Sisyphus’s arrogance the god’s enact an ultimate punishment. He is forced to roll a boulder almost too great for his own strength up to the top of a hill for all eternity. Each time the boulder reaches the crest of the hill it will pause only briefly and then roll to the bottom again. Sisyphus then must turn and follow walking full aware of the fate that awaits him–to roll the boulder up to the top again and again for all eternity. As written, this situation will continue without hope or recourse for change. There is no way out. (In case it wasn’t obvious already, right this minute as you read and I type this Sisyphus is down there rolling, then following the boulder even now.) Futility, then, would seem to be his punishment: the burden of a rock almost too great to push (with no hope of increased strength since this man is, after all, dead). Here Camus steps in and tells us that the lesson of such a story is twofold. First of all, Sisyphus’s situation is our own–we each push our own boulder in futility to the top of the mount again and again only to watch it pause briefly and collapse back then to the bottom, with no choice but to follow and push it up again. Secondly, we must assume Sisyphus to be happy. Yes, happy. We’ll get to that point in a minute.

(b) Ways We Resist the Truth: Complaining About the Negative; Refusing to Do the Work to Understand

The last four years I taught Camus’s Myth of Sisyphus to University students (my own boulder to push) and consistently what I found was that the first most obvious response to Camus’s ideas was a great tripitaka of resistance, dislike, and disagreement. When pushed as to why people either disagreed with or disliked Camus’s ideas about the futility of our life situation, they consistently responded that they didn’t like Camus because he was negative, and they disagreed with him because they didn’t think our lives could only be as negative as they took Camus to be.

I recognize that all of this must read as some weirdly evasive response to The Passionate Foodies challenge, or, perhaps as so evasive as to be no response at all. But, I will say to you that it is not. I really am getting somewhere with all of this, but considering these sorts of ideas takes time, and I am a god damn philosopher, after all. I will give away the punch lines, however, and tell you this–where I really am getting is to two points. One, if we’re going to understand what it means to rise to an occasion and challenge ourselves to be better, then we need to bother to understand what passionate living is really about and Camus is one clear path to understanding that. Two, it is possible to genuinely disagree with or dislike something only after you have actually done the work to understand it, and so to see how Camus will help us in our very small fervor we have to do the work of understanding Camus. Short of that, if claiming to disagree with something you haven’t actually grasped, then you are running on the fumes of arrogance, and as anyone that has driven a car long enough understands–fumes run out and the engine quits.

So, we’re going to have to get back to striving towards an understanding of Camus before we can decide if we disagree with or dislike him, but we’re also going to have to consider why the fuck he’s even relevant here. Obviously. Let me point out though that some of the reason I bring up Camus is actually because of the second blog post contributing to this so-called very small fervor on wine writing–Evil, of Evil Bottle: The Dark Side of Wine, posted “The Wine Blogger Dilemma” in which he calls out wine bloggers for their mediocre efforts at taking a stand, expressing their more genuine interests, and choosing to commit to a style of wine they do or don’t like so that they can recommend with some consistency. He also calls wine bloggers out for trying too hard to cave to big brother wine magazine by doing things like award points, and establish or use rating systems that just repeat what the magazines are already doing. The implication is: why blog if you’re just trying to be a magazine?

I take it part of the point of either Evil, or PF’s rants is to say–why should we read your crap? I want to read something interesting. If you’re mediocre and just repeating what everyone else is doing, then you’re certainly not giving me interesting. Here is where we come back around to Camus.

An Elongated Lead-In to Answering the Question Why Bother?: Camus and the Passionate Life

(a) We Feel Our Lives are Meaningless

Again, Camus emphasizes that each of us are living a life of pushing a boulder just to see it roll down again to the bottom. That is, in the grand scheme of things our lives are essentially meaningless–we’re going to die and be forgotten no matter what we do here. Any of us, even those of us that hold on to a story of afterlife or god(s) caring for what we do, have felt that reality. There are too many lyrics, or stories, or poems, or movies emphasizing that feeling for you to deny it. Even those that demand they are living in faith have to admit that your faith only gains relevance in the face of comprehending that fear and feeling of meaninglessness–in fact, it is precisely because we feel our lives are meaningless that living in faith gains any significance at all. If you had actual without doubt proven certainty of something like an afterlife or god(s) your claims of faith would be irrelevant. Faith is, by definition, conviction in the face of doubt. (Let me be clear: I am not in any way arguing against spiritual convictions here. I am instead pointing out the structural context in which they operate. In a sense you could take it i am actually giving greater credence to spiritual conviction by pointing out how very real the challenges of holding them are.)

It is in this point about the apparent grand-scheme meaninglessness of our lives that people get caught in an interpretation of Camus as negative. But when a reader does that they are failing to grasp Camus at all, and stopping before they’ve even started doing the work. It is precisely because we feel our lives as meaningless that Camus says our lives can begin to have genuine meaning. To understand this point, however, we must first consider another feeling we cannot help but have.

(b) We Feel Our Lives Are Meaningful

We cannot help but feel our lives are meaningful at exactly the same moment that we are convicted they are not. Camus points out that many people respond to only one of these feelings and cave to nihilism–a view that nothing they do matters–or to zealotry–the view that everything they do matters for a very particular reason external to themselves. Camus brings this point up to demand that both approaches are disingenuous. They are a kind of lie against the reality of human experience. Instead, the only truth we can hold with actual certainty is that we experience both feelings mentioned as true–we really do feel that our lives do not matter in the big scheme of things, we really will be forgotten no matter what we might happen to accomplish in our lives; and we can’t help but care how any little thing we decide to do happens to go too.

If you don’t believe me on the first point about meaninglessness, see the statements I’ve already made about faith all over again and spend some more time thinking on them.

If you don’t believe me on the last point that you can’t help but care about how things you participate in go, then consider almost any straightforward, everyday moment where you get frustrated that you’re running late, that traffic is backed up, that you might not find that dinner ingredient you are looking for, etc. Then consider how often we respond to larger moments too. We’re irritated about the current people available to vote for, for political office; we are upset our sports team lost the game (even if just a little bit); we worry if we’ve made the right decision about taking a job, leaving a job, asking for a raise, etc. We can’t help but invest in activities we care about, and we do it all the time.

(c) Our Lives Feel Both Meaningful and Meaningless

Here is the important part though–Camus demands, again, that the only thing that we can hold onto as true is that both feelings are part of human experience (we feel both as humans), and the two feelings are simply irreconcilable. There is no honest way to reduce one of the feelings to the other, or to negate either. As long as we are living a human life we will experience both as true, and live in the tension of them pulling against each other. To live a human life is to live a life defined by a conflict of meaning. We experience affects like despair, or even neuroses over whether we’ve done a good job, precisely at the crux of where our feelings of meaninglessness and meaningfulness intersect. That is, it is because of the conflict of these that we struggle for how we will judge our own actions. It is the tension of the two that informs so much of how we experience our own lives.

More detail on that point will have to wait for another occasion. This is supposed to be a post about wine, after all. Dear Jesus, let’s get on with it.

Camus shows us that the paradox I just described is actually an incredible blessing, and that if you truly understand the import of the Camusian paradox then upon reflection of the burden of the boulder you have to recognize that Sisyphus is happy. Here’s how.

(d) Sisyphus is Happy

The burden of the boulder belongs to Sisyphus alone. And, in fact, without them realizing it, Sisyphus tricked the gods again. They gave him a gift they didn’t know he was getting. In the moments that Sisyphus is pushing the boulder the situation demands almost the entirety of his strength. The rock is so heavy (I like to call it the mo-fo boulder it is so big) that all of what Sisyphus is must go into pushing it–that is, it is almost beyond the limits of his strength to move that rock. Any of us that have pursued activities that hard know when you are doing something almost beyond your limits you don’t have time to reflect thoroughly on what you are doing, you just have to do it. So, it really is the case that almost all of what Sisyphus is must be directed at pushing that rock–it takes almost the entirety of his strength, and certainly all of his concentration. When he is pushing the rock, he knows nothing. He is not reflecting on his situation at all. That is, he has no time to be self-conscious about what he is doing because he is too busy doing it. All he is is pushing the rock. So, strangely enough (and here is the first half of the gods’ gift) in the very moment that looks to us as Sisyphus’s burden–pushing the mo-fo rock–he is actually receiving a break from his (after) life circumstance. He is too completely involved in what he is doing to be perturbed by it.

Here’s the second half of the gift–when the rock pauses and rolls back down again, Sisyphus cannot push anymore. The rock is, in a sense, no longer his. He has given it away to its fate of cascading to the base of the climb. It is in this portion of the challenge that Sisyphus receives his other rest. He no longer has a burden. Here he can choose not what he has to do (he will walk down the incline after all), but how he wants to be. It is only here that he is fully conscious, and it is in that moment of having completed his task, and so then given it away to follow its own fate, that Sisyphus is fully awake in his own existence. He faces his fate with certainty–he will push the boulder again–while dwelling in the full aftermath of his own accomplishment. He did successfully push the boulder almost too great for his strength. And now he gets to choose how he wants to experience his fate, and thus choose what it means to him. According to Camus, because we know Sisyphus is fully invested in and aware with clarity of his task of life with the boulder, both up and back down the hill, we must assume him to be happy. It is that combination of full investment and awareness that offers the possibility for a happy life. And it is this combination that is the ground of the passionate life as well.

The Answer to The Question Why Bother?: What It Means to Live the Passionate Life, aka., The Same Answer as What It Means to Challenge Ourselves to Do Better in Wine Blogging

Camus illustrates how a passionate life is one we recognize as fully our own. It is only ourselves that pushes the rock, and only ourselves that releases it to the world to roll where it will after we have brought it to its fruition at the top. If we’re looking too heavily to standards outside ourselves to imitate (like wine magazines), and then blaming anyone but ourselves for the results of mediocrity-by-imitation instead of innovation, we’re failing to recognize our own responsibility for our work. Or, if we’re writing complaining rants against writing that bores us without seeing that our boredom is our own problem–let’s look to what keeps us interested–on the one hand; or, on the other, without offering any footholds or handholds that help garner greater knowledge for others, or possible standards to strive for, then we’re failing to help produce the world we claim we want to live in. We’re just contributing to the drowning. This responsibility for our own lives, and creating the lives we want to live, is true whether our rock is getting the kids up every day for school, or, teaching Camus again for a new round of college students (I gave this college students rock away, though apparently without giving the Camus rock away), or, if it is in choosing to continuously strive to write better wine blog posts. It is only us that pushes the responsibility of that choice, and once the task has reached its fruition we must give it away to find its own fate. Short of that we are failing to recognize both the way in which we generate the profound meaning of our own individual lives, and the limited control we have on the effect of that generative activity.

It turns out when PF and Evil released their very small fervor at the top of the hill they didn’t get to determine where it would afterwards roll. One place it rolled was here–a very long post dedicated absolutely to thinking about what it means to challenge ourselves to write better about wine, but that I am sure for some looks to be mostly about some damned French philosopher.

For the Passionate Foodie, and The Evil Bottle, A Return Challenge

To PF and Evil, this is my challenge back–I absolutely want to read better wine writing, and I want to read it too from both of you. If you’re to take passionate living vis-a-vis Camus seriously here is what that would mean–writing that is almost more than the strength of your ability to produce–be it in expressing wine knowledge, or stylistic expression, or, in regards to pushing yourself harder to understand wines your tastes might not recognize and relish at first smell-and-sip; or, even better, taking up all three. A post in which you try to do something as challenging as you have ever done, every time you sit down to write. Writing almost more than your capacity to produce, but, importantly, not actually more. Just writing so challenging that every time you release it to the world you have to walk back towards the next post happy.

***

The Acknowledgement

Something I appreciate about The Passionate Foodie and The Evil Bottle is this–both put interesting challenges to themselves in their blog writing and their approach to wine recently.

The Passionate Foodie wrote his post mentioned above as a recap or book-end to the post he wrote a year ago as an original rant+challenge at the start of 2011 for wine writers to “change and improve” their wine blog writing. In his recent post he states that he believes he met his own challenge in the past year by taking more risks, covering more unusual wines, and focusing more on features than on individual reviews. PF’s blog is well established, and his writing done for other publications as well. It’s certainly respectable (p.s. he also writes about cheeeeeessseee. who doesn’t want to read about good cheese so that they can then eat cheeeeeesssseee?). Especially because at the same time he sends out a call to attention for wine bloggers, he also intends to put the challenge to himself to improve further again with this new year of 2012.

Evil Bottle is taking up a more specific challenge this year. On his first post with the new calendar, Evil states he is choosing to expand and deepen his knowledge of American wine. His interests and experience have in the past revolved more thoroughly around European wine, specifically French, and as he said, he intends this year to prove his views of American wine wrong. As he puts it, he is trying to face his own critique of boring wine blogs by generating more engaging material.

The thing about any resolution is that they have to be followed through on before they mean anything. I look forward to the developments from both PF and Evil (as well as many others) in this new year, and to reading along to see how they strive to meet their own challenges.

Cheers!

***

Friday into next week the posts here will be a series of features investigating varietals and their range as shown through differing climate and growing region. You’ve seen me do this work before, but it’ll happen this time in groupings rather than individual reviews, as you’ve seen happening recently. As usual, these considerations of grape variety will culminate in a (color) characteristics card.

I hope you enjoy the rest of your week of om-nom-nom!

(p.s. I promise, in the midst of the reviews these next few weeks, Camus won’t make a peep.)

Copyright 2011 all rights reserved. When sharing or forwarding, please attribute to WakawakaWineReviews.com

The Charbono-Bonarda Connection with a Bit of Mucking Around, plus a Charbono, and a Bonarda Wine Review

One of my great joys is getting to taste, and try, and drink unusual, rare, or wonderful things.

I took a wine class a few years ago with my two sisters, and the older man sitting across from us asked, “so, why are you all here taking this class?” One of my sisters responded, “oh! I love drinking wine.”

He smiled and turned to hear my response and I said, “I’m an existentialist.”

My sister laughed and told him, “she really is! She’s a philosopher for a living!”

That is, investment in the experience of things is fundamental. From this perspective, I am fascinated by unusual, rare, and wonderful things.

With this in mind, today’s post looks to just such a grape variety–a grape uncommonly grown, with a contested history, and surprising mix of characteristics. I believe that when confronted with such varieties the appreciation for its peculiar position in the world adds layers to the experience of its flavor, bouquet, texture, and color.

To properly appreciate the two varietal wine reviews that follow, we begin first with a sort of wine story.

Here it is:

A Grape’s Story Titled:

What the Hell is This Grape Anyway?

aka., The Grape of Great Mystery!

aka., OH MY GOD IT IS CHARBONO! what? BONARDA! what? OH JUST READ THIS COMIC WHY DON’T YOU? (not that the comic will settle ALL of the mystery)

click on comic to enlarge

So, it turns out not everyone agrees that Bonarda is actually Charbono, or, rather Corbeau (there is ANOTHER grape variety also called “Charbono” that originates NOT in France, but in Italy, and is definitely not Corbeau, as if we needed more complications). But, the evidence we have so far seems to best support the idea that Charbono of California IS the same grape variety as Bonarda from Argentina. Interestingly, however, Carole Meredith, who performed the genetic testing that linked California charbono to corbeau believes that what is called bonarda in Argentina is not actually one cohesive grape variety, and thus that only some of Argentina’s bonarda is the same varietal as charbono. Such a claim is of course theoretically possible considering how commonly plantings around the world have been mislabeled, and then their accurate history forgotten. Both California charbono, and Argentinian bonarda have gone through re-namings before.

More conclusive testing will have to be done to know for certain, and even then I’m sure disagreement will continue. (c.f. The common determination that Shiraz originates from Persia, even with genetic testing telling us it comes originally from France. That is, genetic testing is not always enough to convince everyone, and for god sake, maybe sometimes it shouldn’t be.)

To answer any questions about why the grape no longer shows any significance in France, its apparent place of origin–corbeau was brought from the Alps region of Sovoie to the Calistoga region of California in the 1880’s. But, shortly after that the phylloxera outbreak hit Europe, and the grape was essentially wiped out. Prior to the outbreak the variety traveled to South America as well.

ANYWAY, the point of all this is that the history of Charbono-Bonarda reads much like a historical fiction novel focused on ideas of self-discovery where the protagonist suffers a memory loss in early adolescence due to having been separated from his or her parents in the midst of a significant traumatic event, and ended up being taken up by unrelated care takers that then journeyed the protagonist to various far reaches of the world. In other words, dramatic, and very exciting, with hints of war, starvation, and the threat of possible annihilation.

Okay, with all that absurdity in mind, let’s turn to the wine reviews.

Robert Foley 2009 Charbono

The Robert Foley Charbono shows incredibly ripe color–an inky purple reaching out to ruby edges. The wine can’t be seen through. It also shows good strong viscosity with legs dancing over the side of the glass in faint color.

The charbono is full of bright red fruit showing faint hints of smoke, and touches of smoked meat as well. The mouth is dominated by cranberry, and a mix of both tart, and black cherry, with a little pomegranate. The remarkable thing about this wine though is how incredibly bright the tang shows while the tannins remain soft-medium in comparison. The acids here clearly win. It’s unusual to have such a bright red fruit wine with dominating acids. Here they keep the fruit tasting fresh, and your mouth watering, thus avoiding any worries of disparaging remarks like “fruit bomb.” The oak influence on this Robert Foley is very light. It adds a layer of richness, without being imposing–this charbono doesn’t seem to want much oak.

I’m curious to taste a vertical of this wine at some point. I’d like to see how the flavors change from vintage to vintage, and also how this wine develops with age.

Colonia las Liebres 2009 Bonarda, from Altos las Hormigas

Again we find a very ripe wine with inky purple reaching out to ruby rim, and medium high viscosity–the dancers legs showing hints of color.

The nose of this Bonarda from Altos las Hormigas’s Colonia las Liebres project offers a lot of red fruit, with touches of black fruit, and light scents of leather. There are even whispers of red clay earth (though this hint of earth fades as the wine rests in glass). The mouth though shows only very light touches of leather in comparison, with the wonderfully fresh, young red fruit tang dominating. In the bonarda we get cranberry again, but with a stronger sense of other berries as well–raspberry, and some blackberry too.

Like the Robert Foley, the acidity is remarkably high, but with the red fruit (with some hints of black fruit) flavors proves pleasing, keeping your mouth clear, and watering with a bright tang.

The Colonia las Liebres is made completely unoaked, so the fruit remains very fresh, and even fleshy.

The 2010 vintage has recently been released–I look forward to trying it!

***

Side by Side–Which One Wins?

Getting to taste these two wines side by side I can’t imagine believing anything except that they are of the same grape variety. The quality on both these wines is good. I recommend either for sheer drinking interest combined with pleasure.

They’re unusual wines, as I’ve said–it isn’t common to find a red with such high acidity, while the tannins remain moderate and smooth. Let me be clear–on whites high acid levels are often described as ‘enamel stripping.’ You get none of that effect here. Your mouth stays clear, bright, and watering from these acids, but they are not so stark to be unpleasant. The red fruit flavors keep you from suffering in that sense. Still, with these structural combinations some people won’t be interested. If what you want is a more tannin driven red, you won’t find it here. The tannins in charbono or bonarda are clearly subservient to the acidity.

The truth is both of these wines are well worth buying. However, if put side by side I’d have to point out the unbelievable value on the Bonarda. The quality of these two is comparable but the price on the bonarda ranges from under $10 to $13 USD. Let me just say, what?! Again, the Robert Foley is also recommended here. If you want a little more layering to the flavors from the light oak influence on the wine, it is the choice between the two. But, it prices out between $30 and $35 USD, which at times can be harder to pull out of your pocket.

I recommend opening one of these bottles to first taste on its own for the experience of it, and then getting someone else to enjoy it with you, and finally pairing it with food. The acidity here means this is going to be a very food friendly wine.

Which ever you choose– Enjoy!

***

p.s. For those of you wishing for this post to come back around to the damned wine class with my sisters I attended several years ago, here’s more of the story.

Whoever designed a wine class to be combined with a cooking class, and the wine to consist of at least five full glasses paired with a meal, with “the meal” consisting ENTIRELY of salad (and only leaves, since it was only Caesar Salad)–well, such a person was clearly (a) tricky, (b) a touch conniving, and (c) a heterosexual man expecting the class to draw in women. Or, in this case actually two heterosexual men, both of whom knew 4/5 of the participants that signed up were women.

The quick version here is that no matter how many croutons we tried to put in that damned salad bowl to help the situation, we all ended up drunk anyway. Somehow our accidental drunkenness supported a sort of bonding experience for us though, and only partially because we were forced to just sit in place until our cross-eyed state cleared up as we washed it away with water. To put it another way, after an experience like that EVERYONE was either an existentialist, or praying.

Here’s two pics for all of you.

Three sisters

Three sisters ONLY PART WAY THROUGH the wine-salad conundrum

(The man in the pic is the designer of the wine-salad class. You can SEE he’s tricky, can’t you? He’s also a dear-hearted, hilarious man, and an excellent chef at a fantastic restaurant. All around a good deal.)

(By the way, anyone that wants to hassle me about my hair in these pics, let me just say-we are in ALASKA for god’s sake, where the outside is too gorgeous, and the air too windy for me to frickin’ worry about that awful 80’s side puff going on here. aka., leave me alone about it. kiss! kiss! Amen.)

(one final pic to prove the gorgeous part of the gorgeous plus windy claim.)

The view just outside the classroom

Cheers!

Copyright 2011 all rights reserved. When sharing or forwarding, please attribute to WakawakaWineReviews.com